FINDING A PROSPECT

What kind of dog makes a satisfactory police dog? How does one obtain a candidate dog for police training? You need more than answers to these questions. You need qualifications for those answers, some of which will be immediately forthcoming. Other qualifications will materialize as you progress with your training program. On the strength of this promise, I am going to ask you to follow my advice without reservation or modification in the task of procuring the best prospects.

Your questions will concern the dog's physical and temperamental qualities. Because it is the more easily accomplished of the two tasks, we will eliminate the physically unsuitable before screening out the dogs who lack the proper temperament.

A physical description of a dog best begins with reference to his breed.

Although there are many breeds capable of doing police work, some of the breeds are so few in numbers as to be generally unavailable for testing.

However, with the possibility that one or more of them can be found in your locality, I'll mention them along with the more common breeds.

Airedale Terrier

Belgian Sheepdog

Bouvier des Flandres

Boxer

Briard

Doberman Pinscher

German Shepherd

Giant Schnauzer

Other breeds have been used as specialists, such as the Bull Terrier and Staffordshire Terrier, whose heritage of superior courage and fighting ability has qualified them for police work where physical combat was known to be unavoidable. Pages 40 through 50 give brief descriptions of the above breeds.

Most officers and law forces would benefit more by concentrating on the general purpose police dog until such time as experience in training and handling, together with a definite need, warrants the employment of one of the "specialists."

Your search for dogs on the suitable list can be made thoroughly and rapidly if you follow a systematic procedure. Veterinarians, pet supply stores, commercial kennels, and animal regulation departments can give you the names of the breeders of purebred dogs in your area who, though they might not have the breeds you seek, can give you prospective leads.

The American Kennel Club, 51 Madison Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10010, can

supply you with the names and addresses of breeders near you. Ads in newspapers, dog magazines, and sporting magazines can furnish others.

When you talk to breeders, remember you're asking for help, so don't irritate them by calling their purebred dogs "thoroughbreds." Soon the references and bits of information which these contacts provide will lead you to other breeders who may be active in the suitable breeds and who, if they have no prospects to show you, may know of a grown male that may be available as a candidate.

It is true that "handsome is as handsome does," but it is also true that one factor of a police dog's effectiveness is the impression he makes. A seedy looking dog does not make an authoritative impression on the suspect he confronts, nor on the city officials who appropriate the money for his installation and maintenance. In view of this fact, it might be well for you to equip yourself with a book listing the breed standards of perfection for each of the breeds you examine. Such books are obtainable in all libraries and in most good book stores and pet shops. The standard will provide a convenient checklist for calling

attention to factors you might otherwise overlook. Though some parts of a breed's standard are irrelevant to a dog's functional capacity, it

does emphasize some points that are fundamental to his physical ability.

5. SCREENING

Unless you have had a lot of experience with dogs, you will find it useful to have someone with a general knowledge of the subject to accompany you on your survey. It would not be feasible to pay for the opinion of a veterinarian or professional dog man until you have located a dog that is worth their consideration.

,Most of the dogs to which your chain of referrals leads will be washed out by the tests you'll give them. Don't let this discourage you.

Nearly everyone who looks for dogs for police work has to use this

"prospecting" method. In other fields where dogs are employed, breeders are engaged in producing dogs for specific purposes, but there has not been enough use of police dogs to interest competent and dedicated breeders in the task of producing them. However, the essential qualities for police work are scattered through each of the breeds I've mentioned, and sometimes fortune favors an individual dog with all the requirements.

Before taking the time to look at a dog, ask whether he meets the age and sex requirements. While there have been some excellent female Police dogs, a bitch can be lost to service during the time she is in season, and generally, if spayed, her aggressiveness and physical condition seem somewhat affected. So it is better to devote your time to finding a male. In most cases, a dog of less than a year could not reasonably be subjected to the testing and training for police work.

Unless he is of exceptional quality, or has basic obedience training, a dog older than three years has the disadvantage of a shorter career. If

the owner cannot tell you his dog's age, go and look at him for signs which may enable you to estimate it.

When you go to a home or kennel to check a prospect, ask someone who is familiar with the dog to take him, on leash, into an area where there is room and good footing. You can better view the dog standing and moving if he can be maneuvered as you request. Also, some structural

weaknesses are more apparent when a dog is walked or trotted on leash than when a gallop blurs the pattern of his action. Point by point, check the items on the following list.

Size. Any candidate you consider should meet the minimum standards of 23 inches at the shoulder and a weight of 65 pounds, or the maximum of roughly 28 inches at the shoulder and a weight of no more than 100 pounds. Probably the average dog you consider will stand close to 27 inches and weigh about 80 pounds. The small advantage gained by height and weight above this average will be offset by a decrease in speed and agility and inconvenience in transporting the dog in a car.

General Conformation. If there is anything freakish about the structure of a dog that makes him move in a clumsy or poorly balanced way, he won't be able to do the job. Ideally, a police dog should be able to travel the roughest ground and scale six-foot fences easily. If your candidate obviously couldn't qualify, rule him out.

Head. For effect as well as combat, big, sound, canine teeth, often dramatized as "fangs," are valuable. Examine them to see that they

haven't been broken or worn down. A dog's usefulness will not be impaired by one broken canine tooth, but if more than that are in bad shape, eliminate him for physical reasons, and for other reasons which will be dealt with a bit later. If you are in doubt about the dog's age, check the incisors, the small teeth spaced in between the canines.

If they are sharp, the dog is probably not more than two years old. If the edges are well worn, the dog is perhaps too old to warrant further interest.

The biting power of a dog seems to be as much a matter of overall muscle tone as it is structure. Therefore, if he's strong and vigorous he'll

have enough "bite," even though he may lack the desirable deep underjaw, which by reason of the added leverage it affords does give some

mechanical advantage.

While checking the dog's head, give consideration to his eyes for signs of visual defects. Though you are not prepared to test his hearing for sensitivity and orientation to sound, you can prove that he's not deaf by watching his reactions to a few soft, strange noises.

Legs and Feet. Strong, well angulated legs and firm, resilient feet are very desirable in all working dogs; however, evaluation should be made on the dog's performance, not on his appearance when standing. Persist until you have seen him move at all speeds: walk, trot, and hard-run off leash with quick changes of direction. A slow walk up a long stairway will often reveal a weakness that goes unnoticed when the dog is moving on the ground. Later, if your initial tests find the dog worthy of the

expense, an examination by a veterinarian Will protect you against unobserved deficiencies.

When the combination of you, your helper, the breed standard, and my suggestions has brought you to the conclusion that the dog qualifies physically, we'll begin the interesting task of testing his temperament.

6. TESTING

You can appraise a dog's qualifications for work more easily if you keep in mind the difference between disposition and temperament, two words that are often misused. Think of disposition as the attitude a dog

intentionally expresses toward humans and other living things in situations where he should be compatible. It would refer to his being

"sweet" or "grouchy," reliable or unreliable. Temperament is the complex of factors of instinct, emotion, and intelligence that

determines a dog's use of the opportunities his environment affords.

Certainly disposition is one factor of temperament, but it is only one of a great many factors. A few others are courage, hunting instinct, alertness, and emotional stability. You'll see the need for these and many more as the selection and training of your police dog progresses.

For further emphasis on the importance of considering all factors of a dog's temperament, rather than merely that of disposition, let's look at a couple of examples.

I recall a coon hound who was well known for two things: his treme ndous cold-trailing ability, and his dislike of nearly all humans. He had the intensity, ability, and persistence to work out a track that left other dogs puttering in a senseless pattern. He was as honest as daylight.

When his chop changed to a bawl, you knew the track was straightening out, and when the perfect meter of his tree-bark boomed through the night, you ran towards it. However, unlike most of his breed, he was ready to snap at a stranger who offered a friendly pat. His owner didn't pay much attention to the fault. He counted his coonskins and knew that even though his hound had a bad disposition he still scored pretty high in temperament.

One beagle I recall was quite unlike the coon hound. He had a warm, captivating regard for all humans, and a complete disinterest in the scent of game. I used every trick in a hound man's book to start him, but with no success. He had a wonderful disposition, but a poor temperament.

Often commercial kennels are called by the owner of a dog that has

"turned vicious" and which the owner says would probably make a good police dog. How absurd. Though good disposition is but one factor of temperament, it is one of the essential factors in the case of a police dog-one of the many qualities you should look for in the dogs you check.

Actually, you began to learn things about the dog's temperament when you were checking his physical qualifications. If, when the dog was led out for your inspection, he hung back on the leash as though more concerned

with avoiding you than staying with his master, you can be sure he would be even more cowardly away from his home. Forget him. If he had to be restrained from attacking you for no other reason than that you were available, and in other ways seemed irrational, try to find out

something of his history. If he has a record of indiscriminate biting, don't gamble on him. On the other hand, if his record was not bad, and it seemed as though his handler was an ineffective person, it might be that he could be reclaimed by a proper obedience program and would be worth testing on strange ground. Some dogs that have been nagged into neurosis by ineffectual owners are not basically vicious and respond quickly to positive handling. it Equally as useless for your purpose as the truly "mean" dog is the shy-sharp" individual. He shows the fangs of a tiger and the heart of a mouse. True, he may be quite alert and, when restrained by a leash, may make a blustering stand; but

unrestrained, his character may cause him to hide behind his master or run away. If the situation in which you view him is such that you are unable to get a demonstration of his character, and you feel that he might be worth another look, there will be a way to test his mettle when you try him away from 'home.

Possibly it appears that the dog you go to see is completely unaware of your presence. Don't rule him out yet. His environment may be so constantly filled with the intrusion of children and neighbors that his awareness of strangers has been dulled. At least he doesn't fear your presence. He's well worth checking in another situation.

If the dog comes into the area, alerts on you, and then turns to other

interests immediately, don't let his short attention discourage you.

He's shown enough to make him worth another look.

If he comes into your presence alertly and boldly, approaches you with a dignified reserve, and after accepting you continues to be aware of your movements, you may have an outstanding prospect for further testing.

If the dog greets you as though you are an old playmate who has come to romp with him, don't write him off as hopeless. The fact that he isn't afraid of you means he's worth testing in another situation.

You can see that the first check on temperament, just a by-product of the physical evaluation, is treated rather casually. It is no more than an opportunity to eliminate the obviously unsuitable. Don't feel uneasy, thinking that you may be placing trust in a counterfeit. The proper tests for the essentials of temperament will not be casual-don't you be casual in applying them. It is necessary that you follow the exact procedures as they are given for making these tests. Omissions and shortcuts can only bring you expensive embarrassment.

For the first formal test, you'll need a quiet place where you can control what the dog will hear and see. Good examples would be a city yard in which equipment is maintained or industrial yards at times when the employees are not present. A rock and gravel company generally provides a good situation during its quiet hours.

Next, arrange for a man to help you who can follow directions capably,

who is well coordinated, and is not known to the dog. In the process of testing, you should be an observer, never a participant. A raincoat and any kind of a hat with a brim will give your helper the appearance of a real "heavy." He should have a double-action revolver, or blank gun of any caliber, for shooting blanks; a single shot will not provide the rapid fire needed. If you have to buy a gun and live in a state with no gun restrictions, you may find a used, practical revolver a better choice than a regular blank gun. Have the cylinder of your gun fully loaded when you give it to the heavy.

You will need the help of the dog's owner, or someone the dog knows equally well, to act as handler. See that he's equipped with a strong collar, preferably of the mettle-training kind, and a heavy leather training leash six feet long.

Take time to plan your setup carefully. Provide a shed or building with a peephole or window near the door which your heavy will work

This test provides the moment of truth in selecting a dog for police work.

out of, so that he can time his assault to the dog's approach without revealing his own position.

To make certain that the dog doesn't see the heavy before the test, and to prevent any conversation between the heavy and handler, arrange for the handler to bring his dog to the area and meet you after the heavy is

hidden. Explain exactly how he should proceed, with the dog held on the full length of leash, on a course that will take him by the building

about ten feet from the door that the heavy will use. So that the surprise will be as great to himself as to his dog, tell him nothing of what is to happen, except to start on a casual walk when he hears your signal and to hang on to the end of the leash no matter what happens.

Your own place of concealment, from where you will watch the action, should be located so that the dog won't be distracted by your airborne scent and thus confused in his reaction to the thug. Use a whistle signal to alert the heavy and start the handler on his walk. There

should be no further communication between any of you until the test is finished and the dog is taken back to his car. Watch intently as the dog approaches the shed, because much of importance can happen in an instant. When the handler and dog reach a point about ten feet from the building, the heavy should jump out only a step from cover, let out a war whoop as he fires two shots into the air, and then duck back into concealment and slam the door. The handler should give his dog a bit of praise and take him back to his car. There should be no more and no less threat than I've outlined. You'll soon see the necessity for this rule.

Here is a practical way of grading your dog on the test. If he ignored the "thug" who was attacking his master, rule him out. He would be hopelessly insensitive to less pronounced situations. If he flung himself back away from the thug, showing that his one desire was to break the leash and run away, write him off as a bad risk. If he backed

up, as though startled or confused, but stood still when the leash tightened, he's worth trying a bit further. If he didn't back up, but stood his ground defensively, if not aggressively, he is a good

prospect. If he responded playfully, as though eager for a game, he's

prospect. If he responded playfully, as though eager for a game, he's