Heart of the Mediterranean
13greets all those who visit Regardless of the direction from which it is
approached, whether via the highway leading from the hinterland, along the Adriatic Tourist Route from the coast, or by plane or boat, the first feature to be noticed, right by the city centre, is green Mount Marjan (4). This wonderful embellishment of the city, its precious “green lungs”, has been celebrated in numerous songs. When the citizens of Split wish to flee the flurry of urban life, they escape to the green oasis of Marjan, walking, jogging along its paths (3), enjoying the vistas of their beloved city, or simply resting on the shores edged by the greenery of the moun- tain’s foothills (1).
Moving southwards down the coast from Split, we soon come upon its most beautiful and best liked tourist destination, the Makarska Riviera (6). Natural pebble beaches, bordered on one side by crystal clear blue seas and on the other by lush vegetation (2) at the foot of the craggy heights of Mount Biokovo, attract countless tourists. This imposing mountain is by far the greatest sight of the Central Dalmatian coastline, and its only nature park. There are few places in the Mediterranean where peaks of over 1,500 metres in height come so close to the sea and where mountains rise so steeply and so high as they do here. Since the world of nature on Biokovo has been preserved in its virginal state, it is the belief of many that Biokovo should in fact be declared Croatia’s ninth national park.
However, it is the forbidding and inhospitable peaks of Biokovo (5) that bestow upon the coast an ever so welcome freshness during the heat of summer, as well as proffering a whole range of nature’s gifts to its true lov- ers. Apart from fresh air and the atmosphere of unsullied nature, Biokovo has beautiful hiking and cycling trails (9 & 13), pleasant resting places (12) and interesting historical remains dating from the times when many shepherds (11) roamed this difficult terrain. Today, the nature park, in- cluding its highest peak, the 1,758 metre high Sveti Jure, can be reached by road, either from the shores of the Makarska Riviera or from Dalm- atinska Zagora’s hinterland.
With a little luck, visitors to Biokovo can catch a sight of chamois (7), the trade mark of this mighty mountain, as well as other protected ani- mal species (10). All along the routes, strange karstic forms (17), deep karstic sinkholes (19) and a number of other natural phenomena charac- teristic of a karst area are to be seen. However, the most alluring aspect for those who come to Biokovo is the breathtaking views (8 & 15) of
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22 25 26 27 28 29 24 23 the Makarska Riviera, with its lovely beaches and picturesque villages (18). Also, from Biokovo it is possible to
see all the large islands of Central Dalmatia, particularly Brač and Hvar (14 & 20). The vistas extend into the hinterland of rugged, forested Dalmatinska Zagora (16).
Should we opt instead to move inland in search of more of nature’s gifts, there are many pleasant surprises awaiting us. One of the most beautiful prizes for diligent seekers of beauty is the magnificent Peručko jezero (Peruča Lake) at the foot of the peaks of Dinara (21). This man made lake, so vitally important for the supply of water to the insatiably thirsty karstic areas of Dalmatia and its fertile fields (27), is fed by the waters of the Cetina, Central Dalmatia’s main river. The unspoiled source of this river attracts people with the freshness and verdacity of its clear waters (24). Also attractive are its banks (29) and buildings in the immediate vicinity, such as the church in the village of Cetina (28). The downstream course of the river abounds with rapids, making it extremely popular with the rafting fraternity (23).
However, by far the most striking natural phenomena of the Dalmatian hinterland are the LAKES of IMOTSKI. Set amid harsh karst, as if drilled by some gigantic boring machine, several huge water-filled holes reach deep into the bowels of the earth. The most beautiful of these is Modro jezero (Blue Lake) (22 &25), which is located virtually in the town of Imotski. The lake, which is 500 metres wide and more than 200 metres deep, is named after its unique blue colour and is a favourite bathing site for the people of Imotski.
More unusual is Crveno jezero (Red Lake) (26), itself named after the surrounding red rock. It is more than 200 metres from the edge of the hole down to the surface of the lake, and a further 300 metres to the bottom of the lake, making it the deepest lake in Croatia.
In the Split region of Dalmatia, some people are more attracted to the wildernesses of Biokovo and Dalmatinska Zagora, others prefer the beaches of the Makarska Riviera, but most people opt for the islands. Lined along the front of the shores of Central Dalmatia, going south, are several smaller and larger islands, each of them a story
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unto itself, stories of the beauty of nature and the work of man over thousands of years. All the islands are well connected to Split by ferry and shipping lines, which is one of the reasons why Split is one of the busiest passenger ports in the Mediter- ranean.
Brač, the largest of the Dalmatian islands, is widely known for its lovely beaches and the harmony of the numerous bell towers in its towns and villages. Hvar, second in size, is renowned for its lush vegetation, the intoxicating fragrance of lavender and the exquisite charm of its towns and vilages, in particular the towns of Starigrad and Hvar. The outlying sentinel of the centre of the Adriatic, the island of Vis, is no less beautiful with its preserved old way of life and the wealth of fish found in its waters. There is also Šolta, which is the favourite summer resort for the citizens of Split, Čiovo, close to the historical city of Trogir, and a string of smaller islands, each of which is a world in its own.
The best known holiday destination on the island of BRAČ is Bol, located at the foot of the highest peak of all the Adriatic islands: the 780 metre high Vidova gora (35). This mountain is one of the favourite places for paragliders, as well as pos- sessing one of the finest viewpoints (30) from where Zlatni rat, the most beautiful beach along our shores, can be seen as if it were in the palm of one’s hand. The beach is surrounded by the lush greenery of evergreen Mediterranean woods (34) and is protected as an outstanding landscape. The special feature of this peninsula shaped beach, composed of fine, rounded, snow white pebbles, is that it tends to shift depending on the direction of the winds and the waves. Around Bol there are other beautiful beaches, while in the island’s mountainous area is Pustinja Blaca (33), renowned for its unique museum collection and its mystic, contemplative atmosphere.
41 42 45 46 48 47 South of Brač lies HVAR, the island which the American magazine
Traveller declared as one of the ten most beautiful islands in the world, alongside Bora Bora, Bali, Mykonos and Capri.
The unique feature of this hilly island with many wonderful natural beaches (38) is the green of its woods and the colours and fragrances of its meadows (32) covered with a variety of medicinal plants, the best known being lavender, the symbol of the island (31). Hvar has also succeeded in preserving some very special olive trees (39) and cypresses (36) which grow next to the Franciscan monastery in the town of Hvar. In addition to Hvar, there are many other picturesque places, such as Stari Grad, Jelsa and Vrboska, which is nestled in a deep bay (37).
More distant yet from Hvar, virtually in the open sea, lies the won- derful island of VIS, with its adjoining small islands, right in the middle of the Adriatic. In the two main towns, Vis (40) and Komiža (41), it is hard to decide what is more special and more beautiful; whether it is the ancient architecture and the natural beaches front- ing them (48), or indeed the underwater world around them (43). Those who opt to spend a little more time travelling and visiting this distant island will surely be captivated by the picturesque vil- lages in the interior, from where views of the open seas are breath- taking (47).
Dotted around Vis are several smaller islands, among them Biševo, with its magnificent Modra spilja (Blue Cave) (42) particularly worthy of attention, famous for the enchanting play of light and colour in its interior and, according to many, even more captivating than the similar but better known cave on the island of Capri, near Naples. Located farthest out in the open sea are the lonely small islands of Sveti An- drija, Jabuka, Brusnik and Palagruža.
The most striking and somewhat forbidding in shape is Jabuka (45). Its dark, volcanic iron ore rocks once terrified the mariners of old because of the way in which they interfered with their compasses, giving rise to dark stories of the seas hereabouts. The nearby small island of Brusnik (46), which provides a habitat for endemic fauna, reptiles in particular, also bears witness to the volcanic activities of long ago. Most distant of all, right in the middle of the Adriatic, lonely and defiant, rises a group of tiny islands and crags, Palagruža, dominated by a 91 metre high lighthouse, skilfully blended into the savage relief (44).
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