hand method
The hand method of inserting a lining is really a modified hand method. In classic tailoring, you sew the lining unit and sleeves into the jacket by hand. In the modified hand version, you sew all the lining sections together by machine, including setting in the sleeves and connecting the lining unit to the facings, then you do the finishing steps by hand.
Hand-sewn finishes are
synonymous with fine tailoring and custom-made clothing. The advantage of sewing the
finishing steps by hand is that you have better control of the fabric and you can allow for minor sewing imperfections by adjusting the lining. Hand finishing is also an advantage when connecting the lining to velvets and other napped fabrics that tend to slide easily.
Begin inserting the lining by staystitching Yz in. along the lining hem. Press the hem back along the staystitching. The staystitching serves as a guide for pressing back the hem allowance and cuts down on stretching when you press.
Pin the lining unit to the jacket facings. Place the pins perpen
dicular to the seam with the
heads hanging off the edges so you can pull the pins out from either side. When pinning, first match the center back, then the shoulder seams, then the lower front edges. It will be easier to pin the back neck curve if you first clip the lining every Yz in.
between the shoulder seams.
Pin the front edges from the bottom up to force the ease to the upper off-grain section of the front facings. If you are using a soft lining fabric, this section may appear to have too much ease but it doesn't. The easiest way to pin this area is by placing the seam flat on a table with the lining underneath the facing.
This way the soft lining does not bow away and you will be able to align the edges.
Stitching next to the stay
stitching, sew the back neck section between the shoulder
Although the lining fabric may appear to have too much ease when you are pinning it to the front facing, you will be able to align the edges if you pin the pieces flat on a table with the lining placed underneath the front facing.
Jacket L i n ings 33
Using a press cloth to protect the fabric, press the lining into position with the seam allowances toward the lining.
To make a jump hem, pin the lining so that it just covers the hem edge of the jacket and forms a fold of fabric.
seams with the lining on top.
Next, placing the facings on top, sew the front edges from the bottom up, leaving 4 in. un
stitched near the hem. Stitch 1 in. past the shoulder seams to secure the ends. I find it easier to stitch the back neck section with the lining on top and the front sections with the facings on top, thus sewing this seam in three steps but saving time in the long run. Press the seam flat, then press the seam allowances toward the lining (see the top photo on the facing page). Also press back the %-in. seam allowance that was left unstitched at both lower front lining edges. This lengthwise fold folds over the pressed hemline.
Once the front and back facing sections are sewn, the first step in finishing is to form the jump
hem. A jump hem is a horizontal pleat formed at the bottom of the lining hem. This extra length of lining allows for normal differences in the fabric layers and how they move.
Fabrics have a different hand, drape, and stability, so any time you sew two different fabrics together, these differences can cause pulling and distortion on the outside garment. The jump hem ensures there is enough ease in the lining for normal body movement when you wear the jacket.
To make the jump hem, pin the folded edge of the lining so that it just covers the hem edge, then slipstitch in place (see the bottom photo on the facing page). Repeat this for both sleeve lining hems. At the front facings, smooth the lining toward the hem, pin, and
Smooth the excess lining toward the hem, then slipstitch the unsewn front edge of the lining to the jacket facing.
Jacket Linings 3 5
At the sleeve hem, fold the raw edge of the lining hem to line up with the raw edge of the jacket hem.
With the jacket sleeve and lining sleeve inside out, repin the edges with right sides facing.
slipstitch the lining to the facings. Press the jump hem to form a soft fold.
After the lining is in place, secure the lining shoulder seams to the shoulder pads and the lining armscye to the jacket armscye by using a pickstitch and sewing in the well of the lining seam. Sew just the lower one
third of the armscye, being sure the stitches do not show on the outside.