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Interior Layout Poker-chip divider

In document Making Wooden Boxes (Page 65-69)

Card divider Dice tray 1458 in. 1358 in. 8 in. 21316 in. 4116 in. 138 in. 478 in. 7 in. 78 in. 12 in. 12 in. 14 in. 14 in. 12 in. 12 in.

3.

Raise the tablesaw blade to 316 in. and set the fence 14 in. from the blade. This setup will produce a 14-in.-wide raised lip along both edges of the dice trays. Use a push stick to push the dice tray past the blade. Then rotate the tray, placing the oppo- site edge against the fence, and make another pass over the blade. Reset the fence to 38 in. and make two more cuts, rotating the tray in between. Repeat moving the fence and making cuts until a groove is formed along the length of the tray. Repeat the pre- vious steps to cut the groove into the second dice tray (photo B ).

4.

Sand all the edges and surfaces of the trays and dividers with a sanding block and 150-grit sandpaper.

5.

Brush glue onto the edge-lap joints cut in the card dividers and onto the rabbeted ends of the dice trays. Slide the parts together and clamp. Let the glue dry for two hours before removing the clamps.

6.

To make the three poker-chip dividers, install a 34-in.-radius cove bit in the router table to rout a radius into both sides of each divider. Cut the profiles in three or four progressively deeper cuts (photo c ). Trying to cut the 3⁄4-in.-radius cove in a single pass can cause chipping. Sand the poker- chip dividers smooth with 150-grit sandpaper. Then use the miter saw to trim the three dividers to their finished length of 434 in.

7.

Install all the dividers and trays, and fill the box with the poker chips, cards, and dice. Check to be sure all components fit. Then empty the box and remove hinges before applying the finish.

8.

Lightly sand the entire box with 150-grit sand- paper. Blow off the sanding dust with compressed air and wipe down all surfaces with a clean, dry rag. Then, following the instructions on p. 36, apply a clear topcoat finish to the box.

cUt a 78-in.-wide gRoove along the length of

each dice tray.

B

RoUt a RadiUs into both sides of each of the three poker-chip dividers. (It’s safer to rout one piece 16 in. long and then cut to the finished size.)

c

make the 138-in.-wide cUtoUts into the center

of each card divider. These cutouts will straddle the ends of the dice trays.

eauty and func- tion come together per- fectly in this artist sketch box, which features an intricate banding composed of solid walnut and curly maple hardwood. The box top is cut at an angle, so when it’s opened, there’s a sloped surface for placing a sketchpad. A remov- able interior panel provides space for storing pads and paper, and the upper tray holds pencils, erasers, and other supplies. A handle and two latches make it easy to lock the box and carry it from place to place.

B

Artist

Sketch Box

Accented with two contrasting woods—curly maple and walnut— the center panels of the box are made of richly figured Karelian burl veneer. The burl panels are bordered

by quartered cherry and solid walnut trim on all corners. The walnut trim adds style and visual interest, but it also protects the cherry veneer from any bumps and knocks.

materials

Quantity Part Size conStruction

noteS

2 Box parts 34 in.  512 in.  32 in. curly maple

1 Top 58 in.  11 in.  14 in. maple plywood

1 Bottom 12 in.  1014 in.  1314 in. maple plywood

1 Splines 516 in.  12 in.  24 in. walnut

1 Pencil-tray front 34 in.  1916 in.  1234 in. curly maple

1 Pencil-tray bottom 516 in.  238 in.  1314 in. curly maple

1 Decorative banding 14 in.  2 in.  30 in. curly maple

2 Decorative banding 116 in.  2 in.  30 in. walnut

1 Flitch 142 in.  14 in.  84 in. Karelian burl veneer

(for decorative panels) 1 Flitch 142 in.  6 in.  84 in. quartered cherry veneer

(for decorative borders) 7 Corner banding (pieces) 532 in.  532 in.  30 in. walnut

1 Fixed interior panel 12 in.  1018 in.  1212 in. maple plywood

1 Removable interior panel 12 in.  758 in.  1212 in. maple plywood

4 Panel edge trim 18 in.  58 in.  30 in. walnut

1 Cleat 38 in.  1916 in.  1234 in. curly maple

1 Support block 34 in.  114 in.  1234 in. any hardwood

1 Support block 34 in.  14 in.  1234 in. any hardwood

1 pair Hinges 34 in.  1 in. nickel finish

1 pair Swing catches 118 in.  114 in. nickel finish

3.

Cut the box top from 58-in.-thick maple ply- wood, making it 11 in. wide by 14 in. long. The top must be 58 in. thick to equal the thickness of the curly maple box parts. Now cut the box bottom from 12-in.-thick maple plywood; make it 1014 in. wide by 1314 in. long.

1.

Start by cutting two pieces of curly maple hard- wood to 34 in. thick by 512 in. wide by 32 in. long. Plane both pieces to 58 in. thick, and then rip them on the tablesaw to 518 in. wide (photo A ).

2.

Crosscut each board to produce one 13-in.-long piece and one 16-in.-long piece. These four pieces are slightly longer than needed but will eventually form the front, back, and ends of the box. Making these box parts longer at this stage makes it easier to mill them to their finished dimensions later.

Cut the hardwood and

In document Making Wooden Boxes (Page 65-69)

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