Many birds, particularly game birds as well as other cuts and joints of meat, are often barded or larded. See section on Game for this procedure.
a
Break the backbone with a smart tap with the back of a larger knife. It allows the bird to stand better during cooking and carving.
Place bird on its back, pass trussing needle and string through upper thighbone, the body of the chicken and out on the other side of the thighbone.
b
Turn the bird over onto the breast and pass the needle through the middle portion of the winglet, the folded back neck skin, body skin and again through the winglet on the opposite side.
c
Bring the two end of strings together, draw very tight, adjusting shape of the bird as you do so. Then tie with a double knot and cut string.
d
Insert needle and string into the skin on both sides, make a loop over the protruding leg tips and pass through the skin again just under the breastbone tip.
Then tie and shape again with a double knot and cut string.
e
A well trussed and shaped bird.
FIG. 5.3 The standard method of trussing of poultry and game birds
a
b
(a) Truss with needle and string through winglets and thigh, shape and tie securely. Make a small band incision through the skin about half way at the side of the leg; push drumstick through skin, repeat on other side.
(b) Or push leg all the way through skin band to secure shape.
c
For roasting, table d’hôte and banqueting
Prepare poultry/game as shown in Figure 5.1, including removing wishbone.
Break the backbone in the region of the wing with a tap with the back of the knife so that the bird will lie flat on the board or dish for carving.
See trussing above.
d
For roasting for guéridon or buffet
Prepare as for (c) above but leave legs attached, which is helpful when carving on guéridon or buffet presentation.
Figure 5.1i.
FIG. 5.4 Variations on trussing or binding of poultry and game birds
a
Open the chicken along the backbone with a large narrow knife, passing the knife through the body with the chicken on its back from parson’s nose to the neck. Give this motion a strong clean cut along the back bone.
b
Open the chicken and again with a clean cut remove the backbone (i). Lift out the breastbone (iii).
Place the chicken on a very hot grill for 1–2 min, this will tighten the small rib bones (ii) and help to remove these bones more easily.
Season chicken, brush with oil and mustard or use any other suitable house marinade.
c
When chicken is ready turn it over on the skin side and tuck legs in an incision in the skin as shown and place winglets under body again as shown.
Grill first from the inside and then from the outside with a good brown colour, to make sure that especially the legs are well cooked.
Rest in the oven for a few minutes.
The spatchcock chicken can be grilled, on grill bars, salamander or barbeque.
i
iiii iiii
iii iii ii ii
iii
FIG. 5.5 Preparation of grilled spatchcock chicken
x x y
x
y
a b1 b2
Cut the skin between breast and leg with a sharp knife assuring that both breast and leg have an equal covering of skin.
Trim the leg with small sharp knife by cutting first around the bone b1x and scraping away the skin, resulting in b 2. For some preparations the upper thigh bone b1y may also be removed giving a cavity for stuffing with forcemeat.
FIG. 5.6 Removing, dissecting and preparing legs. Chicken legs may be grilled, fried, braised or often stuffed (see ballotin)
a
The prepared cut off chicken leg with exposed thigh bone.
b
Take leg into your hand and with a small knife scrape the bone clear to the knee joint. Give the bone a twist and it should easily come away from the knee joint.
c
Push back the thigh flesh to expose the knee joint knuckle. Cut close to the drumstick bone cartilage, now push the flesh back and the bone can be easily drawn out of its cavity. Remove any remaining gristle or cartilage.
d
The hollow drumstick cavity and the thigh flesh can be filled with the farce or stuffing of your choice after which bring the two sides of thigh skins together enclosing the filling.
e f
Fix a cocktail stick in crisscross pattern through the skin (e) or shape and hold together with a needle and string (f ).
FIG. 5.7 Preparation of stuffed chicken legs (ballottin de volaille). Other poultry and game birds may be prepared in much the same way
a b
b1 b2 b1
With a sharp knife make an incision on either side of the breast bone, holding knife toward the breast to cut away all flesh. Glide the point of the knife toward the wing bone joint and draw suprême off carcass, assuring good skin cover.
Attached to the suprêmes (b1) are little fillets (b 2), which can come off. Remove small sinew, make a small incision in suprême and tuck fillet in this incision.
Occasionally, fillets are removed to use for farce or sauté.
FIG. 5.8 Preparation of poultry breasts (suprêmes de volaille). Suprêmes can be poached, shallow fried or deep fried, the latter usually in a batter or breadcrumbs
Bat out the suprême and fillet (1 and 2).
Place the farce/stuffing of your choice onto middle of suprême, cover with batted fillet to surround farce (3).
Roll suprême slightly to encircle stuffing-farce (4) Sometimes tied with a string or secured with cocktail stick.
Stuffed suprêmes can be poached, shallow fried or deep fried, in this case they are surrounded by seasoned flour, egg wash and fresh breadcrumbs (pané).
FIG. 5.9 Preparation of stuffed poultry suprême (suprême de volaille farcie). For different forcemeats see Chapter 7.
The most famous of the stuffed suprêmes is the Suprême de volaille Kiev (Chicken Kiev) with garlic butter
P R E P A R A T I O N O F T U R K E Y
Turkeys are usually delivered with some feathers on the neck and wings. Pluck carefully and remove fine feathers as for chicken. Singe and draw the sinews from the legs.
This operation is essential as the sinews will spoil the flesh of the legs and make it impossible to carve them. Cut the skin all round, just above the feet, break the bone, twist the foot, place it in a sinew hook (which used to be found in every Larder) and pull steadily on the leg, pulling all the sinews out attached to the foot or insert a steel and twist (see Plate 5.1a and Figure 5.1g,h).
The rest of turkey preparation and trussing is much the same as that given for chickens above (see also Plate 5.2). The turkey may also be stuffed.
Turkeys, like most poultry and game, have the tender white breast meat and the tougher dark meat on the legs, taking longer to cook/roast. With the small birds this is more easily overcome, by placing the legs uppermost in the roasting tray to expose them to more intense heat. An alternative is to remove them and use a different cooking method, such a stewing or braising.