Mixed Methods Sampling

In this study a combination of two non-probability sampling techniques, purposive and snowball sampling, were used to select the most appropriate samples for each stage of the research based on their relevance to the topic of the investigation. (Denscombe, 2010a). From a critical realist perspective, the identification of entities which make up sample sets forms the basic theoretical building blocks of explanation. Each entity may be an organisation, a person, a process, a resource and so on. In this case entities included the textile collection companies, those people working for them and running them, sustainable fashion designers, brands and expert stakeholders, as well as consumers and users of clothing and textiles. Emphasis is placed on understanding the fundamental nature of such entities, rather than simply their measureable properties. (Easton, 2010).

This is made possible through a mixed methods approach from a critical realist perspective.

In a quantitative sampling approach, a technique designed to eliminate bias is used, and generalisations are made from the sample to the wider population. For a qualitative approach to sampling, participants are selected purposively on the basis of how useful they are to the inquiry. Ontologically and epistemologically, quantitative methods focus on the tangible or empirical reality, using observations and empirical research to establish regularities through deductive or inductive reasoning. Qualitative methods can probe further into the intangible realities, such as the generative mechanisms at work in the real and actual strata of realities, using knowledge constructed from social interaction and understanding, interpreting meanings to gain a deeper comprehension of the causal mechanisms producing empirical observations.

(Bhaskar, 1978; McEvoy and Richards, 2006). Ethical protocols were also accounted for during sampling procedures. Non-disclosure agreements, interview consent forms and transcripts of internet and audio based verbal consent agreements have been made available in Appendix F, pages 623 to 652.

3.5 Research Design

An overview of the mixed methods research design developed for this study is shown in Figure 13. Primary data collection was conducted in four phases using an exploratory sequential mixed method design, in which initial qualitative data collection and analysis informed subsequent quantitative data collection and analysis. (Creswell, 2014). In Research Phase 1, a review of literature on textile collection and fashion upcycling highlighted the interconnected

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nature of a closed-loop system and identified areas worthy of further investigation regarding processing, design practice and communication. Following the review of literature in Research Phase 1; textile collection and circular economy fashion case studies were conducted on Research Phases 2 and 3. Analysis of the qualitative data from Research Phases 1, 2 and 3 informed the quantitative data collection in the consumer survey of Phase 4. In Research Phase 5, a synthesis of the findings and analysis from each prior research phase contributed to the formation of a conceptual framework for transitioning towards circular economy fashion.

This led to the development of a communication strategy for circular economy fashion in Research Phase 6.

Aim 1 sought to analyse the current practices of post-consumer textile collectors. To fulfil this aim, three case studies of exemplifying textile collection firms were carried out during Research Phase 2. Semi-structured interviews with key informants from the waste textile management industry, structured observation and process modelling further documented sorting and grading activities and key themes within the industry. Longitudinal data on collection, production, sales and personnel were collected and analysed for one of the cases, in order to build a complete picture of the flow of value through a typical UK textile collection company. I&G Cohen were selected for longitudinal study based on their representativeness as a typical UK based textile collecting, sorting and grading company. As past participants of previous WRAP and DEFRA studies on textile recycling and collection, the convenience of being locally situated, being active members of the Textile Recycling Association and Recyclatex, plus a willing openness to share data for research purposes, I&G Cohen were ideal candidates. This longitudinal study enabled the identification of opportunities to elevate the value of products, and existing constraints within the system; thus allowing the recommendation of solutions to overcome such problems.

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Aim 2 sought to analyse the current practice in circular economy fashion design and communication strategies during Research Phase 3. To meet this aim, eight ethical fashion brands and five expert stakeholders were identified as individual cases for this stage of the

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research. Semi-structured interviews identified how the brands currently communicated their ethos to their consumers, what information it was important to know about consumers and areas in which they felt more understanding was needed. Expert stakeholders additionally informed the fulfilment of Aim 2, by providing a range of insights into the current issues faced by the ethical fashion industry. Where applicable, designers also gave insights into their employment of a circular economy fashion design process and how this related to their communication strategy. Building on a model developed during a study investigating upcycling in the UK womenswear industry (Han, 2012), interview questions also collected feedback from designers on how faithfully the initial model represented their current design and production processes. This feedback was further developed into a more representative model that could be used when considering scaling up circular fashion strategies.

The focus of Aim 3 was to evaluate how consumer attitudes and behaviours impact on a sustainable fashion system. To fulfil this aim, qualitative insights from informants in Research Phases 2 and 3 of the study established gaps in their consumer knowledge and indicated which lines of inquiry to pursue through quantitative investigation, in line with the exploratory sequential mixed method approach utilised. Along with critical areas highlighted through literature this further contributed to the development of a survey questionnaire during Phase 4. Areas of focus were fashion shopping behaviour; garment use and divestment; fashion influences and information; outlook on fashion consumption and ethics. A sample of consumers with an interest in fashion shopping was made available through internet based social networks and the survey was distributed through online snowball sampling.

Aims 4 and 5 drew together the strands of research and analysis of the study to form a framework and strategy which contribute to further knowledge and understanding of sustainable fashion business. Aim 4 sought to propose a conceptual framework for transitioning towards a circular economy fashion system. This was carried during Research Phase 5 of the study. To fulfil this aim, data derived from Research Phases 1, 2, 3 and 4 (literature review, case studies, interviews and consumer survey) were synthesised and analysed in order develop a framework which reflects an integration of circular economy fashion strategies into mainstream production and retailing, critical for sustainable business practice. The focus of Aim 5 was to develop an effective fashion communication strategy for a circular economy. This was carried out during Research Phase 6 of the study by determining the necessary requirements to effectively connect with consumers regarding sustainable fashion consumption and behaviour change. This strategy was developed from synthesising and analysing data obtained in all prior phases of the study as shown in Error! Reference ource not found..

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