Accuracy is in relation to purpose and provided as a convenience.
D ifferenc e Column 1 Column
2
Column3
(Meas ur ement Char t S ide adj us tments S ide, c enter fr ont, and For thighs o n l y :c ol u m n 6 ) for
2
i n . or less c e nter b ac k adjus tments s id e and i ns ide for more than2
i n . s eam I NC H ES D I V I DE D BY FOU R D I V I D E D B Y E IG H T D I V I DED B Y F O U R 1 '/4 '/8 '/4 1 '/4 % '/8 % 1 '12 % '/4 % 1 % '12 '14 '12 2 '12 '/4 '12 2'/4 '14 % 2 '12 % % 23/4 % %3
% % 3'/4 % 7/83'12
'12 % ]3/4 '12 1 4 '12 1 4'/4 '12 1 '/8 4'12 % 1 '/8 4% % 1 '14 5 % 1 '/4 5'/4 % 1 % 5 '12 % 1 % 5 % % 1 '12 6 3/4 1 '12 6'14 % 1 % 6'12 7/8 1 % 6% 7/8 1 % 7 % 1 % 7'/4 7/8 1' /8 7'12 1 1 % 73/4 1 2 8 1 2 8'/4 1 2 '/8 8'12 1 '/8 2'/8 8% 1 '/8 2'/4 9 1 '/8 2'/4 9 '/4 1 '/8 2% 9'12 1 '/4 2% 9% 1 '142'12
pattern front and back for high hip ( if measured), full hip, and thigh. Draw a line across each pattern piece at the full hip and thigh that is perpendicular to the grainline and label each line. The high hip cannot be drawn in at this time and will be discussed later.
You are now going to measure the pattern width for the waist, high hip ( if measured on your body), full hip, and thigh. These measurements will tell you the size your finished pants will be in these areas before you cut your fabric. Record all pattern measurements in column 5. The procedure is: measure the pattern, record the measurement in column 5, figure the differ ence between columns 4 and 5, record the difference in
column 6, then refer to the chart on the facing page for column 7 adjustment amount.
Since the darts and/or pleats would normally be sewn, they must be folded and pinned closed on the pattern prior to
measuring. If your pattern has pleats, check the pattern envelope picture to see how quickly they dissipate down the front into little or no fullness. The fullness should be pinned closed at the waist by matching the pleat lines. Continue pinning the pleat closed down the leg, gradually dissipating the amount taken up by the pleat to zero (usually about crotchline level). Determine this level from
your pattern envelope or personal preference. With the darts and/or pleats pinned, draw in the line for the high hip from side edge to center front and center back, keeping distance parallel to waist.
To determine the finished width measurements of your pattern, begin by measuring the waist. Sometimes the finished-garment waist and full-hip size are printed on the front pattern piece, but not always. If not, stand the tape measure on edge and follow the curve of the waist (see the photo above) . Add the front and back measurements and multiply by two. Repeat these measuring and recording instructions for the high hip, if measured on your body, and full hip. Total
increases or decreases of 2 in. or less will be done equally at the sides on front and back. Increases or decreases of more than 2 in. will be done equally at the sides, center front, and center back.
Before measuring for width, pin darts and pleats closed. Measure between the seam allowances with the tape measure on edge to get an accurate reading.
To make width adjus tments eas y, us e pr ec ut widths of add in g mac h i n e or fax p ap er when add i n g extr a p ap er to i ncr eas e your p atter n, or tap e your fr ont and b ac k p atter n p iec es to a lar ge s heet of tis s ue or s ketc h p ap er . I n e ither c as e, the p ap er s hould b e s ev
er al i nc hes lar ger than your gr eates t i ncr eas e to al low for the tr u i ng (r edr awing) of a l l p atter n l in es i nterr up ted i n the
adj us ti n g pr oc ess .
Waist Increase/Decrease of
2
in. or LessUnpin all pleats and darts so your pattern is flat.
The final pattern width measurement will be for the thigh. Measure on the thigh line across the pattern front and back. Add the two measurements and record the total in column 5. Thigh adjustments will be made equally at the side seam and inseam on the front and back of the pattern.
Waist increase/decrease If your waist adjustment is a total of 2 in. or less
( Y2
in. or less to each side seam), adjust each side atwaist level (see the left drawing below) . Measure out from the pattern edge for an increase or measure in for a decrease. If your adjustment is a total of more than 2 in. , adjust at each side, center front, and center back
(see the right drawing below) .
Waistband adjustments For a side-closing waistband with a total increase/decrease of 2 in. or less, add or subtract half the total amount of the increase or decrease at the side-seam marking in the middle of the waistband piece. On the ends, add or subtract one-quarter the
Waist Increase/Decrease of More Than
2
in.Make the adjustment at each side on the front and back at the same level as the waist seam. Measure out from the cutting line for an increase or in onto the pattern for a decrease. The newly drawn line will become your cutting line.
If total increase/decrease is more than 2 in., divide the total increase/decrease by
8.
Make the increase/decrease at side, center front, and center back. Use chart on p.52
with Measurement Chart. Newly drawn lines become your cutting lines.