Before receiving any detailed shaping, squared blanks need to be reduced to a cylinder. Use either a deep-fluted or shallow 1-in. (25mm) roughing gouge to take a series of scooping cuts starting at the tailstock end (A). The idea is to reduce the square to almost round as quickly as possible while retaining a vestige of the original square. Keep the gouge rolled in the direction you are cutting, using an overhand grip to deflect the shavings from your face (B). At the other end, roll the tool to cut in the opposite direction off the end of the blank (C). Don’t remove more wood than is necessary.
With the corners removed, take a couple of cuts the length of the cylinder to remove any undula-tions (D). This leaves you with a broad spiral run-ning the length of the cylinder, which needs to be smoothed with a skew chisel. First use the chisel long point up to take a cut, moving off the right end (E). Then flip the tool over to cut to the oppo-site end. Have the tool pointing in the direction you’re cutting, with the long point down (F). You can use the skew with the long point up or down, but it’s less likely to catch with it down.
Blanks less than 1 in. (25mm) square can be roughed using only a skew chisel, again working back from one end. To avoid cutting into the spur drive, cut across the grain about 3⁄8in. (9mm) from the end (G), then cut up to that point (H). You can also use the skew long point up to smooth the cylinder (I).
1
Cuts 1–8: Remove square corners with roughing gouge Cuts 9–10: Smooth blank with skew chisel.
A
V-Grooves
V-grooves should be cut using the skew chisel long point down. For deep grooves, pivot the skew point through an arc into the wood before easing it forward (A). Start by marking center (B), then make subsequent cuts in from either side using the long point of the skew (C, D). The key to cutting a groove without catching the tool is to align the bevel in the direction you want to cut, then ensure that the side of the bevel main-tains contact with the surface just cut. Note that the edge is clear of the wood and that the cut is made with the point.
For practice, cut a set of grooves 3⁄8in. (9mm) deep and about 11⁄4in. (30mm) apart. Try to get them symmetrical.
Grooves can be cut with less risk of a catch by using a detail gouge with a long bevel and finger-nail grind. The disadvantage of using this tool is that the thickness and shape of the gouge pre-vent you from cutting deep and narrow grooves.
As with the skew chisel, line up the bevel in the direction you want to cut and start by pivoting the edge into the wood (E). At the bottom of the groove, roll the gouge on its side so it doesn’t catch the other side of the groove (F).
Arc the point into the wood (A), then push the point toward the center (B). Mark the center of the V (cut 1), then cut in from either side (cuts 2–6).
A
B
A
B
D
F
E C
1 2
53 4
6
Beads
Turning a bead successfully is one of the true joys of woodturning. When turning beads, use the corner of a sharp chisel and let the wood come to the tool rather than pushing the tool hard into the cut. Also, err on the side of caution, taking a series of smaller cuts rather than one big one.
Initially define the width of the bead with a pair of grooves. Start cutting at the center of the rough bead with the skew bevel riding the wood (A), then roll the tool slightly as you push it along the rest (B, C). The trick is to move the tool smoothly without forcing the edge into the wood. Beads can be cut in a couple of passes, but it’s best to initially take very light cuts as you develop the curve. What you cut away cannot be replaced, so proceed cautiously.
As the curve becomes steeper (D), you lose sight of the corner as it cuts. To better see what’s hap-pening, remove the tool, then bring it back long point down to finish the cut (E). Now mirror these cuts to form the other side of the bead (F, G, H). Note that the edge is clear of the bead as the corner cuts.
A B
C
E
G
D
F
H
A favorite professional tool for turning beads is a
1⁄2-in. (13mm) square-sectioned, square-ground beading and parting tool. It’s used almost the same way as a skew chisel, but angled slightly toward the cut (I, J). Using a beading and parting tool like this allows you to cut more efficiently because you don’t need to flick the tool over as you cut one direction, then another.
Beads can also be cut using a detail gouge with a long fingernail-ground edge. However, as when cutting a groove, a gouge will not fit into as nar-row a space as a skew chisel, preventing you from detailing the join where a pair of fully rounded beads meet.
Start the cut on top of the roughed bead with the bevel rubbing (K), then roll the tool slightly as you ease it along the rest (L). At the end of the cut, the gouge needs to be on its side with the nose detailing the join at the base of the curve (M).
Mirror these cuts to turn the other side, making sure you cut with the lower nose of the tool (N, O).
To practice beads, cut a series of evenly spaced V-grooves, then round over the cylindrical por-tions in between using the corner of either a skew chisel or a beading tool (P). A gouge is less satisfactory. While you’re learning, it can help to mark the center of each bead with pencil.
I J
K
M
O
L
N
P See “V-Grooves” on p. 101.