Situation in Marche

Dairy farms

Typical cheeses of the Marche Region are quality products that represent a strategic means for the protection and enhancement of the area. The farms that raise animals for milk production are located throughout the whole region. In the Province of Macerata there are the largest number of farms that raise cows, sheep and goats in the Region. (Table 1, Graphs 1, 2 e 3).

Table 1 – Number of farms which raise milk animals in the Marche’s territory (ISTAT, 2010)

Number of farms for kind of livestock

Territory Milk cows Buffalos Milk sheep Goats

Marche 296 10 672 380 Pesaro e Urbino 57 0 147 100 Ancona 27 2 83 72 Macerata 103 3 217 101 Ascoli Piceno 70 1 151 68 Fermo 39 4 74 39 Graph 1

Vacche  da  latte,               Pesaro  e  Urbino,  

57,  19%  

Vacche  da  latte,               Ancona,  27,  9%   Vacche  da  latte,              

Macerata,  103,   35%   Vacche  da  latte,              

Ascoli  Piceno,  70,   24%  

Vacche  da  latte,               Fermo,  39,  13%  

Locations of farms which raise milk cows in the Marche (ISTAT, 2010)

           Pesaro  e  Urbino              Ancona  

           Macerata              Ascoli  Piceno              Fermo  

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Graph 2

Graph 3

In the Marche, the dairy industry situation consists mainly of small-to-medium farms. The largest number of companies with dairy cattle breed only 1-2 animals. The rearing of sheep reach the highest dimensions, eighty-two companies have more than 500 animals (Graphs 4, 5, 6).

Pecore  da  latte,               Pesaro  e  Urbino,  

147,  22%  

Pecore  da  latte,               Ancona,  83,  12%   Pecore  da  latte,              

Macerata,  217,   32%   Pecore  da  latte,              

Ascoli  Piceno,  151,   23%  

Pecore  da  latte,               Fermo,  74,  11%  

Locations of farms which raise milk sheep in the Marche (ISTAT, 2010)

           Pesaro  e  Urbino              Ancona              Macerata              Ascoli  Piceno              Fermo   Capre,               Pesaro  e   Urbino,  100,   26%   Capre,               Ancona,  72,   19%   Capre,               Macerata,  101,   27%   Capre,              Ascoli   Piceno,  68,  18%   Capre,              Fermo,   39,  10%  

Locations of farms which raise goats in the Marche (ISTAT, 2010)

           Pesaro  e  Urbino              Ancona  

           Macerata              Ascoli  Piceno              Fermo  

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Centro Italiano di Analisi Sensoriale s.r.l. www.analisisensoriale.it Graph 4 Graph 5    Marche,  1-­‐2,    127        Marche,  3-­‐5,    40        Marche,  6-­‐9,    23        Marche,  10-­‐19,    34        Marche,  20-­‐49,    47        Marche,  50-­‐99,    15        Marche,  100-­‐199,    7        Marche,  200-­‐499,    1        Marche,  500-­‐999,    2     N u m b er  o f  f ar m s  

Classes  of  animals  

Distribution  by  animal  classes  of  farms  which  raise  milk  cows  in  the   Marche  (ISTAT,  2010)      Marche,  1-­‐2,  17      Marche,  3-­‐9,  121      Marche,  10-­‐19,  102      Marche,  20-­‐49,  120      Marche,  50-­‐99,  58      Marche,  100-­‐199,  66      Marche,  200-­‐299,  48      Marche,  300-­‐499,  58  

   Marche,  500  e  più,   82   N u m b er  o f  f ar m s  

Classes  of  animals  

Distribution  by  animal  classes  of  farms  which  raise  milk  sheep  in  the   Marche  (ISTAT,  2010)  

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Graph 6

Organic dairy farms

With regard to the certified products, in the Marche are located organic farms that raise cattle, sheep, buffalo and goats. The majority is concentrated in the provinces of Macerata and Ascoli Piceno (Table 2).

Table 2 – Number of zootechnical organic farms in the Marche (ISTAT, 2010)

Type of organic certified livestock

Cattles Buffalos Sheep Goats

Marche 147 2 128 32 Pesaro e Urbino 33 .. 14 6 Ancona 25 1 13 6 Macerata 59 .. 56 11 Ascoli Piceno 25 .. 27 5 Fermo 5 1 18 4    Marche,  1-­‐2,  67      Marche,  3-­‐9,  189      Marche,  10-­‐19,  72      Marche,  20-­‐49,  40      Marche,  50-­‐99,  9  

   Marche,  100-­‐199,  2      Marche,  200  e  più,  1  

N u m b er  o f  f ar m s  

Classes  of  animals  

Distribution  by  animal  classes  of  farms  which  raise  goats  in  the   Marche  (ISTAT,  2010)  

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Milk production, export and import values

Each year, the value of milk production in the Marche is approximately 27.808.684 euro (INEA, 2012).

Exports of the Marche dairy industries in 2012 had a value of € 5.254.129, 10% less than the previous year. The main countries of destination of the goods are Albania (29,6%), France, Austria and the United Kingdom (ISTAT, 2013) (Table 3). Imports exceed exports, the most important are from Germany, Austria and Switzerland (Table 4).

Table 3 – Value of exportation of products from Marche’s dairy industries (euro) (ISTAT,2013)

Countries EXP2010 EXP2011 EXP2012

Albania 1.717.284 1.704.313 1.557.114 France 1.457.515 958.837 816.364 Austria 563.542 576.527 771.693 United Kingdom 111.321 114.778 385.292 Grece 619.012 352.312 273.588 Japan 117.477 163.383 225.152 Germany 2.016.003 1.115.328 165.735 World 7.687.915 5.845.901 5.254.129

Table 4 - Value of importation of products to Marche’s dairy industries (euro) (ISTAT,2013)

Countries IMP2010 IMP2011 IMP2012

Germany 35.257.780 34.445.551 30.274.342 Austria 3.140.683 4.148.410 5.665.976 Switzerland 4.507.830 4.205.057 4.122.773 Slovenia 2.264.071 2.493.192 2.259.414 France 1.454.415 1.571.324 1.457.675 Belgium 1.138 12.527 914.212 World 49.647.271 50.815.545 47.412.553

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Marche’s typical cheeses

The production of typical cheeses such as pecorino, Casciotta of Urbino PDO and Formaggio di Fossa Sogliano PDO, is an important voice in the economy of the Marche Region.

From ancient sources, we learn that the typical cheese of the Marche were very appreciated already in the Rome of Augustus, and in the sixteenth century Casciotta of Urbino had among his admirers Michelangelo, who loved to enjoy it in the spring time of the year in which this product flaunts its best features.

Very wide is the range of the pecorino cheeses that characterize all mountain areas, rich in pastures. In the north of the region is still possible to find the cheese stored in oak barrels, casks or vats in which it is left up to three months wrapped in walnut leaves or, alternatively, arranged in layers together with herbs or vinasse. The rich variety of cheese is completed with some products whose spread is extremely limited, such as Caciofiore dei Sibillini, Casecc, goat cheese, slattato, raviggiolo, until the cheese in the form of lemon, dates back to medieval times and in Bartholomew Scapi’s food list, cook at the papal court in the sixteenth century.

Casciotta di Urbino PDO

The origin area of milk for the transformation of Casciotta of Urbino includes the entire territory of the province of Pesaro and Urbino. The Casciotta is produced primarily with full sheep's milk, to which is added cow's milk to the extent of 20-30%. The milk is heated to a temperature of over 30 °C, then added of rennet to make it coagulate, after the breaking of the curd, the cheese mass is dripped, placed in the molds and then pressed. The forms are dry-salted or with a method of alternating immersion in brine to dry salting. In 2012, 218 tons were produced of this typical cheese, 7,23% less than the previous year (CLAL,2013).

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Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano PDO

The Fossa cheese in 2009 obtained the PDO under the name "Formaggio di Fossa Sogliano Dop". The provinces within the territory of the milk production are Forlì - Cesena, Rimini, Ravenna, Bologna, Pesaro - Urbino, Ancona, Macerata and Ascoli Piceno. The process required to achieve this cheese is long and laborious. In compliance with the strict production regulation, the cheese, partially aged in cold storage for 60 days, must come exclusively from sheep's milk, cow's or a mixture of high quality. The cheeses placed in bags of white cotton, are laid in ancient flask-shaped pits, carved into sandstone rock for a depth of about 4 to 5 meters.

The three months of aging under particular conditions of temperature (16-17 °C) and relative humidity (98%) modify the organoleptic and aromatic characteristics of the cheese, and the weight is reduced by 20%. This tradition originated in the Middle Ages: the farmers at the end of spring, relied their cheeses to the “infossatori”, so that they retained them during the summer and protected them from the predations of war; in November, they returned to pick up the forms, in this way they could cope with the hardships of winter.

In addition to the PDO cheeses, in the region are produced numerous typical cheeses: • Cacio a forma di limone

• Caciotta del Fermano • Caciotta del Montefeltro • Caprino di Urbino

• Casècc

• Pecorino Marchigiano • Pecorino dei Monti Sibillini • Pecorino di Monte Rinaldo • Quark

• Raviggiolo • Ricotta • Slattato

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