If the walls are going to be left like this overnight or longer, without intersecting walls being tied into them, take the time now to put on some sturdier braces. Always prepare for the worst: Poorly braced walls have been known to get blown over the side by a sudden wind gust. One simple way to brace the walls is by shoving a long 2x halfway through the stud wall, nailing it on edge to a stud at the bottom plate and then forming a triangle by nailing 2x4s from each end of the long 2x up to the top of the wall (see the drawing above). Blocks can also be nailed to a wood floor and braces nailed from them to the wall. If you are working on a slab, attach some 2x4 blocks to the floor with pins driven by a powder-actuated fastener (see p. 1 1 4) and secure braces from these to the top of the wall.
Make sure that the raised wall aligns properly with the layout line. You can move a wall by sinking the claws of your hammer under the bottom plate and prying it. A sledgehammer can also be used to tap a wall into position. Finally, nail the bottom plate to the floor with one 1 6d nail per stud space. Drive a nail right next to every king stud, but don't nail in doorways because the plate will be cut out later when the door jamb is set.
When raising walls on a concrete slab, first shove the bottom plate against the foundation bolts. Try to align the holes in the plate with the bolts so the raised wall falls into position. If, despite your efforts, the wall lands on top of the bolts, it will need to be moved. This can be done easily with a short piece of 2x stock. Put the 2x under the plate, use it as a lever to pick the wall up and move it into position
Walls raised on a concrete slab may need to be moved to align the holes in the plate with the anchor bolts.
and drop it down over the bolts. On longer walls this operation may take two or three people work ing together.
Once the through walls have been raised, the shorter butt walls that form other outside and par tition walls can be built and raised. Intersecting walls often have to be raised one end at a time. Pick up one end enough to clear the through wall and then raise the other end. You might find it easier to fit the lapping double top plate on the intersecting wall into the gap in the through wall if you tap it loose from the top plate about Yz in. before raising. Remove the end temporary brace holding the through wall, make sure that the bottom plates of the two walls are both flat on the floor and then nail the end stud of the intersecting wall to the corner of the through wall. Evenly space three 1 6d nails up the end stud and into the backing studs. If you are working on a wooden floor, check that the wall is on the layout line and then nail it down. Walls raised on concrete will be secured to the line later. Continue building and raising the rest of the walls.
Intersecting walls are raised and tied into other walls.
Exterior walls on a concrete slab are secured with nuts tightened on the bolts.
Securing walls to concrete floors
On a slab foundation, the exterior walls are usually bolted to the floor. Washers are placed over the bolts and nuts are then tightened with an impact wrench, a socket wrench or a simple adjustable wrench. Be fore tightening the nuts, make sure that walls sit di rectly on the chalkline so that they will be straight and easily plumbed. If they don't, use a small sledge hammer to line them up.
To fasten interior walls to the floor most carpen ters now use a powder-actuated fastener, which fires a pin through a metal washer, through the bottom plate and into the concrete. This tool should not be used on exterior walls, because the force of the pin can blow a hunk of concrete off the edge of the slab. Before operating a powder-actuated fastener on the job site you should get training from a qualified in structor and a license. This is a tool that demands respect. Read the directions carefully and always wear proper eye and ear protection; never point the fastener at anyone and use it only in the way it was designed to be used.
Interior walls on a slab foundation are often secured with a pin driven by a powder-actuated fastener.
Be sure you have the right-size pin. Codes often call for a 3-in. long pin placed 1 ft. from each end of a plate and then every 6 ft. for the rest of the length of the wall. Don't put any pins in doorways, but do put one on each side of each door, close to the king stud, which will hold the door frame secure once the door is hung.
Some regions allow interior walls to be secured to the floor with a special hardened nail that is driven in with a hammer. Check your local code.
Tying off double top plates
It doesn't take long to nail the double top plate laps at corners and intersecting walls on an average-sized house. But it is important to do it right, because it will make the walls much easier to plumb and line. The fastest way to do this job is simply to hop right up on the walls. It always comes as a welcome relief from framing to jump up on the walls and tie off the laps.
The most important parts of this job are making sure that the plates are nailed in the correct position and that the top plate of intersecting walls butts tight to the top plate of through walls. All the chan nel and corner marks that were put on during detail ing are now used as guides to ensure that everything comes together properly. If necessary, a 1 6d toenail can be driven through the edge of the double top plate of the butt wall and into the top plate of the through wall to force it to line up with the corner or channel marks.
Corner and channel laps are nailed to intersecting walls with two 1 6d nails through the double top plate. Make sure that all walls butt tightly and are properly aligned with their layout marks.
Now you'll appreciate having held the last stud % in. away from the end of the top plate on butt or intersecting walls (see p. 103). The gap allows the top plates to come together freely. As soon as all jOints fit tightly and top plates line up with corner or channel marks, drive two 1 6d nails through the lapped double top plate and into the top plate of the through wall.
Any gaps between the top plates of the butt wall and the through wall have to be closed if the build ing is to be plumbed properly. Usually the easiest way to close these gaps is to drive a 1 6d toenail in to the top plate of the through wall up into the dou ble plate of the butting wall. Striking this nail a few times should draw everything together. Now walk the plates and repeat the same procedure on all of the laps at every corner and channel.
When necessary, high walls can be tied to low walls using metal plate straps. The strap can be run across one of the top plates and secured to a block nailed between studs in the high wall.