the most carefully defended.
1
blind the attackers. This type of wall caused great problems for the sappers. Since the material was a compact block, it held up well to projectile impacts and made it difficult for the attackers to easily bore through.
The tower was the most important element of defence and was generally square or rectangular. They were somewhat ta- ller than the walls and were also used as a garrison. The dis- tance between the towers was reduced when the wall was mo- re exposed.
The gates (bab’) were the most vulnerable parts of the en- tire walled area and had to be carefully defended. Until the X century, the gates were simple a doorway flanked by two towers for protection and two pieces of solid wood that we- re reinforced with metal sheets so that they would not catch fire. During the caliphate period, another small door was added inside. There was a small courtyard between the two doors that was uncovered so that the attac-
kers who were able to get through the outside door could be harassed. In the XI century, doors began to be opened in the towers, which was a more effective and ea-
sier solution. The corri- dor that went from the outside door towards the inside of the for- tress was made into an L-shape so that the attackers could be stopped from entering. The en- trance was located on one side of the tower, perpendicular to the wall, so that the attackers were left unpro- tected on their flank (this type of construction is the one described in this article). From the XI cen- tury, crenellation began to be more usual.
How to build the model
Materials and tools
1mm and 2mm thick cardboard, two-part epoxy putty or Das
Pronto,modelling wood, cutting mat, metal ruler, modeller’s knife, brush and glue. (Picture 1)
Building the tower structure
The tower structure is made of cardboard covered with so- me pieces of wood and metal that are fixed using the epoxy putty.
For the doorways, we cut two 6x8cm pieces of cardboard (1mm) and we draw the outline of the gate on the inside (with a horseshoe arch). (Picture 2)
The tower has two structures made with cardboard (2mm), one on the inside and the other on the outside, and resembles a box placed inside another. We cut out the doorways in the exterior and interior structure using the doors that we pre- viously cut out as a template.
Pieces for the exterior structure: -Three pieces at 10x14 cm
-Two pieces at 14.2x14 cm Pieces for the inside structure: -One piece at 7x10 cm
-Two pieces at 7x14 cm
-Two pieces at 10.2x14 cm
Once all the structure pieces are cut out (do not forget to make the door- ways in both structures), we glue them together using white glue (pictures 3 and 4). When the glue has completely dried, we put the inside structure into the exterior structure, making sure the doorways coincide.
We then finish off the space between the structures with cardboard strips (picture 5). We now have to add a length of wall (wall A and B) to both sides of the tower, for which we will need the following pieces of cardboard (2mm): Wall A pieces: -Two pieces at 5x5 cm -One piece at 9x5 cm 57 SEy 5 6 7 8 9 10
-One piece at 7x5 cm Wall B pieces:
-Two pieces at 3x5 cm -One piece at 9x3 cm -One piece at 7x3 cm
We then assemble and glue the pieces of both walls (pictu- re 6). We finish the top part off with small cardboard pieces of the same thickness (picture 7). To complete the sides of each wall we glue a thin piece of cardboard on the exposed area (the sides). When it is completely dry, we trim off the excess cardboard using the modeller’s knife.
Now that we have built the entire structure we must finish the space between the outside and inside doorways (picture 9). To do this, we cut out a piece of thin cardboard paper and adapt it to the space. The finish is obtained by using the follo- wing procedure. It should be carried out in parts so that the putty does not dry:
-cover the structure with the two-part epoxy putty (or Das Pronto ) little by little (picture 10). We recommend you wet your hands with water to make spreading the putty easier. While we cover the structure and before the putty dries, we carefully add texture using a toothbrush. (Picture 12)
-add decorations with modelling wood (picture 11). - add embrasures or portholes in the tower (picture 13). -remove chunks of the plaster from the walls (picture 14). -make small horizontal lines so that it resembles a wall. -decorate the top part of the gates with sentences in Arabic
(preferably from the Koran). (Picture 15)
-make the surrounding ground by using a bit of modelling paste on the base and around the whole perimeter. Add texture with the toothbrush.
We finish the decoration by painting the entire structure in brown tones and then adding a plaster effect with light tones or white with a dry brush.
Building the tower’s wooden rooms
In one of the sides, we cut out a 2x2 cm square as an entrance or access from one room to another. We cover one of the sides with small sheets of modelling wood so that it looks like floor- boards. Use the white glue to fix them to the structure. So that it looks more realistic, the boards should be slightly different thicknesses. Once they are glued in place, trim them with a knife.
We should put strips that are 5 cm long and 5 cm wide that act as wooden supports to place the room in the tower and so that it does not move around. These strips should be glued on the inside of the room at 2 cm from the top edge. (Picture 16) Building the gates
We cut out two pieces of cardboard (1mm thick) at 7x2 cm. To make the doorframe we cut and glue wood strips with a 2mm cross section on top of the cardboard. The longest of the late- ral pieces should overhang 2mm on the top and bottom. This will be used for the door’s pivot.
We are going to cover the centre of the gate with small me- tal sheets (tin) to simulate the original gates (horizontal strips that are 5mm wide). The hinges or holes where the gates are going to be placed so that they can open and close will be ma- de out of wood strips that are 48 mm long and with a 4x4 mm cross section. We must make two holes on the ends that are separated by a distance of 38 mm. These pieces are then glued in the doorjambs; we must put the bottom ones on first and then the top ones. After this, we fit the gate between the two. We make certain that the gates close correctly before gluing them.
Author & photography: Adolfo Ramos Lobo
58 SEy
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