In the realm of marksmen, a line from the famous Hollywood actor, John Wayne is often quoted. “Windage and elevation, Mrs. Langdon; windage and elevation.”
This pearl of cowboy wisdom from the 1969 movie, The Undefeated (Turner Classic Movies) was given to a novice shooter who was picking up a rifle to fight off attacking banditos. While this may seem like an oversimplification of long-distance shooting, quite frankly, the quote is not far off the mark (no pun intended).
Of course, anyone who has ever attempted to hit a small target at 1,000 yards or more knows it’s not that simple.
Reading the wind becomes a science unto itself if one aspires to reach the pinnacle of long- range shooting. Knowing both the speed and direction of the wind is critical. Of all of the factors impacting the aim point, movement of the air will steer your bullet off course as much as any other variable.
There are numerous methods long-distance shooters use to judge wind speed. I have watched very competent marksmen pinch a few blades of grass, hold them shoulder high, and release them. They then measure how far away from their body the vegetation flew in order to estimate the wind. I have never seen a serious rifleman lick his thumb and hold it up.
Since as the bullet slows down, wind will have more effect on flight path, the wind speed and direction around the target is more important than close to the shooter. Most professionals try to gauge wind speed by looking at indicators in proximity to the target. This, unfortunately, is often difficult to do.
Wind tunnels, such as often occur in large cities with skyscrapers, exist in mountain terrains or canyon lands as well. The air may be calm at the shooter’s position, while at 500 meters it could be blowing significantly enough to cause a missed shot. The reverse can easily be true.
The direction of the wind is also important. A 20 mph wind moving in the exact same direction as the bullet will not have the same effect as if blowing at a ninety-degree angle.
There is equipment that can determine the wind speed and direction at the shooter’s position. Often referred to as a “weather station,” these handheld devices will provide the shooter with all sorts of information regarding both current and average conditions as well as altitude. The proper name for a wind speed indicator is an anemometer (Figure 12.13). I have successfully found them at big box outdoor stores in the boating department as well as the hunting area.
There are actually three sub-factors involved with wind: the wind speed, wind direction, and ballistic coefficient (BC) of the bullet being fired through the air. In windy conditions, the higher the BC, the less the wind is going to push the round during flight.
I wish I could provide you with some great technique to read the wind. Unfortunately, I can’t. I have come to believe it is a combination of black art, experience, and common sense. The traditional methods involve reading the movement of vegetation close to the target or studying the mirages of air at long-distances. Experience is the key to both.
Many experienced hunters and military snipers develop quite a high level of skill reading vegetation near the target. Some of the common indicators one might hear:
The wind must be at least 3 mph to be felt on arm hair Using your face is the best method to determine direction A 5 mph wind will rustle leaves
A 10 mph wind will move branches of lighter trees Thin weeds and bushes will move at 8-10 mph
Now I have several problems with giving this type of advice. First of all, the vegetation in your part of the world may be completely different than mine. At what wind speed does a mature cornfield rustle versus the stalks actually bending? Are high desert pinion pines “motivated” at the same speed as low altitude spruce?
Smoke and dust are also recommended as wind speed and direction indicators, but how often are these elements present?
I once had a retired sniper tell me that a piece of paper blows down a city street in wind over 10 mph. While I thought the method was sage, I had to wonder about the varying weight of
different papers, so I went out in our street one day and tried it. A sheet of newspaper will move quite nicely at 5-7 mph. A greeting card, with its fold into the wind, won’t move at all.
Am I splitting hairs here? No, I’m attempting to make a point that reading the wind takes a lot of experience, practice, and documentation.
The military sniper schools teach something called reading the mirage. This widely accepted method works quite well in all but the most extreme conditions. There are two drawbacks to using mirages:
1) It is much easier to gauge the mirage through a spotting scope than the typical riflescope.
2) For distances under 600 meters, mirages can be difficult to detect in mild temperatures. One very good, free source on the subject of reading mirages that every Virtus of velocity should study is the United States Army’s FM 32-10, Sniper Training Field Manual. Since we are primarily
covering distances of less than 600 meters in this work, I will not delve further into reading mirages here. If the reader intends to shoot longer distances, this is a subject worthy of research.
I can recommend purchasing a weather station, such as the device shown above. Again, obtaining long-distance accuracy adds to one’s investment. I use my weather station to verify my manual reading of the wind. Before a shot, I study the conditions using what is available and make my call. I then use the weather station to see how close I was. With experience, you should get closer and closer to an accurate estimation without depending on a battery-powered electronic device.
Another option that functions well in some situations is one of many free smart phone
applications. These products utilize the shooter’s GPS location and the nearest weather station to report wind speed and direction as well as other data used to modify the BC. The specific one I use is called “External Ballistics Lite,” and it was free for my Android phone. There are other, even more sophisticated phone-based products, but I have not used those and will leave it up to the reader’s judgment and research to determine their value.
In a later section, the topic of DOPE, or logging Data On Previous Engagements will be explored in some detail. I have found it very useful to document the wind and its impact on my aim point. The exercise of documenting the conditions will increase your knowledge base on the topic. Once you have determined the wind speed and direction, calculating the effect on your shot is not difficult. Like many topics, there are various methods used to predict this drift.
One of the simplest and most commonly used is taught by the United States Marine Corps. The USMC teaches the following formula:
Range in 100-Yard increments, multiplied by the effective wind speed, divided by 15 So let’s say the target is 350 yards out. You have a 10 mph wind blowing from 3 o’clock.
Your math would look like this:
4 x 10 = 40 40 / 15 = 2.6 MOA You would click off or hold off 2.6 MOA for windage.
The 350-yard distance was rounded up to 400. The 4 is the increment. The 10 is the wind speed after compensating for direction.
The 15 is a constant…sort of.
Now this formula, like all of the other methods, has its drawbacks. To begin with, the divider, 15, is a constant for target ranges inside of 500 yards. If your shot is longer, then that constant is no longer constant – it changes:
600 yards = 14 700 yards = 13 800 yards = 12 …and so forth
When I have compared this method to a ballistics computer’s values, the numbers are actually very close if the shot is less than 600 yards and you are using a .308 (7.62) round. With other cartridges, the similarity is not as constant.
Since I only use two different calibers of ammunition in the field, it was easy for me to slightly modify this formula to achieve results that are a little more accurate. Here is Joe Nobody’s modified USMC method:
If my BC begins with a .3, then I round the distance up. This works for 5.56 BCs If my BC begins with a .4, then I round the distance down. This works for .308 BCs I then use the exact same math as the USMC teaches.
Another method is to use a “pull-up,” or flash card. This method involves pre-computing the effect of wind on your specific weapon and load. Since we are talking about combat-accurate weapons being used at the extreme extent of their range, this is an excellent solution. For my 5.56 NATO rifle, mine looks like the chart below (Figure 12.14).
You will notice that I have converted the inches of drift to MOA. This is because the optic I would be using has adjustment turrets that are scaled in MOA. If I have a 3 o’clock 10 mph wind with a target distance of 400 yards, then I have 4.4 MOA to adjustment. My scope, as an
example, is .25 MOA per click, so I would count off 18 clicks right.
You will notice that the adjustments on the right-hand side of the compass have a slightly lower value than the corresponding entries on the left. This is because my rifle has a right-hand twist, meaning the groves in the barrel are cut in a spiral to the right. The bullet squirts out of the muzzle spinning clockwise. Decades ago, when I first heard of barrel twist, I thought the effect
was something to worry about only at extreme distances. For my old M1 Carbine (.30), it didn’t seem to make any difference in my shots out to 150 or so – about the best you can do with a Korean Surplus, worn-out rifle.
As I graduated to higher muzzle velocity weapons, I started noticing a difference.
In those days, we practiced in a valley where targets were set up at both ends of a 300-yard flat area. The drill was to fire at one end until everything was knocked down or so full of holes you couldn’t discriminate the last shot. We would walk down, reset targets, and then shoot back at targets set up at our original starting line. This back and forth, two-ended shooting gallery allowed for more shooting and less walking. If there were a crosswind, and there normally was, you would notice the same rifle, ammunition, and shooter printing just a tad higher with a little less drift going one direction than the other.
I won’t bore you with a long dissertation of Bernoulli Principle physics, but let it suffice to say that the spin of the bullet allows it to “sail” the headwind ever so slightly. At least that’s what I have read and heard from many ballistic professionals. The bullet doesn’t rise, mind you – it just doesn’t drift or drop as much.
Click, Click, Click
Once you have established your point of aim, there is yet another decision to be made. You have the choice of “holding off,” adjusting your optic, or a hybrid approach using both methods. Holding off means you compensate for bullet drop and windage visually. Rather than hold the crosshairs on the target, you move them to center on a point that includes all adjustments. In reality, there are so many variables in this decision it is difficult for someone writing a book to recommend one method over the other. If your reticle is etched with multiple adjustment features, holding off may be the answer. If your scope isn’t designed for field adjustments, you may not have any alternative.
The number of targets at range may also impact your thinking. In the mortar crew scenario at the beginning of this section, there are multiple targets clustered in a small group. In that environment, adjusting the optic may be the right choice, allowing the operator can concentrate on putting the crosshairs on the target rather than adjusting for hold.
Many snipers click off windage adjustments but use a holdover for drop. Other shooters like this hybrid approach, but execute the opposite corrections. I have found that experience with converting MILs to MOA has a lot to do with the way many operators choose to compensate. For me, I almost always use holdoff. The long-range shot is the exception in my typical role, so for me to start fiddling with scope knobs, messing with my zero (or lack thereof) is a bit much. This is especially true if I am in a situation where the odds are strong that after the long shot I may be engaging threats closer in.
Control
The term “control” is my own. You won’t find it in any military manual or training class that I know of. Control speaks to the few minutes prior to the shot and the process is completely mental.
Breathing is probably the most critical aspect of control. The average human completes a full cycle in inhaling and exhaling every 5 to 6 seconds. It takes 2 seconds to both inhale and exhale which leaves about 2 seconds where the diaphragm is inactive. The length of this inactive period can supposedly be extended to 8-10 seconds with little effort by the shooter. I have never been able to do this for more than two or three times without starting to anticipate the cycle, which causes my body to move.
What I have found to work for me is to gradually take just slightly deeper breaths at a normal rate and then hold in the relaxed phase until taking the shot. The chart below (Figure 12.15) depicts this method:
In reality, I have found that everyone controls breathing slightly differently. Depending on your age, physical condition and other factors, minor variations of this method should work. The critical part is that you establish a routine and stick to it. Snipers train by exerting
themselves (running, exercise, etc…) until they are breathing hard and then force themselves to enter a cycle similar to the one above. Since you can’t predict what the situation will be when you need to take a shot, there may be times where you have had to move quickly into position carrying a load of gear. Having confidence that you can get your breathing under control in an already stressful engagement is half the battle.
Another item in the category of Control is relaxing your body. Most people don’t take this factor seriously enough. Many beginners will have an attitude of “Okay, I’m relaxed…I’m Mister Jack Frost…what next?” when told to relax. This is a mistake. You should relax your entire body to the point of urination. (I learned quickly that I should empty my bladder before practicing long- range lead delivery). Flatulence is common. I start at my toes and mentally work my way up, relaxing every muscle along the way. You should attempt to be so de-tensed your trigger finger feels too weak to squeeze.
Relaxation ties back into the subject of Position from above. If the weapon is not properly supported, you won’t be able to completely relax. In the field, achieving a position that provides 100% support of the weapon is rare. It is a worthy investment of time and effort to get as close as possible, however.
Trigger
When comparing off-the-shelf rifles to sniper rifles, one of the first things most people notice is the trigger. The amount of pull required to engage the firing pin is measured in pounds, and on a long-distance weapon the pull is much less than the typical combat blaster requires. Most mid- range battle rifles have a trigger pull between 6-8 pounds. Unless modified by the operator, this is the approximate specification used by many militaries for several different reasons, with safety being one of the primary justifications.
A long-range military weapon is often fielded with a lighter trigger pull of four pounds or less. Many competition rifles release at just over a pound.
There is a lot more to a good trigger than pull weight. Some shooters prefer a two-stage trigger while others like a single. Almost everyone agrees that the release should be smooth and quite clean. It is common to see trigger action being described as a “glass smooth,” and having a “clean break.”
In recent years, some very interesting high-speed micro-camera footage has been filmed concerning the firing cycle of weapons. If you have the chance, I recommend you study some of these videos.
Zeroing Mid-Range Rifles
To many shooters, zeroing a long-range rifle is no big deal. Many folks go to a known distance range, hang their target at 100 yards, and use 2-5 rounds of ammo aligning the crosshairs. They spend the hunting season happy as a sailor on shore leave in Rio, successfully harvesting game out to 200 yards or so.
Hunters operating in a more challenging environment may purchase equipment and develop skills capable of longer ranges and more extreme conditions, but few civilians regularly execute shots of greater than 800 meters.
One exception is NRA F-Class competitors. They are no strangers to organized, regulated matches held at 1,000 yards and have several categories of equipment and scoring.
For the purposes of this book, the definition of long-range shooting is 1,000 yards and beyond. This is a completely new world for most people. The tolerances allowed from an equipment perspective are so finite that frustration can quickly set in and many contenders simply give up. More so than any other topic in the book, achieving the level of Shootist for long-range
encounters depends on having the proper hardware.
Most firearms enthusiasts have some knowledge of the different military sniper schools at Fort Benning, Camp Robinson or Kaneohe Bay. (The Marines train some of their long-distance shooters in Hawaii as well as other bases.) While these courses are taught by some of the most skilled warriors in the world, what most people don’t think about is the quality of the armories servicing these schools (as well as the snipers in the field). To me, the experts building the rifles, mounting the optics, and manufacturing the ammunition are as important as the actual trigger pullers where accuracy is concerned.
There is technically little difference in the process used to zero a 400-yard rifle versus a 1,200- yard weapon. There is, however, a huge difference in the margin of error allowed with the weapon and optics.
While practically every component of a high dollar accu-blaster is more refined than its lower cost cousins, there are a few critical factors that you, as the Shootist, can control with any weapon.
There are four factors involved in zeroing longer-range weapons: Canting – The scope or optic being level with the barrel (left to right) Incline – The rifle barrel and optic being perfectly level (forward to back)
Vertical – The optic being aligned for the bullet to impact, with drop at the distance desired