Model Plane

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The Right Flyer 40T Mk.II is distributed exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors

18480 Bandilier Circle Fountain Valley, CA 92728

I N S T R U C T I O N S F O R F I N A L A S S E M B L Y

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This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire assembly process of your new Right Flyer 40T Mk.II in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly as-semble your new airplane and also learn many tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before going any further.

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Please read through each step before starting assembly. You should find the layout very complete and simple. Our goal is to guide you, the beginner, through assembly without any of the headaches and hassles you might expect.

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When you are ready to glue any parts together, test fit them first without using glue. This will ensure you have the correct parts and that they fit together properly.

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There are check boxes next to each step. After you complete a step, check off the box. This will help you keep from losing your place.

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If you come across this symbol , it means that this is an important point or an assembly hint.

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Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the individual parts.

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Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the small parts in after you open the accessory bags.

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We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great flying airplane.

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please contact us at the address below:

Global Hobby Distributors Customer Care

18480 Bandilier Circle Fountain Valley, CA 92728 Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 E-mail: [email protected]

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for choosing the Global Right Flyer 40T Mk.II ARF. Whether you have built and flown other R/C airplanes, or if this is your first, you will appreciate the high quality, ease of assembly and excellent flight characteristics of the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II.

The Right Flyer 40T Mk.II was designed by expert modelers to be one of the best trainer airplanes available today. It features a constant cord wing with a flat bottom airfoil for superior slow flight handling and forgiving flight characteristics. The long tail moment and large tail surfaces help the airplane fly very smooth throughout the entire speed range. Tricycle landing gear makes takeoffs and landings a breeze too. This combination makes the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II one of the best trainers you can buy.

When you open up the box, you'll notice that you won't have much left to do or to purchase to finish your new airplane. Unlike other trainer kits, the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II comes complete with wheels, fuel tank, pushrods, clevises and hinges, among many other items. The airframe is completely built and covered by master craftsmen, who take their time to ensure that every part is straight and properly glued.

We hope you enjoy your new Global Right Flyer 40T Mk.II as much as we have enjoyed designing and building it for you. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact us. We have also included a product survey in the back of this manual. Please take the time to fill it out and send it to us. We would enjoy hearing any comments or suggestions you may have.

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KIT CONTENTS

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Each photo below represents the parts that are required in a main section of the assembly process. Before you begin assem-bly, group the parts like we show. This will ensure you have all of the parts before you begin assembly. It will also help you become familiar with each part. The corresponding part number is listed first, then the quantity of that particular part, along with a short description of the part. As you proceed through assembly, you will notice the same part number listed next to a particular part necessary for that step. If you have any questions as to what that part might be, refer back to this section.

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

q {1} Fuselage w/Pushrod Housings q {1} Left Wing Half w/Aileron & Hinges q {1} Right Wing Half w/Aileron & Hinges q {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges q {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges

1 2 3 4 5

FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY Main Gear ASSEMBLY

q {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires q {2} 60mm Diameter Wheels q {2} Nylon Spacers

q {2} Wheel Collars

q {2} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screws q {4} Nylon Landing Gear Straps q {8} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws 19 20 21 22 23 WING ASSEMBLY

q {1} Plywood Dihedral Brace W-3 q {2} Wing Hold Down Dowels W-8 q {1} Precovered Plywood Wing Doubler q {1} Plywood Aileron Servo Tray

q {2} Hardwood Aileron Servo Tray Blocks

14 15 16 17 18 24 25 1 2 3 5 4 q {1} 240cc Fuel Tank q {3} Aluminum Tubes q {1} Weighted Fuel Pickup q {1} Silicon Fuel Tubing q {1} 17mm Diameter Rear Plate q {1} 20mm Diameter Front Plate q {1} Rubber Stopper q {1} 3mm x 18mm Machine Screw 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 6 12 10 8 11 13 9 7 17 16 14 18 15 20 19 25 24 21 22 23

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NOSE GEAR ASSEMBLY

q {1} Prebent Nose Gear Wire q {1} 60mm Diameter Wheel q {1} Nylon Nose Gear Bracket q {1} Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm q {1} Nylon Spacer

q {2} Wheel Collars

q {3} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screws q {4} 3mm x 18mm Machine Screws q {8} 3mm Flat Washers

q {4} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

26 27 28 29 30

PUSHROD CONNECTOR ASSEMBLIES

q {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates q {4} 2mm x 16mm Machine Screws q {4} Nylon Clevises

q {4} Nylon Snap Keepers

q {2} Adjustable Servo Connectors

44 45 46 47 48 PUSHROD ASSEMBLIES

q {2} 2mm x 95mm Threaded Wires w/L-Bends q {2} 2mm x 415mm Threaded Wires w/Z-Bends q {1} 2mm x 530mm Threaded Wire w/L-Bend q {1} 2mm x 590mm Threaded Wire w/L-Bend

40 41 42 43 MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS q {4} 3mm x 19mm Machine Screws q {8} 3mm Flat Washers

q {4} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts q {2} Precovered Triangle Stock

36 37 38 39

METRIC CONVERSION CHART

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = MM

1/64” = .4mm 1/32” = .8mm 1/16” = 1.6mm 3/32” = 2.4mm 1/8” = 3.2mm 5/32” = 4.0mm 3/16” = 4.8mm 1/4” = 6.4mm 3/8” = 9.5mm 1/2” = 12.7mm 5/8” = 15.9mm 3/4” = 19.0mm 1” = 25.4mm 2” = 50.8mm 3” = 76.2mm 6” = 152.4mm 12” = 304.8mm 18” = 457.2mm 21” = 533.4mm 24” = 609.6mm 30” = 762.0mm 36” = 914.4mm 31 32 33 34 35 26 27 29 28 33 34 35 31 30 32 39 36 37 38 42 43 41 40 47 45 44 48 46

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FULL SIZE HARDWARE DRAWINGS

Listed below are full size drawings of the small hardware items included with the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II. Use these drawings to familiarize yourself with each part. Please refer back to this page to locate the proper hardware items when they are needed for a particular assembly step. These drawings are especially helpful when trying to identify the different size screws or nuts used in a particular step.

IMPORTANT We have included a glossary of terms beginning on page # 31. Use this glossary if you

come across a term that is unfamiliar.

3mm x 6mm Machine Screw 3mm x 18mm Machine Screw 3mm x 19mm Machine Screw 2mm x 16mm Machine Screw 3mm x 12mm Wood Screw 3mm Flat Washer 3mm Nylon Insert Nut Wheel Collar 3mm x 5mm Machine Screw (for servo connector)

Control Horn Backplate

Control Horn Nylon Clevis Nylon Snap

Keeper Servo Connector Body Servo Connector Body Nut Nylon Spacer Nylon Landing Gear Strap

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q {1} Hitec 4 or More Channel Radio w/4 Servos q {1} Cirrus 12” Servo Extension # 444713 q {1} Dubro Foam Rubber # 513

q {1} Global Fuel Line # 115923 q {1} Arco # 64 Rubber Bands # 24649 q {1} Dubro Lead Balance Weight # 351 q {1} Dubro Hook & Loop Material # 348 q {1} Magnum XL .40ARNV # 210740 q {1} APC 10 x 6 Propeller # LP10060 q {1} Thunderbolt Glow Plug # 115493 q {1} Magnum Polished Spinner Nut # 237210 q Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500

q Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510 q Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565 q Electric or Hand Drill

q Assorted Drill Bits q Modeling Knife

q Machine Oil or Vaseline q Phillips Head Screwdriver

q 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

q Pen or Pencil q Builders Triangle q Masking Tape q Paper Towels q Rubbing Alcohol q Wire Cutters

q Epoxy Mixing Sticks q Epoxy Mixing Cups q Straight Edge Ruler q Magnum 12V Electric Starter # 361006

q Magnum 12V Fuel Pump # 237377 q Magnum Locking Glow Clip # 237440 q Global 12V Battery # 110171

q Global 12V Charger # 110270 q Magnum Power Panel # 237390

q Global Field Buddy Flight Box # 233072 q Magnum 4-Way Wrench # 237420

FOR 2 CYCLE ENGINE

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED

FIELD SUPPORT EQUIPMENT NEEDED

OPTIONAL ITEMS

q {1} Cirrus On-Board Battery Indicator # 444762 q {1} Magnum 2-1/4” Chrome Spinner # 237153 q {1} Prather Prop Balancer # 3000

Note - The part numbers for the servo extension and the On-Board Battery Indicator are for Hitec and JR radio systems. These items are also available with different connectors for use with Futaba and Airtronics radio systems.

Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any components parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed

the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. We also recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to help you locate a flying field in your area also.

Academy of Model Aeronautics 5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN. 47302-9252 (800) 435-9262 www.modelaircraft.org

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PARTS REQUIRED

WING ASSEMBLY

INSTALLING THE DIHEDRAL BRACE

q 1) Look at the surface of each root rib on both wing halves. Notice how the excess covering mate-rial overlaps onto them. Using a modeling knife, carefully trim the covering from both of the root ribs, leaving about 1/16” of covering overlapping so it does not pull away. See photo # 1 below.

q {1} Left Wing Half w/Aileron & Hinges q {1} Right Wing Half w/Aileron & Hinges q {1} Plywood Dihedral Brace W-3 q {1} Precovered Plywood Wing Doubler

2 3 14 16

Photo # 1

Removing most of the covering from the two root ribs will expose more of the wood. This will result in a stronger joint when the wing halves are glued together later.

q 2) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark the centerline of the plywood dihedral brace W-3. Draw one vertical line, on each side, at this location. See photo # 2 below.

Photo # 2

The dihedral brace is cut in the shape of a "V". The "V" shape should face the top surface of the wing when the brace is installed. The top surface of the wing is the curved surface.

q 4) Test fit both of the wing halves together with the dihedral brace temporarily installed. Do not glue the two halves together yet! The wing halves should fit together tight with little or no gaps in the center section joint. If the center section joint is not tight, remove the wing halves and lightly sand the edges and tips of the dihedral brace. Test fit the wing halves together with the dihedral brace installed again. Re-peat this step until you are satisfied with the fit of the wing halves and the dihedral brace.

It is important that the wing halves fit together properly. The better the fit, the stronger the cen-ter section joint will be.

q 5) When satisfied with the fit of the wing halves, remove the wing halves and the dihedral brace. q 6) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Working with only one wing half for now, apply a thin layer of epoxy inside the plywood dihedral brace box and to only half of the dihedral brace. Make sure to cover the top and bottom, as well as the sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

Mix equal amounts of epoxy for about 1 minute. This will ensure both parts are thoroughly in-corporated together.

q 7) Slide the dihedral brace into the plywood box up to the centerline. Remove any excess epoxy be-fore it dries using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to cure before proceeding.

Photo # 3

JOINING THE WING HALVES

q 8) Once the epoxy has cured, trial fit both wing halves together to double check that the wing halves still fit correctly.

q 3) Test fit the plywood dihedral brace into the plywood dihedral brace box in each wing half. The brace should slide into each wing half up to the cen-terline. If it does not, remove the brace and lightly sand the edges and tips until the proper fit is obtained. See photo # 3 at top right.

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Photo # 4

q 11) Once the epoxy has fully cured, double check the center section joint. If any gaps are present, mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy and carefully fill any remaining gaps. Remove any excess epoxy and allow it to cure thoroughly before proceeding.

INSTALLING THE WING DOUBLER

q 12) Set the plywood wing doubler in place on top of the wing. The back edge of the doubler should be even with the trailing edge of the wing and the sides of the doubler should overlap the centerline of the wing equal amounts. See photo # 5 below.

Photo # 5

q 13) While holding the doubler in place, use a pen and draw around the doubler to outline it onto the top of the wing.

PARTS REQUIRED

WING MOUNTING

INSTALLING THE HOLD DOWN DOWELS

q {1} Fuselage w/Pushrod Housings q {2} Wing Hold Down Dowels W-8

1 15

q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the cover-ing from over the two predrilled wcover-ing hold down dowel holes in front of the wing saddle. One hole is located on each side of the fuselage 9” behind the front of the fuselage and 1/2” down from the top of the fuselage.

q 2) Remove the covering from over the two pre-drilled wing hold down dowel holes in back of the wing saddle. One hole is located on each side of the fuselage 20-3/8” behind the front of the fuselage and 1/2” down from the top of the fuselage.

q 3) Slide one wing hold down dowel through the two front holes and one through the two back holes. Center the two dowels in the fuselage. Both ends of each dowel should protrude from the fuselage sides equal amounts. See photo # 6 below.

q 9) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the exposed half of the dihedral brace, the inside of the plywood box in the second wing half, and the entire surface of both root ribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

q 10) Slide the two wing halves together and care-fully align them at the leading and trailing edges. Wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Use masking tape to hold the two wing halves in place until the epoxy fully cures. See photo # 4 below.

q 14) Remove the doubler. Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from just inside the outline.

When cutting through the covering, cut with enough pressure to only cut through the cover-ing itself. Try not to cut down into the wood. Removing the covering will allow a better bond be-tween the two parts. Glue does not stick well to the covering material used on R/C models, so always re-member to remove the covering from any surface to be glued.

q 15) Glue the doubler to the wing using Kwik Bond Thick C/A. Hold the doubler firmly in place until the glue fully cures.

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q 4) When satisfied with their fit, use a pencil and place a mark on each dowel were they exit the fuse-lage sides. Remove the two dowels.

q 5) Mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Using a mixing stick, apply a thin layer of epoxy to the inside edges of each of the four holes in the fuselage sides.

q 6) Slide the dowels back into place, aligning the marks on the dowels with the fuselage sides. Use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol remove any excess epoxy. Allow the epoxy to cure before proceeding.

ALIGNING THE WING

q 7) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline of the fuselage at both the front and the rear of the wing saddle. Place one mark on top of the fuselage at the back edge of the wing saddle and one mark at the front of the wing saddle. See photo # 7 below.

Photo # 7

These two marks will help you align the wing when you install it onto the fuselage. You may wish to make these marks in permanent ink so you can align the wing correctly each time you install the wing. This will ensure the wing is aligned properly every time you fly the airplane.

q 8) Place the wing onto the wing saddle. The joint where the two wing halves were glued together is considered the centerline of the wing. Align the centerline of the wing at both the front and the rear of the wing saddle with the two centerline marks you made on the fuselage.

q 9) Using a couple of # 64 rubber bands, tempo-rarily install the wing. To properly install the rubber bands, hook one over one of the front wing hold down dowels, carefully pull it back over the wing and hook it over the rear hold down dowel on the same side. Install two rubber bands on each side for now.

MOUNTING THE WING

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

q {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges q {2} Precovered Triangle Stock

4 39

Photo # 8

q 1) Remove the elevator from the horizontal sta-bilizer. Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline of the horizontal stabilizer, at the trailing edge, and place a mark. Use a triangle and extend this mark, from back to front, across the top of the stabilizer. Also extend this mark down the back of the trailing edge. See photo # 8 below.

q 2) Using a modeling knife, remove the cover-ing from over the top of the precut hole in the center of the stabilizer. The hole is located 2” behind the leading edge and is 1” long and 3/16” wide.

q 3) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark the centerline of the fuselage at both the front and the rear of the stabilizer mounting platform. When you place the mark at the rear of the platform, extend the mark down the back edge of the fuselage. This will make it easier to line up the horizontal stabilizer. See photo # 9 below.

Photo # 9

q 4) Set the stabilizer onto the stabilizer mount-ing platform and push it as far forward as possible. q 5) Carefully remove both ailerons from the wing. Align the centerline drawn on the top and the rear of

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Figure # 1

Figure # 2

A = A-1

B = B-1

q 6) When you are satisfied with the alignment, hold the stabilizer securely in place with masking tape, but do not glue it in place at this time.

MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

q 7) With the stabilizer held firmly in place, use a pen and draw lines onto the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both the right and left sides on the bottom of the stabilizer.

q 8) Remove the stabilizer from the fuselage. Us-ing the lines you just drew as a guide, carefully remove the covering from between them using a modeling knife. See photo # 10 below.

Photo # 10

When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa may weaken the stabilizer.

q 9) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from the top of the stabilizer mounting sides on the fuselage.

Removing the covering will allow a better bond between the two parts. If the glue joint between the fuselage sides and the stabilizer is not adequate, it could lead to stabilizer failure during flight.

q 10) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mounting area on the bottom of the stabilizer and to the top of the stabilizer mounting sides on the fuselage. Set the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measurements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

INSTALLING THE TRIANGLE STOCK

q 11) Using a modeling knife, remove the cover-ing that overlaps onto the inside edges of the two pieces of triangle stock.

q 12) Working with one piece of triangle stock for now, align it in the joint between the bottom of the stabilizer and the fuselage side. When it's properly aligned, the triangle stock should be centered between the leading edge and trailing edge of the stabilizer. See photo # 11 below.

Photo # 11

the stabilizer with the centerline marks drawn on the fuselage. When those are aligned, hold the stabilizer in that position using masking tape. Align the hori-zontal stabilizer with the wing. When viewed from the rear, the horizontal stabilizer should be level with the wing. If it is not level, use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block and sand down the high side of the stabilizer mounting platform until the proper align-ment is achieved. The tips of the stabilizer should also be equal distance from the tips of the wing. See figures # 1 and # 2 below.

q 13) When satisfied with the alignment, hold the triangle stock in place and draw around it using a pen. q 14) Remove the triangle stock and use a model-ing knife to remove the covermodel-ing from inside the outline you drew.

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VERTICAL STABILIZER

INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

ALIGNING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

q {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges

5

q 1) Remove the rudder from the vertical stabi-lizer and set it aside for now.

q 2) Slide the tab in the back of the vertical sta-bilizer into the precut hole in the horizontal stasta-bilizer. The dorsal fin on the front of the vertical stabilizer should be centered between the fuselage sides and it should be firmly pushed down so there are no gaps present.

q 3) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in place, use a pen and draw a line on each side of it where it meets the top of the horizontal stabilizer. Also draw an outline on top of the fuselage and horizontal stabilizer where they and the dorsal fin meet. q 4) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from below the lines you drew. Also remove the covering from the bottom edge of the stabilizer, the bottom edge of the dorsal fin and between the lines you drew on top of the fuselage and horizontal stabilizer. See photo # 12 below.

Photo # 12

When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa may weaken the stabilizer.

q 5) Set the vertical stabilizer back in place. Us-ing a triangle, check to ensure that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer. See figure # 3 below.

Figure # 3

MOUNTING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

q 6) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mount-ing slot in the horizontal stabilizer and to the sides and bottom of the vertical stabilizer mounting area. Apply epoxy to the bottom edge of the dorsal fin and to the top of the fuselage also. Set the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measure-ments once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alco-hol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

CONTROL SURFACE

INSTALLATION

HINGING THE AILERONS

q 1) The C/A hinges have already been glued into the two ailerons. Working with one aileron at a time, slide the aileron and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure the torque rod is firmly seated into the predrilled hole in the leading edge of the aileron. Slide the aileron in until it is tight against the trailing edge of the wing. The maximum hinge gap should be no more than 1/32”. q 2) When satisfied with the fit, remove the aile-ron. Using a modeling knife, carefully remove any excess covering material that may have overlapped onto the hinges. Be careful not to cut through the hinges!

q 15) Glue the triangle stock into place using a generous amount of Kwik Bond Thick C/A. Allow the glue to cure completely before proceeding.

The triangle stock adds a lot of strength to the joint between the fuselage and stabilizer. It's important that it be glued in securely.

q 16) Repeat steps # 12 - # 15 to install the second piece of triangle stock on the opposite side of the hori-zontal stabilizer.

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q 3) Slide a small piece of waxed paper between the aileron torque rod and the trailing edge of the wing. See photo # 13 below.

The waxed paper will prevent epoxy from glu-ing the torque rod to the trailglu-ing edge of the wglu-ing. q 4) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the aileron torque rod. Use a toothpick and pack epoxy into the predrilled hole in the aileron.

q 5) Slide the aileron and it's hinges into their pre-cut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure the torque rod is firmly seated in the predrilled hole in the aileron.

q 6) With the aileron tight against the wing, ro-tate the aileron down about 45º. Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the wing over and repeat for the other side of the hinges. Allow the glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the aileron may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the aileron up and down about five to ten times to free it up.

q 7) Repeat steps # 1 - # 6 to install the second aileron.

Photo # 13

HINGING THE ELEVATOR

q 8) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove any excess covering material that may have overlapped onto the hinges. Be careful not to cut through the hinges!

q 9) The C/A hinges have already been glued into the elevator. Slide the elevator and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the sta-bilizer. The elevator should fit tight against the trailing edge and the hinge gap should be no more than 1/32”. The tips of the elevator should be even with the tips of the stabilizer.

q 10) When you are satisfied with the fit, hold the elevator tight against the stabilizer and rotate the el-evator down about 45º. Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the fuselage over and repeat for the other side of the hinges. Allow the glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the elevator may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the elevator up and down about five to ten times to free it up.

q 11) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove any excess covering material that may have over-lapped onto the hinges. Be careful not to cut through the hinges!

q 12) The C/A hinges have already been glued into the rudder. Slide the rudder and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer. The rudder should fit tight against the trail-ing edge and the htrail-inge gap should be no more than 1/32”. The tip of the rudder should be even with the tip of the stabilizer.

q 13) When you are satisfied with the fit, hold the rudder tight against the stabilizer and rotate the rud-der to the side about 45º. Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the fuselage over and repeat for the other side of the hinges. Allow the glue to cure for about ten min-utes. Once cured, the rudder may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the rudder back and forth about five to ten times to free it up.

HINGING THE RUDDER

PARTS REQUIRED

MAIN GEAR INSTALLATION

INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WIRES

q {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires q {2} 60mm Diameter Wheels q {2} Nylon Spacers

q {2} Wheel Collars

q {2} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screws q {4} Nylon Landing Gear Straps q {8} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the cover-ing from over the main gear mountcover-ing slot located in the bottom of the fuselage. The slot is located 9” back from the front edge of the firewall. It is 5/16” wide and 3-1/2” long.

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q 2) Insert the 90º bend of each main gear wire into the predrilled holes in the mounting slot. See photo # 14 below.

q 3) The gear wires are held in place using four nylon landing gear straps and eight 3mm x 12mm wood screws. Each strap should be centered over the gear wires and should also be spaced equally between the fuselage sides.

q 4) Using the landing gear straps as a guide, mark the locations of the eight 3mm x 12mm mounting screws onto the fuselage using a pen.

q 5) Remove the straps. Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill eight 1/16” holes into the fuselage to accept the wood screws.

q 6) Install the four nylon landing gear straps us-ing eight 3mm x 12mm wood screws. Tighten the screws completely to secure the landing gear wires in place. See photo # 15 below.

Photo # 14

Photo # 15

INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WHEELS

q 7) Slide one nylon spacer, then one wheel and one wheel collar with set screw onto one axle.

The wheel should be installed with the recessed portion of the rim towards the nylon spacer. q 8) Center the wheel on the axle and tighten the set screw in the wheel collar. Check to make sure the wheel spins free. See photo # 16 at top right.

Photo # 16

q 9) Repeat steps # 7 and # 8 to install the second wheel on the opposite axle.

PARTS REQUIRED

NOSE GEAR INSTALLATION

INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR BRACKET

q {1} Prebent Nose Gear Wire q {1} 60mm Diameter Wheel q {1} Nylon Nose Gear Bracket q {1} Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm q {1} Nylon Spacer

q {2} Wheel Collars

q {3} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screws q {4} 3mm x 18mm Machine Screws q {8} 3mm Flat Washers

q {1} 2mm x 415mm Threaded Wire w/Z-Bend

26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

q 1) Install the nylon nose gear bracket to the bottom of the firewall using the four 3mm x 18mm machine screws, eight 3mm flat washers and four 3mm nylon insert nuts. The holes for the machine screws have already been predrilled in the proper positions. Tighten the screws and nuts completely to secure the bracket in place. See photo # 17 below.

Photo # 17

The nylon nose gear mounting bracket has a molded lip on one end of it. When installing the bracket, make sure the molded lip points towards the bottom of the fuselage.

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INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR WIRE

q 2) Thread one 3mm x 6mm machine screw into the side of the nylon steering arm. Slide the nylon steering arm onto the nose gear wire. Orientate the arm so that the set screw is aligned with the flat spot on the wire. When satisfied with the alignment, tighten the set screw securely. See photo # 18 below.

Photo # 18

Photo # 19

q 4) Slide the nose gear wire into the mounting bracket. Push the nose gear down until it stops.

When installing the nose gear wire, make sure the coil in the wire points toward the back of the fuselage.

q 5) Slide the plain end of the 2mm x 415mm push-rod wire into the slot in the bottom of the fuselage. Look inside the fuselage and feed the wire through the predrilled hole in the forward bulkhead and through the hole in the servo tray support bulkhead.

q 6) Using a pair of pliers, carefully bend the push-rod wire at an angle until the Z-bend lines up with the hole in the nose gear steering arm.

When installing the steering arm, make sure the mounting flange faces the top of the nose gear. q 3) Using a modeling knife, cut a slot in the bot-tom, left side of the fuselage for the steering pushrod wire to exit. The slot should be 1-1/4” long and 1/4” wide. Position the slot 1-1/4” behind the firewall and 1/4” in from the fuselage side. See photo # 19 below.

q 7) Remove the nose gear. With the pushrod wire still in place, connect the Z-bend in the pushrod wire to the predrilled hole in the steering arm. Slide the nose gear wire back into the mounting bracket. Twist the nose gear back and forth. If any binding is present, make a small bend in the pushrod wire where it exits the slot in the fuselage. See photo # 20 below.

Photo # 20

q 8) Push the nose gear wire down until it stops. The steering arm should be pressed firmly against the mounting bracket.

q 9) Thread one 3mm x 6mm machine screw into the side of one wheel collar. With the nose gear wire in place, slide the wheel collar over the top of the gear wire and tighten the machine screw to secure the nose gear wire in place. See photo # 21 below.

Photo # 21

INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR WHEEL

q 10) Slide one nylon spacer, then one wheel and one wheel collar with set screw onto the axle.

The wheel should be installed with the recessed portion of the rim toward the nylon spacer. q 11) Center the wheel on the axle and tighten the set screw in the wheel collar. Check to make sure the wheel spins free.

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PARTS REQUIRED

ENGINE MOUNTING

ALIGNING THE ENGINE

q {4} 3mm x 19mm Machine Screws q {8} 3mm Flat Washers

36 37 38

q 1) Install a 10 x 6 propeller onto your Magnum XL .40ARNV engine. Tighten the prop nut to secure the propeller in place.

q 2) Set the engine onto the hardwood motor mount rails and rotate the propeller so it is horizontal. To properly align the engine, use a ruler and measure from the front of each fuselage side, to the back edge of the propeller. The measurement on the left should be 1/2”. The measurement on the right should be 3/8”. See photo # 22 below.

Photo # 22

If you're using an engine that has a crankcase dimension wider than the width of the hardwood mounting rails, you can remove equal amounts of wood from the inside edge of each rail. Remove small amounts at a time until your engine fits properly, but be careful not to remove too much material. A cop-ing saw, is best to use to do this with, but a sharp modeling knife will work well also.

q 3) When satisfied with the alignment, hold the engine firmly in place and use a pencil to mark the locations of the four mounting holes onto the hard-wood motor mount rails.

q 4) Remove the engine. Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill the four mounting holes through the motor mount. When drilling the holes, make sure you drill them straight down and not at an angle. q 5) Set the engine back in place and double check that the holes in the engine mounting lugs line up with

the holes in the engine mount. Install the engine us-ing four 3mm x 19mm machine screws, eight 3mm flat washers and four 3mm nylon insert nuts. Tighten the screws and nuts completely to secure the engine in place.

q 6) If your engine is equipped with a rear needle valve assembly, install that and the carburetor onto your engine now. You will have to cut a slot in the side of the fuselage to clear the needle valve. Use a modeling knife to do this. See photo # 23 below.

Photo # 23 PARTS REQUIRED

FUEL TANK

STOPPER ASSEMBLY q {1} 240cc Fuel Tank q {3} Aluminum Tubes q {1} Weighted Fuel Pickup q {1} Silicon Fuel Tubing q {1} 17mm Diameter Rear Plate q {1} 20mm Diameter Front Plate q {1} Rubber Stopper q {1} 3mm x 18mm Machine Screw 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

q 1) The fuel tank assembly incudes 3 different length aluminum tubes. Discard the shortest of the three tubes. It will not be used.

The 50mm long tube is used for the fuel line pickup and the 80mm long tube is used for the vent/pressure line. The fuel line pickup goes to the fuel nipple on the carburetor, or rear needle valve, and the vent/pressure line goes to the pressure tap on the muffler.

q 2) Using 220 grit sandpaper carefully smooth each end of the two tubes. This will prevent the fuel line from being accidentally cut when it is installed. q 3) Push the two aluminum tubes through the rub-ber stopper until 1/2” of each tube protrudes from the

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front of the stopper. Slide the 20mm diameter front plate over the tubes at the front of the stopper and slide the 17mm diameter rear plate over the tubes at the rear of the stopper. Insert the 3mm x 18mm ma-chine screw into the center hole in the front plate, then screw it through the stopper and into the back plate. Do not tighten the screw yet.

q 4) Carefully bend the longer of the two tubes up at a 45º angle. This tube is the vent tube. When the stopper assembly is installed in the tank, the top of the vent tube should rest just below the top of the tank. Make a gradual bend, so you don't pinch the tube when you bend it.

q 5) Slide the silicon fuel tubing, with the weighted pickup attached to one end, onto the fuel pickup tube, until the silicon tube touches the rear plate. See photo # 24 below.

Photo # 24

q 6) Test fit the stopper assembly into the molded hole in the front of the tank. If there is any plastic flashing around the tank opening, remove it using a modeling knife. Make sure none falls into the tank. q 7) With the stopper assembly in place, the weighted pickup should move freely inside the tank and the top of the vent tube should rest just below the top of the tank, but not rub against the tank. See photo # 25 below.

INSTALLING THE STOPPER

If the tubes do not fit right, remove the stopper assembly and adjust them before proceeding. q 8) When satisfied with the alignment of the stop-per assembly tighten the 3mm x 18mm machine screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the tank opening. Do not overtighten the assembly as this could cause the tank to split.

Photo # 25

FUEL TANK INSTALLATION

q 9) Using a modeling knife, cut two pieces of sili-con fuel tubing to 12” long. Slide both pieces of tubing through the precut hole in the top of the firewall and into the servo compartment.

q 10) Install the two lengths of silicon fuel tubing onto the vent and fuel pickup tubes at the front of the tank. Use a pen to mark the other ends of the tubes with a P for pressure and a C for carburetor so you remember which one goes where.

q 11) Cut a piece of Dubro foam rubber and wrap it around your receiver battery pack. Use a couple of long pieces of masking tape, wrapped around the pack, to hold the foam in place. See photo # 26 below.

Photo # 26

q 12) Place the battery pack on the fuselage floor, inside the fuel tank compartment. Push it up against the firewall and make sure it is as far away from the steering pushrod as possible.

If you are using a square battery pack it will not fit inside the fuel tank compartment. Therefore, you will need to mount it behind the fuel tank. Be-cause of this you may have to add weight to properly balance the airplane. Don't worry about that until later though.

q 13) Pull on the two fuel lines while guiding the fuel tank in position.

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q 15) Cut pieces of Dubro foam rubber and wedge them between the tank and the fuselage, being care-ful not to interfere with the steering pushrod or the area where the throttle pushrod will be installed. When your done, the fuel tank should fit firmly in place and not move around.

Do not push the fuel tank any farther forward. Doing this will pinch the fuel lines between the tank and the firewall, causing fuel flow problems later on. To double check the lines, carefully blow through one of them. You should hear and feel air coming out of the other tube.

When installing the fuel tank, make sure the top of the tank is facing the top of the fuselage. q 14) When properly aligned, the front portion of the fuel tank should rest on top of the battery pack and the back edge of the tank should be about 3/8” past the forward bulkhead. See photo # 27 below.

Photo # 27

PARTS REQUIRED

SERVO INSTALLATION

INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVOS

q {1} Plywood Aileron Servo Tray

q {2} Hardwood Aileron Servo Tray Blocks

17 18

q 1) Locate the three servos you intend to use for the elevator, rudder/steering and throttle controls. In-stall the four rubber grommets and four brass collets onto each of the servos. The brass collets should be installed with the flanges facing the bottom of the servo mounting tabs. See figure # 4 below.

q 2) Position the servos into the preinstalled servo tray making sure you run the servo wires out the pre-cut hole in the forward servo tray bulkhead. Note the position of each of the servo output shafts. They should face the directions shown. See photo # 28 below.

Figure # 4

Photo # 28

To make it easier, position the two rear servos first, then run those wires out the precut hole. After that you can position and run the lead out of the precut hole for the forward servo.

q 3) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill pilot holes through the servo tray for each of the mounting screws. In-stall the servos using the mounting screws provided with each servo. Tighten the screws firmly to hold the servos in place.

Drilling pilot holes through the servo tray will make it easier to install the mounting screws.

INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVO TRAY

q 4) Using a modeling knife, cut a shallow "V" shape into the bottom of each of the two hardwood blocks. The blocks are 1” wide and 7/8” tall. Cut the "V" shape on the tall side. See photo # 29 below.

Photo # 29

Be careful not to remove too much material at this time. You will double check the fit in the next step.

q 5) Test fit the two hardwood blocks into the precut aileron servo hole in the bottom of the wing. Each block should fit firmly between the sides of the

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Photo # 30

Because this fit will be different on every air-plane, you may need to lightly sand the sides of the blocks so they will fit properly.

q 6) When satisfied with their fit, remove the two blocks. Using Kwik Bond Thick C/A, glue the two hardwood blocks to one side of the plywood aileron servo tray. One block should be glued flush with the outer edge of the tray and the second block should be glued flush with inside edge of the servo cutout. Both blocks should be centered between the sides of the tray. See photo # 31 below.

hole and the "V" shape should match the angle of the top wing sheeting. See photo # 30 below.

Photo # 31

q 7) Test fit the aileron servo tray assembly into the wing. The portion of the tray that overhangs the hardwood block should face the trailing edge of the wing and the whole assembly should be pushed down firmly into the hole. See photo # 32 below.

Photo # 32

q 8) When satisfied with the fit, remove the servo tray assembly. Mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the gluing surfaces of each of the two hardwood blocks. Reinstall the servo tray assembly and align it as done previously. Any excess epoxy can be removed using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVO

q 9) Locate the servo you intend to use for aile-ron control. Install the four rubber grommets and four brass collets onto the servo. The brass collets should be installed with the flanges facing the bottom of the servo mounting tabs. See figure # 5 below.

q 10) Position the servo into the servo tray mak-ing sure you run the servo wire out between the tray and the wing. Note the position of the servo output shaft. It should face the leading edge of the wing. See photo # 33 below.

Figure # 5

Photo # 33

q 11) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill pilot holes through the servo tray for each of the mounting screws. Install the servo using the mounting screws provided with the servo. Tighten the screws firmly to hold the servo in place.

Drilling pilot holes through the servo tray will make it easier to install the mounting screws. Be careful not to drill through the top of the wing.

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PARTS REQUIRED

THROTTLE PUSHROD

INSTALLING THE PUSHROD WIRE

q {1} 2mm x 415mm Threaded Wire w/Z-Bend q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector

41 48

q 1) Slide the plain end of the pushrod wire through the predrilled hole in the firewall, directly behind the throttle arm, through the hole in the for-ward bulkhead and through the hole in the forfor-ward servo tray support bulkhead.

q 2) Remove the throttle arm from the engine and attach the Z-Bend to the hole farthest out in the throttle arm. Reattach the throttle arm to the engine. See photo # 34 below.

Photo # 34

The hole in your throttle arm may be too small for the pushrod wire to fit through. If it is, drill out the hole using a 5/64” drill bit.

INSTALLING THE SERVO CONNECTOR

q 3) Locate a plastic servo arm that came with your servo. Using wire cutters, remove all but one of the arms.

q 4) Install one adjustable servo connector through the third hole out from the center of the arm. You will have to enlarge the hole in the servo arm using a 5/64” drill bit so the servo connector will fit. When you thread the nut on, don't tighten it com-pletely. You don't want the connector loose, but you do want it to be able to rotate without binding too much. See figure # 6 below.

Figure # 6

After installing the adjustable servo connector apply a small drop of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the nut. This will prevent the connector from loosen-ing durloosen-ing flight.

q 5) Plug the throttle servo lead into your receiver and turn on the radio system (please refer to your radio system manual for complete instructions about connecting your system).

q 6) Check to ensure that the throttle servo output shaft is moving in the correct direction. When the throttle stick is moved forward from idle to full throttle, the servo should rotate counterclockwise.

q 7) Slide the adjustable servo connector/servo arm assembly over the plain end of the pushrod wire. Position the throttle stick and the throttle trim at their lowest positions.

q 8) Manually push the carburetor barrel fully closed. Angle the servo arm about 45º back from center and attach the servo arm to the servo. The servo arm should be pointing toward the fuselage side. With the carburetor barrel fully closed, tighten the set screw in the adjustable servo connector. q 9) Remove the excess throttle pushrod wire us-ing wire cutters and install the servo arm retainus-ing screw. See photo # 35 below.

Photo # 35

ADJUSTING THE THROTTLE LINKAGE

q 10) When your throttle linkage is adjusted prop-erly, the carburetor barrel should be fully closed when the throttle stick and the throttle trim lever are at their lowest positions. Moving the throttle trim up should open the carburetor barrel about 25% - 30%. Mov-ing the throttle stick all the way forward should open the throttle barrel completely. All of these movements should be done without any binding in the linkage. Sometimes the servo will bind at either the fully closed and/or fully open throttle positions. If this happens,

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and your radio is equipped with digital or manual end point adjustments, make those adjustments using the transmitter features (see your radio instruction manual for further details). If your radio does not have these functions you can still adjust the linkage. For more linkage travel, move the adjustable servo connector to a hole farther out from the center of the servo arm. For less travel, move the connector to a hole closer to the center of the servo arm. Ideally, you don't want the servo to bind while at idle or full throttle. This will cause excessive strain on the servo and will also cause excessive drain on the battery pack.

PARTS REQUIRED

ELEVATOR PUSHROD

INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORN

q {1} 2mm x 590mm Threaded Wire w/L-Bend q {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate q {2} 2mm x 16mm Machine Screws q {1} Nylon Clevis

q {1} Nylon Snap Keeper

43 44 45 46 47

q 1) Position the nylon control horn on the bot-tom, right side of the elevator. The centerline of the control horn should be 5/16” out from the fuselage side, at the hinge line. Position the control horn so the clevis attachment holes are directly over the hinge line. See photo # 36 below.

Photo # 36

q 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a 5/64” drill bit, and the control horn as a guide, and drill the two mounting holes through the elevator. q 3) Mount the control horn to the elevator by in-serting two 2mm x 16mm machine screws through the control horn mounting base, through the elevator and into the backplate. Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten them. Be careful not to crush the wood.

q 4) Using a modeling knife, remove the cover-ing from over the elevator pushrod exit hole in the rear of the fuselage. The hole is located on the right side of the fuselage, 2-1/4” in front of the back edge of the fuselage and 7/8” up from the bottom of the fuselage.

q 5) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut off the excess nylon pushrod housing 1/8” in front of the balsa support block. See photo # 37 below.

INSTALLING THE PUSHROD

Photo # 37

q 6) Locate a plastic servo arm that came with your servo. Using wire cutters, remove all but one of the arms.

q 7) Using a 5/64” drill bit, enlarge the second hole out from the center of the servo arm. Insert the L-bend in the 2mm x 590mm pushrod wire down through the hole. Place a nylon snap keeper over the wire to hold it securely to the servo arm. See figure # 7 below.

Figure # 7

q 8) Plug the elevator servo lead into your receiver and turn on the radio system. Center the elevator trim lever on your transmitter.

q 9) Slide the threaded end of the 2mm x 590mm pushrod wire into the nylon pushrod housing, from inside the servo compartment, until the threaded por-tion exits the back of the fuselage.

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q 10) Attach the servo arm to the servo. The servo arm should be centered on the servo and point toward the middle of the fuselage. Install the servo arm re-taining screw. See photo # 38 below.

Photo # 38

q 11) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the elevator centered.

q 12) Using a modeling knife, cut a piece of fuel tubing to 1/4” long. Slide the length of fuel tubing over the threaded end of the pushrod wire.

q 13) Thread one nylon clevis onto the threaded end of the wire until the pin in the clevis lines up with the holes in the control horn. Use a pair of pliers to help hold the wire and keep it from turning.

q 14) Snap the clevis into the outermost hole in the control horn and slide the piece of tubing up over the clevis to secure it in place. See photo # 39 below.

Photo # 39

q 15) Remove the masking tape from the elevator and double check that both the servo arm and the elevator are still centered.

PARTS REQUIRED

RUDDER PUSHROD

INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORN

q {1} 2mm x 530mm Threaded Wire w/L-Bend q {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate q {2} 2mm x 16mm Machine Screws q {1} Nylon Clevis

q {1} Nylon Snap Keeper

q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector

42 44 45 46 47 48

ADJUSTING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD

q 16) With your radio system still plugged in and turned on, check the elevator control surface direc-tion and amount of deflecdirec-tion. Pull back on the elevator control stick. The elevator should move up. If it doesn't, move the servo reversing switch on your transmitter. This will change the direction (refer to your radio instructions for more information on this function).

q 17) Pull back completely on the elevator con-trol stick. Using a ruler, measure the amount the trailing edge of the elevator moves up. This mea-surement should be 5/16”. See figure # 8 below.

Figure # 8

q 18) If the control surface deflection is more or less than 5/16” it must be changed. If your radio is equipped with digital or manual end point adjustments, make those adjustments using the transmitter. If your radio does not have this feature, you can adjust the clevis and the servo arm. If the elevator is moving more than 5/16” you can move the pushrod in one hole toward the center of the servo arm. If the elevator is moving less than 5/16” you can move the clevis one hole closer to the elevator. When adjusted properly, the elevator should move 5/16” both up and down.

As a rule, if you move the clevis, at the control surface, closer to the control surface, this will increase the amount of control deflection. If you move it farther away, it will decrease the amount of deflec-tion. If you move the pushrod at the servo arm closer to the center of the arm, it will decrease the amount of control deflection. If you move it farther away from the center, it will increase the amount of control deflection.

q 1) Position the nylon control horn on the left side of the rudder, 1/2” up from the top of the hori-zontal stabilizer. Position the control horn so the

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clevis attachment holes are directly over the hinge line. Also make sure the control horn is parallel with the bottom of the rudder. See photo # 40 below.

Photo # 40

q 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a 5/64” drill bit, and the control horn as a guide, and drill the two mounting holes through the rudder. q 3) Mount the control horn to the rudder by in-serting two 2mm x 16mm machine screws through the control horn mounting base, through the rudder and into the backplate. Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten them. Be careful not to crush the wood.

q 4) Using a modeling knife, remove the cover-ing from over the rudder pushrod exit hole in the top of the fuselage. The hole is located on the top of the fuselage, to the left of the dorsal fin. It is 1-1/2” in front of the leading edge of the stabilizer and 5/16” in from the fuselage side.

q 5) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut off the excess nylon pushrod housing 1/8” in front of the balsa support block.

q 6) Locate a plastic servo arm that came with your servo. Using wire cutters, remove all but two of the arms. See figure # 9 below.

INSTALLING THE PUSHROD

Photo # 41 Figure # 9

q 7) Install one adjustable servo connector through the third hole out from the center of one side of the arm. You will have to enlarge the hole in

the servo arm using a 5/64” drill bit so the servo connector will fit. When you thread on the nut, don't tighten it completely. You don't want the connector loose, but you do want it to be able to rotate without binding too much.

After installing the adjustable servo connector apply a small drop of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the nut. This will prevent the connector from loosen-ing durloosen-ing flight.

q 8) Using a 5/64” drill bit, enlarge the second hole out from the center of the opposite side of the servo arm. Insert the L-bend in the 2mm x 530mm pushrod wire down through the hole. Place a nylon snap keeper over the wire to hold it securely to the servo arm. See figure # 10 below.

Figure # 10

q 9) Plug the rudder servo lead into your receiver and turn on the radio system. Center the rudder trim lever on your transmitter.

q 10) Slide the threaded end of the 2mm x 530mm pushrod wire into the nylon pushrod housing, from inside the servo compartment, until the threaded por-tion exits the top of the fuselage.

q 11) Slide the adjustable servo connector over the end of the steering pushrod. Attach the servo arm to the servo. The servo arm should be centered on the servo. Install the servo arm retaining screw. See photo # 41 below.

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q 12) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the rudder centered.

q 13) Using a modeling knife, cut a piece of fuel tubing to 1/4” long. Slide the length of fuel tubing over the threaded end of the pushrod wire.

q 14) Thread one nylon clevis onto the threaded end of the wire until the pin in the clevis lines up with the holes in the control horn. Use a pair of pliers to help hold the wire and keep it from turning.

q 15) Snap the clevis into the second hole out from the base of the control horn and slide the piece of tubing up over the clevis to secure it in place. See photo # 42 below.

Photo # 42

q 16) Center the nose gear wire. With the servo arm still centered, tighten the set screw in the adjust-able servo connector. Remove the excess steering pushrod wire using wire cutters.

ADJUSTING THE RUDDER PUSHROD

q 17) With your radio system still plugged in and turned on, check the rudder control surface direction and amount of deflection in both the rudder and the nose gear. Push the rudder control stick all the way to the right. Both the rudder and the nose gear should move to the right. If they don't, move the servo re-versing switch on your transmitter. This will change the direction (refer to your radio instructions for more information on this function).

q 18) Push the rudder control stick all the way to the right. Using a ruler, measure the amount the trail-ing edge of the rudder moves right. This measurement should be 5/8”. Measure the amount the nose gear turns also. This measurement should be about 1/2” or less.

q 19) If the rudder control surface deflection is more or less than 5/8” it must be changed. If your radio is equipped with digital or manual end point

adjustments, make those adjustments using the trans-mitter. If your radio does not have this feature, you can adjust the clevis and servo arm. If the rudder is moving more than 5/8” you can move the pushrod in one hole toward the center of the servo arm. If the rudder is moving less than 5/8” you can move the clevis one hole closer to the rudder. When adjusted properly, the rudder should move 5/8” both right and left. The same goes for the nose gear steering. You want the nose gear to turn no more than 1/2” in each direction. If it turns any more than that, the airplane will be difficult to control on the ground. You can adjust the amount of steering movement by moving the adjustable connector in or out on the servo arm.

As a rule, if you move the clevis, at the control surface, closer to the control surface, this will increase the amount of control deflection. If you move it farther away, it will decrease the amount of deflec-tion. If you move the pushrod at the servo arm closer to the center of the arm, it will decrease the amount of control deflection. If you move it farther away from the center, it will increase the amount of control deflection.

PARTS REQUIRED

AILERON LINKAGE

INSTALLING THE AILERON LINKAGE

q {2} 2mm x 95mm Threaded Wires w/L-Bends q {2} Nylon Clevises

q {2} Nylon Snap Keepers

40 46 47

q 1) The two nylon adjustable control horns have already been partially threaded onto the aileron torque rods. Thread them into their final position. They should be flush with the tops of the torque rods. See figure # 11 below.

Figure # 11

q 2) Locate a large plastic servo arm that came with your servo. Each arm should have a minumum of four holes. Using wire cutters, remove all but two of the arms (similar to the rudder servo arm).

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q 3) Using a 5/64” drill bit, enlarge the fourth hole out from the center of each side of the servo arm. Insert the L-bends in the 2mm x 95mm pushrod wires down through the holes. Place a nylon snap keeper over each wire to hold them securely to the servo arm. q 4) Plug the aileron servo lead into your receiver and turn on the radio system. Center the aileron trim lever on your transmitter.

q 5) Attach the servo arm to the servo. The servo arm should be centered on the servo. Install the servo arm retaining screw. See photo # 43 below.

Photo # 43

q 6) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the ailerons centered.

q 7) Using a modeling knife, cut two pieces of fuel tubing to 1/4” long. Slide the one length of fuel tub-ing over the threaded end of each pushrod wire. q 8) Thread one nylon clevis onto the threaded end of each wire until the pin in the clevises lines up with the hole in the adjustable control horns. Use a pair of pliers to help hold the wires and keep them from turning.

q 9) Snap the clevises to the control horns and slide the tubing up over the clevises to secure them in place. See photo # 44 below.

Photo # 44

ADJUSTING THE AILERON LINKAGE

q 10) With your radio system still plugged in and turned on, check the aileron control surface direction and amount of deflection in each aileron. Push the aileron control stick all the way to the right. The aile-ron on the right wing half should move up and the aileron on the left wing half should move down (look-ing from the back of the w(look-ing with the w(look-ing right side up). If they don't, move the servo reversing switch on your transmitter. This will change the direction (refer to your radio instructions for more information on this function).

q 11) Push the aileron control stick all the way to the right. Using a ruler, measure the amount the trail-ing edge of each aileron moves. This measurement should be 3/16”.

q 12) If the aileron control surface deflection is more or less than 3/16” it must be changed. If your radio is equipped with digital or manual end point adjustments, make those adjustments using the trans-mitter. If your radio does not have this feature, you can adjust the control horns and servo arm. If the ailerons are moving more than 3/16” you can move the pushrods in one hole toward the center of the servo arm. If the ailerons are moving less than 3/16” you can thread the adjustable connectors down further. When adjusted properly, both ailerons should move 3/16” up and down.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

INSTALLING THE FUEL LINES

q 1) Using a modeling knife, cut each of the two fuel lines to the correct length and attach them to the engine. The vent/pressure line connects to the pres-sure nipple on the muffler. The fuel pickup line connects to the fuel nipple on the carburetor (or rear needle valve assembly). See photo # 45 below.

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q 2) To fill the fuel tank, remove the fuel lines from both the carburetor and the muffler. Fill through the fuel pickup line and watch for excess fuel coming from the vent line. When fuel begins to come out of the vent line, the fuel tank is full. Reattach the fuel lines to their proper positions.

INSTALLING THE SWITCH

q 3) The switch should be mounted on the left side of the fuselage, in the forward section of the servo compartment. Use the faceplate of the switch itself to locate and mark the switch cutout and mounting holes.

q 4) Cut out the switch hole using a modeling knife. Use a 5/64” drill bit and drill the two mount-ing holes through the fuselage side.

q 5) Secure the switch in place using the two ma-chine screws provided with the switch. Do not overtighten the screws. You don't want to crush the wood. See photo # 46 below.

Photo # 46

INSTALLING THE RECEIVER

q 6) Plug the three servo leads and the switch lead into the receiver. Plug the battery pack lead into the switch lead. We also recommend installing an aile-ron extension lead into the receiver.

An aileron extension lead will make it easier to plug the aileron servo lead in once the receiver has been installed.

q 7) Wrap the receiver in Dubro foam rubber. Use a couple of lengths of masking tape to secure the foam in place, just as you did with the battery pack.

Do not wrap the receiver to tight. You want to be careful not to crush the servo wires as they come out the top of the receiver.

q 8) The receiver is mounted directly behind the fuel tank. Using a 5/64” drill bit, drill a hole in the left side of the fuselage, about 1/2” behind the fuel tank.

q 9) Unwrap the receiver antenna and feed it out through the hole in the side of the fuselage. Use a strip of Velcro to secure the receiver to the fuselage floor, just behind the fuel tank. Make sure the an-tenna is not coiled around itself or the steering pushrod. See photo # 47 below.

Photo # 47

q 10) Secure the antenna to the vertical stabilizer using a rubber band, push pin and a modified servo arm. Make sure the antenna is not pulled too tight and that it runs underneath the rear wing hold down dowel. See photo # 48 below.

Photo # 48

Do not cut off the excess antenna. Leave the excess hang behind the airplane. Cutting the antenna will greatly reduce the range of the receiver and could cause you to lose control of your airplane.

INSTALLING THE PROPELLER

q 11) Place a 10 x 6 propeller onto the crankshaft of the engine. To secure the propeller in place, and make it easier to start your engine with a hand-held electric starter, use a Magnum 1/4” chrome spinner nut. A thin shank screwdriver should be used to tighten the spinner nut securely.

Model Plane

I N S T R U C T I O N S F O R F I N A L A S S E M B L Y

TABLE OF CONTENTS

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Global Hobby Distributors Customer Care

INTRODUCTION

KIT CONTENTS

METRIC CONVERSION CHART

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = MM

FULL SIZE HARDWARE DRAWINGS

IMPORTANT We have included a glossary of terms beginning on page # 31. Use this glossary if you

come across a term that is unfamiliar.

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED

FIELD SUPPORT EQUIPMENT NEEDED

WING ASSEMBLY

WING MOUNTING

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

INSTALLATION

VERTICAL STABILIZER

INSTALLATION

CONTROL SURFACE

INSTALLATION

MAIN GEAR INSTALLATION

NOSE GEAR INSTALLATION

ENGINE MOUNTING

FUEL TANK

SERVO INSTALLATION

THROTTLE PUSHROD

ELEVATOR PUSHROD

RUDDER PUSHROD

AILERON LINKAGE

FINAL ASSEMBLY