1804 Hyacinth Bralette Expansion Pack

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1804 Hyacinth Bralette Expansion Pack

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The Hyacinth Bralette Expansion Pack allows you to sew the classic Hyacinth Bralette using an assortment of lace overlays and bra back variations. Mix and match your favourites to create your own one-of-a-kind bralette.

Suggested Fabrics:

Refer to Hyacinth Bralette Pattern for the recommended bralette fabrics. Requirements below are to be purchased in addition to the fabrics and notions outlined in the Hyacinth Bralette Pattern.

View E, F, B, G: Scalloped stretch lace trim.

Notions:

Refer to Hyacinth Bralette Pattern for the recommended bralette notions. Requirements below are to be purchased in addition to the fabrics and notions outlined in the Hyacinth Bralette Pattern.

View B, G, C: 2 bra sliders, 1 o-ring.

View D: 2 bra sliders, 2 o-rings.

View H: 5 bra sliders, 8 o-rings.

Bust Waist Hips

2X Small 32-33” (81-84cm) 22-23” (56-59cm) 31-32” (79-81cm) 1X Small 34-35” (86-89cm) 24-25” (61-64cm) 33-34” (84-86cm) Small 36-37” (91-94cm) 26-27” (66-69cm) 35-36” (89-91cm) Medium 38-39” (96-99cm) 28-29” (71-74cm) 37-38” (94-97cm) Large 40-41” (101-104cm) 30-31”(76-79cm) 39-40” (99-102cm) 1X Large 42-43” (106-109cm) 32-33” (81-84cm) 41-42” (104-107cm) 2X Large 44-45” (111-115cm) 34-35” (86-89cm) 43-44” (109-112cm) 3X Large 46-47” (117cm-119cm) 36-37” (91-94cm) 45-46” (114-117cm)

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1804 Hyacinth Bralette Expansion Pack

2 View A, E F 2X Small 1X Small Small Medium Large 1X Large 2X Large 3X Large

Additional Fold Over Elastic

1/3 yards

(0.3m) 1/3 yards

(0.3m) 3/8 yards

(0.35m) 3/8 yards

(0.35m) ½ yards

(0.4m) ½ yards

(0.5m) ½ yards

(0.5m)

View E Scalloped

Lace**

5/8 yards

(0.5m) 5/8 yards

(0.55m) 5/8 yards

(0.55m) 2/3 yards

(0.6m) 2/3 yards

(0.6m) ¾ yards

(0.65m) ¾ yards

(0.65m) View F

Scalloped Lace***

5/8 yards

(0.5m) 5/8 yards

(0.5m) View B, G

Scalloped Lace****

¾ yards

(0.65m) ¾ yards

(0.65m) 7/8 yards

(0.75m) 7/8 yards

(0.75m)

¼” elastic ^5/8 ^yard

(0.6m) 5/8 yard

(0.6m) 2/3 yards

(0.6m) View G

5/8 yards

(0.55m) 5/8 yard

(0.6m) 2/3 yards

(0.6m) View C

¼ yard

(0.15m) ¼ yard (0.2m) ¼ yard

(0.2m) ¼ yard

(0.25m) ¼ yard

(0.25m) 1/3 yard

(0.3m) 1/3 yard

(0.3m) View D

5/8 yard

(0.6m) 5/8 yard

(0.6m) 2/3 yards

(0.65m) ¾ yards

(0.7m) ¾ yards

(0.7m) View B, C, D, G

Strap Elastic 1 yard (0.9m) 1 yard (0.9m) 1 yard

(0.9m) 1 yard

(0.9m) 1 yard (0.9m) 1 yard (0.9m) View H

Strap Elastic 2 2/3 yards

(2.4m) 2 2/3 yards

(2.4m) 2 2/3

yards (2.4m)

2 2/3 yards

(2.4m) 2 2/3 yards

(2.4m) 2 2/3 yards (2.4m)

*Where fabric measurements say “additional,” add this amount to the required yardage in the Hyacinth Bralette Pattern.

**Minimum 6” (15cm) lace width

*** Minimum 3” (7.5cm) lace width

**** Minimum 6” (15cm) lace width for View B and 4” (10cm) lace width for View G

©Ohhh Lulu, 2018. Ohhh Lulu Patterns are for personal use only and are not to be used for commercial production on any scale. Garments made from this pattern cannot be sold as your own design. No Part of this pattern is to be re-sold or reproduced in any format.

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T ABLE OF C ONTENTS

DESIGN NOTES 4

PRINTING & ASSEMBLING YOUR PDF PATTERN 5

TIPS FOR CUTTING SCALLOPED LACE 6

PREPARING AND ATTACHING THE LACE OVERLAY VIEW E 7

PREPARING AND SEWING THE LACE OVERLAY VIEW F 8

FINISHING THE NECKLINE WITH FOLD OVER ELASTIC 9

PREPARING THE LACE RACERBACK VIEWS B&G 10

V

IEW

B 10

V

IEW

G 11

SIDE SEAMS AND BAND FINISHING VIEWS B,C,D&G 13

ELASTIC FINISHING FOR RACERBACK VIEW C 16

PREPARING AND ATTACHING THE STRAPS FOR VIEWS B,C&G 17 ELASTIC, STRAPS & KEYHOLE FINISHING FOR RACERBACK VIEW D 18

ASSEMBLY AND ELASTIC FINISHING FOR VIEW H 20

SEWING THE ADJUSTABLE STRAP BACK AND ATTACHING SHOULDER STRAPS VIEW H 21

A ROUND OF APPLAUSE 25

GLOSSARY 26

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D ESIGN N OTES

Customize your very own Hyacinth Bralette with the option of lace overlays and racerback styles.

From pretty lace motifs to seductive strapping, create a customizable fit even you can’t resist!

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P RINTING & A SSEMBLING Y OUR PDF P ATTERN

1. For best results, open and print your file using Adobe Reader (available here https://get.adobe.com/reader/ ).

2. Print Pattern on US Letter or A4 Paper (if using A4, select “US Letter” Page Size in your Print Options/Advanced Options). Before you print, make sure you have selected “no scaling”

or print “actual Size.

3. Trim off the margins that have the scissor symbols and tape pages together using the alphanumeric indicators as a guide.

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T IPS FOR CUTTING S CALLOPED L ACE

When cutting out two pieces of scalloped stretch lace, it is important that the scallops and motifs are a perfect mirror image of one another. To do this, begin by cutting 1 of your stretch lace pattern piece out of lace. Flip that piece over so that the right sides of the lace are facing each other. Line up the scallops and motif so that each piece will be identical. Use your already cut out piece as your template to cut your second piece of lace. You will now have two perfectly mirrored lace pieces!

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P REPARING AND A TTACHING THE L ACE O VERLAY V IEW E

1. Cut out two pieces of mirrored lace using the appropriate pattern pieces.

2. With right side of the lace facing up, pin the wrong side of the lace to the right side of the Bralette Front.

3. Using a zigzag stitch, carefully stitch around the perimeter of the lace overlay. Slowly stitch around each scallop to securely anchor the lace overlay in place.

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P REPARING AND S EWING THE L ACE O VERLAY V IEW F

1. Cut out two pieces of mirrored lace using the appropriate pattern pieces.

2. With the right sides of the lace pieces’ together, stitch down the straight seam. Trim seam allowance back to about ¼” (6mm) and press seam allowance open.

3. If you haven’t done so already, fold the Bralette Front in half and make a small notch at the centre front neckline. Place the lace overlay on top of the Bralette Front so that the seam lines up with the centre front notch. Pin in place and use a zigzag stitch to carefully stitch around the scallops.

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F INISHING THE N ECKLINE WITH F OLD O VER E LASTIC

1. Working on the wrong side of the fabric, use a zigzag stitch to attach fold over elastic along the curved neckline edge. Gently pull on the elastic as you stitch it on to create a slight amount of tension. This keeps the bra snug and prevents gaping.

2. If necessary, trim back any fabric that extends beyond the foldline of the elastic. Fold the elastic along the fold line and topstitch in place using a zigzag stitch.

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P REPARING THE L ACE R ACERBACK V IEWS B&G

V

^IEW

B

1. Working on the wrong side of the lace, use a multistep zigzag stitch to sew elastic along the scalloped edge of the lace. This elastic is meant to stabilize the edge.

2. With the right sides together, stitch the lace down the straight centre back seam. Finish with a serger or zigzag stitch.

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11 3. Align the centre back seam in the lace with the centre back point of the Bralette Back

and baste together along the lower edge.

V

IEW

G

1. Working on the wrong side of the lace, use a multistep zigzag stitch to sew elastic along the scalloped edge of the lace. This elastic is meant to stabilize the edge.

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1804 Hyacinth Bralette Expansion Pack

12 2. Use a zigzag stitch to apply fold over elastic to the wrong side of the lace. Similar to the previous step, this elastic is meant to provide some stability to the edge. Apply just a small amount of tension here.

3. Trim back any excess lace that extends beyond the fold line of the elastic. Fold elastic down foldline and use a zigzag stitch to topstitch in place.

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1804 Hyacinth Bralette Expansion Pack

13 4. Using the notches as a guide, pin the lace to the Bralette Back and baste along the lower

edge.

S IDE S EAMS AND B AND F INISHING V IEWS B,C,D&G

1. With the right sides of the fabric together, sew one side seam closed, as per pattern instructions.

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14 2. Starting at the remaining open seam, use a zigzag stitch to apply band elastic along the lower edge of the bra. The band elastic should be placed against the right side of the fabric, with the plush side facing up and the decorative edge pointing towards the top of the garment. Pull on the elastic as you stitch it on. As you approach the curved portion of the lower edge of the Bralette Front, pull a little tighter to create a small amount of contouring for the bust.

3. Trim back any excess fabric that extends beyond the zigzag stitching line. Pin the remaining side seam closed, carefully line up the elastic evenly so that it looks continuous when sewn. Finish the seam allowance with a serger or zigzag stitch.

4. Turn the elastic under towards the inside of the garment. Use a multistep zigzag stitch to topstitch in place. Stitch over the lace racerback portion.

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15 5. Fold the lace racerback pieces down, and use a zigzag stitch to attach fold over elastic around the remaining upper edge of the bralette. Remember to leave a 1” tail extending beyond either edge of the Bralette Front.

6. Trim back any fabric that extends beyond your zigzag stitching. Fold the elastic along foldline and use a zigzag stitch to topstitch in place.

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E LASTIC F INISHING FOR R ACERBACK V IEW C

1. Prepare bralette as per the Hyacinth Sewing Pattern Instructions, until the step, “Finishing the Upper Edge with Fold Over Elastic.”

2. Beginning at the front of the bra, working on the wrong side of the bralette, use a zigzag stitch to apply elastic along the upper edge. Leave a 1” (2.5cm) tail of elastic extending beyond the front neckline edge of the bra. Gently pull on the elastic as you stitch it on to create a snug fit. Sew all the way to the pointed end of the racerback and cut the elastic.

Begin a new strip of elastic along the opposite side in the same manner, again leaving a 1” (2.5cm) tail extending beyond the front neckline edge.

3. Trim back any excess fabric that extends beyond the foldline. Fold elastic and use a zigzag stitch to topstitch in place.

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P REPARING AND A TTACHING THE S TRAPS FOR V IEWS B,C&G

7. Cut two 17” (43cm) lengths of elastic. Attach a slider to one end of each strap. Feed both straps through one o-ring.

8. Attach straps to front of bralette at each fold over elastic ‘tail,’ following the instructions provided in the Hyacinth Bralette sewing pattern.

9. Feed the top point of the lace racerback pieces through the o-ring. Fold under by approximately ½” and secure in place using a tight zigzag stitch, backtacking at the beginning and end of your stitching.

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E LASTIC , S TRAPS & K EYHOLE F INISHING FOR R ACERBACK V IEW D

1. Working on the wrong side of your fabric, use a zigzag stitch to begin applying fold over elastic around the keyhole cut-out. Gently ease the elastic around the curve of the cut- out, being careful not to create any puckers or gathers. Trim back any excess fabric as close to your zigzag stitching as you can. Fold the elastic along the foldline and use a zigzag stitch to topstitch in place.

2. Leaving a 1” (2.5cm) tail of elastic extending beyond the finished front neckline of the bralette, begin zigzag stitching the fold over elastic around the upper edge of the bra.

Gently pull on the elastic as you stitch it on to create a snug fit. When you reach the centre back point, cut the elastic and begin again down the opposite side. Remember to leave a 1” (2.5cm) tail of elastic extending beyond the front neckline.

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1804 Hyacinth Bralette Expansion Pack

19 3. Cut two 17” lengths of strap elastic. Using the instructions provided in the Hyacinth

Bralette Sewing Pattern, prepare two adjustable straps. Attach them to the front of the bra as outlined in the original pattern.

4. Feed the end of the left racerback extension through the right strap o-ring and vice versa so that the straps criss-cross at the back. Use a tight zigzag stitch to secure each strap in place.

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A SSEMBLY AND E LASTIC F INISHING FOR V IEW H

1. Finish front neckline with either lace or fold over elastic as outlined in the pattern.

2. Stitch side seams using a ½” seam allowance, finishing with either a serger or a zigzag stitch.

3. Using a zigzag stitch, apply fold over elastic along the upper edge of the bralette, leaving a 1” (2.5cm) tail of elastic extending beyond the finished front neckline. Trim back any excess fabric that may extend beyond the foldline of the elastic. Fold elastic along the foldline and use a zigzag stitch to topstitch in place.

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21 4. Place band elastic against the right side of the bra, with the plush side of the elastic facing up. The decorative edge should be pointed up, towards the top of the bra and the plain edge running along the raw edge of the fabric. Use a zigzag stitch to attach the elastic along the lower edge of the bra. Pull on the elastic as you stitch it in place. This creates a snug fit under the bust. As you approach the curved portion of the band edge, pull the elastic a little tighter – this creates some gentle contouring. Trim back any excess fabric that extends beyond the stitching line.

S EWING THE A DJUSTABLE S TRAP B ACK AND A TTACHING S HOULDER

S TRAPS V IEW H

1. Cut the following lengths of elastic:

a. 8 x 3” (7.5cm) lengths b. 3 x 9” (23cm) lengths

c. 2 x 20” (50cm) lengths (shoulder straps)

2. Sew a slider onto one end of each of the three 9” (23cm) lengths. Feed the loose end through a ring then back up and through the slider to make the adjustable strap. Feed the loose end through a new ring and fold elastic under by approximately ½” (13mm) and use a tight zigzag stitch to anchor in place. Feed one of the 3” (7.5cm) lengths of elastic through each ring, folding in half and basting in place.

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22 3. Pin the straps against the bralette back. The top strap should line up with the folded

edge of the fold over elastic, the bottom strap should sit just above the band elastic, and the middle elastic should be placed equidistant between the top and bottom straps.

Stitch in place using a ½” seam allowance. Repeat on the opposite side.

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23 4. You may wish to finish the edge with a serger or zigzag stitch. Turn the back seam under

by ½” and topstitch using a straight stitch.

5. Turn the band elastic under towards the inside of the garment and use a multistep zigzag stitch to topstitch in place, being sure to backtack securely at the beginning and end of your stitching line.

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24 6. Using your two remaining 20” and 3” lengths of elastic, assemble two adjustable straps

following the instructions in the Hyacinth Sewing Pattern. The 3” lengths become the tabs that get fastened to the back of the bra. Attach the straps to the front of the bra as per the pattern instructions.

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25 7. Pin the back of the straps to the upper edge of the back of the bralette. Run two rows of

tight zigzag stitching along the top and bottom edges of the fold over elastic to anchor securely in place. Trim back any excess elastic that extends beyond the stitching line.

A ROUND OF APPLAUSE

You’ve sewn a bralette! High five!

I’d love to see your creations. Tag @OhhhLulu on Instagram, Twitter, or Facebook, and use the hashtag #hyacinthbralette.

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G LOSSARY

Backtack – anchor the beginning and end of a seam line by stitching both back and forth, before continuing on with your seam.

Baste – secure two pieces in place using a long stitch length. These stitches can later be removed.

Band Elastic – elastic that is sewn around the lower edge (band) of the bra. Usually is plush on one side, and may have a decorative edge. Band Elastic comes in varying widths. Ohhh Lulu Patterns are developed for use with ½” Band Elastic.

Bias – Cutting fabric on the bias allows woven, non-stretch fabrics to provide a small amount of stretch. The bias is 45° to the warp and weft (vertical and horizontal running) threads.

CB – Center Back CF – Center Front FOE – Fold over Elastic

Fold over elastic – elastic which binds raw edges, much like a traditional bias-binding, but provides resiliency and stretch.

Grade Seam Allowance – Trimming back your seam allowance in a graduated manner, to reduce bulk.

Picot Elastic – elastic with one looped, or decorative edge. Often used around necklines or panty legs.

Right Side – refers to the front side of the fabric (in the case of a print, right side refers to the printed side of fabric. In the case of a weave, like satin, right side refers to the shiny side of the fabric)

SA – Seam Allowance

Sliders – plastic or metal findings for assembling adjustable lingerie straps.

Strap Elastic – comes in a variety of sizes ¼” – 1”, is usually plush on one side, and offers a small amount of stretch. Strap elastic can be substituted with sewn strips of fabric to match your garment.

Wrong side – refers to the back side of the fabric.

Resources

How to Videos https://www.youtube.com/c/Ohhhlulu

Pattern Hacks and Tutorials http://www.ohhhlululingerie.com/pattern-hacks-tutorials/