MODEL
S-100
EYELET BUTTONHOLE MACHINE
PARTS AND SERVICE MANUAL
MACHINE SERIAL No.
PART NUMBER 97. 1700.1.004
AMF is trademark of AMF Group, Inc. 06/ 2013
Warranty Registration Card
(Please Fax or Mail immediately after installation)
Note: All Warranty Claims Void, unless Registration Card on file at AMF Reece HQ
Machine model number:
(S100, S101, S104, S105, S311, Deco, S4000 , EBS Mark II, ES505, etc)
Manufacturer‘s serial or production number:
Installation Site Information:
Customer‘s Name:
Customer‘s Mailing Address: Customer‘s Telephone Number:
Supervising Mechanic‘s or Technician‘s Name: Signature of Supervising Technician:
AMF Reece Technician‘s Name: AMF Reece Technician‘s Signature:
Type of garment produced at this location?
Average Daily Production Expected from this machine?
(number of buttonholes, jackets sewn, pants produced, buttons sewn, etc)
Any special requirements required at this location? What other AMF Reece Machines are at this location? How can we serve you better?
Warranty provisions:
A ninety (90) day limited service labor warranty to correct defects in installation, workmanship, or material without charge for labor. This portion of the warranty applies to machines sold as ”installed” only.
A one (1) year limited material warranty on major component parts to replace materials with defects. Any new part believed defective must be returned freight prepaid to AMF Reece, Inc. for inspection. If, upon inspection, the part or material is deter-mined to be defective, AMF Reece, Inc. will replace it without charge to the customer for parts or material.
Service labor warranty period shall begin on the completed installation date. Material warranty shall begin on the date the equipment is shipped from AMF Reece, Inc.
Exclusions:
Excluded from both service labor warranty and material warranty are: (1) Consumable parts which would be normally considered replaceable in day-to-day operations. These include parts such as needles, knives, loopers and spreaders. (2) Normal adjustment and routine maintenance. This is the sole responsibility of the customer. (3) Cleaning and lubrication of equipment. (4) Parts found to be altered, broken or damaged due to neglect or improper installation or application. (5) Damage caused by the use of non-Genuine AMF Reece parts. (6) Shipping or delivery charges.
There is no service labor warranty for machines sold as ”uninstalled”.
Equipment installed without the assistance of a certified technician (either an AMF Reece Employee, a Certified Contractor, or that of an Authorized Distributor) will have the limited material warranty only. Only the defective material will be covered. Any charges associated with the use of an AMF Reece Technician or that of a Distributor to replace the defective part will be the customer’s responsibility.
NO OTHER WARRANTY, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, AS TO DESCRIPTION, QUALITY, MERCHANTABILITY, and FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, OR ANY OTHER MATTER IS GIVEN BY SELLER OR SELLER’S AGENT IN CONNECTION HERE-WITH. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHALL SELLER OR SELLER’S AGENT BE LIABLE FOR LOSS OF PROFITS OR ANY OTHER DIRECT OR INDIRECT COSTS, EXPENSES, LOSSES OR DAMAGES ARISING OUT OF DEFECTS IN OR FAILURE OF THE EQUIPMENT OR ANY PART THEREOF.
WHAT TO DO IF THERE IS A QUESTION REGARDING WARRANTY
If a machine is purchased through an authorized AMF Reece, Inc. distributor, warranty questions should be first directed to that distributor. However, the satisfaction and goodwill of our customers are of primary concern to AMF Reece, Inc. In the event that a warranty matter is not handled to your satisfaction, please contact the appropriate AMF Reece office:
Europe
Prostejov, Czech Republic Phone: Fax: e-mail: (+420) 582-309-286 (+420) 582-360-608 [email protected]
A-INTRODUCTION
1. Introduction ... 1-1 2. Specifications ... 1-2 3. Safety of work ... 1-3 4. Security of the operator and maintenance ... 1-4 5. List of the safety labels and devices ... 1-6 6. Position of the labels and the safety devices ... 1-7 B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
1. Content of the shipping box ... 1-8 2. Accessories. ... 1-8 3. Machine unpacking and assembling ... 1-9 4. Adjustment of the T - Belt tension for sewing ... 1-12 5. Adjustment of the left T - belt tension ... 1-13 6. Thread stand installation. ... 1-14 C - OPERATOR INSTRUCTIONS
1. Preparing to Sew ... 1-15 2. Needle Installation ... 1-16 3. Threading ... 1-16 D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENTS
1. Stitches density adjustment ... 1-19 2. Adjustment of the stitches density in the eye ... 1-22 3. Adjustment of the stitches density in cross bar ... 1-22 4. Lengths of the sewing ... 1-23 5. Change of the buttonhole shape - change of the lateral cam ... 1-24 6. Change of the width bite ... 1-25 7. Principles of sewing ... 1-28 8. Bed plate alignment ... 1-34 9. Testing the cam position ... 1-34 10. Turning mechanism ... 1-35 11. Stopping mechanism ... 1-37 12. Setting - up the mechanism for fabric clamping ... 1-39 13. Clamp plate spreading ... 1-40 14. Length setting - up of the second buttonhole row ... 1-41 15. Eye shape control ... 1-41 16. Needle bar height ... 1-42 17. Clearance Between the Looper and the Needle ... 1-43 18. Spreaders adjustment ... 1-44 19. Loopers movement ... 1-45
TABLE OF CONTENTS
20. Setting - up of the spreaders movement ... 1-48 21. Cutting lever and anvil ... 1-49 22. Knife and Cutting Steel change ... 1-50 23. Cutting space modification ... 1-52 24. Cut Before and Cut After ... 1-53 25. Knife adjustment for upper thread trim ... 1-54 26. Thread draw off mechanism ... 1-56
E - ROUND EYE ADJUSTMENTS
1. Introduction ... 1-57 2. Different position of the machine mechanisms ... 1-57 3. Stop motion control ... 1-58 4. Round Eye Machine Eyelet Diameter or Cutting Space Change ... 1-59 5. Clamp feet using for correct buttonhole sewing ... 1-59 6. Adjustment of the supplied accessories ... 1-60 F - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT - CROSS BAR
1. Introduction. ... 1-61 2. Different position of the machine mechanisms ... 1-61 3. Cross bar relationship to the first and second row of the stitches ... 1-61 4. Device for sewing the cross bar ... 1-62 5. Readjustment of the cross bar machine to machine without bar ... 1-64 6. Readjustment of the cross bar machine to the fly bar machine ... 1-64 7. Hand feeding ... 1-64 8. Cross bar length adjustment ... 1-65 9. Correction of the cross bar position in axis X ... 1-66 10. Cam assembly installation ... 1-66 11. Change of the machine rotation ... 1-67 G - MACHINE MAINTENANCE
1. Cleaning and maintenance the machine ... 1-68 2. Periodic maintenance ... 1-69 3. Machine lubrication ... 1-70 4. Machine disposal ... 1-71
H - DOCUMENTATION
A - INTRODUCTION
1 . I N T R O D U C T I O NTheS100-030/031/032 (AF-CB/CA-RE) is a versatile two thread chain stitch sewing machine for
sewing buttonholes with possibility to insert the gimp. The regular eye, Cut Before / Cut After, adjustable flybar machine may be used for suits, jeans and a wide variety of sewing applications.
The S 100-052/053 (RE) is two threads, pertinently one thread machine, which is sewing round chain stitch buttonhole. It is used for sewing decorative buttonholes, for example on the hoods or hats.
The S 100-060 (CRB) is two threads machine with chain stitch and opportunity insert the gimp for sewing buttonholes with cross bar and flybar. It allows sewing by one chain thread stitch, which is suitable for smaller highlighting of the stitches above the fabric (smaller plasticity).
The size of the buttonhole (with eye or without eye) and type of the buttonhole end (open end, flybar or cross bar) are ensured by changeable cams.
The semiautomatic lubrication system uses drip oil wicks to lubricate the critical machine areas.
To prevent machine damage, it is possible to check the level of oil in the visibly placed oil sight gauge .
M a c h i n e m o d e l s :
S100 - 030/031/032 AF-CB/CA-RE S100 - 030 for standard sewing S100 - 031 for jeans sewing S100 - 032 for textilie sewing
S100 - 052 RE (Small eye) S100 - 053 RE (Large eye) S100 - 060 CRB N o t e: AF - Adjustable Flybar CB - Cutting Before CA - Cutting After CRB- Cross Bar RE - Round Eye
A - INTRODUCTION
2 . S P E C I F I C AT I O N S ch in e T y p e S 100 - 030 S 100 033 S 100 035 S 100 - 036 S 100 - 060 S 100 052 S 100 - 053 s c ri p ti o n E y el et but tonhol e m a c h ine fo r s e w ing the but tonhol es w it h t he c ros s bar and f ly bar tt onhol e s ty le w ing s peed 1450 ± 5% s ti tc hes /m in 13-32 m m c h D e n s it y e R ange rd T ri m -e T y pe 2. 5; 3; 3. 5; 4 3 .5 ; 4; 5; 6; 7 bar Lengt h bar D ens it y m ber of s ti tc hes i n t he ey e s B a r Lengt h 4 - 8 m m s B a r D ens it y 6 16 s ti tc hes / c m p F oot H e ight x imu m w o rk t h ic k n e s s tt onhol e C u tt ing M ode tt ing S pac e e c o m m ended t h reads ing C ondi ti ons e s s u re -c h ine db Lev el c h ine H ead D im ens io n c h ine H ead W e ight 66 k g e D im ens io n c h ine W e ight 151 k g tr ic al R equi re m ent s 1N P E ~ 60H z 110V /T N /S ; 3N P E ~ 60H z 230V /T N /S ; 1N P E ~ 50H z 230V /T N /S ; 3N P E ~ 50H z 400V /T N /S 8 - 16 s ti tc hes /c m 64 k g ( 143 l b ) 64 k g (143 l b ) 780 m m ( 31" ) - hei ght x 1100 m m ( 43" ) - l engt h x 600 m m ( 23. 6" ) - w idt h 149 k g 149 k g s tandar d c u tt ing af te r (C A ), pos s ibl e s e tt ing c u tt ing bef ore ( C B ) s tandar d 0. 5 0. 7 (m in im um 0. 1; m a x im u m 1. 4) -tt onhol e Lengt h 10 - 38 m m ( 0 .4 1. 5" ) w it hout upper t h read t ri m m ing, 10 32 m m ( 0 .4 1. 26" ) w it h upper t h read t ri m m ing -6-16 s ti tc hes / c m (15-41 s ti tc hes / inc h) w it hout ey e, 2. 2 x 3. 0 m m (0. 086 x 0. 118" ); 3. 2 x 5. 0 m m (0. 126 x 0. 197" ) ma x 6 mm ( 1 /4 ") 600 m m (23. 6" ) - hei ght x 465 m m ( 18" ) - l engt h x 530 m m ( 21" ) - w idt h 02. 0501. 0. 111 (1807 D N m 100 - s tandar d) 02. 0503. 3. 113 (1807 D N m 110-130 - t h ic k f abri c ) ac c o rdi ng to I E C 364-3, I E C 364-5-51 t e m per at ur e fr om + 5 ° t o 40°C , re la ti ve ai r hum id it y f rom 30 t o 80 % fr om 75 to 81 dB at m a x . s peed 5. 6 bar ( 80 ps i) -S iz e 80, 100, 120 -6 - 1-6 s ti tc hes / c m 10 m m (0. 4 ") s tandar d 6 m m (pos s ibl e range 3. 0 - 7. 0 m m ) E y el et B u tt onhol e M a c h in e E y el et but tonhol e m a c h ine f o r s e w ing the r egul ar ey e but tonhol es e s y s te m 1768 ± 5% s ti tc hes /m in 1768 ± 5% s ti tc hes /m in 2 - 4 m m ye s -8 8 8If a customer uses thread size 100 and less, the manufacturer recommends to use the left
3 . I N S T R U C T I O N F O R S A F E T Y O F W O R K
The sewing machine S -100 is designed and produced to be highly reliable. Special attention is given for securing of the service simplicity and effective safety protection of the operators and machine maintenance. The machine S -100 has safety appliance which protects operator but also machine and respects valid safety and hygienic rules for usual technological using of the machine. These safety appliances include plug of supply, operating switch (circuit breaker) and covers.
There are safety labels placed on the machine for warning for supplementary danger. Do not remove and damage these labels. When the label is damaged, order the new one. The said precautions can not cover all safety aspects that is why operator before using of the machine has to read and understand to this instruc-tions. The mistakes will be eliminated during machine installation and during its own operation. Do not try to put the machine into operation without reading all the machine instructions and until well understanding to every function and progress.
There are three types of safety direction in these instructions: D A N G E R ! Possible loss of life.
WA R N I N G ! Possible serious injury or machine damage. N O T I C E ! Possible injury or machine damage.
It is recommended to service workers from AMF Reece oversaw to the installation and initial training of mechanics and operators.
Strictly given safety program, which part is the direction for safety operation, is the most effective security of the workers safety during the operating with the machine. The secure work with the machine is ensured by the safety covers which are useful, if they are mounted and fixed correctly. The warning labels and service must be done according to the instructions. Operators and service workers should wear safety goggles.
A - INTRODUCTION
4 . I N S T R U C T I O N S F O R T H E S E C U R I T Y O F T H E O P E R AT O R A N D M A I N T E N A N C E
When the machine is set to the working area, it is recommended to keep the minimal distance said in the drawing.
D A N G E R !
- Before machine connection to the power make sure, whether all safety covers are mounted.
- If it is necessary to remove some safety covers, switch off the operating switch (circuit breaker) and disconnect the machine by the fork of supply from the socket.
- Do not connect the machine to the power if some cover is removed. WA R N I N G !
- Remember the position of the operating switch (circuit breaker) so that is possible use it from the arbitrary position.
- Make sure, whether supply of energy and its dimensioning and safeguarding allows permanent supply of energy needed for dependable output of the machine.
- Do not forget to persuade yourself before fork connection to the socket whether both switches on the machine are switched off.
- Check if the electrical cables are not damaged, so that be touch with uncovered conductor, can not occur any injury.
- Check regularly if the safety covers are correctly mounted and whether they are not damaged. - When the covers are demaged, repair or replace them immediately for the new ones.
- Do not switch the machine on without covers. - Do not touch rotary shafts by hands.
A - INTRODUCTION
- Before changing the needle, switch off the operating switch (circuit breaker).
- In case when the operator will not work on the machine, disconnect the power supply by removing the plug from the socket.
- Before cleaning or any maintenance work on the machine, disconnect the power supply by removing the plug from the socket.
- Do not adjust the machine in any way, which could endanger its safety.
- Every part of the machine can be dangerous, if there is incorrect manipulation or faulty
maintenance with the machine That is why everybody, who will manipulate, maintain or operate with this machine must be acquainted with informations included in this manual.
C A U T I O N !
- Perform all regular service as described by this manual.
- If there is any problem with power supply, turn off the mine power switch (circuit breaker). - Do not remove, paint over, damage or any way change safety labels. If a safety labels are lost or
cannot be easily read, order the new one in our factory and place them on the original place. - Long hair and loose clothing may be dangerous near any machinery. Always contain long hair and
avoid loose clothing, so that it cannot be caught by machinery and cause injury. - Never use this machine while under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
- If anything seems to be operating incorrectly in the machine call for maintenance assistance immediately.
A - INTRODUCTION
5 . L I S T O F T H E S A F E T Y L A B E L S A N D D E V I C E S
0.45 - 0.50 MPa
Standard label.
Marking of the air pressure (just for S 100 - 033, S 100 - 035 and S 100 - 036). Rotational direction (located on the right cover, left side of the rear cover, motor).
Warning by the cover removing (front cover of the frame, right cover of the drive, rear folding cover, motor cover).
Label of the safety conductor clip.
Necessity of the safety goggles using (sewing head front part, above the needle). External covers of the machine folding or dismantling by the tools.
Guard of the upper end of the needle bar. Fixed guard of the needle area.
Folding transparent eye guard - in front of the needle area.
Axis of the tilting head located irregularly to the driving axis. This solution ensure withdrawing of the belts from the driving pulleys for lifting of the head for cleaning and maintenance work . When the motor is switched on, the mechanisms of the sewing head will not move.
Folding front cover, which precludes the fingers inserting between the moving working board and the fixed frame.
A - INTRODUCTION
6 . P O S I T I O N O F T H E L A B E L S A N D T H E S A F E T Y D E V I C E S
WA R N I N G ! When the machine works, it is not disabled to give the fingers to the space between the machine table and machine head in marked place. When the working board moves, the clearance in this place is about 50 mm. If fingers are accidentally put into this place, it can occur very serious injury.
Front cover of the frame and lock screw of the folding rear cover, which disable tilting of the rear cover, are dismantled during transport. It is necessary to install these safety parts to the machine before the machine is switched on.
C A U T I O N ! If it is necessary to lift the head out of the home position, it is necessary to tilt the folding front cover to the operator side, then put the head back. If this process is not kept, and the machine is switched on, the cover will be damaged.
1 Locking screw 4 3 Folding rear cover 2 Bedplate 3 5 Frame 4
Front cover of the frame 12 Table 9 10 12 6 8 Machine head
1 . C O N T E N T O F T H E S H I P P I N G B O X 1. The delivery usually contains two boxes. One box contains
the table and wiring, second the head of machine.
2. The box contain also carton with accessories and operation
instruction with spare parts manual and the thread stand Ê.
3. When unpacking the delivery, follow labels which are on the cover.
C A U T I O N ! If the delivery was damaged during the transport, inform the carrier. Check the contains of the delivery with order. In case that there are some faults, immediately inform
the manufacturer - later complains will not be taken into consideration!
2 . A C C E S S O R I E S
Free accessories are supplied with the machine- the list is mentioned in this manual.
S 1 0 0 - 0 3 0 - accessories 030 (standard) - see 3-32 and it is possible to order 031, 032 S 1 0 0 - 0 3 1 - accessories 031 (jeans) - see 3-34 and it is possible to order 030, 032 S 1 0 0 - 0 3 2 - accessories 032 (textile) - see 3-36 and it is possible to order 030, 031 S 1 0 0 - 0 52 - accessories Round Eye (Small) - see 3-52
S 1 0 0 - 0 53 - accessories Round Eye (Large) - see 3-54 S 1 0 0 - 0 60 - accessories CRB- see 3 - 67
Ê
B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
3 . M A C H I N E U N PA C K I N G A N D A S S E M B L I N G
1. After unpacking it is necessary to put the table together according to the enclosed documentation. Delivered table is standardly took apart. For connection of the table frame, use enclosed connecting parts. For ensuring of the conductive connection among all metal parts of the table is necessary to put fan washers under the one of the two neighboring screws.
WA R N I N G !Integrity of the protective connection of the machine metal parts must be kept according to the section DOCUMENTATION - Wiring diagrams.
C A U T I O N ! The wiring assembly can perform only the person, who has an appropriate electrical qualification.
2. After putting the table together and wiring the assembly - before motor cover mounting, install the table to the given place. Its stability is ensured by the rear abutment, which is controlled by the manual screw.
3. Before next assemblies of the machine, it is necessary to control if the motor turns in right direction, it is marked S on drawing. The plug of supply, which is used as a main switch, put into the socket. When the operational switch (circuit breaker) is switched on, activate the motor to run by the foot pedal. Check the right rotational direction of the pulley according to the arrow placed on the motor. Incorrect rotational direction of the electric motor can cause machine damage.
LEFT VIEW
Rotational direction
Motor
B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
WA R N I N G ! It is commended to use original table, part number 04.90.17.0.xxx, for delivered machine. If the user has to use another table, producer can not take the responsibility for possible troubles. In this case it is necessary to use such equipment, which allows to reach on the left driving pulley for the machine cycle max. 250 rev./min. and on the right pulley for sewing drive max 875 rev./min. Higher revolution can cause serious machine damage! The socket for plug of power supply has to comply with requirements of norm IEC 364-4-41.
4 . Insert tall rubber washers from the accessories to the four holes on the table board.
5 . When the head from the cover is taken out, clean the head from the preservative grease. To catch the machine during the manipulation, use slots in front and back of the machine frame.
6 . The removed machine head place on the installed rubber washers and according to the drawing fix it by the screws, washers and rubber washers to the table.
C A U T I O N ! Do not take the machine head in the machine table!
Screws Washers Small rubber washers Tall rubber washers Oil spool Rubber washers Upper view
B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
7 . Fold the rear covers and tilt the head in the frame, make rear screws accessible during the assembly. Since some deliveries can have the covers partly dismantled, fix them to their place by using drawings in parts manual. All safety covers must be assembled according to the section: I N T R O D U C T I O N - Position of labels and safety equipment.
8 . Oil reservoir should be placed between installed tall rubber washers.
9 . The installation of the right driving belt (longer) is done by loosening the screw of the right cover and its removal.
1 0 . If the left drive belt is not put on the upper pulley of the head (tilting the rear cover to have the access to this belt), after loosening the inner screw of the frame, it is necessary to make adequate space between the gear of the hand drive and the gear of the rear shaft by tilting the frame.
11 . After belt installation, tighten the frame inner screw again so that both gears fit in, use the hand wheel.
If the belts are correctly mounted, they will not touch the covers or bedplate.
C A U T I O N ! After installing the belts, install the motor cover. It is necessary to connect the cover, machine head and motor by the protective circuit breaker.
1 2 . Before operating the machine, install the clip and the screw from the accessories on the rear cover.
Folding rear cover
Inner screw of the frame Rear shaft gear
Hand drive gear
B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
4 . A D J U S T M E N T O F T H E T - B E LT T E N S I O N F O R S E W I N G
The driving belt is placed under the right side cover. After its dismantling, loosen the pulley screw and adjust the V - belt pulley so that, so that during pushing on the front branch of the belt, there should be a sag about 25 mm (1”), as illustrated. Tighten the screw of the idler pulley.
For easy folding of the machine head, the pulley must be down with tilt min. 30° backwards. Install the removed cover again.
Idler pulley Correct belt deflection
B - MACHINE INSTLLATION
5 . A D J U S T M E N T O F T H E L E F T T- B E LT T E N S I O N 1 . The access to the belt will be obtained after folding of the folding rear cover.
2 . Then adjust the idler pulley until 13 mm, (1/2”) of flex is obtained in the belt, as illustrated. 3 . Tighten the idler pulley locking screws.
4 . Install the motor covers and set the belt stud, which is fixed on the motor cover to the distance 3 mm, (1/8”) below the pulley. This belt stud will prevent dropping of the belt when the machine head is lifted.
5 . Install the removed covers again.
3 mm, (1/8") Idler pulley Motor cover Belt stud Idler pulley locking screw 13 mm, (1/2")
B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
6 . T H R E A D S TA N D I N S TA L L AT I O N 1 . Put the thread stand together
according to the drawing. 2 . Position of the locking ring
allows assembly of the thread stand for various thickness of the table top. Threaded end of the post must not extend more that 1 mm (1/32) through the locking nut . 3 . Adjust the ring , insert the washer
and the post into the hole provided in the right rear of the table top . Insert the washer and tighten the nut .
C - OPERATOR INSTRUCTIONS
1 . P R E PA R I N G T O S E W1. Read through all safety instructions and ensure all covers are installed.
2. Only Cord Trim - Check on the air pressure regulator that pressure is in range 4.5 - 5 bars (0.45 - 0.50 MPa), see note above the regulator. 3. Give oil to the manual oiling points and check the
correct oil quantity in oil level indicator.
4. Check the needle and gimp threads are correctly threaded.
5. Before the first sewing, insert piece of fabric similar to sewing work under the clamp feet. 6. Insert the input cable into socket and by switching
on of the operating switch (circuit breaker) switch the motor on.
7. Drive of the machine is activated by the table foot pedal .
C A U T I O N ! To make sure the machine is sewing correctly, it is recommended to sew a few buttonholes on a scrap piece of material before sewing on a quality garment. 8. Insert the material under the clamp feet.
9. To lower the clamp feet , move the lever forward.
10. Press the starting lever , the clamp feet are automatically lowered. After the buttonhole is sewn and cut, the clamp feet are raised.
11. If the emergency stop button is pressed and held during sewing, the clamp feet will not raise at the end of the sewing cycle and it is possible to sew the buttonhole again.
12. If it is necessary to interrupt the sewing cycle press the stop lever . The machine will finish the cycle withoutsewing and the clamp foot will raise. (if the stop lever is pressed and then emergency stop is pressed the machine will finish the cycle without clamp raising. It is not valid for S 100 - CRB - see section G 7.
13. To stop the machine immediately in any place of sewing cycle, press foot pedal (by heel down the sewing cycle is stopped, by toe the sewing cycle is started.
14. To start the sewing cycle without sewing, lift the lever and after the cycle is started, the machine makes cycle without sewing.
C - OPERATOR INSTRUCTIONS
2 . N E E D L E I N S TA L L AT I O N
1. Loosen needle locking screw and dismantle the original needle.
2. Insert the new needle, so that the needle flat A is on opposite side from screw of the tension. Do not install a bent or broken needle. Roll the needle on a flat surface to check for straightens.
The good quality needle does not have a deflection of the point. 3. Tighten the needle locking screw well.
3 . T H R E A D I N G
WA R N I N G ! Check if the operating switch (circuit breaker) is switched off. Thread the thread, as illustrated.
The appearance and quality of the buttonhole may be affected by one or more of the following - stitches density
- used thread strength, colour - thread elasticity
- used sewn material
- tension of upper and lower thread - used thread thickness
- width of stitches
Threading the gimp and upper thread to the machine - S 100-030/031/032/033/035/036/052/053
C - OPERATOR INSTRUCTIONS
Upper thread
Gimp thread
To change the upper thread tension, use the nut .
C - OPERATOR INSTRUCTIONS
L o w e r t h r e a dLower thread
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
1 . S T I T C H E S D E N S I T Y A D J U S T M E N T - S T R A I G H T S E C T I O N
a ) m a c h i n e m o d i f i c a t i o n S 1 0 0 - 0 3 0 / 0 3 3 / 0 3 5 / 0 3 6 / 0 5 2 / 0 5 3
1. Remove auxiliary rear cover. 2. Loosen the stud nut .
3. Shift the rod stud in direction 1 to increase the stitch density, in direction 2 to decrease stitch density.
4. Tighten the nut .
N o t e : The limiter is installed on the lever . To obtain the stitch density 8-9 stitches/cm, shift the rod stud towards the limiter. To decrease the density, remove the limiter .
b ) m a c h i n e m o d i f i c a t i o n S 1 0 0 - 0 6 0 1. Fold the rear cover.
2. Start to sew the buttonhole, and stop the machine at the moment, when the lever is shored up to screw .
3. Loosen the nut and shift the lever in the slot. To decrease the density move the lever up, to increase the density move the lever down. 4. Tighten the nut .
1
2
1
D - MACHINE
ADJUSTMENT
Wa r n i n g : When the machine is used for long time, the stitch density can be changed because of the running of the main cam brake and main shaft brake. That is why it is necessary to adjust the brakes. A d j u s t i n g m a i n c a m b r a k e
The main cam brake controls the density of stitches which is adjust in chapter 2. It is a producer specifica-tion for setting the distance between stitches. Under normal use, the brake band will need to be adjusted again. The reason is to run in the brake band:
1. Loosen the locking nuts .
2. By rotating the nuts is moving the brake band (in direction 4 to increase the break pressure, move the brake band in direction 3 to decrease the pressure).
3. Tighten the locking nuts .
C A U T I O N ! If the main cam brake pressure is excessively high, the machine may malfunction. The brake pressure is used for easy breaking of the main cam brake, so that the main cam brake is not moving itself by rotary inertia.
H E L P : Adjust the stitch density according to the chapter 2 to require density with loosen the brake. Then lightly pull the brake, so that the number of stitches increase maximally to one stitch of length of the button-hole. This will ensure correct function of the brake.
1.6 mm 0.063"
1
2
3 4
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
A d j u s t m e n t o f t h e m a i n s h a f t b r a k e
The main shaft brake equalizes the stitch density of the buttonhole seam for the left and right-hand sides.
1. Loosen the locking nut of the adjustment screw in the main shaft brake .
2. Adjust the brake pressure to obtain equal stitch density between the stitches. Tighten the adjusting screw . Rotating the adjusting screw clockwise, increases the brake pressure.
C A U T I O N ! The main shaft brake is an auxiliary brake, used to obtain equalization of stitch density on the left and right-hand sides. If the main shaft brake pressure is excessively high, the machine components may malfunction. Adjust the lightest brake pressure as possible.
Rear view
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
2 . A D J U S T M E N T O F T H E S T I T C H E S D E N S I T Y I N T H E E Y E
This mechanism is not used for machine S 100 - 052 and S 100 - 053.
1. Fold the rear cover.
2. Loosen the screws and . Move with shim forward operator and the stitch density will de crease.
3. Tighten the screws and .
3. ADJUSTMENT OF THE STITCHES DENSITY IN CROSS BAR (modification S 100 - 060)
1. Lift the machine head.
2. Loosen the nut . Move rod stud with lever in ring to centre of ring or from centre of the ring. By moving the lever to the centre the stitches density is decreased,
by moving the lever form the centre the stitches density is increased. 3. Tighten the nut .
2
1
1 2
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
4 . L E N G T H S O F T H E S E W I N GThe mechanism is not used for machine S 100 - 052 and S 100 - 053.
1. Loosen the clamp screw and move with the rod till , so that the needed sewing length on the dial rod is covered with the indicator mark .
2. Tighten the screw .
The total length of the sewing L was just adjusted - see picture.
N o t e : The total sewing length is the sum of the: length of cutting plus the length of the bar. If the fly bar sewing is needed, it is necessary to change the length of the shape cam.
WA R N I N G ! When the length of buttonhole is changed, it is necessary to change also the cutting steel with appropriate length.
✑ ✑ ✒
✑ ✑ ✒
✑ ✑ ✒
✑ ✑ ✒
✑ ✑ ✒
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
5. CHANGE OF THE BUTTONHOLE SHAPE - CHANGE OF THE LATERAL CAM
Machines S 100 - 0 3 0, S 100 - 0 3 1 and S 100 - 0 3 2
Fly bar
1. Loosen the screw .
2. Lift the roll stud , so that the locking lever allows the insertion of new lateral cam . 3. Tighten the screw
No bar - to adjust the fly bar with open end of the buttonhole, follow this steps: 1. Loosen the screw .
2. Push the roll stud and insert the cam. 3. Tighten the screw .
.
fly bar
no bar
M achines 0 5 2 / 0 5 3 / 0 3 3 / 0 3 5 / 0 3 6 - unscrew the screw on the lateral cam, remove the cam, insert
the new one and tighten the screw.
M achine 0 6 0 - Remove the cam and insert the new one. To sew fly bar or no bar buttonhole, instead of
h t g n e L FORBUTTONHOLES WITHOUTEYE FOR BUTTONHOLES WITH EYE e p a h s / e y e cam type .030 eye/shape cam type.030 camtype .035 0 4 -3 1 0 17.0067.4.101 3/5 17.0067.4.102 2 3 0 17.0067.4.145 3/5 17.0067.4.161 9 2 0 17.0067.4.144 3/5 17.0067.4.160 6 2 0 17.0067.4.143 3/5 17.0067.4.159 4 2 0 17.0067.4.142 3/5 17.0067.4.158 2 2 0 17.0067.4.141 3/5 17.0067.4.157 17.0067.4.106 0 2 0 17.0067.4.140 3/5 17.0067.4.156 9 1 0 17.0067.4.139 3/5 17.0067.4.155 17.0067.4.105 8 1 0 17.0067.4.138 3/5 17.0067.4.154 6 1 0 17.0067.4.137 3/5 17.0067.4.153 17.0067.4.103 6 1 *3/5 17.0067.4.403 4 1 0 17.0067.4.136 3/5 17.0067.4.152 3 1 0 17.0067.4.135 3/5 17.0067.4.151 2 1 0 17.0067.4.134 3/5 17.0067.4.150 0 1 0 17.0067.4.133 2 3 -3 1 * * 0 17.0067.4.405 3/5 17.0067.4.404
D - MACHNE ADJUSTMENT
Supplied lateral cams:*
Only for order: flybar 7 mm, stitch width 2 mm ** Only for CRBWARNING !
When the lateral cam is changed, it is necessary to ensure the adjustment of the correct buttonhole length, and install the correct cutting steel or knife.6 . C H A N G E OF T H E W I D T H B I T E
Can be use for all machine modifications.
To adjust the width bite turn the button clockwise the width bite will decrease - see 1. By turning the button counter clockwise, the width bite will increase - see
2
.The standard width bite is in range from 2,8 to 3,4 mm (0.110” to 0.134”) it is adjusted by the manufac-turer.
To change the width bite adjusted by manufacturer, follow this steps:
1. Loosen the screw from the button and remove the adjustable button .
2. Remove the screw , the cover and also the adjustable screw of the width bite . 3. Rotate with adjustable segment until the hole determining the width bite is not obtained. 4. Install the adjustable screw and mount removed parts.
D -MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
4
3
Ï
Ï
Ï
Î
Î
Î
2
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
A d j u s t m e n t o f t h e w i d t h b i t e i n t h e c r o s s b a r
The cross bar can be narrow down only by maximally 0.6 mm in adjusted width bite;. 1. Remove the side cover of the head.
2. Check if , is in the moment of maximal pressure during the cutting the bracket over the tooth on the block . If is not, heave it by screw , so that is maximally 2 mm over the tooth . After turning the mechanism to the working position, the bracket , must fall to the top of the pivot . After the buttonhole is sewn is the bracket in the front of the pivot . During the sewing the cross bar, the bite size is decreased.
If the bracket fall down to the front of the pivot before the sewing first part of the buttonhole, it will occur prematurely decreasing the bite size, in that case, is the table moving minimally and the machine is sewing almost in one place.
3. Loosen the screw , and rotate the ring to change the bite width in the cross bar (counter clockwise, the bite size increases, clockwise is the bite size decreased - from upper view) 3. Tighten the screw .
4. It is necessary to move the stop by the same amount of the millimeters as the ring has been moved, but in the opposite direction.
5. Install the left side cover.
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
7. P R I N C I P L E S O F S E W I N GS - 100 machine, produced by AMF Reece, sews two-thread, chain stitches with possibility to insert the gimp.
Upper thread
Gimp Lower thread
Needle L.H. looper L.H. spreader Lower thread Upper thread R.H. spreader R.H. looper Looper carrier Reinforcing cord (gimp) Throat plate Needle L.H. spreader Lower thread Upper thread R.H. spreader R.H. looper Gimp Throat plate
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
A stitch is the unit of thread formed in the production of seams and stitching.
Stitching is defined as a series of stitches embodied in a material for ornamental purposes, for finishing an edge, or both.
The type of stitch used in the eyelet buttonhole machine is a 401 stitch, two-thread, chain lock, purl stitch enveloping a reinforcing cord. When the thread, loopers, and spreaders create a buttonhole:
A loop is formed when the needle rises. The looper carrier moves to the right and the left-hand looper
The looper carrier continues moving to the right, carrying the lower thread, the left-hand looper, and the
spreader, fully enter the formed loop.
L.H. looper Needle L.H. spreader Lower thread Upper thread R.H. spreader R.H. looper Gimp Throat plate L.H. looper Needle L.H. spreader Lower thread Upper thread
R.H. looper & spreader Gimp
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
The left-hand spreader opens, making room for the needle to pass through a loop formed by the
As the needle moves down to form a new loop, a take-up implement pulls the upper thread up into the material, and brings the lower thread with it.
Needle guard Needle
Throat plate
Lower thread
Upper thread
R.H. looper & spreader Gimp
Needle guard Needle
Throat plate
Lower thread Upper thread
R.H. looper & spreader L.H. looper & spreader
A loop is formed as the needle rises. The looper carrier continues moving to the left and the right-hand looper, enter the new loop formed. The previous loop is pulled up tight against the material.
The looper carrier continues moving to the left. The right-hand looper and spreader fully enter the formed loop.
The right-hand spreader opens, making room for the needle to pass through a loop formed by the upper thread. Needle guard Needle Throat plate Lower thread Upper thread
R.H. looper & spreader
R.H. looper Needle
Lower thread
Upper thread
L.H. looper & spreader
Gimp
R.H. spreader
The lower thread forms a purl as it, and the previously formed thread loop, are pulled up against the mate-rial. The enveloped cord provides the buttonholes with body.
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
The looper carrier moves to the right as the needle “strips” the loop previously formed. The left-hand looper enters the new loop which is being formed.
L.H. looper Needle
Lower thread
Upper thread
R.H. looper & spreader Gimp
L.H. spreader
Needle
Lower thread
Upper thread
R.H. looper & spreader Gimp
R.H. spreader
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
8 . B E D P L AT E A L I G N M E N TMake the adjustment with the lateral cam for sewing of the buttonhole without eye and without flybar. 1. Remove feet plates and instead of stitching plate install support of the gauge from accessories. 2. Turn by the handle and stop the machine approximately in the middle of the table protrusion .
Measured distance between support of the gauge and the table slat on the right side has to be the same as distance between support of the gauge and table slat on the left side after moving to the same place after race turning.
3. Possible difference adjust after loosing the nut stud of the cam by its shifting to reach identical distance x1 = x2. Tighten the nut well.
9 . S E T T I N G O F T H E C A M P O S I T I O N
In home position of the machine, during cutting after, adjust the position of the cam holder, so that locating pin points obliquely towards operators.
Loosen adjusting screws on the shaft in teething of the cam and turn with the cam. By this will be change the buttonhole eye shape. Tighten adjusting screws.
Remove cutting knife and take the thread out of the machine. Insert the paper under clamp feet and without thread sew the buttonhole on the paper for check. If the eye shape looks like picture
1
below, turn the cam in direction2.
If the eye shape looks like picture2
down, turn the cam in direction1
.C A U T I O N ! To perform correct adjustment, turn with the cam very softy.
Cam holder
1 2
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
1 0 . T U R N I N G M E C H A N I S MWA R N I N G ! This adjustment can be performed only by well trained mechanic.
If the stitches are not vertical to the catted hole, it is necessary to adjust the turning mechanism: 1. The machine must be in home position.
2. Loosen the screw and adjust the looper holder, so that the looper holder is vertical to the length ways axis of the table. Tighten the screw .
3. Loosen the screw and adjust the needle bar so that tension discs are in direction towards the operator. Tighten the screw .
If the stitches are not in direction to the centre of the eye, follow this steps: 1. Lift the machine head.
2. Loosen the nut on the roller stud of the turn lover according to the necessity. By moving down direction
2
, turning starts earlier and by moving up direction1
, turning starts later. Tighten the nut stud . Turning segment Turning lever Roller stud Rod stud 1 2 Turning segment 3 4Check the correct position by means of the enclosed gauge from accessories.
Give down the machine head. Remove the stitching plate. By turning the handle on the machine left side, go with the table to the half of the sewn buttonhole in the first row of stitches.
1
2
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
Givestraight edge of the gauge over front edge of the supporting surface of the loopers. Check the space between the gauge and the table slat.
By turning of the handle on the left side of the machine, go with the table to half of the second row of the stitches.
Check the distance between gauge and the left table slat again.
The position is correct, if there is no clearance between the gauge and the straight edge - the edge is parallel to the table slat.
If not, modify the turning of the sewing mechanism by 180 o± 2o so that after machine lifting, loosen the nut stud of the rod and shift until tilt between the gauge and the table slat is decreased to the half. Tighten the nut.
During the stud movement towards
3
, increase the rotation angle of sewing mechanism , towards4
, the turning angle decreases.Normally, this adjustment is pursued several times until you reach correct adjustment.
1/2 1/2 2. row of stitches 1. row of stitches Gauge Space Table slot Space
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
Bedplate Table Roller stud Link Lever Length gauge Stop screw Nut Lever Stop Roller stud Hand wheel 1 1 . S T O P P I N G M E C H A N I S MWA R N I N G ! Switch off the main power to prevent accidental engagement of the machine.
Rotate the handle until the machine is in the home position. In the home position, the bedplate no longer moves to the rear. This adjustment is pursued when cutting after - CA is adjusted.
Rotate the hand wheel until stopping mechanism locks the movement of the sewing drive.
Push the link back. The lever must latch over the roller stud. After loosing the nut adjust by the stop screw clearance 0,1 - 0,15 mm (0.0039 - 0.0059”) between roller and length gauge. Then setup stop to the roller stud with clearance min. 0,1 mm (0.0039”).
0,1 mm
D - MACHINE
ADJUSTMENT
The clearance between the brake shaft and the cam of the hand wheel should be 0,05 - 0,10 mm, (0.002” - 0.004”). It can be adjust after loosing the screw of the three fork lever (below). Pull up the locking lever forward.
In the lowest place of the cam of the hand wheel, after clearance adjustment, tighten the screw.
Adjust the clearance between left drive pulley and spool to 2 - 3 mm. (0.078” - 0.118”)¨. Turn the handle (page 1-36) till the shaft of the hand wheel is loosen and adjust the clearance min. 0,25 mm, (0.098”) between dogs. Use for this adjusting screw after loosing its nut.
Locking lever Brake of the sewing shaft Cam of the hand wheel 0,05-0,1 mm Spool Left drive pulley 2-3 mm Dogs Screw
By turning the hand wheel and when the roller is in the highest position of the length gauge, adjust
the clearance 0,1 - 0,2 mm (0.004” - 0.008”) between the stud and disengaging lever after loosing the nut of this lever. Tighten the nut well.
Turn the hand wheel till the roller is out of the highest position of the length gauge. Push the disengaging lever. In this moment during the turning the hand wheel anti-clockwise, the brake is in contact with travel of the hand wheel. The clearance between the dogs must be at least 0,25 mm (0.098”) or more.
By handle move with the machine table to the end position. Adjust the clearance between the dogs after nut loosing to 0,25 mm (0.098”) or more. Switch on the main power (circuit breaker) and test the machine cycle. Hand wheel Disengaging lever Machine table Length gauge Roller
Screw of the three fork lever
Stud Disengaging lover Adjusting screw Nut Nut of the
disen-gaging lever
Normally, this adjustment is pursued several times until you reach correct adjustment.
Nut of the disengaging lever
D - MACHINE
ADJUSTMENT
12 . S E T T I N G - U P O F T H E M E C H A N I S M F O R FA B R I C C L A M P I N G
Basic position of the feet plates with the feet is possible to adjust in position, when by turning the hand wheel the rollers are on the spreader block of the knife holder (picture, page 1-39) and feet plates are opened. After stop screws loosing is possible to adjust the stops. The space X between the table slat and feet plate should be identical by both plates (approximately 0,8 mm, 0.031”). It is reached after setting the space by first foot plate, and loosening its screw and pushing the second stop, so that the plates are leaned on stops. Parallelism of the plates, adjust by shifting of the clamp stud for x = x1.
Clamp stud
X
Table slot
Stop Stop screw
Roller stud Holder of the arm foot
Screw of the holder
The standard clearance between the clamp feet and the needle surface is 1 mm. To change the standard bite size (2,8 3,4 mm, 0.110” 0.134”), to bite 2,0 2,8, (0.078” 0.110”) or 3,4 4,0 mm, (0.134” -0.157”), loosen the screw of the holder and adjust the needed clearance by shifting the holder of the arm foot. The clamp feet are set by manufacturer for medium/heavy weight materials. The construction of the spring-loaded drive levers allows to sew wide range of the fabric thickness. For sewing of the thin fabrics is possible to adjust the press by shifting the stud of the control lever after loosing its nut. Ensure the set position by arresting screw.
Standardly set height of the clamp feet 10 mm (0.393”) is possible to adjust by screw of the support. The needed overtravel to cca 1/4 of diameter of the stud (D/4), adjust by supporting screw. After swinging of the ejecting lever during clamp feet closing by the machine cycle, must its end pass the tooth of the control lever.
Control lever Ejecting
lever
Stud of the control lever Arresting screw
Supporting screw Supporting screw Nut stud X1
D - MACHINE
ADJUSTMENT
1 3 . C L A M P P L AT E S P R E A D I N G
The amount of spread distance is determined by the sewing application. Loose fabric (especially thin) should cause stitches missing.
Rotate the left-handle until the clamp plate rollers are positioned to the widest part of the spreader block.. After loosing the locking screw of the clamp, change the spreading size by the adjusting screw.
For denim, the producer recommends the spreading 0,6 mm between plate and located slipped out stop.
Left-hand crank Clamp Adjusting screw Bedplate Stop screw Stop Knife holder Spreader block Clearance must be
equal on the both sides
1 5 . E Y E S H A P E C O N T R O L 1. Install the throat plate.
2. Insert the prick-in needle 02.0001.0.000 into the needle bar. The depth of the needle into the needle bar must allow the point of the needle to just barely penetrate a piece of paper.
3. Place a piece of paper across the clamp area of the bedplate to check needle penetration.
4. Switch on the motor power.
5. Sew the sample and check regularity of the eye shape sewing. Remove appropriate faults according to the previous sections.
D - MACHINE
ADJUSTMENT
1 4 . L E N G T H S E T T I N G - U P O F T H E S E C O N D B U T T O N H O L E R O W
1. Loosen the locking nut and rotate the adjustable screw for the correct last stitch stop location. 2. Rotating the screw in, the second row of stitches will be shorten, rotating the screw out, the second
row of stitches will be longer.
Stitch Examples
Locing nu
Adjsting screw Shorter Even Longer
1
2
1 6 . N E E D L E B A R H E I G H T
1. Perform this adjustment when the machine is in the home position 2. Remove the throat plate and the needle.
3. Install the support of the gauge , instead of throat plate.
4. Install the needle bar height gauge and check the needle bar height, with the needle bar set at the bottom of the stroke. Standard height of the needle bar is 16.5 mm, (0.65") between the top of the gauge cutout and the bottom of the needle bar, when the needle bar is at the lowest point.
If the adjustment is incorrect :
5. Remove the front cover of the head.
6. Loosen the screws and move the needle bar up or down as needed. The needle bar can not have an axial clearance, but it must free rotate.
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
Needle bar in lower position 16.5 mm 0.650" 34 mm 1.34" Bottom of needle bar contacts the top of the height gauge cutoutD - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
1 7 . A D J U S T M E N T O F T H E L O O P E R S T O T H E N E E D L E
After setting of the loopers is necessary to adjust center puncture to the buttonhole axis. Differently adjust the needle bar by the machines S-100.052/053, see MACHINE ADJUSTMENT ROUND BUTTON-HOLE - Differently position of the machine mechanisms S -100 - 052/053. The standard clearance be-tween the loopers and needle is 0.05 to 0.1 mm, (0.002 to 0.004").
1. Manually rotate the right hand wheel and ensure the distance between the needle and each looper, as the needle passes the loopers at the closest point, are equal. Is suitable to check it on the both sides of the buttonhole.
2. It is possible to adjust the clearance after loosing the screw and turning the loopers forward or backwards to obtain the proper clearance. Then tighten the screw .
The recommended clearance between the face of the needle and back of needle guard is between 0.05 to 0.1 mm, (0.002 to 0.004"). To adjust, bend the needle guard in or out as necessary in order to obtain the proper clearance.
Needle Face Right hand looper
Needle 0.05 to 0.1 mm
0.002 to 0.004"
1 8 . S P R E A D E R S A D J U S T M E N T
Install left and right spreader , spreader stops and its springs . Left fork spreader adjust above the hole in the left looper .
Inner side of right spreader adjust to the same level with appropriate inner side of the right looper . It is possible to do adjustment after loosing the screws of the stop by its swinging.
Check both spreaders operation and find if the spreaders do not catch the loopers or spreaders stops. Check whether the loopers have axial clearance. If yes, define the clearance after loosing the screws of the spreader stops by shifting of the stops .
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
1 9 . A D J U S T M E N T O F T H E L O O P E R S M O V E M E N T
Turn the left handle of the machine until the drive shaft is released. Turn the right hand wheel until the needle bar is in the lower position of the center puncture.
Lift the machine head and after loosing of the screws of the clutch is possible to turn by the sewing cam until the timing gauge lines are aligned, which determines the correct position of the loopers adjustment. C A U T I O N! If there is no gauge line on the block, adjust the cam by the timing gauge line to the center of the block.
Tighten the screws .
During the machine control is possible to check this adjustment when the threads are threaded. The needle bar is in the lowest position, center puncture, timing gauge lines should be aligned.
Block timing gauge line
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
Rotate the right-hand wheel until the needle bar reaches the lowest point of the first needle bar stroke 3,3 mm (0.130”). The correct adjustment allow enclosed gauge located on the support. The point of the left-hand looper must be half way across the needle. Needle bar must lean on the highest point of gauge. Now it is necessary to loosen the screws and move the left-hand looper to the right or left, to bring the looper into the needle center line.
Tighten the screws .
Side view
Align the end of left looper with the center of the needle The highest gauge point
Lowest point Gauge
N o t e : Repeating the above mentioned steps is usual for reaching of the correct adjustment.
C A U T I O N ! Using S 100 AMF Reece designed replacement parts, will ensure the best quality and highest production possible. The part numbers are listed in the Parts Section of this manual.
3.3 mm
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
Rotate the right-handwheel until the needle bar reaches the lowest point of the vibrator stroke. After raising the needle bar 3.5 mm, (0.140"), note the position of the right looper point to the center line of the needle.
If the looper point is not to the center line of the needle, loosen the clip screw and move the right-hand looper half the distance to the needle center line, by this you align the distance of both loopers. Tighten the screw.
Total distance is 4 mm - move the end of the looper toward the center of the needle 2 mm (0.079”)
C A U T I O N ! Check both needle bar strokes to ensure both sides are equal distance from the point of the looper to the needle centerline.
Example:
4 mm
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
2 0 . S E T T I N G - U P O F T H E S P R E A D E R S M O V E M E N T
It is necessary to adjust the spreaders so that the left and right spreader is opening and closing equally on the left and right, without contacting the needle.
Carefully loosen the spreader crosshead set screw , located in the spreader spindle. . It is necessary to hold the spreader crosshead to protect it against self adjustment by the pressure of the springs. Adjust the correct position.
Tighten the crosshead set screw .
I M P O R TA N T ! The right and left-hand spreader distances X, from the needle, must be equal.
Needle Needle
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
2 1 . C U T T I N G L E V E R A N D A N V I L
1. Side adjustment of the cutting lever do with inserted knife after loosing the cutting lever studs locknuts and by moving the studs to the left or right, as needed.
2. Tighten the studs .
N o t e : If the buttonhole cut looks like illustration 1, rotate the studs to the right, if the buttonhole cut looks like illustration 2, rotate the studs to the left.
3. After anvil adjustment , insert the cutting knife.
4. Loosen the knife holder set screws , and by holder shifting to the left or right, obtain the proper position of the lower knife.
5. Check by manual pressing of the cutting lever, if both knives have the same position.
6. After setting-up, do not forget to replace one of the knives by suitable cutting steel. Then tighten the set screws .
2 1
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
2 2 . K N I F E A N D C U T T I N G S T E E L C H A N G E
Various types of knives (straight buttonhole, cutting before and after sewing) and steels for machine S - 100 can be replaced.
It is possible to place the knife to the cutting lever and steel down or opposite. It is possible to deliver below mentioned cutting knives and steels.
C A U T I O N ! The cutting pressure must be adjusted when the cutting steel is replaced or the material being sewn changes. Cutting steel is changed according to the buttonhole length.
WA R N I N G ! Before doing any adjustment, switch off the main machine power and for the machine S -100 CT disconnect the air supply and release any stored air in the machine. To obtain correct buttonhole cuts, perform each step of the following procedure. Failure to follow these steps may cause knife breakage and possible machine damage.
1. Remove the knife and cutting steel.
2. Ensure the contact surface of the cutting lever and the knife holder are not damaged.
3. Install the new cutting steel into the knife holder and install the new knife into the cutting lever and lightly tighten the knife locking screws , .
4. Manually lower the knife against the cutting steel to seat the knife in the cutting lever and fully tighten the knife locking screws , ..
5. Manually lower the cutting lever toward the knife holder and ensure the knife and the cutting steel are correctly aligned.
6. Decrease the cutting lever pressure by rotating the pressure adjusting screw counter clockwise three revolutions. Steadiness of the intersection is suitable to find out by manual knife compression against cutting steel with inserted paper. Print must be even. It is not recommended to repair damaged knife. Cleaning of the cutting steels must be done by machine grinding or by soft emery
Washers
Length 3/5 CA-T 3/5 CA 3/5 CB-T 3/5 CB O-T O 10 19.0064.5.846 12 19.0064.5.847 (13) 19.0064.5.951 14 19.0064.5.848 16 19.0064.5.849 18 19.0064.5.850 (19) 19.0064.5.952 20 19.0064.5.851 22 19.0064.5.852 24 19.0064.5.853 26 19.0064.5.854 29 19.0064.5.855 32 19.0064.5.856 35 19.0064.5.857 38 19.0064.5.858 17.0064.5.863 17.0064.6.325 18.0087.0.407 Length of buttonhole Knives 18.0087.0.405 18.0087.0.408 18.0087.0.406
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
Stop
7. Then position a piece of fabric between the knife and the cutting steel and cycle the machine and check the cut of the fabric. The cut must be even and can not be discontented through the whole length. If is it incorrect, rotate the pressure adjusting screw one revolution clockwise only, cycle the machine and check the cut. Increase the adjusting screw pressure one revolution at a time until a correct cut is obtained.
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
2 3 . C U T T I N G S PA C E M O D I F I C AT I O N
Change of the stitches rows position, increase or decrease the cutting space, it is used especially when the cutting before is changing to the cutting after.
1. Loosen the nut .
2. Turn the eccentric clockwise for the more cutting space, as illustrated in example 2 of anti-clockwise for less cutting space, as illustrated in example 1.
3. Tighten the nut .
N o t e : When the change of the cutting space is performed, it can be necessary to do loopers adjustment, or upper thread trim knife adjustment.
1
2
2 1
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
2 4 . C U T B E F O R E A N D C U T A F T E R
Ensure the change by two functional components, after loosing the locking nut above and screw of the feet control lever down and by shifting in grooves in direction to the marked stops as needed, CA is cutting after and CB is cutting before. The stop screws are ensured by the color. Without serious reason, do not manipulate with position of the stops.
Loosen the two locking components , .
After rearrangement is necessary to twice mechanically tests the machine cycle (without sewing) - the first cycle is usually incomplete.
Clamp lever CA CB CB CA
Feet control lever
“CB”-Cut before “CA”-Cut after
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
2 5 . K N I F E A D J U S T M E N T F O R U P P E R T H R E A D T R I M1. After repeatedly mounted holder with thread knife loosening the knife travel nut
, set the thread trimming knife height to reach the clearance 0.1 to 0.15 mm, above the right side spreader . 2. The basic angle of set cutting knife
adjust by scerw , so taht the left side of the knife is covered with right side of the throad plate .
3. The knife position , required for catching the upper thread loop, can be changed after loosening the screw , so that the knife edge is 0,9 mm from the needle . When the knife position is changed it is necessary to check the height emendation to preserve the clerance - see article 1. 4. The knife end position is limited by stop
screw so that the cutting knife does not toutch upper thread by itself tip. 5. The initial position of the control lever
adjust to the space in range 0,2---0,3 mm from the stud by screw after loosen ing its nut.
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
Picture 2 Picture 3 Screw 11,50 - 12 mm 0,00 - 0,10 mm 0,0 - 0,004”Knife stop scerw
0,450 -0,470”
6. To adjust the actuator , loosen the actuator adjusting screw ,then move the end position of the thread trimmer knife until the point of the knife passes the point of the right - hand looper, measured during the moment the actuator passes over the pawl so that is between lever and throated trimming knife arm clearance 0,0 mm to 0,1 mm (0,0” to 0,004”), see picture 3. Tighten the screw .
C A U T I O N ! The knife screw stops eliminates the risk of trimming the lower thread by limiting the range of the trimming knife motion, see picture 3.
7. Time the thread trimming by sliding the actuator holder . The basic adjustment 11,5 mm to 12,0 mm (0,450” to 0,470”) is obtained in the initial machine stop position. This adjustment corresponds to the buttonhole length limit of 32 mm, (1,260”), adjusted by moving the holder lateral stop - see picture 2.
1. Basic position of the lever of the upper thread draw off is adjusted after loosing of the arresting screw .
2. Measure of the upper thread draw off is adjusted by means of stop screw on the rod controlled by the cutting lever movement, which is manually shifted to the lower position. To protect the thread falls out of the needle, the thread can only be loosen after its clamping by the pin . R e m e m b e r :
Inadequate thread draw off causes stitches missing in the beginning of the next button hole sewing. Excessive thread draw off causes
extension of the thread end in the beginning of the cycle.
3. If the spring, which control the return of the lever for the upper thread draw off, do not prove the lift the lever to the upper position, is necessary to loosen the clamping screw and turn the sprung stud for increase of the pressure of the returnable spring.
4. For attainment the same length of the trimmed thread ends, use the nuts of the constant thrust for setting-up of the cutting tension for needed value 50 - 70 kg. When the tension is excessive, the last stitch unravels. Excessive loosen nut causes that the spring of the thread tension is not functional.
Note : The regulating nut is for the operator use, the constant trust nut is adjusted by the manufacturer, so that it is not necessary to adjust it further.
5. By turning the regulating nut clockwise the thread tension will increase.
6. By turning the regulation nut counter clockwise, the thread tension will decrease.
Draw the nut to sew hard materials (jeans), and loosen the nut to sew soft materials. Using the nut on the race, is possible to affect the thread tension.
