U1MB(Black PCB) CPLD v1.0 update using Xilinx USB Programming Cable
Model DLC9LP
This is primarily an addendum to the article at http://www.unretro.com/computers/atari8/ultimate The information given there is while very good and quite literally the most concise and complete in one place U1MB cpld update information available, still is missing some critical information. Mainly because I was using a different Xilinx USB Programming Cable model and made some assumptions that turned out to not be true, as assumptions usually do.
Step 1: Install and verify you have a functioning U1MB upgrade.
Step 2: Gather together your supplies.
Unless you want your Atari/Model DLC9LP to go ZZzzzzz when power is applied, lay in a supply of shrink tubing. I used these:
1 Black 3/8” Diameter 3” Length
6 Red, Black + 4 other colors of your chosing 1/16” Diameter 1-1 ½ “ Length
Multimeter, Wire Stripper, Flux, Solder, Soldering Iron, 3rd hand stand, soothing/calming music to keep the blood pressure at a reasonable level.
Step 3: Devise a strategy for how you are going to wire the adapter cable.
On the DLC9LP adapter board and the U1MB you’ll notice that the connectors you will be using are keyed. That means that any cable will only go in one way.
Here’s what I did after cutting the two cables in half and tinning the ends:
I fitted the female end of the HQ 2x5 10 pins IDC Male to Female JTAG ISP Cable to the correct connector on the DLC9LP adapter board. I then ohmed out the #1 pin. It turned out to be the brown wire in this case. If you are using a different cable the color maybe different.
I then fitted the female end of the HQ 2x5 10-Pin 2.0mm IDC JTAG ISP Cable Multiple Color Ribbon Wire to the JTAG connector on the U1MB. Again I ohmed out the #1 pin. Again it turned to be the brown wire. If you are using a different cable the color maybe different.
Now I knew what wire on both cables were #1. I could then devise the correct pinout combination for the DLC9LP and the U1MB and match them to the correct color wire on both cable ends.
Step 4: Prep the cables and begin soldering the correct wires. Que soothing music in the background.
Pull back the individual wires on both cable ends about 2 inches so that all the wires are separated. Then insert the large diameter black shrink tube on one cable end and the six smaller diameter shrink tubes on the correct individual wires of the other cable end. I used red for the Vcc wire and black for the gnd wire. I then cut to the insulation all the wires that I was not going to solder. Then I clamped the connector end of one cable in a 3rd hand stand and began soldering the correct wires together for both cables. There’s all kinds of debate on how to marry the ends together of two wires, I went with the simplest and tried to keep the wire ends on the same horizontal plane to reduce any pointed solder spikes. When I wasn’t successful, I clipped the offending spikes with a pair of diagonal cutting pliers.
****Now ohm each wire to verify not only continuity, but also that you connected the correct wires to both ends.****
Redo it if you screwed up. Trust me, it’s easier to do it now than later. Que up more soothing music if you need to.
If your continuity/correct wire check pans out, then push the various shrink tubing sleeves over the exposed metal on each wire and apply heated air to shrink the tubing. Leave the wide black shrink tube for last.
The cable won’t win any beauty contests, but it will work.
Step 5: Misc Tips
The remaining steps are very similar to what the article states. I ran into some issues with Impact that I had to fix. I’m running Window 10 Pro. I ended up having to install the full ISE suite with Admin privileges to get the USB drivers installed properly. Your mileage may vary.
The programming went smoothly at that point. I was able to reboot the Atari into the Help/Config screen of the U1MB, proving that I hadn’t bricked the board.
But then I made an assumption that balled me up for the better part of a day and a half.
Somehow I thought that the Help/Config screen would change after the cpld update. When it didn’t I just knew I had a defective DLC9LP programmer, or the software wasn’t working or I had done
something else wrong. I retried programming at least three times, using different USB ports on the computer. No change in the screen.
It wasn’t until I posted on AtariAge that I found out it wouldn’t. Assuming the programming went correctly, you won’t see any difference in the Help/Config screen. That won’t change until you update the plcc chip, which is a different procedure.
Okay next I went looking for info on how to do the BIOS update procedure. I found two Youtube videos that proved invaluable. I had an old Side 1 cart that I had not really done anything with since I’d bought it. I had heard that using the Side II cart was the easiest way to update the U1MB BIOS so I reasoned that I should be able to use the SIDE 1 cart I had.
That prompted another adventure in firmware updating. Dir Nury produced a video showing how he updated his Side II cartridge. Using that as a guide I dl the correct SIDE1 SDX/Loader firmware from flashjazzcat’s site and updated my old trusty/dusty Side I. Then I followed another Nury video on the U1MB BIOS update. Went off without a hitch.
You don’t have to use flashjazzcat’s U1MB firmware, but I do recommend it. The same procedure should work with the files from Lotharek’s site.
And so ends the tale. Alls well that ends well. (I couldn’t resist…..:) )
