BBC GoodFood India 2013-07

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JULY 2013

C

100 eat in

7 eat out

7 eat away

EAT OUT

EAT AWAY

Eat like a

Vietnamese

Street Food

Congress,

Singapore

India

80 +

TRIPLE-

TESTED

RECIPES

French fries

reinvented

Cooking with

Indian berries

Breakfasts

on trial

Chez Nini’s

signature

Poutine

clever comfort food

Royal cherry triﬂ e p 154

7 Lotus-stem pakodas

7 Spinach rarebits

7 Harissa lamb stew

7 Achari meatballs

7 Cherry trifle

pudding

READER OFFER!

20% off

on

Preeta Mathur’s new

book The Courtly Cuisine

(T&C apply - see p 99)

MASTERCLASS

Diego Palladino's

Club 9 pizza

p 144

FREE! AUGMENTED REALITY VIDEO FOR INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO VIEW, TURN TO P 20

ERCLASS

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2BBC GoodFood JULY 2013 Pakodas and chai is a match made in monsoon heaven. Likewise,s

what’s more reassuring than a bowl of gooey pasta when it’s pouring, right? The magic of the rains is incomplete without such feel-good favourites.

The beauty of these beloved classics is that they never fail to please. But we think tweaking the tried-and-true is exciting

too. Sometimes, a single ingredient change can feel like a total makeover. This month we take comfort fare to new,

mouthwatering heights. From bhee (lotus stem)pakodas tos

poutine, from cake pops to cherry triﬂe, we’ve got wickedly clever dishes that hit all the right spots.

Chips with chops It’s true. Anything plus French fries guarantees a

meal polished clean. Countless recipes the world over are devoted to this fast food icon, an indicator of our collective spud obsession. Fried, baked, spicy, cheesy, we bring you seven knockout spins on the fry, even daring to take it beyond potatoes. I love the Skinny Carrot Fries livened up with tarragon, so tasty (and forgiving).

Berries and drupes This month we show a bit of love to jamun and shehtoot,d luxuriant in their abundance right now. I know you might be a bit nervous about

cooking with these local berries but Assistant Food Editor Kainaz Contractor’s rock-solid recipes show you how to get the best out of them. We also celebrate cherries with some ultra-dreamy desserts. A spoonful of silky Double Cherry Semifreddo will

convince you: It’s pointless to resist.

Great balls of meat Fried for a Danish frikadeller, tucked as a kofta in a roti wrap ora

steamed for a classic Cantonese dim sum, let us count the ways we love meatballs. So what distinguishes this comfort food across various cuisines? Nuances of texture and ﬂavour. We bring you six zippy takes on this rustic dish loved the world over. Oozing with juice and loaded with ﬂavour, these hearty winners will satisfy all your meaty cravings.

Kayastha food Preeta Mathur’s unique home-style Kayastha recipes lovingly documented

in The Courtly Cuisine: Kayastha Kitchens through India will take you on an exotic culinary journey. Our eight exclusive recipes from the newly released book prove that good things (like the skill-intensive Riconch from Uttar Pradesh) come to those who are patient. Good

Food readers get a 20 per cent off the cover price of this fascinating book. Grab it!d

I hope this issue hooks you. As always, our recipes draw inspiration from around the world and encourage you to explore new cuisines, cooking methods and ingredients.

Make a splash this rainy season. Happy monsoon.

Sona Bahadur, editor

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ADDICTED TO

FRENCH FRIES?

We show you how

to get your fix.

P 84

THE ADORED

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cake pop I didn’t

like. P 25

POT LUCK

Find time to make

this fall off-the-bone

tender chicken. It’s a

snap to master. P 100

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Chief Executive Officer Tarun Rai

Editor Sona Bahadur

Features Editor Vidya Balachander

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(4)

4BBC GoodFood JULY 2013

eat in

eat out

Inspiring, seasonal recipes that work every time

Restaurants on trial and cafés with character

58 7 MEALS FOR ` 700

`

A week’s worth of stylish meals

66 LUNCHBOX

Snappy lunchbox ideas

68 READY IN 30

Quick recipes ready in a jiffy

75 IN SEASON

Cooking with jamun and

shehtoot

84 MODERN VEGGIE

French fries with a twist

90 WEEKEND

Meatballs from around the world

98 ENTERTAINING

Try a Kayastha meal at home

106 SHOW OFF

Sophisticated cherry desserts

118 RESTAURANT SPY

Breakfasts on trial

126 PRO VS PUNTER

The Flying Elephant, Chennai

128 OFF THE EATEN

TRACK

The National Lodge, Chennai

132 SIGNATURE DISH

Chez Nini’s Poutine

150 SUBSCRIBE to Good Food India

118

90 PRO vs PUNTER

s

Feel like the average diner doesn’t always agree with

professional reviews? Become our punter in the

‘Pro vs Punter’ section

and review a restaurant along with a seasoned pro.

To apply, write to us at

[email protected].

Royal cherry triﬂe

Serves 8 Q1 hour 5 minutes +

chillingQ EASY

cherries 450g, reserve a few for the top and stone the rest

cherry jam340g (try Hero available at gourmet stores)

Madeiraor sponge cake r 450g, cut into 1cm-thick slices

Kirschor brandy r 100ml (available at premium liquor stores)

amaretti biscuits 5, broken

double cream300ml, whipped lightly

THE CUSTARD caster sugar 50g

cornflour 50g

vanilla extract1 tsp

eggs 2 large + 1 egg yolk

milk 300ml

double cream300ml QFirst, make the custard by tipping the caster sugar, cornﬂour and vanilla into a mixing bowl. Add the eggs and egg yolk. Whisk with a hand whisk until smooth and blended.

QPour the milk and double cream into a pan and heat gently until hot, but do not boil. Pour this over the egg mixture and immediately whisk until blended. Wash the pan to remove any scum from the milk and pour the custard back into the clean pan. Heat gently,

MAKE

OUR

COVER

RECIPE!

1

5

4

stirring constantly until thickened. Don’t panic if the custard starts to look lumpy as it thickens, just continue to heat and whisk until the custard is thick and smooth. Pour into a jug and cover the surface of the custard with cling-ﬁlm to prevent a skin from forming. Set aside to cool.

QTip the stoned cherries into a pan with half the jam or conserve and cook over a medium heat for 5-10 minutes until softened and saucy. Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly.

QSpread half the slices of the Madeira cake generously with the remaining cherry jam. Sandwich with the remaining cake slices, then cut in half. QPour the Kirsch or brandy into a shallow bowl, dip each sponge sandwich into the liqueur, then arrange in the base of the trifle dish (you will need a shallow, straight-sided, 20cm round glass dish about 5cm deep). Line the edges of the dish first to create a stripey effect, then fill in the centre with the remaining sandwiches, pouring over any remaining liquid.

QSpoon over the cherries and any juice from the pan, then scatter over the broken biscuits. Pour over the cooled custard, then spread whipped cream over the top. Decorate with fresh whole cherries and chill for a few hours, or make it a day ahead and chill for up to 24 hours before serving.

Q PER SERVING 886 kcals, protein

10g, carbs 94g, fat 50g, sat fat 29g, fibre 1g, sugar 75g, salt 0.9g

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JULY 2013 BBC GoodFood 5

70 July 2013

eat away

Foodie holiday ideas and recipes from around the world

134 EAT LIKE A LOCAL:

VIETNAM

Authentic ﬂavours from the former French colony

140 POSTCARD FROM

SINGAPORE

Karen Anand visits the World Street Food Congress

143 COOK LIKE A PRO

Sharpen your chopping

skills with a mezzaluna

144 MASTERCLASS

Diego Palladino’s step- by-step Club 9 pizza

148 DO IT YOURSELF

Dress up your brekkies

with jamun jam

149 WINE GUIDE

Robust and full-bodied

Tuscan reds

154 SHOWSTOPPER

Decadent Royal cherry triﬂe

masterclass

THE BBC GOODFOOD LEGACY

7BBC GoodFood is the UK’s largest selling food magazine with a readership of over 1.1 million.

7bbcgoodfood.com is the UK’s most popular recipe site attracting 3.7 million unique users per month.

7The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over 70,000 downloads till date.

ﬁrst bite

38 FOOD ISSUE

BBC Good Food

investigates palm oil

42 BOOKS AND COOKS

July’s must-read food tomes

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JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH

Out

&

about

Q

Bengaluru

10 OVER TO YOU

Reader recipes, comments

and letters

25 FIRST BITE

Cake pops are the dessert

du jour

28 NEWS, TRENDS AND

SHOPPING

New restaurants, trends we like and more

34 ON TEST

Frozen chicken nuggets and potato mashers

36 BARGAIN

HUNTER

Best value foodie events, meals and deals

Smoked salmon and asparagus fettuccine

134

Delhi Mumbai Singapore Q Q Q Chennai Q Q Q Vietnam

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Over to you

For top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you,

our readers, to keep us on the pulse

We love hearing from you. Email us your feedback, your favourite recipes and your comments at

[email protected]. Let’s be in touch!

Write to us!

Good Food reader Iti Mittal dishes on her favourite eateries in Ghaziabad

7

BREAKFAST Udupi Krishna (+0120 4376813) at Navyug Market is perfect for a wholesome breakfast. The fuss-free vegetarian eatery serves a superlative rawa onion dosa prepared with pure ghee. Do not forget to ask for extra

rasam on the side. Meal for two, ` 400.

7

LUNCH Head to the multi-cuisine restaurant, Cinch (+91 8527000224) at Raj Nagar for Mediterranean, Chinese or North Indian fare. The dal makhani is to die for, mopped up with mirchi lachha paratha. Skip the

Indianised Chinese and opt for the hearty Moroccan Pot Roast Chicken instead. They also offer vegetarian and non-vegetarian mezze platters. Meal for two, ` 800. Madan Sweets and Food Point (+0120 2719314) is a must visit for a post-lunch sweet treat. Try the raj bhog (` 30 for two pieces) and warm jalebis (` 12 for 100 grams). Don’t miss out on the seasonal

moong dal halwa during the winter months.

7

DINNER Visit Raja Dhaba, (+0120 2322794) a tiny, no-frills eatery for

authentic Punjabi and Mughlai fare. Sample the juicy kaju chicken with missi rotis right off the tawa. The anda paratha is a must-have. Meal for two, ` 350.

FOOD NATION

Ghaziabad

HOW YOU PIMPED IT

This recipe is perfect for a quick weekday dinner. I substituted pea pods with frozen peas since they weren’t in season and boiled them till soft before cooking. The amchoor gives this dish a lovely tangy punch. The dish is extremely simple to make but packed with delicate ﬂavours and can be served with roti or eaten by itself as a snack. Priyanka Gothi is a digital marketing professional with a leading food company who loves cooking and food photography. She lives in Gurgaon.

JOIN OUR TASTE TEAM

Our Taste Team comprises readers and home cooks

who try our recipes and give us feedback on what

they liked and what they would do differently. Write

to us at [email protected] to join us.

Chuki sabut mattar

(tender and spiced pea

pods)

Serves 8-10 Q30 minutes Q EASY

Make sure you select tender and young green peas. The full pod is cooked with tangy masala. While eating, the whole pod is put in the mouth, holding one end of the pod with the fingers. It is clenched between the front teeth, then pulled out, leaving the peas and the tender pod skin in the mouth.

ghee 2 tbsp

asafoetida (hing) a big pinch

cumin seeds 1/2 tsp

young pea pods 1kg, washed and drained

salt to taste

garam masala powder 1 1/2 tsp

red chilli powder 1 tsp

dried mango powder (amchoor)

3-4 tsp

QHeat the ghee in a wok; add the asafoetida and cumin seeds. When the seeds start crackling, add the whole pea pods.

QSprinkle salt, garam masala and red chilli powder. Reduce the heat and cook. Sprinkle water, if required. When the peas are tender, sprinkle the mango powder and mix well. Serve hot.

Q PER SERVING 137.88 kcals, protein

7.01g, carbs 18.58g, fat 4.33g, sat fat 2.24g, fibre 6.49g, salt 1g

GOOD

FOOD

STAR

RECIPE

REALLY REALLY EASY Phot ogr aph MA Y ANK SONI

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JULY 2013 BBC GoodFood 7

READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH

What’s your

favourite

comfort snack

on a rainy day?

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INSIDERS’

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POLL

Interact with other Good Food readers on Facebook at facebook.com/GoodFood MagazineIndia or follow us on Twitter at twitter.com/goodfoodmagin.

The winner of the letter of the month for this

issue wins a special festive hamper worth` 5,000 `

from Foodhall. The hamper is filled with tempting

goodies like Kalamata olives, extra virgin olive

oil, penne rigate, basil crackers , chocolate

fondue, Lemnos jalapeno cream cheese

and Jamie Oliver’s chilli salt .

To write in to the magazine, email us at bbcgog odfood@ wwm.mcoco.in and include yoyour addresss anand telephone number.

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LETTER

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The winner of the Reader Recipe of the Month wins a special gift hamper worth` 2,000 from Dalmia Continental Pvt Ltd` (DCPL), a leading company of premium wellness foods. The hamper contains an array of products from DCPL’s Leonardo brand, such as extra virgin olive oil, olive pomace oil, whole wheat pasta, premium pasta, premium pickle in olive oil, pimento stuffed olives, black sliced olives and two recipe booklets.

Good Food readerd

Mugdha Goud is a Mumbai-based management consultant who enjoys cooking. She shares the recipe for Melon trifle with us.

Melon triﬂe

Serves 4 Q20 minutes + refrigeration Q EASY

QCut 2 small

muskmelons and 1/2 a

watermelon into small cubes and preserve the juice. Add 2 tsp sugar to the fruit and chill. Use pieces of half a muskmelon and grind into a purée along with the excess juices. Add 1 tsp

lemon juice and 2 tsp

sugar.

QWhip 150ml cream till it holds soft peaks and fold in the muskmelon puree.

Spoon a layer of cut fruit in the glasses, followed by a layer of cream. Top with another layer of fruit and chill. QFor the topping, mix 30g polenta,

25g almonds, 30g sugar, 1/4 tsp

cinnamon powderrand 35g butter

in a mixer until crumbly. Spread the mixture on a baking tray and bake at

180°_{C for 10 minutes. Cool. Add 2 tbsp}

of the crisp topping on each triﬂe just before serving. Fr Fr Frenenenennchchchhfffririresese

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readers write

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In this issue

TRACEY LISTER

After spending more than 20 years as a chef in Melbourne, Australian cookery book author Tracey Lister took a sabbatical in Hanoi along with her husband Andreas Pohl. Based in the Vietnamese capital, she runs the successful Hanoi Cooking Centre, which offers cooking classes and courses in Vietnamese cuisine. Lister and her husband and co-author published their ﬁrst book KOTO – A Culinary Journey through

Vietnam in 2008, followed by Vietnamese Street Food in 2011. d

Tracey takes you on a culinary tour of Vietnam with a menu of

authentic recipes in Eat like a Local on

p 134.

ASHWIN RAJAGOPALAN

hwin Rajagopalan is a Chennai-based freelance writer

d blogger with a passion for travel and food. His writings

ve appeared in

GQ India and other publications. By his own

scription, he goes the extra mile to discover a new culinary

perience but is equally fascinated

by traditional cuisine and

dacious reinterpretations of classic dishes. Rajagopalan

gives Chennai’s unassuming — but excellent — National Lodge the status it deserves in Off the Eaten Track on p 128.

PREETA MATHUR

Preeta Mathur is a Noida-based food columnist whose rece

book is The Courtly Cuisine: Kayastha Kitchens Through Ind

Mathur, who belongs to the Kayastha community, pays trib

to her culinary legacy in this book that brings together Kayastha dishes from across India. Uncover the earthy ﬂavours of her distinctive recipes in Entertaining, on p 98.

NIRA SINGH

Nira Singh is the proprietor and chef of Chez Nini in Delhi, a restaurant that bears her childhood nickname and specialises in French-Canadian cuisine. Born and brought up in Montreal, Singh considers growing up in the city a culinary and cultural privilege. She trained to become a professional chef at the ITHQ (Institute of Hotel and Tourism of Quebec) and completed her training at several restaurants in Montreal. Singh shares the recipe for Chez Nini’s signature Poutine in Signature Dish on p 132.

DIEGO PALLADINO

Chef Diego Palladino is the International Brand Owner of the UK-based Pizza Metro Pizza chain. He set up its ﬁrst Indian outpost in Mumbai in 2012. After working with establishments like The Ritz in London and Lido in Paris, he acquired Pizza Metro Pizza in 2003. The trattoria has since won the UK PAPA (The Pizza Pasta & Italian Food Association) award and Hardens award for best pizza in London. He teaches you how to make the chain’s popular Club 9 pizza from scratch in Masterclass on p 144.

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first bite

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Juicy cherries bring a summertime spirit to desserts. Make the most of them with our showstoppers

VIETNAM

With its perfect balance of hot, sweet, spicy and sour elements, Vietnam’s stunning food is best enjoyed on its chaotic streets

Text, recipes and photographs adapted from VIETNAMESE STREET FOOD and KOTO: A CULINARY JOURNEY THROUGH VIETNAM by TRACEY LISTER and ANDREAS POHL Photographs by MICHAEL FOUNTOULAKIS Published by HARDIE GRANT BOOKS

It is often said that life in Vietnam happens on the streets. This is particularly true in the overcrowded inner cities, where it sometimes seems that the Vietnamese conduct their daily life, if not exclusively on the sidewalk, then in plain view of the streets. Eating on the street also plays an important part in daily life.

The Vietnamese version of alfresco dining is such a natural extension of street life, so widespread and common, that it is easy to overlook how fairly recent the phenomenon of the so-called

com bui, literally ‘dust meals’, really is.

Traditionally, family meals at home were sacred, but historical upheavals and changes in work practices created an eating culture with roving food vendors and street stalls to feed the hungry masses away from their houses. The wars for national independence against the French and the Americans from 1945 to 1975 displaced scores of people. These changes revolutionised not only the way the country was run, but also the way the country ate.

Kerbside dining ﬁts Vietnam’s collectivist culture of doing things together. Eating alone is frowned upon. Even if one eats alone, one isn’t lonely, but connected to fellow diners and the surrounding community.

The shift from eating at home or in more upmarket restaurants to casual kerbside dining also marks a transition

KOTO: A Culinary Journey through Vietnam ism available from flipkart.com for ` 2,006. Vietnamese Street Food isd available from amazon.com for ` 1,120. `

Noodle soup with chicken

Serves 6 Q1 hour 10 minutes + simmering QEASY

Pho ga was invented during the

Japanese occupation in the 1940s when beef was very hard to come by, which is why this dish is sometimes considered the poor cousin of the more famous beef noodle soup, pho bo. This is a lighter, easier variation of pho. red Asian shallots8

ginger, a 4cm knob, halved

whole chicken 1.6kg

salt1 tsp

cinnamon 1 stick

star anise4

sugar 2 tbsp

fish sauce1 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores)

noodles300g, raw

spring onions3, sliced + 3, cut into strips from a feudal, class-ridden society to a more equal one— a new society where peasants and civil servants, students and shop owners can share a bench and slurp their noodle soups side by side.

Pho bo or beef noodle soup is

probably the closest the country has to a national dish. Said to have originated in the northern Nam Dinh province, it consists of rice noodles in a rich broth, topped with ﬁnely sliced beef, shallots, beansprouts, basil and a generous dollop of chilli sauce. Pho with chicken o

(pho ga (() was initially considered a soup for women and children, and before 1945, only one stall in Hanoi made

pho ga. Nowadays, the soup is a

well-loved alternative to the heavy pho bo, particularly during summer. Although

pho is originally a northern Vietnamese o

dish, it has been adopted by the south and the recipes changed in the process. Hot on the heels of pho is theobun cha – chargrilled pork patties ﬂoating ina

a tangy dipping sauce, served with cold vermicelli (bun) and an assortment of herbs and salad leaves. It is often served with nem ran, fried spring rolls, on a separate plate. While pho is traditionally o

a breakfast or early dinner, bun cha ﬁrmly occupies the lunchtime slot. The French left Vietnam in 1954, but they left behind an enduring love for fresh, crusty baguettes, banh mi. Here, baguettes are made from a wheat and rice ﬂour mixture, which results in very airy bread that has a thin, crisp

eat like a local

MENU FOR 6 7Noodle soup with

chicken

7Green mango salad

7Lemongrass tofu

7Caramel fish with galangal

7Fruit cups

Club 9

Makes 2 large pizzas Q 30 minutes + resting Q MODERATELY EASY

The pairing of okra and potato in a pizza is unusual, but it definitely works. The fried okra provides a wonderfully crisp contrast to the mushy potatoes and the salty cheese. yeast3 tsp

warm water 1 1/2 cups

extra virgin olive oil1 tbsp

strong plain flour 4 cups, sifted

salt2 tsp

THE TOPPINGS olive oil3 tbsp + extra for greasing

fresh mozzarella100g, chopped (try Impero available at gourmet stores)

onions60g, sliced and fried

potatoes6, cubed and oven roasted with olive oil and rosemary

okra50g, fried to a crisp

basil leaves6 + 6 more to garnish

green chillies3-5, ﬁnely chopped

breadcrumbsa handful

goat’s cheese 20g

parmesan 2 tbsp, grated DIEGO PALLADINO’S

Masterclass

Chef Diego Palladino, International Brand Owner of Pizza Metro Pizza, guides you step by step on how to make the pizzeria’s innovative Club 9 pizza

Recipe DIEGO PALLADINO Photographs PAROMA MUKHERJEE

PIZZA MAKING TIPS

Q The resting time for the dough depends on the weather. Colder climates demand longer proving hours while warm climates call for 15 minutes or less.

Q Knead the dough well and make it springy enough to stretch it out.

Q If it looks too wet initally, don’t add extra ﬂour. Wait until all the ﬂour is evenly mixed into the yeast and then add more if required. Avoid drying out the dough. EXCLUSIVE!

STEP-BY-STEP RECIPES Watch a bonus videoof Pizza Metro Pizza’s Cicciobomb

a pizza. Details on p 20

Get to know us

Our five easy-to-navigate sections enable you to find exactly what you are looking for.

Here’s what you can expect to see in every issue of Good Food India:

7 First Bite

Our opening section is the perfect appetiser for the pages that follow.

First Bite brings you the month’s freshest food buzz — new launches,

events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and

more. In every issue we spotlight local produce in season in Need To

Know. And our Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important

food issues to bring you insights that really matter to you. P 25

7 Eat In

The largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recipes

with little tips and tricks that are perfect for the home cook. Each recipe is

triple-tested by us so you get it right the very first time you make it. We’ve

got everything covered — from easy everyday dinners and show-off menus

for the weekend to modern veggie dishes and kid-friendly recipes bursting

with flavours. P 57

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QPreheat the oven to 180°C. Grease and line the base and sides of a 20cm round cake tin with butter paper. Line a large oven tray with butter paper too. QUsing an electric mixer beat the sugar and 125g butter in a bowl until pale and creamy. Slowly add the eggs, beating well between each addition. Sift the flour and cocoa powder over the butter mixture, and stir to combine. Spoon into the prepared pan and smoothen the surface. Bake for 35-40 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Turn onto a wire rack to cool completely. QMeanwhile, combine 200g dark cooking chocolate and the remaining butter in a medium bowl over a saucepan of simmering water (do not let the water touch the base of the bowl). Stir the mixture occasionally with a metal spoon, for 5 minutes or until smooth and glossy. Remove from heat, and set aside for 30 minutes, or until slightly thickened and cooled. QBreak the cake into pieces and place them into the bowl of a food processor. Process until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Place in a large bowl and add the chocolate mixture. Stir until well combined. QRoll tablespoons of the cake mixture into balls and place on the lined tray. Refrigerate for 3 hours or until firm. QPlace the other 375g dark compound chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water and stir with a spoon so that it melts. Add vegetable oil and stir to combine. QDip the end of one skewer in the chocolate then insert into a ball. Return to the tray. Repeat with the remaining balls, and rest for 5 minutes or until set. QDip a cake ball into melted chocolate, turning to coat, and tap gently on

the side of the bowl to remove excess. Insert the skewer in the Styrofoam to set. Repeat with remaining balls and chocolate. Set aside for 30 minutes to set. QTo make pops with a white chocolate coating, place the white compound chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water and stir with a spoon so that it melts. Remove from heat and set aside for 5 minutes to cool slightly. QSpoon a little melted chocolate over the top of each cake pop. Top with some white chocolate. Decorate with chocolate chips and chocolate sprinkles. Return to Styrofoam to set completely. TIPS QThe cake pops should ideally be dipped in compound chocolate rather than pure chocolate, since the former doesn’t need tempering and will not melt at room temperature. QIf you are pressed for time, you can use Pillsbury’s Funfetti Cake Pop Mix, available on zansaar.com. (Sprinkles and other decorating material is available at Arife Stores in Mumbai, or on websites like gourmetco.in and bakersmart.co.in) eat ea

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7 Eat Out

This section stands out for its uniquely-positioned restaurant reviews

and features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach

to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food India

reader to go undercover and rate a restaurant together with an expert. Plus,

we get leading chefs from around the country to simplify their signature

recipes to make at home.

P 117

7 Eat Away

Our seasoned travel journalists and food experts (who often live in the

featured locations) arm you with insider information and recipes from

the world’s most exciting food destinations. Eat Like A Local brings easy,

authentic menus from around the world while Budget and Blowout shows

you how to get your wallet’s worth when travelling. And City On the Plate

features the insider’s food guide to an Indian or international city. P 133

7 Masterclass

Learn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. Pick up cooking lessons

directly from culinary masters in India and abroad. Make

restaurant-perfect dishes and pick up fine dining finishing touches of chefs through

illustrated step-by-step recipes in Chef Skills. We also feature nifty kitchen

gadgets that sharpen your kitchen skills and our 10-minute wine guide is

perfect for wine lovers. P 144

Does an average diner reach the same conclusions about a restaurant as a food pro who might be recognised and get special treatment? Good Food reader Jaya Chaturvedi and food writer d

Karen Anand have their own takes on The Flying Elephant in Chennai

vs

THE FLYING ELEPHANT The Flying Elephant at Park Hyatt is an opulent ﬁne dining restaurant offering inventive Turkish, Southeast Asian and Indian fare. It is spread over seven levels including a private lounge area, a vibrant al fresco dining space and six interactive kitchens. The menu features delicacies such as Chilean sea bass, a range of Turkish grills, Chicken Satay with Peanut and Chilli Sauce, Chestnut Tagliatelle, pavlovas and an eclectic list of Prohibition-era cocktails. QThe Flying Elephant, Park Hyatt Chennai, 39, Velachery Road, Near Raj Bhavan, Chennai. Tel: +91 44 71771234. Daily 7 pm onwards. Average spend for two:` 3,000.`

Pushy table turning? No

Regular water offered? Yes

Veggie options??Plenty to choose from

THE PRO

Karen Anandis a Pune-based food writer, entrepreneur and consultant. She recently organised the Indian chapter of the international Taste festival in Mumbai.

THE SERVICE

As expected, the service is efﬁcient with well-informed managers on hand and chefs happy to step out of their designated areas to help you navigate through the food menu and speakeasy-inspired cocktail menu. FIRST S IMPRPP ESSISS ONIINNS

Much has been written about The Flying Elephant since its launch in March this year. Given the whacky name, the press blitz and Hyatt’s reputation for great food, my expectations are high. But The Flying Elephant is quite different. Boasting six interactive kitchens and a culinary theatre, it resembles Studio 54 in New York: a multistoried vision in glass with seating, bars and open kitchens on all floors and staff that belt out the chorus of a popular song. It’s a happening place that could well be in NYC — something I least expect to find in Chennai. It is calculated carelessness in an orchestrated five-star sort of way, and it works. The restaurant, located at the lobby level of the Park Hyatt, is exquisitely designed. Spanning multiple levels, the lowermost one is a lounge area while the rest exudes a very casual vibe. The outdoor seating is lovely but tends to get a bit warm during the Chennai summer. The tables in the lounge remind me of a warm and cosy English bar, but the DJ belting out club tracks is a bit of a damp squib and the soundtrack does not complement the otherwise charming ambience at all.

The service is a tad lacklustre, though the staff is extremely courteous. There is a need for more efﬁciency — it takes me quite a few minutes to catch a server’s eye for something as simple as a reﬁll of ice and we are left to fend for ourselves in the interim. The service doesn’t keep pace with the pleasant ambience and doesn’t justify the money that one has to shell out for a meal.

THE RESTAURANT

THE PUPP NTER

Jaya Chaturvedi is a Chennai-based banker who eats out regularly and keeps tab of trends in food and dining.

THE FOOD This is really where The Flying Elephant reigns supreme. If you can get past the theatrics of the vertical dining, the blanket of glass and staff singing away, the food is outstanding. There are tasting menus for the uninitiated. The menu itself is simple enough — appetisers, soups, vegetarian main courses, shellfish, pizza, poultry and so on. I share the Peruvian Green Asparagus with Truffle Salsa and Parmigiano Reggiano shavings. Priced close to ` 1,000, it` isn’t cheap but is perfectly executed: thick batons of juicy green asparagus are lightly grilled and the truffle salsa isn’t overpowering. We also try the Pan Fried Calamari with Chorizo, Artichokes and Bell Peppers. It reminds me of southern Spanish tapas. The raw artichokes are thinly sliced, lightly grilled and drizzled with a little olive oil. The quality is superb and the simplicity, stunning. For mains, I have the Pan Fried Chilean Sea Bass with Fresh Fennel and a Lemon Sabayon, which tastes like a light hollandaise emulsion. The portion is large for such an expensive fish but is so delicious and so perfectly cooked that I actually manage to finish it! No room for sides, cereals or any dessert. Instead, I treat myself to another cocktail. The Fallen Angel, with champagne, elderflower liqueur and lychee is a winner. I then try Happily Ever After, a long drink with crushed grapes, Chardonnay and Absolut vodka.

THE VERDICT The food is outstanding and the ambience is highly charged and especially exciting on a Saturday night. However, the food is not the lone star here — the overall ‘happening’ vibe shines as well.

THE BILL Anand’s meal for two including two cocktails, appetisers and a main course was` 4,000 ` excluding taxes. FOOD: 9/10 ATMOSPHERE: 8/10 SERVICE: 8/10 TOTAL: 25/30 GO AGAIN? For sure!

The restaurant serves Indian, Mediterranean and European cuisine. We order the Warm Mezze Platter that includes stuffed phyllo, zucchini fritters, falafels, dips and pita bread. The falafels are crisp and make for an excellent accompaniment to the pita bread. The zucchini fritters are my pick from this platter, which has great flavours but is not innovative enough. For mains, my companion orders Chicken Biryani that is very sportingly prepared by the chef, even though it is not listed on the menu. It is flavourful and perfectly spiced. We also order the Paneer with Spinach and Pistachio in a Roasted Onion Gravy, which is creamy and delicious. The fresh flavour of the spinach is complemented by the earthiness of the pistachios and the richness of the onion gravy. The Dal Makhani is creamy but needs more spice. The dessert, however, is flawless. The Tiramisu is perfect, with the coffee and mascarpone in perfect harmony. Overall, the food appears appetising and tastes good too, but is slightly bland for those who have a preference for spicy fare. Though the flavours are perfect, no dish grabs my attention and the waitstaff are not forthcoming with suggestions either.

Chaturvedi’s meal for two including an appetiser, two mains and a dessert was ` 3,000 excluding taxes. FOOD: 6/10 ATMOSPHERE: 9/10 SERVICE: 6/10 TOTAL: 21/30 GO AGAIN? Not really. It is too expensive, the food is average and the service slow.

Dining at The Flying Elephant doesn’t live up to my expectations. While the ambience is excellent and the food is reasonably good, the service is average. The menu largely leans towards European cuisine, and offers more variety to a non-vegetarian than a vegetarian. The club music is deﬁnitely a mood killer.

Want to review a restaurant? For a chance to become Good Food’s next punter, email a 200-word review of any restaurant you’ve visited, with the heading ‘Pro vs Punter’, to [email protected] with your contact details. You could be the lucky one! neer t aneer tiikikka

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eat out restaurant reviews

(10)

Meetha chawal (sweetened rice)

Serves 8-10 Q1 hour Q EASY This sweet and fragrant rice dessert is cooked with dry fruits, sugar and flavoured with saffron. A delicious alternative to milky rice kheer! THE ONE-STRAND SUGAR SYRUP sugar 750gr water 300ml r saffron, a pinch dissolved in warm water THE RICE cloves 8-10

Phirni (thickened rice pudding)

Serves 6-8 Q35 minutes Q EASY Cold phirni served in earthen bowls ll with nuts is an excellent, cooling dessert. The aroma of the clay bowls lends a unique earthy flavour. full-cream milk 1l rice 3 tbsp, soaked in water for 1 hour, drained, and ground to a paste sugar 250g, powdered green cardamoms 5, powdered raisins 10 rosewater 1 tbspr saffron a big pinch, s

oaked in 2 tbsp warm water almonds 20, blanched, skinned and slivered pistachios 10, blanched, skinned and slivered QBoil the milk in a he

avy-bottomed pot; add the rice paste. Stir constantly with a whisk, so that there are no lumps. QWhen it is thick and cr

eamy, add the yy sugar and cardamom powder. Add the raisins, rosewater and saffron mixture; mix well. QPour into earthen bowls (shakoras) or silver bowls. Serve sprinkled with slivered almonds and pistachios. Q PER SERVING 236.63 kcals, protein 5g, carbs 42.49g, fat 5.66g, sat fat 3g, fibre 0.5g, salt none cinnamon a 1-inch stick, halved

green cardamoms 10 basmati rice 3 cups khoya 250g, crumbled dried fruits (almond, pistachios and charoli) 2 tbsp, slivered ghee 200g saffron a big pinch, dissolved in 7-8 drops of screw pine w

ater (kevda) or rosewater QTo make the syrup, boil the sugar and water together. Stir constantly to avoid the sugar from crystallising. Add the saffron mixture and keep aside. This will take 30 minutes. QBoil 2 1/2 litres of water along

with the cloves, cinnamon, green cardamoms and rice. QCook the rice and dr

ain in a colander. Remove the whole spices. Heat the one-strand sugar syrup. Add the rice and stir gently for a minute. Cook for 10 minutes till all the liquid is reduced. QAdd the khoya, dried fruits, ghee and saffron mixture. Serve garnished with silver leaves (optional). Q PER SERVING 973.5 kcals, protein 8.42g, carbs 180.55g, fat 27.23g, sat fat 16.41g, fibre 0.42g, salt 0.1g

REALLY R REALLY EASYY

How to get the best

from Good Food India

THE GOOD FOOD INDIA

PROMISE

We hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restaurant reviews and travel features. We attempt to make them fun to read, but we are also serious about eating well and doing it sustainably. Here’s what you can expect from this and every issue:

TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPES All our recipes are tested

at least three times. For great results, we recommend you use standard level measuring spoons, and don’t mix imperial and metric measures.

EASY RECIPESMost of Good Food’s recipes are quick and simple to follow and can be made using easily available ingredients.

THE ODD CHALLENGE Weekends are perfect for

elaborate meals and entertaining. We’ve included a smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy a good challenge.

GOOD VALUELook out for our recipes that aim to make the most of your budget — 7 meals for ` 700. We also use ` full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid waste, but if that’s not possible we aim to suggest ways of using up leftovers.

SEASONAL EATING We love using seasonal ingredients in our recipes because they give the food a distinct ﬂavour and add seasonal freshness. This month, we’re eating a lot of jamun and shehtoot.

HEALTHY EATING We reckon the 80% sensible, 20%

indulgent way of eating is best which is why we support our recipes with nutritional info. We’ll also tell you how to give popular recipes a healthy makeover.

PROVENANCE MATTERS Where possible, we use humanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs, sustainably sourced ﬁsh and unreﬁned sugar.

INTERNATIONAL SAVVYY Sometimes, recipes call for ingredients that aren’t available locally and can’t be brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. It’s your choice whether or not you use them.

CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS Hole-in-the-wall

eateries and ﬁne dining restaurants — there’s room for both in Good Food’s Eat Out pages.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE The Eat Away section arms you with insider info and recipes from the world’s most exciting food destinations written by on-the-ground food journalists.

BIG ISSUES Preaching doesn’t come naturally, so we won’t tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we keep you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food world in our Good Food Investigates feature. We tell you why palm oil consumption is a matter of concern on p 38.

Why you can cook our

recipes with confidence

y y

All the recipes in Good Food are tested thoroughly, so they’ll work the ﬁrst time for you at home. Most of our recipes are developed in the Good Food test kitchen by our cookery team or come from food writers and chefs. We aim to make our recipes as practical as possible, keeping ingredient lists to a minimum and avoiding lengthy preparations.

How we triple test

our recipes

p

1

The ﬁrst time is by the recipe writer,

who tests the recipe in a domestic kitchen.

2

Next, a member of the cookery

team makes the recipe in the Good Food India kitchen.

3

The recipe is then tested at our

photo shoot. Some recipes are

tested a fourth time at home by individual members of the Good Food editorial team — we’re all keen cooks and often can’t resist trying out a recipe we particularly love, as soon as we’ve discovered it.

Testing our recipes three times or more may seem over-cautious, but mistakes can be costly, so we think it makes sense to ensure you get the right result every time.

FOR SKILLED COOKSS REALLY REALLY REALLY QUICKK REALLY R REALLY EASYY

Show-off recipes when you fancy a challenge. These recipes require a little effort. Recipes that can be made under 20 minutes. Perfect for hectic weekdays. Those recipes marked with this stamp are the simplest and require very little effort.

What our symbols

mean

EASY Recipes everyone can make,

even beginners. These dishes are usually quick, often on the table within 20 minutes.

MODERATELY EASY These require

a bit more skill – for example making and rolling out pastry.

A LITTLE EFFORT

Recipes aimed at experienced cooks who cook for pleasure and like a challenge.

CAN BE FROZEN Unless otherwise

stated, freeze for up to three months. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot.

BBC GoodFood India 2013-07

JULY 2013

C

100

eat in

7

eat out

7

eat away

EAT OUT

EAT AWAY

Eat like a

Vietnamese

Street Food

Congress,

Singapore

India

80

+

TRIPLE-

TESTED



RECIPES

French fries

reinvented

Cooking with

Indian berries

Breakfasts

on trial

Chez Nini’s

signature

Poutine

clever comfort food

Royal cherry triﬂ e p 154

7

Lotus-stem pakodas

7

Spinach rarebits

7

Harissa lamb stew

7

Achari meatballs

7

Cherry trifle

pudding

READER OFFER!

20% off

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book The Courtly Cuisine

MASTERCLASS

Diego Palladino's

Club 9 pizza

p 144

ERCLASS

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