A Basic Diesel Tool Kit
When you are starting your career as a diesel technician, you will need to stock your toolbox. Even if you have worked on diesel engines as a hobby and have accumulated some diesel tools, it’s important to be sure you are now purchasing professional grade tools as hobby grade tools are not satisfactory for your new occupation.
As you move along in your career, you will keep adding to your set of tools. Some of these additions will be necessary due to changing technology and other times it will occur as you desire to increase your ability to do a job better or faster. Here’s a list of some basic tools to start:
General:
Rolling toolbox (5-12 drawers) Tape measure
Circuit tester
250 psi tire tester Flashlight
Mechanic’s creeper Steel wire brush O-ring pick set Gasket scraper
Rolling head pry bar
Safety glasses (OSHA approved) Telescope magnet (4€-9€) Hacksaw
Electrical:
Multi-meter
Battery terminal cleaner Test light 12V
Terminal back probes
Digital caliper (6€ range)
Pliers: Standard Needlenose Wire stripper Crimper Diagonal cutter Retaining ring
Vise grip (7€ curved jaw & 10€ curved jaw) 14€ lock ring
Sockets sets:
¼ with ratchet and extensions
3/16†– ½†(including metric) shallow 12 pt
12 pt – metric ½ dr
12 pt – standard deep pocket ½ dr, ¾ – 1 ¼ Socket adaptor set
Wrenches: Combination ¼†– 1 ¼â€) Flare nut (3/8†– ¾â€) Metric combo 12 pt (10-19mm) Adjustable 12†Screwdrivers:
Phillips head set (#1, #2, #3)
Regular slotted set (1/4†x 6â€; 5/16†x 9â€; 3/8†x 12â€; stubby)
Hex key sets Files:
6â€
10†(double cut)
10†(course; round, bastard cut) hacksaw
Hammers:
Dead blow (24 oz or 2 lb) Ball peen (12 or 16 oz) Cross peen (32 oz)
Pin punch (1/8†and ¼â€) Center punch (3/8â€)
Chisel (1/4†and ½â€) Starter punch (3/8â€) Brass drift
The most common specialty
screw bits & drives in the
Automotive & Diesel Industry
I have heard mechanics complain that the tool companies are responsible for them having to buy another set of over priced specialty bits. In regards to this, the tool companies may think that the automotive industry is coming up with another way to keep the owner or independent garage from working on their own car/truck. Sometimes in my own opinion I think that someone let the ‘just out of college’ engineer show off a little. No matter who is right, they are in the vehicles that need to be fixed so we have to figure out how to get them out and not destroy them in the process.
Unfortunately this is not a new problem. I do a lot of restoration work on vehicles and tractors that were made before the great depression. They loved square drives. Not bad if it is 3/8†or ½† – just use an extension. For the odd balls, I found this old tool years ago, or you can make a bit with a damaged extension and a grinder. Unfortunately if you buy these already made off the tool truck, expect to miss  your next house payment.
For years the most common specialty drive was the Hex. It was either a slotted, Phillips or Hex. They come in both SAE and Metric. Nothing too exciting.
I remember when I first ran into my first Torx bit. This was my first indication that someone at GM was a total ( can’t really say what I want). This became a standard bit for years. Then someone figured out how to make everyone’s life miserable again and put a pin in the middle and called it Tamper Proof Torx.  Everyone else saw it as “great – now more bits to buy.”
 This is a triple square socket. It is used in high torque situations. It is often confused with the double hex drive. The triple square is also known as the XZN. If you look at the top of the bit, it is three squares placed at a 30 degree rotation.
This is a Double Hex Drive. It has two coaxial offset hexes – not as easy to see with the naked eye. I usually follow – look at the top – can I lay three boxes across the face. Yes – triple square, not double hex drive.
This is the pentacle drive. So much for it – if looks like a duck.. quacks like a duck. You have to count the points. This is often confused with a Torx.
This is the ribe drive. It can not really be mistaken for anything else besides a bit you do not have in your tool box.
This is a mortorq. This is being used in more and more interiors.
This last socket is the Torx Plus. It is just like the torx but a little larger and beefier. You can not remove these with a standard torx but hopefully the extra material will keep the
bits from breaking as often. When I talked with our in house automotive expert, he asked if I wanted the top bits or wanted to write a book. I am still looking for that spline bit but was told it was used in aviation. I do not want to begin to open that can of worms, plus it might get me on some kind of watch list (again). If I have anything wrong please let me know.
On a parting note… one of my biggest fears is that if anything ever happens to me, that my wife will sell my crap for what I told her I paid for it.
Why Do I Need a Nexiq
Pro-link IQ Hand-held Diagnostic
Tool?
Technicians have a huge selection of diagnostic hand tools to help them do their jobs. What makes one tool better than another? Find out why selecting the Nexiq brand is a smart choice for technicians.
Car technicians have a lot of choices when it comes to diagnostics tools. If you are in the market for a hand-held vehicle diagnostic tool, you should definitely consider the Nexiq brand. Nexiq developed the Pro-Link IQ to be the new standard in diagnostic equipment by closely listening to their end users: the service technicians that actually use them. The end result is that the Pro-Link IQ is easy to use and easy to understand. The Pro-Link IQ uses very simple menus and message screens to direct the user through the available diagnostic tests which include engine tests, transmission tests, drive-ability tests, ABS tests and others.
Should a technician need assistance, there is a demo to guide them that is accessible right through the Pro-Link IQ. Still can’t figure it out? No problem. You can call or email the technical support team at Nexiq for answers. Nexiq also maintains a comprehensive technical support library that can be accessed right through their web site.
Besides the ease in day to day use, the Nexiq Pro-Link IQ is simple to set up. You begin by installing the Companion software onto your computer from the disc. Once the software has been installed, you connect your Pro-Link IQ to the computer with a USB cable. Follow the steps shown on the computer to complete the installation.
The Pro-Link IQ can be connected to specific HP Photosmart printers through the USB port so that the technicians can print out the test data to share with customers or for benchmarking purposes.
If you’re not familiar with the Nexiq brand, you can be assured of the quality by their reputation. Talk to other
technicians who have worked with the Nexiq line. The Nexiq Pro-Link IQ is made in the USA. In fact, all the Nexiq hand products are manufactured in the USA.
If you are ready to learn more about the state of the art Nexiq Pro-Link IQ diagnostic tools, you can read more about them on the Nexiq web site. If you’re ready to make a purchase, then be sure you’re buying the Pro-Link IQ from an authorized distributor like Apex Tools.
The Most Common Diesel Liner
Pullers
The newest liner puller to hit the market is the liner pack puller, M30150 . This liner puller is designed to pull the liner and piston/con rod as a unit. This puller consists of an expandable sleeve usually equipped with heavy duty o-rings to grab the inside of the cylinder liner. This liner puller was developed because the new con rods can not pass through the liner and have to be removed from the bottom.
The most popular of all liner pullers is the Universal Liner Puller M50010-A. This liner puller has spring loaded adjustable legs. You simply drop the liner puller in the top of most wet liners and it springs out and grabs the bottom of the liner. Support legs press against the top of the block when the puller screw lifts the liner.
The Button liner puller is almost a thing of the past – M30020. Â Â These were primary used on the 71 & 92 Detroit diesels. They spring out and provide a stop for the piston. You then rotate the engine and the piston pushes the liner out.
The oldest liner puller on the market is the puller plate liner puller, M20105. These come in both manual and hydraulic. They work by dropping a plate down to the bottom of the liner mounted on a swivel. At the bottom of the
liner the plate swivels and grabs the liner. Force is applied to the screw/rod and the liner is pulled upwards. This is the safest method of removing a dry liner.
As with everything, there are shade tree methods. I have seen a jack and a 4X4 placed at the bottom of the liner. The entire truck is jacked up and the liner is heated or a weld is run up the liner until it pops out and the truck crashes to the ground. Usually most homemade liner pullers take the form of one of the above.
Popular Diesel Tools
Today some friends and I (all mechanics) were talking about the nicest tools to have as diesel mechanics. The ones that make life so much easier if you have them but make you want to consider a career change if you don’t. I just want to give you a breakdown of the tools we discussed and why they are so valuable. First and foremost, is the basic multimeter. If you plan on working on any vehicle, your or not, you really want to have one of these. Today’s automobiles have computers
with sensors, switches and relays. If one of those goes wrong it can throw off the entire engine. I mean everything. A good
multimeter will include modes for checking A/C, D/C, continuity, ohms and amps. Often times a problem will be electrical rather than mechanical. If you don’t have one of these you can forget it.
Next is a baring socket. Most people probably have never heard of this thing. If you need to find top dead center (TDC), you can try bumping the engine but that task is almost impossible in a diesel. TDC is used to time certain fuel pumps, well almost all heavy equipment fuel pumps. A baring socket slides in to interlock with the flywheel to slowly turn the crankshaft so the desired piston will be at top of it’s reach. There by allowing you to time that particular injector. It is also a pretty easy way to determine the stroke of a piston.
Compression testers are an invaluable tool to have if you are working on a diesel, especially one that is lacking horsepower. Since diesel engines rely on compression to achieve combustion, if you start to lose compression you will before long lose combustion. In addition to lacking in horsepower, fuel mileage will be lost too due to the wasted fuel that is getting injected into the cylinder and not being burned. Also, a serious compression issue will result in hard starting and the untimely death of a starter. A compression tester will also help you to determine if you have a glow plug problem or a compression issue to avoid the guess work of diagnosing a starting problem.
A double flaring tool kit is also nice to have. To be honest, this is not something you really miss until you need it and don’t have it. Flaring kits provide ease in re-flaring a fuel line, brake lines or other steel or copper lines that may kink or get broken. I’m not aware of any other way or tool to achieve a double flare. Some people will opt for a single flare, thereby decreasing the strength of the flare by at
least half, resulting in future problems. Last on the list of most popular tools is a set of line wrenches. They look like box end wrenches but with a notch cut out of them. Anyone who had ever had to loosen a fuel line on a diesel will swear by these things. They allow you to lift up the wrench to turn it to get a better bite without actually having to take the wrench off the line. If you’ve ever done this with an open end wrench you’ll understand. They work just as well for any other purpose that a regular wrench would be used for too but with the added benefit of expanding your options. Every diesel mechanic should have a set of these in their box. You won’t be sorry.
Using Diesel Tools for Glow
Plugs in Diesel Mechanics
In the time I’ve spent as a mechanic, (primarily a diesel mechanic) I learned a few unconventional tricks and a lot of lessons. I usually find myself dealing with problems such as broken or “mushroomed†glow plugs. This issue comes when carbon continues for long periods of time to cake on the glow plug since diesels are famous for smoking and being not-so environmentally friendly. The glow plugs are not actually mushroomed but they do fit (when new) into a nice tight hole so when they start to accumulate carbon buildup, they get thicker at the end, we call that being mushroomed. The next thing that usually involuntarily takes place during the removal process is breakage. You don’t really have a lot of options when you get to this. When breakage does occur, you have two options, neither is very favorable.
Option one, since you now have a piece of glow plug broken off inside the cylinder, and that can’t stay there, you can remove the head. Heads are famous for being heavy, placed at angles as to not be user friendly, they usually have other parts of the engine that need to be removed just to get to them and they are very, very picky about how they are reinstalled. You have specific torque specs and you have to tighten the bolts in a certain order. We will discuss this topic in a later issue.
Option two, you can drain the oil from the pan (which is usually very easy), disconnect the oil pan from the block, disconnect the piston that is housing the broken glow plug from the crankshaft since there are only two bolts and they are very easy to get to also, then just pull the piston straight down out of the cylinder. Once you get the piston out, the glow plug piece will fall right out.
Now that you have the culprit it’s time to put this thing back together. I know a lot of people who think the worst job in the world of engines is to reinstall a piston. This however, is an easy task if you have the right tools. The particular tool that I love is a piston ring compressor. It’s cheap, easy to use and there not hard to find. In addition to the ring compressor you really don’t need any other tools besides a good socket set with extensions. It’s good to have standard and metric since some manufacturers chose to use both. Also, a rubber or wooden mallet is almost a must have.
So, you have the piston out and the glow plug piece is removed. Now you have to reinstall it. Just loosen the tightening bolt on the side of the ring compressor and slide it over the piston, making sure that your oil rings are offset properly to reduce blow by. Once that is on, tighten the ring compressor until it’s good and snug and the rings are compressed fully. Be sure to keep about a half inch of piston above the ring compressor to assist in guiding the piston
home. Install the piston into the bottom of the cylinder until the ring compressor is seated against. the block. With the mallet, lightly tap on the bottom of the piston assembly or piston wrist. The piston will slide right into the cylinder as long as you are sure to keep the ring compressor against the block. Once you feel the piston slide into the cylinder and the rings are seated inside the cylinder the compressor will slide right down. Now just slide the piston up and/or down to realign it with the crankshaft and replace the lower portion of the piston wrist around the crankshaft. Make sure you tighten the bolts to mfg specs. Replace your oil pan and refill with oil. Now you have successfully fixed the problem. See our Diesel Tools to find the right tools for this job
How Diesel Tool Mechanic
Schools Work
Diesel mechanics are generally bus or truck mechanics. They work on a wide range of diesel engines, like those found on buses, bulldozers, trucks, cranes, RVs tractors, and sometimes trains. Training incompasses the use of diesel truck engines, heavy equipment vehicles and bus fleets. The mechanic will learn all about auto engines, repaireof diesel fuel ignition systems, emissions diesel power trains, brakes, transmission, electronic technology fundamentals and advanced diagnostic systems. Diesel Mechanic Schools provide students with the necessary practical training, to prepare them for the future. A diesel mechanic will be trained to use a wide assortment of power tools, lathes, machine tools and grinding machines.
years of training, but authorities suggest the completion of an official diesel engine mechanic training program. Employers prefer hiring people who have completed formal diesel engine training programs.
One of the features of the Directory of Schools is the Diesel Repair School Program. Programs differ in the level of practical training that they offer on equipment. Some programs provide about 30 hours of training every week on equipment, while other programs provide more of classroom training. Training establishes a concrete foundation when it comes to modern diesel technology, repairing of diesel engine vehicles and equipment that technicians will come across on the job. The remaining diesel mechanics serviced vehicles and other equipment for manufacturing and construction companies.
Diesel Engines & Tools
Since we here at Apex Tool Company specialize in supplying our customers with the highest quality Diesel Tools, we thought we’d share a bit of diesel history with you.
Back in 1893 the first Diesel engine was patented and thus began the need for Diesel Tools.
February 23, 1893
Rudolf Diesel received a German patent for the diesel engine on this day. The diesel engine burns fuel oil rather than gasoline and differs from the gasoline engine in that it uses compressed air in the cylinder rather than a spark to ignite the fuel. Diesel engines were used widely in Europe for their efficiency and power, and are still used today in most heavy industrial machinery. In 1977, General Motors (GM) became the
first American car company to introduce diesel-powered automobiles. The diesel-powered Olds 88 and 98 models were 40 percent more fuel-efficient than their gas-powered counterparts. The idling and reduced power efficiency of the diesel engine is much greater than that of the spark engine. Diesel cars never caught on in the U.S., partly because the diesel engine’s greater efficiency is counter-balanced by its higher emissions of soot, odor, and air pollutants. Today, the argument over which engine is more environmentally friendly is still alive; some environmentalists argue that in spite of the diesel engine’s exhaust pollution, its fuel efficiency may make it more environmentally sound than the gasoline engine in the long run.
We hope you liked this brief introduction to the history of the Diesel engine and if you need some of todays modern Diesel Tools, visit us at www.Apexinds.com
Diesel Tools
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