NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY
C. A. Site No. - 21, Sector-1, 27th main road, HSR Layout
Bangalore.
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
ON
BHARAT VIJAY MILLS, KALOL
NORTH GUJARAT.
SUBMITTED BY: ISHITA PANDEY NEENU SUKUMARAN RANI TREASA JOSEPH
RASHMI AGARWAL
At the outset, we wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has assisted in formulation of this report. There are a many to whom expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there some special people who has to be given prominence, without whom we would not have reached the conclusion of this project so quickly and so efficiently.
We wish to thank Mr. A.K. Khare and Mr. Shivalingam for providing this wonderful opportunity, channeling and motivation.
No amount of Gratitude is adequate for Mr. Rahul Patel and Mr. Amit Patel for their consent in allowing us to conduct our internship in their venerated institution.
We express our deep indebtedness to Mr. M. K. Chaturvedy, the Human Resource Manager who guided and supported us through every stage of our internship.
We also wish to thank Mr. H.J Shah, Mr. Daxesh Lala, Mr. Mukesh J. Shah, Mr H. M. Raval, Mr. Atmaram Patel, Mr. Siraj, Mr .Subhash G. Patel, Mr. Ravin Mehta, Mr. G. C. Bairi, Mr. Sunil Tailor, Mr. Ganesh Aher and Mr. Ravin Mehta for their technical guidance and assistance.
We take this opportunity to express our affection towards our parents for their consistent faith and support.
Ishita Pandey Neenu Sukumaran Rani Treasa Joseph Rashmi Agarwal
PREFACE
1. INTRODUCTION TO BHARAT VIJAY MILL 2. DEPARTMENTS i) OPERATIONS a) SPINNING b) YARN DYEING c) WEAVING d) GREY FOLDING e) CORDUROY f) PROCESSING g) FINISH FOLDING h) SQC
i) PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL j) LABORATORY k) ENGINEERING l) ETP ii) ADMINISTRATION a) RETAIL SHOP b) GENERAL ADMINISTRATION c) HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT d) PERSONNEL iii) MARKETING a) MARKETING b) DESPATCH c) DESIGN DEPARTMENT iv) PROCUREMENT a) PURCHASE b) STORES c) WASTE d) COTTON DEPARTMENT
v) FINANCE
a) ACCOUNTS 3. CONCLUSION
ANNEXURES
The blend of the practice and principle- an industrial internship project transforms the classroom student into a multidimensional internee. The real life experiences gathered through the period helps the pupil to learn practical aspects and application of theoretical knowledge. It provides a huge positive impact on the student in the spheres of interpersonal skills, exposure, group work and experimentation.
The textile intership at Bharat Vijay mills is evidently the experience which provided the spectrum of psychophysical knowledge and experience. Located at a centre of rich culture and nationalistic history, Gujarat, the composite unit expresses a strict environment which breeds exclusive expansion and development. As a internee at Bharat Vijay Mills we assume our engrossment of an amount of this superior order and management.
Our Major Objectives of study were:
1. To study the working environment of the industry
2. To study the departmental processes and their interrelation within the organization
3. To study the Organisational Structure
We have tried our best to sum up the total work process of the industry through observations and interactions.
1
INTRODUCTION
Established in the year 1931, Bharat Vijay Mills (BVM), a composite textile mill, initially operated on a very modest scale at Kallol, a town 30 Km in North of Ahmedabad (India). In 1956, the present management took over. With an infusion of motivation and enduring commitment to excellence the mill expanded.
It has grown into 50 million US$ group turnover with a dedicated work force of 1600 people in the textile division. Today, BVM is a vertically integrated plant having its own spinning to finishing facilities. BVM has been the undisputed leader in varied product mix for the last 70 years with a continuous expansion of its product range. Since last 20 years it has established a name in global market with its Yarn Dyed / Piece Dyed Shirting, Corduroy & Bottom Weight.
BVM’s 80% of textile production consists of shirting and 20% consists of suiting and corduroy. Their renowned buyers are Madhura garments. Allen Solly, Peter England, Zodiac, San Francisco etc., is their major end buyers. The textile division consists of 350 staff members and 1800 workers
BVM’S VISION:
To achieve global presence in Textile business, through continuous product and technological innovation, customer orientation and a focus on cost effectiveness, quality and services.
BVM’S MISSION:
Belief in strong customer orientation. THE GEOSPHERE:
Ahmedabad, one of the fastest-growing cities in western India, is the commercial capital of Gujarat. Located on the banks of the Sabarmati River, it has had a colourful history dating back to antiquity unlike the new metropolitan city. It has numerous fashionable hotels, glittering shopping malls, high-rise business buildings and innumerable vehicles ranging from the latest sleek limousines to three-wheelers. Looking back in 1411, the city now known as 'Ahmedabad' was founded by Sultan Ahmed Shah, who named it after himself. During the Sultanate, the rulers encouraged
the merchants, members and crafts in come to Ahmedabad and make it a flourishing commercial and industrial city. An imperial atelier was located here, which produced exquisite textile and other artifacts for the Imperial Court at Delhi. Even in those days, experts contributed to Ahmedabad's prosperity A hilarious Ahmedabadi is renowned for his spirit of enterprise. Over a hundred years ago, Indian entrepreneurs established textile mills in Ahmedabad. Soon enough, the chimneystacks of these modern composite mills covered almost the entire skyline, giving it the sobriquet 'Manchester of India' over a hundred years. It is no surprise therefore that Ahmedabad continued to grow. With the phenomenal increase in population, the demand for more urban facilities, including accommodation, and the entire infrastructure considered essential to modern life, began putting a tremendous strain on the existing civic amenities. The main characteristic of Ahmedabad is that it continues to remain, as it was in the beginning, a commercial city, and a major center of trade. Today's city, with its teeming millions, its crowded streets, and burgeoning industries reflects some of these changes. Bharat Vijay Mills is expanded spinning mill from 18 million mtrs/yr to 24 million mtrs/yr at Kalol in Gujarat. As of October 2005, construction work has been initiated and equipment suppliers were appointed. The spinning mill is scheduled for commissioning by end 2006. Plans are also on the anvil to set up a readymade garment facility with an investment of Rs.400 million.
HISTORY OF BVM:
1931-1970’s- manufacturers of sarees.
1970’s – 1980’s – (while the textile industry faced business/ market crisis)
joined with Sintex (plastic manufacturing company) and sustained the crisis by manufacturing Sintex plastic tanks
Since 1980s, 90s - started functioning as a textile division of Sintex industries. Divided into both textile and plastic with textile consisting of the 1/3 rd of the
income.
GENERAL INFORMATION Name of the industry:
Bharat Vijay Mills, Kalol, North Gujarat Address:
Bharat Vijay Mills
(Textile Division of Sintex Industries Ltd) Kalol (N.G.) 382721, India Phone: (91-2764)23731(6 lines), 20246, 20793 Fax: (91-2764) 20436 E-mail: [email protected] www.sintex-india.com Type of industry:
Composite mill consisting of spinning, weaving and processing HEADS OF INSTITUTION: Chairman: Dineshbhai Patel Vice Chairman: Arunbhai Patel Managing Directors: Mr. Rahul Patel Mr. Amit Patel
President Operation (production): Mr. Ashok Mehta
Human Resource Manager: Mr. M. K. Chathurvedy Administration Manager: currently vacant. Marketing Manager: B.C. Sashidharan Procurement Manager
Mr. R. K. Sharma CFO L.M. Rathore Organization Chart ORGANISATIONAL HIERARCHY Managing Director Managing Directors President Operations President Marketing President Procurement President Admin. CFO Personnel T. K. I. R. Public Relation Security Retails Shop Power Plant General Administration Excise Spinning Weaving Yarn Dyeing Engineering Grey Folding Processing Finish Folding Lab SQC PPC Design Corduroy Ware House Marketing Despatch Purchase Stores Finance Accounts Secretarial HRD, IS, MIS
President General Manager Deputy General Manager
Senior Manager Manager Deputy Manager Senior Executive
Trainee (Qualif: B. Sc/Diploma/B.Tech- Stipend Rs.4500 – 15,000) Worker (ITI)
PRODUCTION STATUS
56000 meters/day of shirting fabric 1.5 lakh meters of corduroy
PRODUCT
On the product front, company has added various bottom weight qualities in singles as well as in doubles in addition to existing products like corduroy, yarn dyed and solid dyed shirti ng's which helps the company to supply widest product range coupled with small and large quantities of products to meet the demand of garment
manufacturers/exporters. The product range also covers Men's and Ladies apparels and furnishing etc. l Corduroy for bottom-wear as well as shirting from 4 Wales to 21 Wales per inch l Yarn Dyed stripes, Checks; Fil-a-fil, Chambray's in plains as well as dobbies l Bottom-weights with different weaves
End use of Products
• Men's Wear Top And Bottom
• Formal As Well As Casual
• Skirts
• Jackets
• Shorts
• Furnishing
Count range In English(Ne)-12s,16s,20s,24s,30s,40s,50s,2/80s and 2/100s in 100% Cotton and in Poly/Cotton and Poly/Viscose Blends-40s,45s and 60s.
2
OPERATIONS
DEPARTMENT
2. I. OPERATIONS DEPARTMENT
2. I. a. SPINNING
The cotton fiber grows in the seedpod or boll, of the cotton plant. Each fiber is a single elongated cell that is flat, twisted, and ribbon like with a wide inner hollow (lumen).It is composed of about 90 percent cellulose and about 6 percent
moisture; the remainder consists of natural impurities. The outer surface of the fiber is covered with a protective wax like coating which gives the fiber a somewhat adhesive quality.
After this hydraulic pressing is done and cotton is been tested for the quality control. And then it has been sent for even moisture distribution. After all these processes this bale cotton gone to traders and textile mills receives these bale cotton from traders. As soon as the cotton arrives at the mill after ginning process in large bales weighing about 500 pounds (225 kg) each it is been kept for 24 hours. And then spinning process
1. BLENDING STEPS:
Cotton is passed from bales and then to apron. Apron moves cotton to blending apron. Blending apron has sharp spikes the raise cotton until part of it is knocked off by the roll. Some of the cotton stays on apron. The cotton knocked back by roll and continues to chum and blend until picked up again by apron. Another roll strips
(Bale cotton kept for 24 hrs rest before blending)
(Even moisture distribution is been done through the bale cotton) (Stack of bales kept after
hydraulic pressing)
Fan which distributes moisture
off cotton that was not knocked back by previous roll. Cotton falls on conveyor belt and is carried to next process.
WHY IT’S BEEN
It is necessary so as to obtain uniformity of fiber quality.
2. OPENING STEPS:
Lint cotton falls on apron and passes between feeder rolls to beater cylinder. The rapidly whirling beater blades take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash, and loosen up the mass. The two screen rolls are made of screen material and air is sucked out of them by fan. This draws the cotton from
beater and condenses it on the surface of the screen rolls from which it is taken and passed on by the small rolls. Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes cotton to another type of beater. From beater the cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried to picker.
WHY IT’S BEEN
It is necessary in order to loosen hard lumps of fiber and disentangle them; cleaning is required to remove trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs, and any remaining seeds.
Mechanical bale pickers pluck thin, even layers of the matted fibers from each of a predetermined number of bales in turn and deposit them into a hopper. The fiber is mixed and passed to an opener. As the mass of fiber passes through the opener, cylinders with protruding fingers open up the limp and free the trash. The kind and number of cylinders or beaters, employed depend upon the type of cotton that is being processed. The commonly used porcupine beater revolves about 1000 revolutions per minute. As the cotton is opened, trash falls through a series of grid bars. When the cotton emerges from the opener, it still contains small tufts with about two-thirds of the trash. It may be conveyed as lap.
(Cotton going through the opening machine where the fibers are loosened)
GBR- Here the cottons are fed for homogenous mixtures and for removing dirts.MPM-8 – it has got 8 chambers. Generally used for homogenous mixture of fibers like while harvesting some cotton are from matured plants and some are not. So that it will affect the fabric. So, after homogenous mixing all will be the same.
(Mixing of diff cotton bales) (Formation of lap)
(Laps formed)
Here fibers are rolled into roller at the same time they are pressed also.
Time taken to roll one lap:-40s Count 600 sec
50s Count 666 sec
3. CARDING PROCESS:
Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be straightened. The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel CARDING. The work is done by carding machine.
The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn o rapidly revolving cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes slowly moves concentrically above this cylinder. As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the cylinder through the small gap under the brushes; the teasing action removes the remaining trashes, disentangles the fibers , and arranges them in a relatively parallel manner in form of a thin web. This web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that molds it into a round rope like mass called card sliver. Card sliver produces carded yarns or carded cottons serviceable for inexpensive cotton fabrics.
(Card sliver formed) (Lap is been fed into
carding machine)
STEPS:
The lap from pucker unrolls and feed roll passes cotton licker in roll (covered with saw toothed wire).The licker in roll passes fiber against cleaner bars and gives it up to large cylinder which passes between the thousands of fine wires on surface of cylinder and on flats. The cotton follows large cylinder to doffer cylinder, which remove lint from large cylinder. The doffer comb vibrates against doffer cylinder and takes lint off in a filmy web that passes through condenser rolls, coiler head, and then into can. The sliver may be passed from one can to combing for further removal of foreign matter and parallelization of fiber or directly to drawing.
4. DOUBLING PROCESS:
After carding, several slivers are combined. This results in a relatively narrow lap of compactly placed staple fibers. The compactness of these fibers permits this cotton stock to be attenuated, or drawn out, to a sliver of smaller diameter without falling apart.
5. COMBING PROCESS:
When the fiber is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through an additional straightening called COMBING. In this operation, fine-toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until they are arranged with such a high degree of parallelism that the short fibers, called noils, are combed out and completely separated out from the longer fibers.
The combing process forms a comb sliver made of the longest fibers, which, in turn, produces a smoother and more even yarn. This operation as much as 25% of the
original card sliver; thus almost one fourth of the raw cotton becomes waste. The combing process, therefore, is identified with consumer goods of better quality. Since long-staple yarns produce stronger, smoother, and more serviceable fabrics, quality cotton goods carry labels indicating that they are made from combed yarns or combed yarns.
6. DRAWING PROCESS:
The combining of several fibers for the drawing, or drafting, process eliminates irregularities that would cause too much variation if the slivers were pulling through singly. The draw frame has several pairs of rollers, each advanced set of which revolves at a progressively faster speed. This action pulls the staple lengthwise over each other, thereby producing longer and thinner slivers. After several stages of drawing out, the condensed sliver is taken to the slubber, where rollers similar to those
in the drawing frame draw out the cotton further. Here the slubbing is passed to the spindles, where it is given its first twist and is then wound on bobbins.
STEPS:
Her six cans that were filled at cards feed each drawing from delivery. The spoons are connected so that if any one of the six slivers from can should break, the machine automatically stops. This prevents making uneven yarn later. Each of four set of rolls runs successively faster than preceding set. The last set runs approximately six times as the first set; consequently, sliver coming out is the same size as each one of six going in. but is attenuated to six times the length per minute. The sliver is neatly coiled again in roving can by coiler head. The sliver is now much more uniform and fibers much more nearly parallel. The sliver is now ready for roving frames.
7. ROVING PROCESS:
These bobbins are placed on the roving frame, where further drawing out and twisting take place until the cotton stock is about the diameter of a
(Drawing process-6 cans of comb
sliver been fed) (After drawing process)
pencil lead. There are two stages of roving; intermediate and fine. The operations are identical, but each machine yields a finer product than the stock is received. Roving is the final product of several drawing out operations. It is a preparatory stage for the final insertion of twist. To this point, only enough twist has been given the stock to hold the fibers together. Roving has not tensile strength; it will break apart easily with any easy pull.
STEPS:
The can of sliver from drawing frames is fed between three sets of drafting rolls. Each following set of rolls runs faster than preceding sets. This pulls sliver and thins it down, making fibers nearly parallel. The spindle turns flyer and is driven at a constant speed. The front rolls (nearest flyer) are set at a sped that gives strand coming out of the rolls a predetermined number of turns of twist per inch as it moves along between rolls and flyer. The bobbin is driven by a source separate from gear that drives spindle and flyer. The bobbin is regulated to turn automatically at a speed sufficiently faster than flyer, which causes roving to wind on bobbin at same rate as it is delivered by front roll.
8. SPINNING PROCESS:
The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it passes through several sets of rollers running at successively higher rates of speed and is finally drawn out to yarn of the size desired. Spinning machines are of two types; ring frame and mule frame. The ring frame is faster process, but produces a relatively coarse yarn. for very fine yarns, such as worsted, the mule frame is required because of its slow, intermittent operation. The ring frame, which is general in use, is more suitable
(Speed frame-back side) (Speed frame-front view-120 bobbins)
(Bobbin)
P/C BLEND 2nd PASSAGE
for the manufacture of cotton yarns in mass production. Its hundreds of spindles, whirling thousands of revolutions per minute, and its constant spinning action provide a fast operation. The ring spinning frame completes the manufacture of yarn (1) by drawing out the roving (2) by inserting twist, and (3) by winding the yarn on bobbins-all in one operation. The bobbins of yarn are removed for such processing as may be desired; for example, the yarn may be reeled into skeins for bleaching or may be wound on cheeses, or spools, for ultimate weaving.
STEPS:
The principle of spinning is same as that used in roving except that the operation is more refined and a ring and traveler are used instead of the flyer. From bobbin roving is fed between set of drafting rolls to draw strand down to its final desired size. The spindle turns bobbin at a constant speed. The front set of rolls is adjusted to deliver yarn at a speed sufficient to insert desired mount of twist as strand moves along. The traveler glides freely around ring. The tension caused by drag of traveler causes yarn to wind on bobbin at same rate of speed as it delivered by rolls.
SPINNING PROCESS FLOW CHART
(Ring Frame)CARDED COMBED POLY/COT
BALE OPENING STACK MIXING BALE OPENING STACK MIXING BALE OPENING OF 100%POLYESTER STACK MIXING WITH TINT COLOR
P/C BLEND 2nd PASSAGE
PROCESS CONTROL PARAMETER
MIXING 12S 20S 40S 50S SYNTHETIC BLOW ROOM CARD BREAKER DRAW FRAME FINISHED DRAW FRAME SPEED FRAME RING FRAME WINDING PARALLEL WINDNG T.F.O WINDING WARPING PRE OPENING BLOW ROOM CARD PRE COMB LAP FORMING COMBER BLOW ROOM CARD DRAW FRAME PASSAGE OF POLYESTER POST COMB SPEED FRAME WINDING PARALLEL WINDING T.F.O WINDING RING FRAME DRAW FRAME BLEND PASSAGE P+C P/C BLEND 2nd PASSAGE P/C BLEND FINAL PASSAGE (3rd) SPEED FRAME WINDING PARALLEL WINDING T.F.O WINDING RING FRAMEMAKE (m/c form) TRUMAC New TRUMAC New TRUMAC Old TRUMAC New LR Old SHELLROLL (R.P.M) 11 11 11 11 9 LAP WEIGHT 20 20 20 20 13.2 LAP LENGTH 44.4 56 61 66.6 90 GRAMMO METER 450 400 330 300 300 TOLERANCE LIMIT + or – 300gm + or – 300gm + or – 300gm + or – 300gm + or – 300gm
YARN QUALITY PARAMETERS
1. CV% of count 2. CV% of strength 3 .C.S.P
4 .U% & imperfection ( thin, thick, neps) & yarn hairiness. 5. Classimat faults
o
Raw material faultso
16 class faults(A to D)o
Long thick faults(E+F+G)o
Long thin faults(H+I)o
Objectionable fault(A4+B4+C3+C4+D3+D4)6. T P I
7. Single yarn strength (gm) 8. R.K.M
9. CV% of single yarn strength 10. CV% of elongation
END USES
o
Yarn dyed fabrico
Corduroys pile fabrico
Bottom weights fabricso
Dobby fabrics & poplinsNAME OF THE MACHINE MAKE
INSTALLED YEAR
NO.OF MACHINE
1.BLOW ROOM
Trutzschler blow room line with two finisher scutchers
TRUMAC 1992 1
New trutzschler blow room line with one finisher scutcher
TRUMAC 2000 1
Old synthetic blow room line with one scutcher
Laxmi-Reiter 1978 1
Pre filter & fine filter unit TRUMAC 1998 1
CVT – 3 TRUMAC 1999 1
Roving waste opener TATHAMS 1960 1
Bonda waste opener TATHAMS 1960 1
Bale braker PLATTS 1946 1
Mixing bale opener(MBO) Laxmi-Reiter 1989 1
2.CARDING
TRUMAC DK 780 CARD TRUMAC DK 740
Trutzschler DK-740 card TRUMAC 1997-98 8
Trutzschler DK-780 cards TRUMAC 1998 4
Trutzschler DK-780 cards TRUMAC 2000 4
Waste collection system TRUMAC 1998 1
R.S.G grinder complete PERFECT 2000 1
3.COMBING
High speed comber E7/4(old) Laxmi-Reiter 1991-92 4
High speed comber E7/4 Laxmi-Reiter 1995-96 4
High speed comber LK-250 Laxmi-Reiter 1998-99 6
Lap former E 2/4A Laxmi-Reiter 1994
1
Lao former E2/4A Laxmi-Reiter 1997 1
High speed comber LK-250 Laxmi-Reiter 2002 2
4.DRAWING
HS draw frame DO/6 model Laxmi-Reiter 1989 2
HS draw frame padmatex – 720 Padmatex 1992 4
HS RSB – 1 draw frame RIETER 1998 2
HS RSB – D – 30 draw frame RIETER 1999 2
5.SPEED FRAME
Speed frame TS-15 model TEXTOOL 1992 4
Speed frame TS-15 model TEXTOOL 1994 1
Speed frame LF-1400 Laxmi-Reiter 1989 4
Speed frame LF-1400A Laxmi-Reiter 1997-98 2
Speed frame LF-1400A Laxmi-Reiter 2000 1
6.RING FRAME
Ring frame MEI MEI 1989 4
Rig frame DJ-50N MODEL TEXTOOL 1992-93 50
7.WINDING/DOUBLING/T.F.O
Parallel winding m/c KAMITSU 1964 1
Parallel winding m/c KAMITSU 1971 1
Super doublers NMM 1978 1
T.F.O VEEJAY LAKSHMI 1999-2000 3
7.ROLL SHOP SECTION
Cot mounting m/c C&C 1972 1
Cot mounting m/c DRONSFIELDS 1960 1
Cot mounting m/c VIRAJKA 1998 1
Cot buffing m/c SABAR 1980 1
Cot buffing m/c S draft DENIMAC 1992 1
Cot bercolising m/c H.SAGAR 1989 1
LAYOUT OF SPINNING DEPARTMENT
TRUMAC DK 780 CARD TRUMAC DK 740
2. I. B YARN DYEING
BLOW ROOM LINE
SME – 3 SME – 2 SME - 1 K A M IT S U W IN D IN G T F O DOUBLING MACHINES SPINNING OFFICE WEAVING SECTION T.T. DJ50N RING FRAME(16) WMM SUPER SPINNER RING FRAME(6) T.T.PJ 50N RING FRAME (34) MEI RING FRAME (12) T 151 SPEED FRAME LR GS SPEED FRAME MIXING ROOM L F 1400 S F L F 1400 SPEED FRAME E 7/4 LK 250 COM BER P.T.DRG E 7/4 COM BER RSBDRG TRUMAC DK 780 CARD TRUMAC DK 740 SLIVER LAP L .K .2 50 C O M B E R S L IV E R L A P E 7 /4 & L .K .2 50 C O M B E R
BLOW ROOM LINE
W IN D IN G D E P A R T M E N T
When dyeing is done after the fiber has been spun into yarn, it is described yarn dyeing. There are several methods of yarn dyeing. The purpose is to have the dyestuff penetrate to the fibers in the core of the yarn; this is similar to the penetration of the fibers in stock dyeing. Cloth made of dyed yarns is called yarn dyed. Yarn dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in color. Yarn dyed fabrics intended for laundering must be quite colorfast, or bleeding could occur. The primary reason for dyeing in the yarn form is to create interesting checks, stripes, and plaids with different –colored yarns in the weaving process. Chambrays, for example, are usually woven with a colored warp and white filling. Other combinations of different colored yarns are checked gingham, shepherd’s check, plaid, seersucker, and heather mixtures.
Yarns can be dyed in the form of skeins or packages. Package-dyed yarns are more suitable for woven fabrics, whereas skein-dyed yarns as more suitable for knits and carpets where a fuller bulk is more desirable. However, package dyeing can be performed on a much larger scale and with more uniform results. Consequently, it is the more commonly-used method.
PACKAGE DYEING MACHINES
In these enclosed machines where dyeing under pressure can take place, the dye-liquor is circulated through wound packages of yarn until the dye is evenly exhausted. The yarn is wound onto perforated tubes or springs, or other types of holders and the packages formed are then mounted onto a perforated rod (spindle) or tube. In a commercial dyeing machine seven hundred packages are tightly packed on a number of spindles which are arranged vertically on a hollow base (the carrier).After loading, the carrier is dropped into a seating in the dyeing tank, through which the dye-liquor is circulated. The dye-dye-liquor is pumped through the packages in either direction, according to need.
These type of machines are also used, with the proper modification, to dye loose fibers, tops and sliver, and warp yarns. In dyeing warp
yarns, a single perforated cylinder of the yarns fits into the seating of the dye tank.
Packages that are too loosely wound may collapse during the dyeing process. However, packages that are too tightly wound may interface with the circulation of the dye-liquor. In any case, the packages must be wound as uniformly as possible. Sudden pressures changes should be avoided to prevent possible distortion of the packages. Therefore, newer package dyeing machines have the capability of controlling both
flow and differential pressure. Many times the packages are covered by a protective bag which acts as a filter to prevent deposits of insoluble dye and other impurities on the yarn.
Modern package dyeing machines are made to operate at low liquor ratios. This is achieved by eliminating the external expansion tank.
Carrier
Spindle Yarn package
Main tank
(Carrier inserting into the main tank)
MAIN STEPS INVOLVED IN YARN DYEING Yarn dyeing is done in mainly two
stages:-1) DEVELOPMENT
o
Customer gives sample with its all specifications like count, color etc. The samplegiven is generally known as eskloon (handkerchief shape).
o
It is then checked in lab. There they will check it in a particular design like howmany threads they need.
o
Then in hang form dyeing take placeo
Approval from buyer. records of number of chemicals and recipe kepto
If its not correct they will re-produce or re-process. But if the quantity of shaderequired is very less like 2 warp yarns in long intervals then shade variation in the cone can be tolerated.
o
If approved go for bulk order2) BULK ORDER
o
Production Planning Department takes charge of bulk order. Depending on load,capacity, constraint, date is fixed.
o
CYCLE OF YARN DYEING PROCESS2.1 Receives soft package from winding department
o
There is a spring attached to the yarn package which helps in shrinking the yarn package.o
Uniform dyeing not possible if we use paper corn winded Yarn.o
So we generally use spring winding so that more yarn can be wounded aswell as gives uniform winding.
o
It basically helps in loading process.o
Recipe is been made according to development stage.o
As per availability of recipe and P.P.C department dyeing is been done.2.2 Loading yarn packages to carrier
o
These packages are put in a carriage in compressed form.o
The main principle behind this is mechanism of compression. There is a pressing device which compresses the packages.o
There is long cylindrical rod –spindle in which spring wounded yarns are beenkept. These rods have small pores in it which allows movement of dyeing chemicals in and out during dyeing process.
o
In each spindle there can be maximum 11 yarn packages can be kept. But it again depends on compression mechanism.o
Compression is done according to:-design
:-density package
:- vessel height in which these yarns are been dyed.
o
These spindles are attached to a carrier. In one 400 kg carrier there can bealmost 61 spindles.
2.3 Dyeing
o
The dyeing machine consist:-Microprocessor
It depends on light, medium, dark, reactive dyes. All details are feeded onto the processor and locked. as per the requirement one program is used.
:-Closing tank
In this chemicals are been put. And tube passes from this tank to main tank through which chemicals pass through.
:-Main tank
It’s the main tank in which carrier is been put.
o
First they put the carriage in the main tank in which 900 liters of water isbeen filled.
o
Then chemical is put into chamber which later goes to closing tank.o
Programming done-according to chemicals, water, temperatureo
There are mainly two stages;-in –out and out-ino
9-10 hrs is taken for dyeing 1 carrier.o
Capacity is 5-6 tones/dayAfter dyeing process almost double amount of water is present inside the package. Then water comes down due to gravity.
There is another system known as automatic dosing system. In this chemicals are put in different tank according to color we want program is been feeded and the chemicals are taken automatically from these tanks and recipe is made.
In same vessel we can have different capacity. There are carriers known as dummy carriers. These carriers consist of dummy
spindles. Dummy spindles are plain rod which doesn’t have holes in them so that when dyeing process takes place water is not wasted in and out through these spindles. So these rods block the movement of water in and out through the spindle. Example;-In-out Out-in Porous spindle Dummy spindle
(The rod is made of steel and no holes present n it so that it controls the movement of water in and through.)
Suppose in a 100kg m/c we want only 80 kg yarns to be dyed. We have to put all the spindles but we cant waste 20 kg of dyed yarn. And if we use the simple porous spindles then most of the colored water will try to come out of that spindle because the pressure applied is very less in those spindles. So, variation in color may arise. In that situation we use dummy spindles which is covered with the steel for the equal distribution of pressure of water in all the spindles. And it also helps out in shade variation problem.
2.4 Hydro extractor
After dyeing yarn contain almost double amount of water. This is been removed through a hydro extractor. It
consists of a l oading device in which yarns are kept. Then this is put into a chamber. Inside this chamber the load rotate in a speed of 1700rpm. Time taken is 10 minutes. Due to the centrifugal force water comes out.
8 yarn package in 1 floor Total 2 floors present
2.5 R.F.Dryer (Radio Frequency Dryer)
After hydro extracting there is still some amount of water present inside the yarn. Through radio frequency further drying is been done.I n this dryer machine electrodes are present, which create an electromagnetic field.H+ and O- polar molecules are been
produced.This start vibrating and create energy. Therefore H+ and O- get split. In
this temperature has to be controlled and also height between these electrodes and yarns have to be maintained.
Electrode 283.0mm Conv.speed 5.7 m/h Anode Ja 11.7 A
Grid Ig 2.4 A
After the drying process, the yarn packages are winded in a cone, like 2 yarn packages are winded in one cone to check for the shade variation among different yarn packages.
TYPES OF DEFECTS
1. Shade matching
If the shade is not matching this can be rectified by reprocessing it. 2. Levelness of package
From 2 cheese to 1 cone
Dyes generally used are vat, reactive dyes. Colors
used:-⇒ IND BROWN BR
⇒ IND GREY 4B
⇒ INDOLIVE T
⇒ IND OLIVE GREEN B
⇒ NOV BROWN 2G
⇒ NOV PURPLE LR
⇒ NOV BROWN P
⇒ NOV OLIVE R
⇒ NOV YELLOW 5G
⇒ NOV JADE GREEN XBN
⇒ YELLOW 3RT
⇒ IND NAV BLUE VH
⇒ IND BLUE BC
⇒ IND BLACK AC
⇒ BLACK BLWUWU
⇒ CRIMSON HEXL ⇒ YELLOW HEXL ⇒ NAVY HEXL ⇒ BLUE HERD ⇒ BLUE HEXL ⇒ BLUE HEGL ⇒ RED HEXL REACTIVE DYES
2. I. C. WEAVING
Cotton yarn can be made into cloth by knitting or weaving but weaving is by far the most important and the only one used here. Weaving is carried out on a loom where warp yarns run lengthways from back to front. Using a shuttle, weft yarn is threaded widthwise. In early times, using a hand-loom, it was found to be much difficult to raise alternate warp threads and lower the others. The weft could then be carried between them in a straight line. The position of the warp threads was then reversed and the weft sent back in the opposite direction.
PREPARATORY PROCESS FOR WEAVING:
The yarns as manufactured and packaged after spinning are not in the optimum condition to enter the looms directly so as to produce fabrics. Package size, build and other factors make it necessary for the yarn to be further processed to prepare it to be handled efficiently during fabric manufacturing. The yarn package as it comes from spinning must be repackaged to meet the particular needs and demands of fabric manufacturing.
Various steps for preparatory process of yarn for weaving are as follows: WINDING (WARP WINDING AND WEFT WINDING) WARPING SIZING
DENTING AND DRAWING-IN
OBJECTIVE: To transfer yarn from spinner bobbin to another suitable package for warping machine.
REQUIREMENTS:
• The fault level in the yarn must be reduced to an acceptable level.
• The yarn must not be damaged in the winding process.
• The package size, shape and build must be suitable for particular end use.
• The package size should be controlled to meet the particular economic requirement.
MACHINERY:
i) AUTOCONERS: These are machines used to remove impurities, irregularities, and imperfections like thick or thin places, slubs, nebs or loose fibers from the yarn obtained from spinning. There is a special feature called ‘auto-doffing’ in all of these. In this mechanism, after the yarn package finishes, another package automatically drops and the winding process continues.
Doffing capacity = 60 doffs per hour.
Weight of the yarn = yarn length/ (1694* yarn count)
There are three types of autoconers used in the winding department:
a.) MURATEC MACHINE CONER 138 : Separation of electrics, pneumatics and
mechanics
No. of machines = 2
No. of spindles in each machine=60 b.) SCHLAFHORST AUTOCONER 238 : Single( individual) spindle machine
• Uniform tension
• Electrode sensors are present
No. of machines = 2
No. of spindles in each machine=60
c.) SCHLAFHORST AUTOCONER 338 : Sensor-controlled winding process.
This is the latest machine with the following features:
• Uniform yarn tension.
•Ecopack: Exact length measurement. Accuracy is
measured in terms of micro and millimeters.
•Variopack: For stretchable yarns, to achieve uniform tension without destroying the shape.
•Cradle pressure: Proper compact package to maintain
uniform density.
• Speed: Fastest machine fully computerized.
No. of machines = 2
No. of spindles in each machine=60
ii) SAMPLE WINDING MACHINE: VERSA WINDER
Here, the length of yarn to be winded can be feeded and after the length is achieved, the machine automatically stops.
Number of machines = 1
Number of winders in each machine = 6 GAS YARN SINGEING MACHINE:
Every yarn has a different level of hairiness. To avoid this, yarn singeing is done. A mixture of certain volume of gas and air at a certain speed and temperature is used in the burner. As the yarn passes through the burner, only the protruding fibers get singed. Yarn singeing is generally done for stripe qualities, where the ground is of the same color.
TYPES OF YARN PACKAGES:
Cone : this comprises of one or more threads, which are laid very nearly parallel to layers already existing in the package. It may be tapered in both sides and package weight varies from 1-2 kgs.
Cheese : This consists of a single thread, which is laid in the package at an appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another to yield stability. It is generally in cylindrical form and weight varies from 1-2 kgs.
2. WARPING
OBJECTIVE: To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns that can be collected in a sheet form and wound on to a warper’s beam.
There are two types of warping methods followed:
i) DIRECT WARPING (BEAM WARPING): It is used for long runs of grey yarns, single color yarns and simple patterns of colored yarns. It can be used to make warp sheets. The total amount of colored yarns involved is less than 15% of the total.
Direct warping machines are not computerized. No. of direct warping machines = 3(JUPITER) Suction devices are provided in between warping machines which suck all the unwanted cotton fibers flying.
ii) SECTIONAL WARPING (PATTERN
WARPING): It is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern fabrics where the amount of colored yarn is more than 15% of the total.
Sectional warping is a quick way to warp a loom with a
style of yarn and 2 inch repeats (most sections on a sectional warp beam are 2" wide). It is not very well suited for mixed warps with many or random yarn changes. It also requires more space and equipment than other warping methods - spool rack with bobbins, bobbin winder, sley hook and a tension box or warping paddle/guide.
STEPS FOR SECTIONAL WARPING:
i. Warp is winded onto spools (bobbins) - One spool per each warp end per 2" of
warp. Only one section of sectional warp beam is winded at a time. Therefore the spool rack should hold the number of bobbins of warp needed to fill one section of beam at the desired number of ends per inch. If the weaving is set at 12 e.p.i, and the sectional warp beam sections are 2", 24 bobbins of warp are needed in the spool rack (2" x 12 e.p.i. = 24 warp ends, hence 24 bobbins per 2" section).
ii. The spool rack is positioned behind the loom.
iii. The warp is centered and number of warp sections is counted. For a 28" wide fabric, the center 14 sections are used (28" divided by 2" sections = 14 sections).
iv. A cord is tied to the warp beam in each of the sections used.
v.A warp end is threaded from each bobbin through the tension box or warping paddle. The tension box or guide should be attached
to the back beam to help in winding the warp ends onto each section with even tension. The width of the spread in the tension box reed or guide/paddle should be slightly less than 2" to allow for the width of the pegs on the sectional warp beam. There may be a need to put more than one end per dent or paddle hole to achieve this.
vi. The bundle of warp ends is knotted as close to the end as possible.
vii. Beginning at either of the outside sections of the specified sections, the cord is tied from the warp beam to the knotted warp ends using a clove hitch knot. The tension box or paddle is positioned on the back beam directly above the section to be filled. Note: the bobbins on the spool rack are heavier at the beginning of the warping process. This weight makes the first sections tighter than the later ones. It is best to have the tighter sections on the outside edges. Starting at one side and filling sections in order straight across the beam will produce fabric with warps tight on one end and loose on the other. Similarly, starting at the center and working towards the edges will produce fabric with rippled edges.
viii. The beam is turned, watching carefully to see that the section fills evenly. If the warp
piles up unevenly, position of the tension box is adjusted. Each revolution of the beam is counted as first section is filled. All the other sections should be filled with the same number of turns to avoid tension problems in the warp.
ix. When the section is full, a piece of masking tape is placed across the warp ends to keep them in order. The tape takes the place of a cross. The warp is then cut one inch beyond the tape. The tape is pinned into the filled section to secure it.
x. The tension box or paddle is moved to the other outside section and filled.
xi. When all the sections are full, pins are removed from each section and warp is pulled over the back beam toward the shafts. A long stick is laid across the width of the loom and tied to the sides of the loom to secure. The warp sections are taped to this stick.
xii. Thread the loom is threaded as for warping back to front (heddles are threaded; the reed is slayed and tied onto the front apron rod).
MACHINERY:
The sectional warping machine consists of a drum which can slightly shift horizontally as the sections of yarn are being rotated on it. Length of the drum is marked on it. The warp yarns comes from a predefined arrangement of cones as per the color and design of the fabric. Length and width of each section of yarn is calculated and each section is warped in a slanting manner on the drum to avoid intermingling of sections. A lace is introduced and tied at the end hooks of the drum after each section of yarns is separated by a rod. After all the sections are winded on the drum, this beam is than winded on to a beam by the help of a roller. This beam is called the warp beam.
The sectional warping machines are fully computerized. Creel capacity = 672
Hence, no. of sections = 672/ (no. of ends per section)
No. of sectional warping machines = 9 (PRASHANT GAMATEX, SUCKER MULLER
AND JUPITER)
FEATURES:
• Separate warping & beaming structure
Separate warping & beaming structure ensures smooth vibration free operation at high speed as well as at higher winding tensions. This division into units provides greater processing flexibility such as.
i. Allowing the machine to be operated with single or multiple creel for higher
productivity in respect to capital investment.
ii. Easy to reach the warping reel from every position during the different working
phases.
iv. Extremely convenient in operation and maintenance.
• Hydraulic Disc Brakes
To ensure gentle but extremely effective stopping of the machine, disc brakes are provided on both sides of the drum, New Caliper braking device having sideways installation facilitate easy servicing and settings of brake liners.
• Constant Beaming Tension
Most important and high technological feature only offered by 'Prashant Gamatex' to produce perfect weavers beam to get optimum efficiency for automatic looms.
Proportional control of the brakes in our high tech Hydraulic power pack with the help of advance electronics, monitors constant tension of the yarn sheet during beaming.
• Digital / Graphic On Line Display for desired process data
Intelligent Operational Panel (I.O.P.) having large size Digital display or graphic display is provided for indicating total length, partial length, No. of section, section width, rotation as well as all the messages and fault finding indications in case of machine stoppage.
• Solid steel drum - Dynamically balanced.
• Frequency variable A/C drives
• Hydraulic doffing & donning device
• Auto section advancing
• Constant warping and beaming speed
• Lost end memory & auto stop during beaming
Broken and lost end during warping can be memorized. Machine stops automatically before lost end position during beaming to trace and tie the lost end to complete warp. This increases the overall efficiency of high speed looms. All lost end data can be monitored on screen at a time and also can take printout of the same.
• On Site Programming Facility
The design is inbuilt to memorize atleast 100 sets of different programs, which can be easily called back and start the machine without any further delay
• Individually Controlled Tensioner Type model
Perfect warp beam can only be produced when tension of each individual end is absolutely constant, irrespective of warping speed, package diameter, or the types of yarn, we offer high tech solution to meet all these demand for quality conscious customers.
3. SIZING
OBJECTIVES:
• To improve strength and abrasion resistance of the warp yarns by causing the
fibers to adhere together.
• To make smooth and to lubricate the warp yarns so that there is minimum friction where
they rub together various parts in the weaving process.
In the weaving process, the warp yarns are subjected to rubbing and chafing against various metallic parts of the looms as they are threaded through backrest, drop wires, harness and reed. They constantly are rubbed together during shedding.
The warp yarns are subjected to tension constantly as well as intermittently during let-off, take-up, shedding and beat up.
These two reasons lead to increase the end breakage level during weaving, which should be minimized.
SIZING INGREDIENTS:
Adhesives: Modified starch (texoplast), fabric glue, thin volume starch, Potato starch, starch from corn, wheat, rice, etc., Carboxyl methyl cellulose (CMC), Poly-vinyl alcohol (PVA), Polyester resin (acts as binder).
Lubricants:
Mineral waxes, oils, vegetable waxes and oils, animal fats Additives:
Salicylic acid, zinc chloride, phenol, emulsifier, softeners, Polyethylene glycol
CHEMICAL 16Te 40COL 40
GREY 50 60 70 20 16OE Sample sizing Texoplast 40 50 50 70 60 50 20 70 ___ PVA 6 6 10 10 10 15 ___ 10 8 Falixlose 25 25 25 ___ ___ ___ 60 20 ___ Seycofilm 4 6 6 12 15 15 4 6 3 M. Tallow 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 4 3 Pep 1000 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 ___ LV 40 1 ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ Water 15’’ 14.5’’ 14.5’’ 14’’ 14’’ 14’’ 14’’ 17’’ 100 1’’= 37.75 litres MACHINERY:
1) SUCKER MULLER –HACOBA with PLC device( programmable logic control)
No. of machines = 1
OPERATOR INTERFACE PLC BASED SERVO DRIVE CONTROLLED MULTI-CYLINDER SIZING MACHINE ( JUPITOR).
3) AMBICA ( No. of machines = 1)
No PLC device is present in this machine.
Sizing machine SE – C has one pair of squeezing rollers. Sizing machine SD – C has two pairs of squeezing rollers. TECHNICAL DETAILS:
1.) FEEDING DEVICE: Obtain a good point of grip for the warp.
This comprises of the following parts:
Pressure roller: This has two main functions:
Stretch measurement and pulse generation.
Carrier roller:carries the warp yarns forward
Floating roller: determines the drawing force between carrier roller and
first pair of squeezing rollers. Measured value is indicated on the scale.
Control bridge : protects the entire arrangement. The pneumatically
operated bridge automatically follows the roller movements.
Rotary switch : lifts the pressure roller off the carrier roller
pneumatically to allow knots or the feed aid to be pulled through when the warp is being fed in.
Guide roller: serves the pupose of length measurement in cases where sizing continues filament yarn.
Contactless switch: Attached to a roller bearing. Pulses are transmitted to a second measuring instrument (meter counter or stretch measuring device) located elsewhere. 2) SQUEEZING ROLLERS
MATERIAL- Rubber.
These rollers should be brushed down with hot water containing a desizing agent before long periods out of use to wash out all traces of size from the pores.
The agent reaction time must be kept short to rule out solubilization of the roller
surface. Immediately afterwards, the cleaning agent is neutralized and removed with water.
When regrinding one of the bottom squeeze rollers on a sizing machine with two
squeezers(SD-C), the roller with the largest external diameter must be installed in the last squeezer.
Difference between two sqeezers in the first and second roller should not exceed 0.2
mm.
Three type of grindings: rough, normal and fine.
The rollers should be stored at 20 degree centigrade in a dark room and should be
lifted only by journals.
Stuffing box packing: ‘Kevlar Aramide’ packing code is used. If tightened too
securely,
i) Packing cord coated with Teflon on the backing will burn and sealing effect can be lost. ii) Can lead to damage of bearings.
Automatic squeezing roller control ( PLC) : The pneumatic load on the squeezing roller is increased and decreased according to the operating statuses of the machine. Squeezing pressure is usually set lower for standstill and creep speed than for normal speed.
The squeezing pressure control facility allows the squeezing roller pressure to be adjusted depending on warp speed.
The programmable logic control device helps in checking the amount of size imparted to a single yarn. It measures the degree of viscosity of each individual yarn and sends a signal to the squeeze roller. If the amount of size imparted is more, the pressure of squeeze roller has to be increased and vice-a-versa.
3) SIZING MACHINE HEATING AND STEAM LINES Maximum permissible steam pressure = 3.5 bar
If the customer wishes to work with lower steam pressures, a separate pressure reducing valve and a safety valve must be installed.
There is an electro- pneumatic temperature control system.
Heating and temperature control:
Heating is done by two systems:
i) Direct: By injecting steam directly into the size in the preliminary and main troughs by way of distributor tubes. A condensate drain is used to prevent the size being watered down.
ii) Indirect: By injecting steam into the double wall of the size trough and thus heating a water bath, which in turn heats the size.
Speed (m /min) Squeezing Pressure ( KN) FQ1 FQ1 FQ2 FQ2 V2 V2
Temperature of size is measured by a PT 100 temperature sensor in the main trough. Temperature is regulated by means of a pneumatically controlled valve.
Temperature restriction of indirect heating:
Sensor of the control valve is installed in the expanded cross section of pressure compensation line.
Water temperature = 80 degree centigrade Size temperature = 70 degree centigrade
If internal heating temperature is too high, size can become baked on trough walls. 4) PRELIMINARY TROUGH CONDENSATE LINE
The condensate must be able to drain off at zero pressure. It consists of: i) Double walled water bath.
ii) Sensor of temperature control valve.
iii)Condensate and pressure compensation line 5) LEVEL MONITOR IN MAIN TROUGH
The liquid level in the main trough is monitored with a bead tube. If the level falls too low, the system shuts down.
MEASURING AND CONTROL DEVICES FOR DEGREE OF SIZING
If degree of sizing is too high or low, risk of thread breaks is increased. Degree of sizing(%) = [Sa(%) * K(%)] / (100%) ; where
Sa = Sizing liquor take up. It is the ratio of the liquor taken up to the weight of untreated yarn.
REFRACTOMETER MEASURING CUP
FACTORS AFECTING DEGREE OF SIZING: i) Concentration
ii) Viscosity of sizing liquor iii)Temperature of sizing liquor iv) Speed
v) Squeezing pressure ENERGY CONNECTIONS
Steam pressure:
Operating pressure = 0.5 to 3.5 bar
Steam quantity:
SE-C = 50 kg/h SD-C = 80 kg/h
Condensate : must drain without back press.
Air pressure :
Maximum Operating pressure = 10 bar With squeezing pressure
60 KN => 6,5 bar 100KN => 8,5 bar
Air quantity:
SE-C = 1.15 cubic mt/h (intake) SE-D = 1.65 cubic mt/h
Air must be free of water, dust and oil. WAXING DEVICE (PVD)
This is used to apply various oils or waxes to the warp after sizing. It is fitted at the beginning of the dry splitting zone immediately after the dancing roller, where the warp is still undivided.
This device consists of:
i) A melting funnel for solid media (waxes). ii) A tray to contain the lubricant:
a) Tray is made of stainless steel and protected from fiber fly and other impurities with cover plates.
b) The tray has a heating coil for internal heating.
c) Wax temperature in tray is controlled by a temperature controller and a pneumatic valve.
d) Lubricant can only be removed via drain cock iii) An applicator roll:
a) Made of stainless steel with a specially treated surface.
b) Driven in properly to the sizing machine’s warp speed by a frequency – regulated 3- phase a.c. motor with a worm gear.
iv) if liquid media (oils) are used, it is fed via a transparent bottle with a capacity of 10 liters.
4. DENTING AND DRAWING – IN
All the warp threads have to be threaded through the heald eyelet and its gap in the reed prior to weaving. The heald is the part of the loom that is used to move the warp threads up and down. The threads pass through eyelets on the heald. For a simple weave pattern alternate eyelets are moved up to raise the corresponding warp threads, and the threads between are moved down. When the shuttle travels back their positions are reversed. The reed is like a comb and its purpose is to control the separation of the warp threads.
Some basic terms:
PREPATORY PROCESS FOR DRAWING-IN: The open space between each wire of the hook is called dent. A warp end is passed
through a dent with the help of the reed hook, after it passes through the heald. This process is called denting.
Automatic drawing-in machines multiply the productivity of each drawing-in operation 5- to 10- times in relation to manual drawing-in thus enabling the required level of processing flexibility.
MACHINERY:
1) STAUBLI DELTA 200 : The DELTA 200 is a high-performance drawing-in installation.
It is used wherever high production performance, a wide field of applications, and maximum flexibility are required. The DELTA 200 draws-in warp yarns directly from the warp beam with 1 or 2 sheets, and optionally up to 4 sheets.
2) STAUBLI DELTA 110 : These drawing-in installations are designed for weaving mills
with medium drawing-in requirements. The DELTA 110 also handles drop wires and is a universal installation. Furthermore, a module is available that is specially designed for drawing-in course yarns. Drawing-in takes place directly from the warp beam with 1 warp sheet, or optionally with 2 warp sheets.
Main characteristics:
DELTA 110 200
Drawing-in speed (ends/min) 100/140* 200
Number of warps in 8h (ca. ) 2-5 4-8
Warp widths (m) 2.3/ 4.0/ 6.0 2.2/ 2.8/ 4.0
Number of warp sheets 1 (2*) 2 (4*)
Reed density( teeth/ dm) 500 500
Max. number of frames (J/C-healds) 20 28
Max. number of frames (O-healds) 16 20
Max. rows of dropwires ____ 8
Number of dropwire paths ____ 2
Drawing-in element Hook Rapier
MACHINE CONCEPT: Modular system
The different modules of these machines are as follows:
1) Main Module Basic Equipment:
Part modules:
• Control cabinet and electrics.
• Base Frame
Function:
i) Static auxiliary function
ii) Supporting unit for the machine infrastructure iii) Holds electrics and pneumatics.
2) Yarn Drawn –in Module: Function:
Serves to guide the separated warp ends through the heald, drop wire and reed.
3) Yarn Supply Module: Part modules: • Lifting Device • Thread Frame • Yarn Separation • Yarn Supply Function:
i) Handling the warp beam and thread sheet
ii) Separating and preparing the warp end for drawn- in. 4) Heald Module:
Part modules:
• Heald Magazine
• Heald Separation
• Heald Distribution
• Shaft holder\ Stave holder (harness truck)
Function:
i) Handling the healds from the magazine stack ii) Distribution between the shafts
5) Reed Module:
Part module: Reed Transport Function: Reed Handling 6) Drop Wire Module: Part modules:
• Drop Wire Magazine
• Drop Wire Separating
• Drop Wire Distribution
• Drop Wire Transport( Harness Truck)
Function:
i) Magazing the drop wires.
ii) Distributing the drawn-in drop wires between the shafts. 7) Control Module
Part modules:
• Control Keyboard
Function: Controls and co-ordinates the module computers assigned to the main module.
8) Master System Module Part modules: • Keyboard • Monitor • Master computer • Printer Function:
i) Accepts the drawn-in data from the operator ii) Transmits it to the control computer.
iii) Manages the operating data. iv) Visualizes the process sequence.
SEQUENCE OF FUNCTIONS:
Band gripper starts the drawing-in sequence before all modules are ready for drawing-in.
If reed module is not ready, it reports after reed test.
Gripper enters the dent (can be stopped if reed module is not ready, otherwise
continues its forward motion.
Heald module reports at heald test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before passing through heald eye. If it is in ready state, gripper moves on.
Drop wire module reports at drop wire test. If it is not ready, band gripper is
stopped before penetrating eye of the drop wire. If ready, gripper moves on.
Yarn supply module reports at yarn test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped
before entering yarn take over. If ready, the gripper continues its motion.
After yarn take over, band gripper which grips the yarn withdraws.
Drop wire and heald distribution systems move on.
Reed transport ensures the reed position.
Yarn ejectors are actuated in position ‘e’ and ‘f’ (in the diagram).
One drawn-in cycle is over.
5. WEAVING
On the conventional loom, the warp beam is mounted at the back and the warp yarns are conveyed to a cylinder called the cloth roll, which is at the front of the loom and on which the fabric is rolled as it is constructed. Supported on the frame between these two cylinders( warp beam and cloth beam), the warp yarns are ready to be interlaced by the filling yarns that run in the width of the cloth, thus producing the woven fabric.
Four fundamental operations of weaving in any loom are as follows:
• Shedding: raising specific yarns by means of the harness or heddle frame.
• Picking : inserting filling yarns through the shed
• Beating up( battening) : pushing filling yarns firmly in place by means of the reed.
• Taking up and letting of : winding the finished fabric on the cloth beam and releasing more of the warp from the warp beam.
Classification of power looms used is as follows:
Looms
DOBBY JACQUARD No. of looms = 2 RAPIER AIR-JET
RAPIER LOOMS: these have a double rapier device that is, one on each side of the loom. one rapier feeds the filling yarn halfway through the shed of warp yarns to the arm on the other side, which reaches in and takes it across the rest of the way.
These rapier looms operate at speeds ranging from about 200 to 260 ppm at about the noise level of missile looms. They can produce a wide variety of fabrics ranging from muslin to drapery and upholstery materials.
AIRJET LOOMS: these looms use a jet of air to propel the filling yarn through the shed at rates of up to 600 ppm. Air jet looms require uniform filling yarns. They are more suitable for use with heavier than lighter yarns because the lighter weight yarns are more difficult to control through the shed. Yet, if the yarn is too heavy, the airjet may not be able to carry the filling across the loom. Within these restraints, the air-jet loom is effective and can produce a wide variety of fabrics. These looms operate at a lower noise level than the shuttle, missile, or rapier looms.
JACQUARD LOOMS: If the number of harnesses are more than 24, jacquard looms are used. Any intricate design or motive can be developed using these looms. 10,000 ends can be individually controlled in this loom
MACHINERY: Technical details
Installing the machine:
i) Lifting the machine by means of an overhead conveyor or fork-lift truck. Always, the right side is lifted first. ii) Leveling of the machine: leveling is
very important for the productivity and life of the machine. This has to be done with an accuracy of 0.3 mm/m over both the length and depth of machine. The level position of the machine has to be checked in 3 places: on the two frames and on the sley shaft.
Bidirectional communication : loom monitoring is done by the use of connector XCOMP at the bottom of the control box .
CONECTOR XCOMP SIGNAL 6 SELVEDGE BREAKAGE 7 IMPULSE 8 WARP BREAKAGE 9 START/STOP 10 FILLING BREAKAGE 11 VCOMP 12 RESERVE Control clutch:
Control of the clutch and brake is obtained by a fixed programmed electric control. This means that the current in the obtained clutch and brake coil can be changed by the micro-processor, but can’t be adjusted through keyboard.
Voltage on the clutch and brake coil = 340 V dc Resistance = 10 to 14 ohms.
Clearance between clutch disc and rotor = 0.3 to 0.9 mm. Clearance between clutch disc and brake coil = 0 to 0.05 mm
Starting cycle (weaving):
It consists of three phases as follows:
•A current which is about 5 times more important than the nominal current is first
sent, in order to obtain a short regular movement of the clutch disc.
•An intervening over excitation level, which is about equal to 3 times the nominal
current, until the clutch disc stops slipping.
• A maintenance level, about equal to nominal current during the
weaving cycle.
Weave settings for a symmetrical set-up of the warp beam with regard to the machine:
All settings can be carried out without warp beam and with the grippers in the machine.
• Marks on the reed holder
• Position of the slides
• The race board
• The lateral position of the left hand temple support
• The lateral position of the left hand temple profile
• Position of the filling guide
• Position of the right hand temple profile
• The temples: height and the lateral position.
• The reed :
i) Reed length (machine without tucking in device) = b + (35 to
40 mm)
(machine with tucking in device) = b + 70 mm; Where, b = drawing-in width in the reed.
ii) Position of the first warp yarn in the reed:
Machine without tucking in device = 15 to 20 mm Machine with tucking in device = 30 mm
iii) Position of the reed: 1mm from the filling guide.
• Position of the grippers (both left and right hand)
• Course of the gripper: should be done without a reed in the
sley to avoid any damage on the reed or grippers.
• Position of the gripper openers : sley position = 0 degree
• Setting of the gripper
Weave settings for an asymmetric set-up of the warp beam with regard to the machine:
Full set up is same as symmetrical except for that the left hand slide, temple profile, temple, filling cutter and tucking-in device are not moved.
Filling and waste cutters:
There are two blades- fixed and movable both of which should be lubricated daily. Fix blade is 1mm below the filling yarn.
Cutters are driven by cam and operate on every pick.
• Tension of the filling clamp
• Setting of the filling cutter: both the blades are moved till the fix blade is 1mm from the filling guide.
i) lateral position of cutter blades ii) depth(backrest) position iii) vertical position of fix blade