PREPARATORY PROCESS FOR WEAVING:
FUNCTION DESCRIPTION
GT511 electronic jacquard adapts 16-bit high performance handler for providing big function and ease of operation.
•The dot pattern liquid crystal display has Chinese operation I/F.
•The controller is equipped with 1.44 MB, DOS compatible,
3.5’’ floppy disc drive.
•Maximum speed = 1000picks/ minute
•Memory capacity = 8 MB. Therefore, data will not miss when in de-energized state,
for storing designs transmitted from floppy disc, to edit and weave the complicated JOB, which is formed by various kinds of patterns.
•Information in the controller and loom can be preserved.
•Controller has configuration function, if used on special looms. Parameters like
warp program, weft program can be set.
•It has eight LED’s on the panel to display the state of supply, controller and loom.
•System will automatically start to self test when energized or operated and provide loom’s test program for test weave when djusting the loom. .
• Many anti-interference ways to control power interference, radiation interference and conduction interference.
•Each operation has detailed instruction, it is not necessary for the customer to remember too much of the procedure.
CONTROLLER FASIA: This includes:
• LCD modular
• 20 buttons TECHNICAL DATA:
Temperature = -5 to 40 degree Centigrade
Relative humidity = 0% to 95% non condensation Power = 110 V +- 15% , 45 – 60 Hz
Power consumption = 60 watts COMMANDS:
Running state: LCD model displays :- i) Job number
ii) Pattern name iii) Weaved cycles
iv) Remaining cycles v) Weave pattern cycles vi) Current pick
vii) Current speed
• Pattern program • Application program viii)Pattern application program : a) Pattern directory b) Memory usage c) Pattern conversion d) Return
TOP PORTION OF JACQUARD (ATTACHMENT OF HARNESSES)
ix) Job list application program : a) Edit
b) Weave from first job c) Weave from current pattern
d) Weave from designated pick number e) Return
• Controller configuration
• Test program
• Exit
2. I. d
GREY FOLDING
Grey Fabric Inspection occurs in fabric inspection for the weaving/ spinning defects. The removable defects are removed and noted down, and irremovable defects’ location is noted down and the frequency is noted. There is a roller attatched counter which counts the number of metres inspected and helps in location the position of the defect. In 300 mtrs, if 30 points/100mtrs of defects are detected, then the fabric is a defective one. Inspection machine, s manufacturers are D. S. Topiwala.
Folding and Plaiting machine
1000/2500/5000 meters of plaited fabric blocks are formed as per requirement fabric passed through 4 sets of rollers cleaning inside the machine.
2 fabric beams are stitched together with a single needle chain stitch machine for acquiring the required amount of the length of the fabric roll.
2 plaiting machines of the make D.S. Topiwala Enterprise is present.
No. of Workers is 50/shift and the no. of machines is 12. The no of plaits of fabric folds to be formed can be set in the automatic plaiting m/c.
Fabric inspection m/c
Counter
2. I.e.CORDUROY
Corduroy is a fabric comprised of twisted fibers that when woven lay parallel (similar to twill) to one another to form the cloth's distinct pattern, a "cord." Modern corduroy is most commonly composed of tufted cords, sometimes exhibiting a channel (bare to the base fabric) between the tufts.
As a fabric, corduroy is considered a durable cloth. Socially, the clothes made from corduroy are considered casual, and are usually favored in colder climates during seasonal periods. Corduroy is most commonly found in the construction of trousers. The material is also used in the construction of (sport) jackets and shirts. The width of the cord is commonly referred to as "wale"; the size of the wale. The width of the wale makes some uses more common than others. Wide wale is more commonly found on trousers; medium, narrow and fine wale fabrics are usually found in garments used above the waist.
The Basic weave of the corduroy fabric consists of a chain structure in the back of the cloth and an uncut pile formation in the front.The pile are cut using a circular blade(cutter/knife) and a needle which guides the blde throough the uncut pile loop. Yarn dyed corduroy is manufactured as both bottom (thick) and shirtings (thin).
The density of the cutting rings is 21-28 rings/blades per inch. The cut fabric is collected in plaited batches.
Two suction tubes are present which continuously sucks in the particles released while cutting.
Pressing and brushing Machine
Water sprayed onto the fabric surface once entering the machine. 8 belts move clockwise and anti clockwise.
The process flow is:
Uncut Grey| |
Grey uncut brushed (dry conditioned) Grey Cutting (on Cutting Machine)
Inspection (Any uncut portion is again cut by razor, manually) Brush at grey cut(Wet conditioning)
Bleaching Dyeing Finishing
Corduroy (finish folding)
Production rate of the corduroy dept. is 600 to 700 metres/day
8 cutting machines are present
The make of the machines are Franz Muller(Germany)(for cutting , pressing)- 2
nos
- Bresgres(Bigger brushing machine)
- Amritsar
Brushing Machine
To and fro eccentric motion removes roughness further.18 circular rollers cum
brushers roll on the cut grey corduroy for brushing along the grain line.
12 steam cylinders are used for drying after steaming in the first chamber, for
improved softness. At a temperature of 50 to 60 digree Celsius. Corduroy inspection machines are Laxmi, tech shivam Industries, Vadodara)
In the brushing machine, moisture is imparted using a fine spray.
Then the fabric is passed through a set of 8 belts moving left and right alternatively. 5such sets of belts exist in the brushing system. After the brushing the cloth is stretched through a set of 8 cylinders. !6 eccentric rollers are used for further brushing. 2 sections with 3 rollers and 2 rollers are present before the plaiting.