Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design

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This publication reflects the views only of the author, and the Commission cannot be held responsible for any use which may be made of the information contained therein.

Agreement No.: 2007-3111/001-001 LE3-MULPRO

Virtual Training Centre for

Shoe Design

Common Curriculum

This project has been funded with support from the European Commission.

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3 CONTENT

Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design as a Model Development of Competence Based Curriculum Part I – Foot

Lesson 1.1. Knowledge on Foot Anatomy Applied to Footwear Design and Pattern Making

Lesson 1.2. Knowledge on Foot Biomechanics Applied to Footwear Design and Pattern Making

Part II- Footwear

Lesson 2.1. Materials Used for Footwear Products Lesson 2.2. Footwear: Structure and Functions Lesson 2.3. Lasts for Footwear Industry

Lesson 2.4. Footwear Technology

Lesson 2.5. Technological Allowances for Pattern Making Part III- Measurements and Tools

Lesson 3.1. Measuring the Foot - Foot Anthropometrics Lesson 3.2. Measurement Systems

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Lesson 3.3. Tools for Pattern Making

Part IV- Design and Pattern Making

Lesson 4.1. Principles and Elements of Design Applied to Footwear

Lesson 4.2. Basic Stages in Producing Footwear Patterns From 3D Design Lesson 4.3. Producing Standard Forme of the Last

Lesson 4.4. Producing Design Standard (Master Pattern) Lesson 4.5. Pattern Making for Women’s Court Shoe

Lesson 4.6. Pattern Making for Men’s Casual Shoe (Oxford, Derby) Lesson 4.7. Pattern Making for Children’s Shoe

Lesson 4.8. Pattern Making for Loafers

Lesson 4.9. Pattern Making for Trainer/ Sport Shoe Lesson 4.10. Pattern Making for Women’s Sandals Lesson 4.11. Pattern Making for Children’s Boots Lesson 4.12. Pattern Making for Women High Boots Lesson 4.13. Producing Lining Patterns

Lesson 4.14. Elements for Designing Bottom Components

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5 VIRTUAL TRAINING CENTRE FOR SHOE DESIGN AS A

MODEL

The rapidly changing technologies, as well as the innovative e-learning teaching methods require for adapted modules for lifelong training that keeps continuously up to date with the relevant developments of the European footwear industry. The Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design is an interactive platform, a meeting point for policy-makers, social-partners, practitioners, researchers and all those with an interest in footwear design field of vocational education and training. Experts in the field can share and exchange knowledge and experience with associates within and outside the European Union.

The project’s scientific and pedagogic objectives are in tune with the main priority in Lifelong Learning Programme. Through the various research and development projects, partners have developed training materials for footwear design. These materials have to be compared between involved partners in order to get common curricula to be share with future users at a European level. The innovative e-content, developed within the VTC-Shoe project, can easily be translated to various languages.

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6 DEVELOPMENT OF COMPETENCE BASED CURRICULUM

Recognizing competencies and skills needed in footwear industry and anticipating their development stand for a complex mission given several socio-economical factors, which must be taken into consideration. The stakeholders (VET schools, universities, employers, professional associations etc.) have to monitor this identification taking place at various levels: 1) deciding the overall competences development plan necessary for a successful business strategy, action that should be taken at the highest managerial level; 2) defining the new competence needs through involvement of employers and employees; 3) elaborating specific competences development plan; 4) developing learning environment.

The VTC-Shoe project attempted to design the competency-curriculum for VET under the area of a Virtual Training Centre. The study research was conducted in order to identify and explore the usefulness of the questionnaire tool in finding a suitable presentation form for a competence-based curriculum. The sampling method based on convenience and targeted colleagues, former students, business contacts from the footwear industry and their acquaintances, from Romania, Greece and Turkey. The questionnaire was developed based on planned curricula structure and on preliminary interviews with some experts from footwear industry and potential trainers and trainees. After its development with the partners in the project, it was applied on VTC-Shoe content development, and modified accordingly with the feedback obtained from piloting courses.

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The first part is about Foot. The second part is dedicated to Footwear. The third part deals with Measurements and Tools. The last part is about Design and Pattern Making.

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8 PART I – FOOT

LESSON 1.1. KNOWLEDGE ON FOOT ANATOMY APPLIED

TO FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit aims to identify and describe the main structure and functions of the foot in order to apply this knowledge to designing the footwear.

TOPICS

Identifying foot structure and its functions Identifying problems related to footwear CONTENT

1. Describe the structure and functions of the foot

2. The main foot structures: muscles, bones, joints, nervous system

3. Foot problems related to footwear. Structural and functional disorders of the foot.

LESSON 1.2. KNOWLEDGE ON FOOT BIOMECHANICS

APPLIED TO FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit aims to identify biomechanics parameters and to offer knowledge about gait analysis computer techniques

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Managing and collecting measurements of foot biomechanics parameters with computer techniques

Gait analysis is performed to obtain baseline data of consumer’s walk pattern CONTENT

1. Foot biomechanics 2. Gait analysis

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10 PART II- FOOTWEAR

LESSON 2.1. MATERIALS USED FOR FOOTWEAR

PRODUCTS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit aims to identify and describe the entire range of materials used in shoe production both for upper and for bottom components (leather, textile, substitutes, rubber, synthetics, non-woven etc.).

TOPICS

Identifying materials uses within footwear industry Recognizing characteristics of materials

Determining performance of materials

Identifying common faults, problems and surface defects of materials

Selecting and testing the materials accordingly with the purpose of the product CONTENT

1. Identifying/ Classifying footwear materials 2. Performances of materials for footwear

- Physical properties - Mechanical properties - Chemical properties

- Technological and usability characteristics of materials 3. List of international standards ( ISO) for footwear industry

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12 LESSON 2.2. FOOTWEAR: STRUCTURE AND FUNCTIONS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit presents various types of footwear considering their structure. The footwear components, both for uppers and bottoms, are presented in relations with their role for structuring and achieving the function of the entire footwear product.

TOPICS

Standard footwear types

Presenting the components of footwear: uppers (vamp, toe, quarter, counter, tongue, apron, tab, strips, linings, stiffener, toe puff) and bottom (insole, rigid insole backer, shank, bottom filling, insole cover, welt, middle sole, sole, heel) Identifying footwear components both for upper and for bottom, their role and recommended materials

Recognizing the functions that footwear has to fulfil during its use CONTENT

1. Footwear components: uppers and bottoms 2. Constructive types

3. Description of the main features and functions of footwear 3.1. Types of footwear (fashion, casual, sport)

3.2. Footwear features (uppers, soles, heels, lining, laces and buckles, etc.) 3.3. Features of footwear related to foot function and structure (size, shape).

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14 LESSON 2.3. LASTS FOR FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

Transferring the foot size and its general shape into definitive lasts includes variables such as nature and extent of functional demands, foot characteristics, styles and characteristics of the materials. This unit covers the theoretical knowledge regarding various types of lasts used in footwear industry, as well as the selection criteria of a last according to footwear design requirements.

TOPICS

Transforming the foot measurements into the last shape and dimensions Identifying various types of lasts and their build-up components

Measuring and controlling the last

Selecting an appropriate existing or commercial last which closely matches the required foot shape and size

CONTENT

1. Lasts for footwear industry 2. Classifying the lasts

3. Dimensional characterization of the last

4. Verifying the shape and the size using control patterns 5. Verifying the quality requirements

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16 LESSON 2.4. FOOTWEAR TECHNOLOGY

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit presents the entire manufacturing process, from pattern cutting through closing, lasting, soling and finishing.

TOPICS

Identifying the manufacturing process, from pattern cutting through closing, lasting, soling and finishing.

CONTENT 1. Cutting 2. Sewing 3. Lasting 4. Soling 5. Finishing

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17 LESSON 2.5. TECHNOLOGICAL ALLOWANCES FOR

PATTERN MAKING

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

There are three main types of allowances for the sectional patterns: lasting allowance, seam allowance and edge allowance The unit presents basics information for establishing these allowances according to the footwear manufacturing technology. Various design effects need special allowances and these can be estimated considering the treatments and materials involved.

TOPICS

Presenting and setting up the allowances for different edge treatments (folded edge, binding edge, laced edge, special effects etc.);

Presenting and setting up the allowances for different type of seams Presenting and setting up the lasting allowances accordingly with lasting technology

CONTENT

1. Basics for uppers preparation due with the edge treatment 2. Basics of uppers closing by sewing

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19 PART III- MEASUREMENTS AND TOOLS

LESSON

3.1. MEASURING

THE

FOOT

-

FOOT

ANTHROPOMETRICS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit defines and presents the anthropometrical parameters within the foot and leg. Foot measurements may be undertaken by using basic measuring devices such as ruler and measuring tape (manual techniques) or special equipments such as 3D scanners (computer techniques).

TOPICS

Marking the anatomical points on foot and leg

Measuring the foot and defining anthropometrical parameters

Managing and collecting measurements of foot parameters with computer techniques

Assigning the relation between main dimensions of the foot (length and girth) and shoe’s size

CONTENT

1. Anatomical points of the foot with an active role in biomechanics.

2. Anthropometrical parameters of the foot: length, width, girth, height, and angles 3. Variability of the foot dimensions and shape during standing and walking

4. Practice of measuring the foot and leg

4.1 Manual procedure for measuring the foot/leg 4.2 Computer technique for measuring the foot/leg

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21 LESSON 3.2. MEASUREMENT SYSTEMS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

To present various measurement systems by connecting foot and last measurements with footwear sizing.

TOPICS

Describing foot, last and footwear measurement sizing Interpreting design brief

Analysing and assessing sizing for footwear design

Adapting the measurements of foot to shoe design requirements CONTENT

1. Measurements of the foot transposed into measurements of the last 2. Footwear sizing

2.1. French (Continental) Measurement System 2.2. English Measurement System

2.3. American Measurement System 2.4. Mondopoint System

2.5. Sizing charts and transformation relation between various measurement systems. Measurement and comparison tables

3. The effect of poor-fitting or poorly made shoes 4- Shoe Size Conversion Tables

- Adults’ (Men and Women) Shoe Size Conversion Table - Girls’ Shoe Sizes

- Boys’ Shoe Sizes

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22 LESSON 3.3. TOOLS FOR PATTERN MAKING

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

In order to obtain good patterns it is necessary to know and select the essentials tools. This unit demonstrates which these tools are and how they are used for.

TOPICS

Presenting the tools for pattern making CONTENT

• B type various pencils • Cutting knife • Measuring tape • School rubber • Metal ruler • Compass • Protractor • Copying wheel • Scissors

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24 PART IV- DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING

LESSON 4.1. PRINCIPLES AND ELEMENTS OF DESIGN

APPLIED TO FOOTWEAR

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

In order to create a good product design, knowledge about the theory of elements and principles of design is required. The unit demonstrates how elements of design integrated into principles of designs could be used within the footwear product concept. TOPICS

Elements of design applied to footwear Principles of design applied to footwear

Examples, presentations and recommendations CONTENT

1. Introduction

2. Elements of product design: line, shape, form and colour

3. Principles of product design: repetition, pattern, gradation, rhythm, radiation, harmony, contrast, dominance, proportion, balance, and unity

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26 LESSON 4.2. BASIC STAGES IN PRODUCING FOOTWEAR

PATTERNS FROM 3D DESIGN

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit aims present the essentials of footwear pattern making in accordance with the design specification and manufacturing requirements. The student will be introduced with the VTC Shoe pattern making method. This method requires for 3D design to be created first directly on the last and then accurately transferred into a 2D standard design, and finally being transformed into working patterns.

TOPICS

Defining design lines and features on 3D last Translating designs from 3D to 2D standard forme

Drawing patterns to outfit required specifications of the footwear Modifying and adjusting patterns

CONTENT

1. VTC Shoe pattern making method 2. Stages in producing footwear patterns

2.1. Completing design specification and selecting the last 2.2. Producing the mean forme

2.3. Drawing the standard design grid

2.4. Drawing the 3D model directly on the last

2.5. Transferring design lines from 3D shell to 2D standard forme 2.6. Obtaining the 2D standard design of the model ( Master

Pattern)

2.7. Producing and modifying working patterns 3. Producing footwear patterns for boots and high boots

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28 LESSON 4.3. PRODUCING STANDARD FORME OF THE

LAST

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

The mean forme is the most important pattern in footwear design. If it is not accurate, all the patterns will reproduce the errors within the original mean forme. The unit presents several accurate methods of producing mean forme.

TOPICS

Identifying the forme-making methods: paper slotted forme, paper taped forme; Transposing the main anatomical points and lines on the last accordingly with their position on foot

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CONTENT

1. Introduction

2. Forme-making methods

2.1. Forme-making using paper slotted method; 2.2. Forme-making using paper tape method;

3. Flattening inside and outside formes and making adjustments in order to get the mean forme.

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30 LESSON 4.4. PRODUCING DESIGN STANDARD (MASTER

PATTERN)

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

The standard design gives a master pattern that represents the shape and the basic lines of the footwear model, and they are transposed into a 2D drawing.

It is very important that the design standard should have position points, and the basic lines should be clearly marked.

These points and basic lines are linked with the anatomy and biomechanics of the foot, and have to be in view during all the stages of designing and pattern making process.

TOPICS

Producing design standard in reference to foot anatomy, last construction/ characteristics and footwear style.

CONTENT

1. The link between foot anatomy and basic construction lines. 2. Auxiliary constructions lines

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32 LESSON 4.5. PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMEN’S COURT

SHOE

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

The classic court shoe is the most common model of women’s footwear. In order to get an accurate pattern for this type of shoe fitting correctly on the last, basic principles of pattern making are to be known as well as the necessary adjustments.

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for court shoe Drawing the outline for vamp, toe cap, quarter, counter

Obtaining design standards for court shoe Making and modifying the working patterns

Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets, working progress files

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1. Preparatory stage for pattern making

1.1. Selecting the last to meet the design specification

1.2. Designing requirements regarding the shape and specific outlines of the patterns

2. 3D modelling of the court shoe

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34 LESSON 4.6. PATTERN MAKING FOR MEN’S CASUAL SHOE

(OXFORD, DERBY)

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

Designing and producing patterns for classical types of men’s shoes, as Oxford and Derby models, are presented in this unit. The Oxford style is characterized by the fact that the vamp section is laid over the quarter sections. The Derby shoe is a lace-up style in which the quarters are laid on the vamp section.

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for Oxford/Derby shoe Drawing the outline for vamp, cap, quarter, tongue, back straps

Obtaining design standard for Men’s Oxford shoe Obtaining design standard for Men’s Derby shoe Making and modifying the working patterns

Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets, working progress files

CONTENT

1.2. Design requirements regarding the shape and specific outlines of the patterns

2. 3D modelling of the Men’s shoe 2.1. Oxford shoe

2.2. Derby shoe

3. Producing design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns 3.1. Design standard and sectional patterns for the Oxford shoe 3.2. Design standard and sectional patterns for the Derby shoe

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38 LESSON 4.7. PATTERN MAKING FOR CHILDREN’S SHOE

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

It is to be noted that children’s shoe is not a small size of an adult shoe.

Special features are required for this category of shoes due to different conditions and features that children’s feet have to perform.

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for children’s shoe Drawing the outline for vamp, cap, quarter, tongue, back straps

Obtaining design standard for children’s shoe Making and modifying the working patterns

CONTENT

1.1. Differences in pattern making between children and adults shoes

1.2. Identifying the design requirements regarding the shape or specific outlines of the patterns

2. 3D modelling of the children’s shoe

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42 LESSON 4.8. PATTERN MAKING FOR LOAFERS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

A low step-in shoe is called Loafer and it is characterized by the fact that no laces or other systems for setting up on foot are used. Designing this type of shoe requires special attention to the topline of the uppers that has to be according to the usability of the footwear. Elastic tape could be used and the patterns for uppers have to be designed taking the presence of this functional element into consideration.

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for boots Drawing the outline of sectional patterns

Obtaining design standard for boots

Making and modifying the working patterns

CONTENT

1.1. Selecting the last to meet to meet the design specification

1.2. Identifying design requirements regarding to shape or to specific outlines of the patterns

2. 3D modelling of the Loafers

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44 LESSON 4.9. PATTERN MAKING FOR TRAINER/ SPORT

SHOE

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

The constructive characteristics of this type of leisure/sport footwear lie in the uppers style as being the same for men, women and children. The uppers can be made from different types or combination of materials. They could have following patterns: split toe cap, outside counter, back tab facing, front facing and side flash (side stripe).

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for trainer/sport shoe Drawing the outline of sectional patterns

Obtaining design standard for trainer/sport shoe Making and modifying the working patterns

CONTENT

1.

Preparatory stage for pattern making

1.2. Identifying the design requirements regarding shape or specific outlines of the patterns

2.

3D modelling of the trainer/sport shoe

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46 LESSON 4.10. PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMENS’

SANDALS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

The most common method for sandal’s pattern making is by drawing the design lines and the sectional patterns directly on last. The 3D model is translated into the 2D standard forme and the working patterns are obtained.

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for sandals Drawing the outline of sectional patterns

Obtaining design standard for sandals Making and modifying the working patterns

CONTENT

1.1. Identifying design requirements regarding shape and dimensions

2. 3D Modelling of the women’s sandals

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48 LESSON 4.11. PATTERN MAKING FOR CHILDREN’S

BOOTS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This type of footwear should be produced on a last specially designed for a boot. For designing boots or high boots, we will use the mean forme of the last registered in the reference system. A standard design (master pattern) is constructed based on the same principles as described in lesson 4.4. The pattern making for boots is based both on the mean forme and on a geometrical construction, where some specific dimensions about heights and girths measured on leg should be taken from sizing tables.

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for boots Drawing the outline of sectional patterns

Obtaining design standard for boots

Making and modifying the working patterns

CONTENT

1.1. Differences in pattern making of shoes and boots

1.2. Identifying design requirements regarding shape and dimensions 2. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns

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50 LESSON 4.12. PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMEN HIGH

BOOTS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This type of footwear should be produced on a last specially designed for a high boot. For designing high boots, we will use the mean forme of the last registered in the reference system. The pattern making for high boots is based both on the mean forme and on a geometrical construction, where some specific dimensions about heights and girths measured on leg should be taken from sizing tables.

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for high boots Drawing the outline of sectional patterns

Obtaining design standard for high boots Making and modifying the working patterns

CONTENT

1.1. Differences in pattern making between shoes and high boots 1.2. Identifying design requirements regarding shape and dimensions 2. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns

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52 LESSON 4.13. PRODUCING LINING PATTERNS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit presents different ways of making patterns of lining for classic types of footwear (Court shoe, Derby shoe, Oxford shoe). At the base of lining pattern making lies the upper’s standard design having only the lasting allowance, without folding or sewing allowances. There are two types: joined linings by seam and free linings. Also, the linings could be from leather or from fabrics.

TOPICS

Presenting the role of lining

Producing lining patterns for Court shoe, and for Derby/ Oxford shoe

CONTENT

1. What is the role of lining?

2. Lining pattern making for men’s Derby/ Oxford shoe 3. Lining pattern making for women’s Court shoe

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54 LESSON 4.14. ELEMENTS FOR DESIGNING BOTTOM

COMPONENTS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

The basic construction grid for designing bottom components is presented in this unit. Practical exercises demonstrate the principles for designing main components of the bottom.

TOPICS

How to construct a grid for designing bottom components

Designing bottom components: insole, rigid insole backer, shank, bottom filling, insole cover, sole.

CONTENT

1. Basic construction grid for designing bottom components 2. Insole

3. Rigid insole backer 4. Shank

5. Bottom filling 6. Insole cover 7. Sole

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