QUALITY ASPECTS OF DREF II SPUN WEFT FLOAT WOVEN RAISED FABRICS

GE-International Journal of Engineering Research

Website: www.aarf.asiaEmail : [email protected] , [email protected]

QUALITY ASPECTS OF DREF-II SPUN WEFT FLOAT WOVEN

RAISED FABRICS

Atin Chaudhuri

Department of Jute and Fibre Technology, University of Calcutta, 35, Ballygunge Circular Road, Kolkata -700 019, India.

ABSTRACT

Weft float 2/1 twill jute blended fabrics were prepared using different core spun Dref-II yarns as

weft. Polyester, cotton and acrylic fibres were used as sheath material and polyester, nylon,

polypropylene filaments and jute yarns were used as core material of Dref-II yarns. Different

fabrics were prepared using 100% jute yarn as warp and different core yarns as weft. Physical

properties of these raised fabrics were compared among each other as well as with un-raised

fabrics. Highly packed weft yarn gives higher tog value in fabric. The fabrics with Jute core and

acrylic sheath weft yarn observed maximum flexural rigidity. The fabric with

polypropylene-cotton weft showed maximum work of rupture followed by polypropylene-acrylic and

polyester-acrylic weft yarn. Jute- polyester-acrylic weft float fabric showed minimum work of rupture value. The

fabric with polypropylene core and polyester sheath yarn as weft showed maximum tog value

followed by the fabric with Jute core and acrylic sheath yarn as weft. Higher tog value observed

for all raised fabrics as compared to their corresponding un-raised fabric.

Key word: abrasion resistance, bending length, Dref-II yarn, core-sheath, flexural rigidity,

A Monthly Double-Blind Peer Reviewed Refereed Open Access International e-Journal - Included in the International Serial Directories. 1. Introduction

Low cost fabrics with warm and comfort has a great use in winter to protect the life from cold.

Jute fibres impart strength and warm to the fabric and other conventional fibres used for apparel

purposes imparts comforts and good feel. Hence, yarn made from jute fibre blended with other

fibres is highly essential to manufacture the required fabrics. The raised fabrics suffer loss of

different favourable physical technical properties due to use of flyer or ring spun yarns. Twisted

and compact structured yarn faces loss of fabric-weight, warm and insulation property of the

fabric to a great extent during raising operation. It is expected that use of low twist and bulky

yarn has a great advantage for manufacturing a raised fabric with minimum loss of favourable

physical technical properties. In this respect, core-sheath structured yarns are very suitable to

achieve the desired physical properties of required raised fabric. With the advent of friction

spinning it is now possible to manufacture core and sheath structured bulk yarn by Dref-II

spinning frame. No work has been reported in literature so far in this direction. Efforts have been

made to analyse the performance of weft float raised fabrics manufactured by different Dref-II

weft yarns.

2. Materials and Methods

2.1 Materials

2.1.1 Fibres

1.5 D x 44 mm acrylic fibres of average tenacity, 27 cN/tex, 1.4 D x 44mm, polyester fibres of

average tenacity, 29cN/tex and 1.4 D x 42mm cotton fibres of average tenacity 22cN/tex, have

been used as sheath materials for the preparation of Dref-II yarns.

2.1.2 Filaments

Polyester (90 dtex, 32 filaments), nylon 6 (80 dtex 24 filaments) and polypropylene (100 dtex, 24

filaments) textured multifilament and Jute yarn (174.8 tex) yarns have been used as core

materials. Properties of material used has been listed in table 1.

2.2.1 Preparation of yarns

Different core yarns with polyester, polypropylene, nylon multi-filaments and jute yarn as core

with polyester, cotton and acrylic fibres as sheath respectively have been prepared in Dref-II

spinning frame. The physical properties of these yarns have been shown in table 2.

Dref-II yarns have been prepared with very low cost fibres such as low grade cotton, polyester

and acrylic as sheath and different filaments such as polyester, nylon, and polypropylene and

Jute yarn as core. These Dref-II yarns have been used as weft to weave weft float fabric. Each

fabric has been raised to study different important physical properties such as thermal resistance,

abrasion resistance, bending and tensile properties. Some of their physical properties have been

compared among the different fabrics.

2.2.2 Preparation of fabrics

12 fabric samples, 2/1 twill with 51 ends/dm and 136 picks/dm have been prepared using 275 tex

jute yarn as warp and different Dref-II yarns as weft (table 2) at bumping condition on flexible

rapier loom (make: James Makie, UK, model : MLP) having 113 Cm reed space and 180 picks

per minute. Each of these fabrics have been weighted and raised with the help of raising machine.

These raised fabrics have been weighted again. Thus % loss in each fabric weight has been

calculated for each type fabrics.

2.2.3 Evaluation of packing coefficient of yarns

The diameter ( d ) of the yarn was measured by projection microscope ( Make : WILD 3Z, W.

GERMANY, Model no. 377567 ) with a magnification 40 x. Average of 60 readings was taken

for the calculation of packing coefficient of the yarn by the following formula.

Packing coefficient (φ) =

Where Vd =

‘T’ is the linear density of yarn in tex,‘d’ is the diameter of the yarn in cm. and fibre density (ρ) of

the composite yarn was calculated with the following formula: Bulk density (vd)

Fibre density (ρ)

4T x 10 -5

A Monthly Double-Blind Peer Reviewed Refereed Open Access International e-Journal - Included in the International Serial Directories. P =

Where ρ a is the density of sheath fibre, ρ f density of core filament as the yarn so concerned, Pa

is the % of sheath fibres in the yarn, and Pf is % of core material in the yarn. Density of

polyester, nylon, polypropylene, acrylic, cotton and jute has been considered as 1.38, 1.14, 0.91,

1.16, 1.52, and 1.48 in g/cm3 respectively.

2.2.4 Measurement of tensile properties of yarns and fabrics

Yarns

Yarn testing was carried on Instron universal tensile tester (Model no. 4411) as per ASTM -

2256-75 method with test length of 50 cm. and test speed 300 m/min. Average of 50 different

observations was taken for each sample for calculation of tenacity, breaking extension, initial

modulus and specific work of rupture of the yarn as listed in table 2.

Fabrics

Weft-way fabric testing was carried on Instron universal tensile tester (model no. 4411)

as per IS: 1968 - 1969, with the length 20 cm x 5 cm and test speed of 300 mm/minute at a

pretension of 0.5 N. The result obtained was based on an average of 10 tests in the warp direction

of each sample for calculation of tensile properties of the fabrics as listed in table 3.

2.2.5 Measurement of bending length and flexural rigidity of fabrics

The fabric bending length and flexural rigidity were measured on SASMIRA stiffness

tester as per BS 3356:1961 method. Fabric stiffness as expressed in terms of bending length was

measured according to IS: 6490–1971 (Cantilever Test) in a SASMIRA stiffness Tester with a

specimen size of 25 X 200 mm. Flexural rigidity in both direction of the fabric can be evaluated

by the following formulae:

Warp way flexural rigidity (G1) = MC31x10-3 mg.cm

Weft way flexural rigidity (G2) = MC32x10-3 mg.cm

where, M= Mass of the fabric in g/cm2

C1 = bending length in warp direction in cm.

ρ a * ρ f

ρf * Pa + Pf *

C2 = bending length in weft direction in cm.

and overall flexural rigidity (G) = √G1G2

Average of ten observations was taken for each fabric sample as listed in table 4.

2.2.6 Measurement of abrasion resistance

The abrasion resistance of the fabrics was measured by Martindle Flat Abrasion Tester (Make:

Emeca Precision Instruments, Model no: 3907) using a standard (IS: 715) paper abrader for a

certain wear following AATCC–93–974 method. The abrasion resistance of the fabric samples

was given by digital display of the number of cycles of accelerated abrasion corresponding to the

appearance of the wear (first appearance of a hole on the fabric by wear and tear of the yarns).

Average of ten different observations was taken for each fabric sample.

2.2.7 Measurement of Thermal insulation of fabrics

The thermal insulation of all the fabrics was measured in tog using NIRJAFT digital thermal

insulation tester4. This method of measurement of thermal insulation is based on hot plate

method. In this thermal insulation test, the specimen test area considered was 706.85 cm2 ( = 30

cm). An average of three different readings was considered (table 5) for each samples.

All the fabrics properties were evaluated in the standard atmospheric condition maintained at

65%  2% RH and 20 2C as fibre properties prone to changes with varying temperature and

relative humidity5. The fabrics were conditioned for 72 h in the above mentioned atmospheric

conditions before testing5.

3. Results and Discussions

3.1 Tensile properties of fabrics

Tenacity

It has been shown from table 3 that the fabric made by polyester core and acrylic sheath Dref-II

yarn as weft produced maximum tenacity of the fabric followed by fabric made by polypropylene

core and acrylic sheath, jute core and polyester sheath, jute core and cotton sheath and jute core

and acrylic sheath Dref–II yarn respectively. The trend observed is same as that observed in yarn

tenacity (table 2). But the tenacity of the fabric made from polypropylene core and acrylic sheath

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position. This is due to high number of picks/dm, (138 picks/ dm) in case of the fabric made from

polypropylene core and acrylic sheath Dref-II yarn, which contributed to the additional strength of

this fabric. Each fabric has shown loss in tenacity as compared to parent fabrics after raising. This

may be due to uneven raising action on the fabric, which is reflected in the loss in weight

(table 3).

Breaking extension

Extension at break of un-raised fabrics has been shown higher than that of extension at break of

yarns due to the Crimp interchange within the yarn of the specimen as compared from table 2 and

3. For the un-raised fabrics the breaking extension has been followed the same trend as that of

extension at break of yarn. The extension at break for raised fabrics is more than that of the

un-raised fabrics as shown in table 3. This phenomenon is due to the greater possibility of yarn

extension up to the state of jammed construction as the yarns get finer.

Initial Modulus

It has been observed from table 3 that the maximum initial modulus is possessed by the fabric

made from Dref-II acrylic yarn with jute core followed by the fabric made from Dref-II acrylic

yarn with polyester core, the fabric made from Dref-II acrylic yarn with polypropylene core, the

fabric made from Dref-II acrylic yarn with nylon core and the fabric made from Dref-II acrylic

yarn without core. This phenomenon can be explained by the inter-fibre frictional effects. The

above exhibited fabric initial modulus trend in similar to the yarn initial modulus (table 2).

After raising, it has been observed from table 3, that the fabric showed decrease in initial modulus

for all the specimens when compared between raised and un-raised samples. This is probably due

to loss of fibres during raising which resulted in the thinning of the constituent yarns. This

thinning of yarns hampered yarn. To yarn friction effect, thus loss in initial modulus is counted.

Work of rupture

Work of rupture gives the combined effect of tenacity and breaking elongation, in other words, it

indicates the toughness of the specimen. It has been shown (table 3) that the maximum work of

rupture has been developed in the fabric made from Dref-II acrylic yarn with nylon core followed

by the fabric made from Dref-II acrylic yarn with polypropylene core, fabric made from Dref-II

properties of respective core filaments in Dref-II yarns have been reflected in the work of rupture

of respective fabrics.

3.2 Bending length and flexural rigidity

The bending length and flexural rigidity values for un-raised fabric (table 4) have been depicted

the stiffness related to handle properties. But after raising, it has also been shown (table 4) that the

fabric bending length and flexural rigidity has been improved for all the specimens. This has

attributed by the improvement in the fabric thickness of the raised specimen.

3.3 Abrasion resistance and thermal resistance

Table-5 shows the abrasion resistance is of un-raised fabric is maximum for the fabrics made

from Dref-II acrylic with nylon core, polypropylene core and polyester core followed by the

fabric made from Dref-II acrylic yarn with jute core and the fabric made from Dref-II without

core acrylic yarn. The above trend can be explained directly from the packing coefficient as

observed from table 2. It shows the Dref-II acrylic yarns without core and jute core have high

packing coefficient less is the mobility of the fibres in the yarns and hence poor abrasion

resistance.

After raising some of the fibres are lost and hence low abrasion resistance is as expected from

raised fabrics which is reflected from table- 2 under raised specimen column.

4. Conclusions

1. Fabric tenacity is found to decrease in case of raised fabrics, but their extension at break and

work of rupture increased, as compared to that of un-raised fabrics.

2. After raising the fabric initial modulus decreased when compared with un-raised fabric.

3. The flexural rigidity of the raised fabric increased as compared with un-raised fabric.

4. The abrasion resistance of all the raised fabrics in observed to decrease when compared to that

A Monthly Double-Blind Peer Reviewed Refereed Open Access International e-Journal - Included in the International Serial Directories. References

1. K. N. Chatterjee, A. Mukhopadhyay, B. Mitra and A. K. Samanta ,“Some studies on Jute /

Polypropylene blended fabric characteristics". Vol.22, Indian J. Text. Res., (1997) P118.

2. Mcon H Seo, Mary Reff, Ning Pan, Mory Boyce, P. Schwrtz, S. Baker. Text. Res. J. 63 (1993)

P123.

3. A. K. Sinha, MD Mathew and D. Roy, “Carpets from Jute / Polypropylene textured pile yarns".

Indian Text J. Vol.8, (1992) P60.

4. Debnath,S. and Madhusoothanan, M, Thermal resistance and air permeability of

jute-polypropylene blended needle-punched nonwoven, Indian J Fibre Text Res, 36(2), (2011)

p122–131.

Table –1: Tensile properties of core material used for preparation of Dref-II yarn

Core material Linear

density, tex

Breaking Load,

N

Tenacity,

cN/tex

Strength CV% Breaking

extension,

%

Initial

modulus,

cN/tex

Jute Yarn 174.8 43.71 25 18 1.56 1784.2

Polyester filament 9 3.12 34.65 2.32 21.55 227.5

Nylon filament 8 2.592 32.4 11.16 27.34 85.5

Polypropylene

filament

10 3.27 32.7 3.52 39.76 214.5

Table – 2: Physical Properties of Dref-II Spun Yarns

Type of weft yarn in fabric Tenacity

(cN/tex) Breaking Extension (%) Initial Modulus, (cN/tex)

Specific Work of

Rupture, mJ/tex. m

Packing

coefficient

Core Sheath

Jute Polyester 5.37 1.967 385.9 0.45 0.5235

Polypropylene Polyester 7.595 19.487 42.8 7.55 0.5162

Polyester Polyester 7.456 19.189 46.5 6.75 0.1623

Nylon Polyester 4.653 13.441 55.5 4.67 0.1258

Jute Cotton 4.067 2.054 263.7 0.38 0.5325

Polypropylene Cotton 5.604 25.043 31 12.14 0.1003

Polyester Cotton 4.179 16.251 72.9 4.53 0.1013

Nylon Cotton 1.872 19.88 34.1 6.88 0.2519

Jute Acrylic 4.615 1.988 338.8 0.40 0.4380

Polypropylene Acrylic 9.587 15.607 106.5 8.7 0.2486

Polyester Acrylic 7.782 17.645 55.4 8.0 0.1386

A Monthly Double-Blind Peer Reviewed Refereed Open Access International e-Journal - Included in the International Serial Directories. Table– 3: Tensile properties of fabrics.

Type of Dref-II weft yarn in

fabric.

Breaking load, N Tenacity,

N/mm

Breaking

extension, %

Weight

loss, %

Work of rupture,

N mm

Core Sheath UR R UR R UR R UR R

Jute Polyester 601.59 413.65 12.32 8.27 3.66 4.05 2.76 1840 1734

Polypropylene Polyester 488.88 452.6 9.78 9.05 23.43 24.22 3.86 11906 10996

Polyester Polyester 494.26 510.51 10.21 9.89 17.04 26.13 5.49 12.869 11883

Nylon Polyester 310.59 347.73 6.96 6.21 20.01 21.96 7.9 8939 7535

Jute Cotton 609.87 704.91 14.1 12.2 3.77 3.79 2.96 1926 1752

Polypropylene Cotton 333.35 337.81 6.86 6.67 38.52 39.28 1.3 18513 18386

Polyester Cotton 237.36 187.6 6.01 4.75 22.94 21.42 2.33 8502 7316

Nylon Cotton 166.51 168.21 3.36 3.33 34.32 32.73 1.17 9065 8314

Jute Acrylic 606.58 535.02 12.13 10.7 3.41 4.63 4.67 1628 1603

Polypropylene Acrylic 677.95 535.34 13.56 10.71 23.86 24.02 4.64 16882 16672

Polyester Acrylic 544.59 678.45 13.57 10.89 22.92 26.81 1.76 15279 11025

Table –4: Flexural rigidity of fabrics

Type of Dref-II spun weft yarn in

fabric.

Warp Flexural

rigidity (G1), mg.cm

Weft Flexural rigidity

(G2), mg.cm

Overall flexural rigidity(√G1*G2),

mg.cm

Core filament Sheath fibres UR R UR R UR R

Jute Polyester 5.5 5.5 5.7 5.5 5.6 5.5

Polypropylene Polyester 1.8 1.7 2.1 1.9 1.9 1.8

Polyester Polyester 1.8 1.7 1.8 2 1.8 1.8

Nylon Polyester 2.9 2.8 3 3.1 2.9 2.9

Jute Cotton 4 4 4.2 4.2 4.1 4.1

Polypropylene Cotton 2 2 2.1 2.2 2 2.1

Polyester Cotton 2 2 2 2.2 2 2.1

Nylon Cotton 2.6 2.7 2.8 2.9 2.7 2.8

Jute Acrylic 4.3 4.2 4.5 4.3 4.4 4.2

Polypropylene Acrylic 2.5 2.4 2.5 2.7 2.5 2.5

Polyester Acrylic 2.2 2 1.9 2.2 2 2.1

A Monthly Double-Blind Peer Reviewed Refereed Open Access International e-Journal - Included in the International Serial Directories. Table –5: Abrasion resistance and thermal resistance of fabrics

Type of Dref-II weft yarn

in fabric.

Abrasion resistance per 100 cycles with 600g load, weight

loss %

Thermal resistance,

Tog value

Fabrics (UR) Fabrics (R) Fabrics

(UR)

Fabrics

(R)

Core Sheath Initial

weight, g

Final

weight, g

Weight

loss, %

Initial Final Weight

loss, %

Jute Polyester 0.44 0.40 9.09 0.44 0.41 7.14 1.12 1.20

Polypropylene Polyester 0.34 0.33 2.94 0.33 0.30 9.09 1.17 1.27

Polyester Polyester 0.36 0.35 2.78 0.35 0.31 11.43 0.94 1.08

Nylon Polyester 0.40 0.39 2.5 0.40 0.37 7.5 0.94 0.98

Jute Cotton 0.44 0.40 9.09 0.44 0.39 11.36 1.06 1.12

Polypropylene Cotton 0.33 0.32 3.03 0.31 0.28 9.68 0.98 1.11

Polyester Cotton 0.34 0.32 5.88 0.33 0.31 9.09 1.04 1.10

Nylon Cotton 0.38 0.36 5.26 0.38 0.35 7.89 0.94 1.06

Jute Acrylic 0.42 0.38 9.52 0.42 0.37 11.9 1.16 1.23

Polypropylene Acrylic 0.36 0.33 8.33 0.37 0.33 10.81 1.13 1.29

Polyester Acrylic 0.31 0.29 6.45 0.29 0.26 10.34 1.08 1.12