Projector90™ Xenon Headlight Installation Guide
Written exclusively for Umnitza’s Projector90™ Product
This step-by-step guide is designed to be used in together with other available documentation including bumper removal, headlight removal, and your BMW E90 3-series Owner’s Manual. The information contained herein is a guide only and may not include every possible step required to successfully complete this install. By using this manual, the installer absolves all liability of Umnitza and/or any vendors retailing, wholesaling, or engaged in the sale/install of Umnitza products.
This installation will guide you through the following key steps:
1. Tool Requirement 2. Parts Identification 3. Bumper Removal 4. Headlight Removal 5. Headlight Install 6. Headlight Wiring 7. Optional Features 8. Completion
1. Tool Requirement a) Complete Socket Set – Including Deep Wall Sockets b) Torx Screw Driver or Bit Set
c) 2 Flat Head Screw Drivers – Small and Large d) 2 Phillips Head Screw Drivers – Small and Large e) Double-Sided Tape (for HID ballasts)
f) Needle-Nose Pliers g) Standard Pliers
2. Parts Identification Standard Includes:
2 headlights, Amber Turn Signal Bulbs, 2 Umnitza Chromium Style Angel Eyes, Halogen Bulbs (Lo/Hi),
Optional Includes:
Standard + HID ballasts (2), HID Bulbs (pre-installed), 2 Adapters (H7), 1 Wiring Harness (HID), 2 Resistors (gold)
HID Upgrades available are: 1) 35W Standard Analog
2) 35W Slim Inexpensive Kit Digital Lifetime Warranty 3) 50W Standard Analog
4) 50W Slim High End Kit Digital Lifetime Warranty
Contact your retailer for information on these options if you have not already ordered HID/Xenon as an option.
3. Bumper Removal
a. With the engine running/turned on, turn the steering wheel all the way left/right
b. Locate the two screws holding the fender liner to the bumper and unscrew them. c. Inside the fender
well area behind the headlight, holding the bumper edges to the top fender are 2 10mm bolts. After unscrewing these bolts, repeat on the other side.
d. Unscrew the 8mm bolts (8 total) that hold the lower bumper valence in place. All 8 are located around the lower perimeter of the bumper skin. It helps to have the car elevated here to see them.
3. Bumper Removal (cont)
e. Finally, remove the top 4 T30 Torx Bolts holding the top of the bumper skin in place.*
* It is advisable to have a friend assist with the removal of the skin. The removal is as simple as sliding the complete assembly forward.. Also, continued on the next page is a helpful tip when removing the skin.
When removing the bumper, be sure to disconnect the H11 connector to the fog light bulbs.
4. Headlight Removal
a. The headlight is held in place by bolts at all the
corners and requires a Torx screw driver to remove.
b. The headlight is screwed into a mounting bracket that is attached to the body of the car with similar screws c. One screw requires
the firm push back of the fender liner and may require the help of another person
d. Once the bracket is removed with the headlight still attached, unscrew the last 2 Torx screws
This photo summarizes the complete list of visible (circles) and non-visible (arrows) that hold the headlight and headlight bracket in place.
Summary*:
• 2 Top Screws (headlight) • 2 Kidney Screws (bracket) • 1 Inside Kidney Screw
(bracket and headlight) • 1 Fender Screw (bracket) • 1 Liner Screw (bracket &
headlight)
* Have a small box or dish to put all the screws into.
5. Headlight Install
The headlight install requires that some parts from the old light are removed and re-installed onto the new lights. In addition. The headlight must be attached to the mounting bracket, which is subsequently mounted onto the fender and kidney threaded bolt locations mentioned above in the headlight removal section.
Slide the headlight in, taking note of where the guide rails are. Loosely bolt everything together first before the final tightening.
a) Mounting clips removed from old headlight and attached onto new headlight
b) The plastic spacer brackets mount from the old light onto the top of the new light c) This is how the
headlight should appear when it is completely situated back onto the body of the car with the mounting bracket.
Wiring Instructions Should Be Followed Immediately after Test
Fitment – DO NOT FULLY INSTALL THE LIGHT HERE – return back to this step once all the wiring and testing has been
completed to secure the headlight in place.
6. Headlight Wiring (Summary Photo)
Below is a general diagram of how the overall wiring schematic will be installed followed by actual photos (as samples only) with identification of each part:
This simplified summary diagram displays all the pieces necessary for a proper install of an HID based Projector90™ System.
Positive (+) = Positive Wire from harness connects to positive battery post under car (under cap) Negative (-) = Negative Wire from harness connects to any bare metal ground point
Relay/Wiring Harness = “octopus” of wires that has power, ground, trigger, and power connectors* Relay Trigger = Not shown requires both a positive and negative “tap” - shown in later steps.* HID Components = Ballast (Steady Power), Ignitor (Start-Up Power), Bulb (Light Source), Adapter
(connector to OE adapter)
Resistor = Gold Connector – 2 black leads, one positive and one negative wired in series**
* For Standard Power Source to bypass the LCM (Light Control Module) of the vehicle ** For error prevention with on board display
6. Headlight Wiring (Step by Step)
Spread out the provided wiring harness. Make sure to note where positive, negative, trigger, and two power leads are located. At right, the
connections are shown in steps.
a) Positive Connector – here it connects to a 13mm nut just under the plastic trim piece covering the positive terminal post.
b) Fuse from Positive Connector – it is a good idea to remove this fuse until you are ready to use the system and then re-insert it.
c) Hidden harness. The harness can be mounted/hidden anywhere that is convenient. d) Positive and
Negative Trigger wires with SPADE connectors inserted into E.
e) Headlight terminal plug from car’s wiring harness.*
* Note how in this diagram the colors of the wires (positive/negative) are directly matching (black/blue). This may not always be the case (sometimes ground can be brown/black, and positive can be red/blue/white)
f) Recall the summary photo of how the wire taps work. For both negative trigger and positive trigger, an “add-a-tap” will tap the wires from the resistor onto the wires from the trigger of the relay/harness.
g) A golden resistor will need to be mounted on a ventilated, metallic, dry surface, away from plastics, loose wires, or debris. These resistors can be very hot to touch and may melt surrounding “soft” items mentioned above. When
mounted on metallic surfaces with just a screw (self-tapping) they are perfectly safe, however, this is not an
endorsement of their usage in the
specified area and a QUALIFIED ELECTRICAL ADVISOR should be consulted. h) For illustrative purposes, we used electrical tape as insulation here. We recommend either doing a soldered connection with insulation such as heat shrink tubing.
6. Headlight Wiring (Continued)
a) The HID ballast plugs into the igniter (a small black box) and the igniter into the bulbs. These are large 9006
connectors, they plug directly into each other only one way. In the photo shown at right, this ignitor is actually built into the HID ballast unlike the preliminary
summary drawing. This is to illustrate the HID can be integrated
ballast/ignitor and separated ballast and ignitor. b) The AMP
connectors for the HID bulbs coming from the ballast. c) Disregard the large,
round, connector; stow it away. We are currently working on
activating the auto-leveling feature of these headlights. Until there is a solution, ignore this connector
altogether.
d) At this time, test the light and all the parts of it – Xenon/HID,
Predator Chromium, high beam (Predator Xenix optional), and turn signals (LED optional)
To adjust the headlights:
The gold screw on the bottom adjusts
up/down, the silver
screw on the far right adjusts right/left. Remember that the driver’s side should be lower than the
passenger’s side to avoid blinding oncoming traffic.
7. Optional Upgrades
We recommend the following upgrades and complementary products: -Predator Xenix Hyper white High Beam Bulbs
-Lamin-X Clear Film Protection
-LED Turn signal bulb kit, in Amber or Xenon White
-HID Fog Light Conversion Kits (ProLumen or Piccolo Brand) -LED Side marker bulbs in amber or xenon white
8. Completion
If you have tested your lights, installed them back onto the car, and re-installed your bumper skin, your car should now look like this.
For troubleshooting steps, please contact your retailer so that any steps above can be further explained.
