Made of contrasting or matching fabric, decorative cords, narrow braids, or thread, button loops can be set into a seamline or along a folded edge individually or in a continuous strip. They can be widely spaced or side by side, as they were for one Patou jacket made in the 1920s, which had thirty buttons and loops at the front opening and ten on each of the fitted sleeves.
Fabric button loops should generally be narrow, round, and firm, but if oversized, they can create an unusual effect. The actual width of the loop is determined by the fabric’s weight and texture. Loops of lightweight, silky materials can be as fine as a single heavy thread. Those of bulky or thick fabrics are necessarily much wider. The dimensions recommended here are only a guide; make samples from your garment fabric to be sure the loops are correctly sized.
1. For lightweight fabrics, begin with a 1-in.-wide fabric strip cut on the true bias (see p. 82). For heavyweight fabric, make the strips 11⁄2 in. to 2 in.
wide. For individual loops, you can make several short strips. For loops set in a continuous strip, cut a strip long enough for all the loops and spaces in between, plus 3 in.
2. Right sides together, fold the strip in half lengthwise. Lap-baste a scant 1⁄8 in. from the folded
edge, increasing slightly more than 1⁄8 in. at the end
of the tube to make a funnel shape.
The button loops on this cardin blouse from the 1960s are only slightly larger than silk buttonhole twist. (Photo by Author.)
3. Shorten the machine’s stitch length to 20 stitches per inch; stitch on the basted line, stretching the strip as much as possible, which will narrow it.
4. Trim the seam allowances to slightly less than the tube’s width. Remove the bastings.
5. Thread a tapestry needle with a short length of buttonhole twist; fasten the thread at the funnel end.
6. Insert the needle into the tube, pull it out the other end, and turn the tube right side out. If the tube turns easily, it’s probably too wide; try making a narrower strip of tubing.
7. After turning the tubing, wet it and squeeze dry in a towel. Pin one end securely to the pressing board. Straighten the tubing so the seam isn’t twisted. Stretch as much as possible, pin the other end securely and leave it to dry. Don’t worry about the water staining silk tubing since the entire strip is wet.
8. Before setting the button loops, experiment with the shape you want. The loop can be held flat against the garment edge or it can extend out. Once you have selected a shape for the loops, thread-
trace the top and bottom of each loop location on the garment.
9. Mark the loop’s finished length on the tubing, leaving at least a 3⁄8-in. seam allowance at each end.
Setting individual loops. Individual button loops are frequently sewn into a seam at the opening, but they can also be set into a fold at the edge.
1. To set individual loops into a seam, begin right side up. Pin and baste the loops in place so the marked finished length on the loops is aligned with the marked seamline and the loop seams are face up. Before sewing, I check to be sure the loops are identical in shape and length and correctly spaced.
2. Right sides together, baste and stitch the facing to the garment to secure the loops.
3. To set individual loops on a folded edge or extended facing, use an awl to make a hole for each end of the loop. Carefully work the garment threads apart without breaking them. From the
StitCHing tuBe turning tuBe Setting individual looP
in a Seam
Button looPS
Setting individual looP in a Fold
Thread-traced foldline
Setting multiPle looPS
Funnel shape at end Machine stitching 1⁄8” Funnel at end Trim Tapestry needle Buttonhole twist Short machine stitches Thread-traced seamline Sew loops at seamline 3⁄8” Loop seam Extended facing Make a pair of holes with an awl
Insert loop end in foldline or sew end to facing Hand sew
to edge
right side, insert a loop end into each hole. Adjust it to the desired length; baste. Repeat for the remaining loops; sew the ends securely to the interfacing or stay.
Setting multiple loops. Several methods can be used to sew multiple loops from a single length of tubing.
1. For an edge with a seam, sew them into the seamline using the directions above for setting individual loops.
2. For an edge with a fold instead of a seam, secure the ends of the looped strip, using the directions above for setting loops into a fold; or by turning under the tube’s raw edges and sewing them to the facing. To make the loops, sew one end of the tubing to the edge. When the loops have a space between them, make the first loop, then sew the tubing to the facing for the desired distance. Continue until all loops are sewn. Trim the excess and turn under the end. Stitch it permanently.