A well-made neckline that lies precisely as the designer intended is a hallmark of couture construction. There are many ways to achieve this end, from small weights to elaborate harnesses, and the design of the neckline determines the approach needed to tame it.
Weights and Boning. A draped cowl neckline can be held in place with small weights covered with plain-weave silk or organza and sewn with a small French tack to the inside fold of the drape. A deep V-shaped neckline will lie smoothly if anchored at the deepest point of the V with a boning stay.
1. Stabilize the neckline early in its construction to eliminate any gaping (see p. 54).
2. Sew a narrow silk tube about 4 in. long.
3. Insert a 3-in. piece of polyester boning or a man’s shirt stay into the tube.
4. After the neckline is finished, sew one end of the tube to the facing about 1⁄4 in. below the neckline. 5. When the garment is worn, the bottom of the anchor slips into the bra and the neckline clings to the body.
elastic Stays. An elastic stay can also be used to tighten necklines, such as the sweetheart neckline on the evening gown on p. 138, or hold an off-the- shoulder neckline in position. This stay is a piece of elastic held in a thread casing of catchstitches.
These directions are for applying the elastic stay at a neckline.
1. Facing side up, pin a piece of braided elastic—the kind that narrows when stretched—to the neckline facing without stretching it.
2. Use catchstitches to make a casing over the elastic.
short polyester stays like those used on men’s shirts, here on a dress by designer James galanos, were inserted into self-fabric tubes, which could be tucked into the wearer’s bra when worn. (Photo by Author.) Catchstitch Front Lining inTerFacing The arMscye
3. Baste one end of the elastic to the facing so it won’t pull out.
4. Pull up the other end of the elastic so it is about 1 in. shorter than the length of the neckline. Baste the end of the elastic to the neckline facing and cut the elastic, leaving an extra 2-in. tail. Since it is basted, the elastic length can be adjusted at the next fitting and the fullness adjusted.
5. After the fitting, trim the elastic ends. Use catchstitches or whipstitches to sew them securely to the facing.
claire’s hint
If the elastic needs to be replaced at a later date, remove the old elastic and sew a short length of buttonhole twist thread to the end of the new elastic to thread it through the casing.Square neckline control. Use an elastic stay to control a square neckline and keep it from gaping. One of the advantages of this stay is that the
neckline will be held smooth at the front and the back can be loose.
1. Cut the elastic long enough to extend from one front corner of the neckline around the back to the other front corner.
2. Sew one end of the elastic to the facing at one corner; sew a snap socket to the other corner. Sew the snap ball to the free end of the elastic.
3. If the neckline sags a little despite the elastic, use a piece of polyester boning to keep it smooth. Cut the boning 1 in. longer than the neckline width, insert it into a narrow silk tube and catchstitch the tube to the neckline facing 1⁄4 in. to 1⁄2 in. below the neckline.
Harnesses. Designs with deep décolletés, low-cut necklines, or wrapped surplice designs are more difficult to control, particularly when they are not close-fitting. To solve the problem, low-cut couture blouses and dresses have harnesses that
designed by castillo, the sweetheart neckline on this beautiful ball gown will never gap. At the neck edge, an elastic stay is inserted into a thread casing, then tightened so the edge will cling to the body and still be comfortable. (Photo by Taylor Sherrill. Author’s collection.) conTrolling an oFF-The-shoulder neckline Dress Facing Dress conTrolling a square neckline Facing
Boning covered with silk tube Snap
Snap
Elastic Overcast edges
attach to a narrow waistband. The specific design of the harness varies with each neckline, but they usually have a band that snugly fits the waist or under the bust. The shoulder straps extending from the waistband are either sewn to the garment shoulder seams or held in place with lingerie guards to keep the garment from shifting when it’s worn.
I first saw a harness on a YSL evening blouse with deep décolleté at center front and back. To control the neckline, silk straps were sewn to a waist stay. On the front, two straps were placed to form a triangle from the waist to the shoulder, bypassing the bust. On the back, one of the front straps continued to the back waist. At the shoulder, they were held in place by a lingerie guard.
Another much simpler harness was on a dress by American designer Valentina. The harness consisted of two long straps attached at the
shoulders. Made of seam binding, the straps crossed in front at the bust and tied in the back at the waist.
The harness on the Oscar de la Renta dress, below, is similar to one I saw on a Balenciaga. The dress surplice back wraps loosely; without the harness, it would fall open and shift off the shoulders.
1. To determine the amount of grosgrain needed, you’ll need two straps and one waist stay. For
the straps, measure the length from your back waist to the shoulder; multiply by two; add this measurement to your waist measurement. Add
1⁄4 yd. for seam allowances
and finishing the ends of the waist stay.
2. Make the waist stay using 1⁄2-in.- or 1-in.-wide
grosgrain. To finish the ends, see p. 140.
3. Pin and baste the straps on the back of the stay about 3 in. from center back, letting the ends extend about 1⁄2 in. below
the stay.
4. Wrong side up, place the harness on the bodice. Pin the straps to the shoulder seams. Don’t cut the straps too short at the shoulders so they can be lengthened if needed.
5. At the fitting, check the strap length. Adjust as needed.
6. Turn under the ends of the straps at the shoulder seams and waist stay. Use fell stitches to sew them at the shoulder seams. Use whipstitches at the bottom of the waist stay and catchstitches at the top.
designed by oscar de la renta, this two-piece silk matelassé dress was inspired by a 1961 balenciaga design. it has a graceful surplice wrap in the back and a soft blouson in the front.
(Photo by Taylor Sherrill. Author’s collection.)
The harness—also inspired by the balenciaga design— which prevents the bodice from falling off the shoulders, is easy to see when the back is opened.
(Photo by Taylor Sherrill. Author’s collection.)