Core Category (Phase1) Clothing Attributes

5.3.2.3 Core Category (Phase1) Clothing Attributes

The discussion in the previous section may provide insight to the association with ‘designer and niche clothing’. Indeed the theme of ‘price and exclusivity’ with ethical clothing emerges within the category ‘CLOTHING ATTRIBUTES’. The associations that emerged in relation to clothing attributes; particularly in relation to Ethical Fashion, Eco-Chic and Eco-Fashion, were expressed with some negativity and distance, indeed perceived as being out of reach for the mainstream consumer. Discussion of these associations revealed that the participants did not normally associate the language of ethical fashion with clothing. Other than the familiar codes Fairtrade and Organic which were associated with Cotton and the code Sustainable that was associated with Oxfam and the ‘recycling’ of clothes, the a-priori

Core Category (Phase1): Clothing Attributes

Table 5:22 Category of Association: Clothing Attributes

Key themes: Designer, Ethnic/Rustic, Cotton, Boring & Bland

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codes were in fact more typically associated with generic product attributes and food (see tables 5:23 & 5:24 below), a powerful frame of reference that was evident in every focus group discussion and, it seemed, deemed to be more accessible in terms of active mainstream consumer behaviour.

The following quotes were indicative of the conflicting nature of the associations that were made and the reason, perhaps, why a number of a-priori codes do not appear in this category of association.

“ When you talk about like environmental, I might think of fashion and the environment”

KAT

“You see I don't. I think with the whole eco and environment and stuff I think more about things involving chemicals and manufacturing harming you with chemicals (Kat: Cotton?) Yeah...my mum buys eco cleaning products (Gemma: yeah and like the washing powder and things like that ...) and I think with Fairtrade, I think generally more people seem to be involved with Fairtrade more with food because its more accessible. It’s sort of...like Fairtrade chocolate is kind of everywhere really and Fairtrade coffee is...”

SASKIA

Emergent Core Category: Generic Product Categories

a priori code Thematic Code %

Eco Friendliness, no harm

Detergent ^26% _4%

Organic, Price 4%

Fairtrade, ^Price 4%

Green Natural, goodness 14%

Recycled Eco-friendly

9%

Sustainable Longevity Price 13%

4%

Ethically Conscious Price 9%

Table 5:23 Category of Association: Generic Product Categories

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Emergent Category: Food Attributes

a priori code Thematic Code %

Organic Food, Freshness,

Health ⁶⁹

%

Fairtrade Food, Labels,

Supermarket ⁶⁹

%

Table 5:24 Category of Association: Food Attributes

In the responses of a number of participants, there was evidence of difficulty in making associations between these words and clothing, particularly with reference to the codes

‘Eco-Chic’ and Eco-Fashion’, terms which had been used in the media promotion of ethical clothing. Indeed, prior to making an association with a number of codes in relation to clothing, participants were seen to make strong attempts to define the words for themselves first. This is indicated in the quotes that follow;

“I've done the same thing (again) - I've started to talk about what it is.

I've put clothes made and sourced in an ethical way.”

RUTH

“I've done the same sort of thing again. Because I was a bit like that (hand rock to show confusion) about eco anyway I've put environmentally friendly clothes.”

AMANDA

“I guessed...it sounds like dressing on a budget so people who wear second-hand clothes and shop at charity shops.”

LAURA

“I put cotton clothes. I didn't really understand it.”

VANESSA

“I just thought clothing.”

CLAIRE

“I just put clothes, fashion clothes, I think.”

JACKIE

Although there were some associations with clothing, the nature of the clothing was unclear and appeared to be somewhat confusing. Given the associations with other products and reference to product labels, some participants were asked whether they had seen these words on packaging, or labels to do with clothing. Their responses indicated a distinct lack

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of awareness in terms of garment labelling and a lack of engagement with any forms of promotion.

“I don't think I've seen any clothing, have I? I've no idea what… have you seen it on the clothing?”

JACKIE

“I don't see many clothes with organic on it.”

VANESSA

“No, it’s not advertised…I don't know, I don't know. I've never seen it on clothing. It's not widely advertised much on clothing, more on foods, than it is on clothing.”

JACKIE

The associations held by some of the participants with regards to the attributes of ethical clothing were related to ethnic styling and cultural dress, indicative of limited knowledge or simply a misinterpretation of the word ethical. Indeed this is a concern expressed by a participant that had some awareness and knowledge of ethical fashion;

“…When I first started, business people would say oooh its ethnic (laughs)...It just that all those words blur into one and they haven't got a defined...they haven't got a definition in terms of branding and marketing.

RUTH

The root of the negative associations with ethical fashion were at this stage unclear but it was evident that amongst participants there were distinct limitations in a knowledge base, frames of reference or prevailing schema, on which to build associations with clothing.

Indicative perhaps of a link to Phase 1’s theoretical codes of ‘CONFUSION’ and ‘APPEAL’

(see figure 5:8).

5.3.2.4 Core Category (Phase1)

By way of contrast with discussion in the previous section, the thematic codes listed in Table 5:25 above, suggest a relatively high level of awareness and understanding with regard to the concept of Fairtrade in particular and with the benefits and requirements of retailer engagement. It appeared that the frame of reference informed by participant awareness of or engagement with generic ‘ethical’ household products and food products had led to associations with the practice of product sourcing and an appreciation of the impact of retailers’ sourcing decisions. The thematic codes suggested a set of consumer expectations of retailers and a conceptual fit with the theoretical ‘COMMITMENT’

developed in Phase 1 analysis (see Figure 5:10). There was little discussion of retailers in relation to the word association exercise, this could have been indicative of a certain level

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of clarity in terms of participants’ expectations of retailers, however, at this point, that was unclear to the researcher.

Table 5:25 Category of Association: Retailer Behaviour

Key themes: Fairtrade, Sourcing

5.3.2.5 Emergent Category: The Environment

Despite the observation that both generic products and food products appeared to provide a strong frame of reference for the associations made by the participant groups, the strongest set of thematic codes (associated with 75% of the a-priori codes) were categorised by ‘THE ENVIRONMENT’ and in particular the themes of climate change.

Upon closer inspection of the initial codes and source responses to the word association exercise, it seemed likely that the most influential frame of reference within this category was that of domestic recycling. However, despite the clarity of the association with climate change and domestic activity, there was evidence in related discussion of some tension between levels of awareness and knowledge of these concepts and participant understanding of the associated terms. Insight to this dilemma or possible dichotomy in knowledge and understanding is provided in the extracts presented below with reference to the a-priori code ‘eco’;