Design context

The design context for the research set out in this section discusses the significance of the digital laser-dye process in terms of synthetic materials and potential product application;

textile design and patterning opportunities; and the environmental design considerations for the work.

3.1.5.1 A material-led approach: synthetic fibres

Polyester (PET) fibres were the main focus of this study due to their affinity to laser modification, supported by existing studies in this research field. Two standardised polyester fabrics were used in this investigation – one plain weave and one knitted jersey, as detailed below. This variant facilitated the transferability goals of the laser-dye process in terms of exploring the feasibility of consistent processing parameters between the two fabric structures and identifying where individually specified parameters needed to be applied based on the difference (further discussed in chapter 5).

 Woven polyester - supplied by project partners, SDC

Fibre: 100% polyester; Type: staple fibre; Condition: un-dyed; Construction: 1/1 plain weave, warp: 23,5 per cm, Weft: 20,5 per cm; Yarn: warp – 7,5tex Z 1000 X 2 S 800, R 15 tex; weft – 20 tex S 800

 Knitted polyester - supplied by Crystal Martin, International apparel manufacturers Fibre: 97% polyester/3% elastine; Type: jersey knit; Name: BILLY; Condition: piece dyed off-white; Width: 150cm; Structure: 28 gauge single jersey, 17Dex 180 gm per sqm2, 57 courses – 3cm, 49 wales – 3cm

Potential applications of the digital laser-dye process for sportswear apparel which is widely manufactured from PET (and other synthetic materials), have been considered in this work, in relation to the author of this research’s previous textile design practice and interests. From a functional perspective, performance materials are mostly manmade substrates due to properties such as durability (higher than average wear and tear), wicking (quick drying), resistance to light and weather elements, for example. The link between synthetic PET materials and sports clothing explored in this research is further discussed in Chapter 5 of this thesis which presents and discusses the research results.

3.1.5.2 Textile design: patterning

This study is positioned within a coloration context for surface patterning with dyes. As described, digital laser-processing enables patterning from computer-aided design to laser modified textile fibres. Great precision and intricacy was achievable due to the high-resolution capability of the laser beam via raster scanning methods. High resolution relates to a ‘dots per inch’ (DPI) understanding used in printing processes to describe the sharpness or blurriness of an image that can be appropriated with such approach. This helps to explain the laser beam

spot as an image creation tool. Vector CAD/laser scanning approaches were also explored in this study. Both methods are further explained in Chapter 5.

The laser-dye process offers the possibility to have tonal colour characteristics embedded into the design concept and final product. Preliminary sketchbook drawings and developmental studies were manipulated and refined to form patterns, which reflect a particular aesthetic direction in relation to the ideas which informed the construction of designs (previously discussed in section 3.1.4.2 of this chapter). These included tonal gradated colour (from light-to-dark/dark-to-light) to represent the human body in motion such as during sport; and repeated stylised cell-like structures inspired by biological and botanical bonds, structures and linkages found in nature, human and animal biology. This purposeful approach as a designer is described by Papanek (1984, 2^nd ed., p. 5) as imposing our intent through the order and arrangement of shape, size and alignment toward aesthetic value and the satisfaction of outcomes.

In addition, creative exploration in this study references woven jacquard effects within a sportswear context such as football jerseys, for example. Experimentation within these design parameters facilitated logical exploitation of a laser-dye process appropriate to the scope of this study.

3.1.5.3 Environmental considerations in relation to design

The environmental opportunities of a laser-dye process were considered in this research which influenced the design approach to colour and pattern relating to the appearance of colour through tonal difference. The ability to adopt low dye quantity methods identified opportunities to limit effluent/waste water and reduce resources. As such, less dye produced lower percentage depths and a lighter coloured base cloth. Colour became less saturated reducing ‘relative purity’ as Horning (2005, p. 28) explains. The textile therefore appeared visibly lighter as a paler shade was exhibited. In terms of a textile design collection, this approach facilitated further tonal variety such as two-toned effects between untreated and laser-dyed areas. This enabled greater creative opportunity as a designer. Normally, a textile design collection will intentionally emphasise or understate the effect of certain colours. A combination of colours in a colour palette or colour-way show harmony/contrast, proportion and depth i.e. value: hue or saturation differences.

Despite using minimal dye in some experiments during this study, compared to standard quantities required, the patterning element of the design remained distinct. This was due to

the increased dye uptake characteristic of the laser-dye process. The visual contrast of the laser-dyed fabric, between the untreated base cloth and laser pattern in some results demonstrated improved aesthetic design qualities, identified in the design development stages. This discovery indicates how exploring reduced dye quantities can combine both environmental and creative principles towards sustainable design concepts in textile production. Thus, identifying a distinct environmental design opportunity for laser-dye methods and techniques, explored in this research.

3.1.6 Summary

This section discusses the key characteristics of the practice-led research methodology employed in this study. These have been defined as: Interdisciplinary approaches in design research which sets out the context for the work undertaken in relation to the multidisciplinary nature of the project; Collaborative approaches in design research which further contextualises the environment for the work based on the collaboration with industrial partner, the SDC; Defining practice-led research relevant to this study outlines the attributes of the approach applied; Textile design practice in this study discusses the relevance of the author of the research’s creative background in printed textiles and surface design, corresponding with the patterning/coloration design direction of the project from a textile design perspective;

and Design context identifies the relevance and significance of the research in terms of synthetic materials and potential product application with a focus on sportswear, surface design in terms of patterning/coloration and the design considerations for the environmental opportunities of the digital laser-dye process relevant to both textile production and creativity.

The following section describes experimental methods carried out regarding the practice-led methodology employed.