Chapter 3: Methodology
3.2 Part 2: Methods
Part 2 of this chapter sets out the methods used to carry out the investigation in relation to the research methodology applied, as discussed previously in Part 1 of this chapter (section 3.1).
Combined methods employed in this research, also referred to as a mixed method approach are explained in order to ascertain how both quantitative and qualitative aspects were managed. In this section, the quantitative and qualitative methods used have been defined and further described within the context of this work.
3.2.1 Combining quantitative and qualitative methods in this study: a mixed method approach
The interdisciplinary framework of this project established the platform for combining both quantitative and qualitative research methods. This involved textile design, optical engineering, dyeing chemistry and industry Interaction. Such arrangement allowed the creative, technical and scientific aspects of the work to be addressed through a collaborative approach, in that partners involved from each area contributed to discussions and the direction of the work. The diversity and distinction between disciplines required an essential crossover in methods as to pursue the investigation holistically (Design Council 2010, p. 31). This combination of methodologies mixes methods by linking paradigms and utilising varied approaches in a way that aids a more rigorous grasp of the inquiry, unobtainable with a limited single discipline approach.
Creswell (1994, p. 174) describes ‘within methods’ and ‘between methods’ as a way of identifying how combined quantitative and qualitative styles may be understood. He explains a ‘within methods’ approach might consist of different kinds of quantitative data collection strategies (or a single methodology) such as a survey and experiment, for example. In the
‘between methods’ approach, both qualitative and quantitative data collection procedures are involved such as a survey and in-depth interviews, for example. Based on this notion, a
‘between methods’ approach best describes this study. Combined quantitative and qualitative data collection procedures explored included scientific, technical and creative experimentation, personal and collaborative thought and discussion (recorded in note form), verbal/written feedback based on the exchange and analysis of outcomes within a multi-disciplined project team, from a textile design perspective. This intersecting based on a single discipline starting point highlights the multi-layered character of the study. Overlapping issues commonly emerged during the experimental, reflective, formal and informal discussion (project meetings and one-to-one exchange) phases of the work. Such crossing over
presented its own challenges when considering the organisation of results. Thematic documentation (outlined in section 3.2.1.1) in particular became challenging due to the holistic inclusive nature of the project.
3.2.1.1 Summary of methods used in this study
The quantitative and qualitative methods used in the research are summarised in Table 5.
This information defines the work carried out in relation to specific practices. In doing so, a mixed method research approach is demonstrated in this work.
Method Description of method
Textile Design Research | Mixed Method Approach
Quantitative
Industry standard (ISO) dyeing
Employing certified ISO procedures based on calculated measurements and quantities, specific procedures, ISO equipment dyes and dye profiles to enable accuracy, repeatability and replicable results.
Digital microscopy
Undertaking fibre analysis to gain a scientific understanding of the physical impact of laser modification to textile fibres in relation to the chemical effect on dye uptake capability through micrography.
Colour measurement and
analysis
To quantify and reliably communicate tonal colour of laser-dyed fabrics using ISO procedures: Reflectance Spectroscopy; CIE Lab Colour Model; Delta E Colour Difference, Wash fastness tests and additional digital methods such as Grey Level computer software.
ISO Textile performance tests
Textile testing to further understand the physical impact of laser modification to textile fibres in relation to potential development of the laser-dye process for textile products and applications including: Tensile Strength, Tear Resistance, Bursting and Dimensional Stability tests.
Data analysis / interpretation of
results
The presentation and discussion of experimental results that embody statistics in the form of calculated numerical values, figures and variables displayed as: results tables, graphs and diagrams
Qualitativ e
First-hand interactions
Experiential contact with people and equipment in different environments/places – practical and observational involvement e.g.
inductions, training, experiments and discussion.
Extended design experiments
Using results obtained in initial structured experiments and selecting specific aspects for further creative exploration e.g. tonal density of a pattern or area of a design.
Thematic documentation of textile samples
Categorised sampling to facilitate the development of different knowledge types (processing parameters and machine characteristics, anomalies, software issues and CAD aspects) in relation to design concepts regarding pattern/colour development, novel surface effects and aesthetics.
Chronological log book
Personal/dated records of practical experiments with hand written and drawn information relating to experimental preparation, actual experimental activity (data collection) and reflective notes.
Textile design collection
Creative exploitation of digital laser-dye processing parameters by generating a range of textile samples and garment prototypes that demonstrate the artistic aspects of the work and potential product applications.
Formal / Informal meetings
Engaging in group meetings and one-to-one discussions with project partners and associates to aid knowledge exchange through the contribution of ideas and expertise towards project development.
Documented meeting notes
Maintaining dated log books with written entries and additional meetings notes to facilitate reflection before/during/after practical action; Recognising the value of recorded verbal dialogue to inform decision making and
progression.
Table 5: Quantitative and qualitative ‘mixed methods’ used in this research
3.2.2 Defining quantitative research methodology in relation to this study
Quantitative research methods are concerned with systematic experimental data collection i.e. surveys and experiments and the quantifiable explanation of results and observations based on statistical analysis. Wolberg (2010, pp. 1-2) explains, key phases of quantitative experiments can be defined as ‘Design’ (equipment, layout and setup), ‘Execution’ (the physical process of obtaining data), ‘Data Analysis’ (details, values, variables and numbers) and ‘Interpretation’ (a function of what one hopes to accomplish). Findings are generalised through objective evidence in order to eliminate bias. Variables are measured and displayed graphically and numerically using tables, graphs, charts and alike. Quantitative approaches are characteristically scientific, therefore controlled, precise, logical and repeatable in the form of mathematical or computational models, methods and techniques. Validity and reliability of results is therefore important here, as Creswell (1994, p. 116) describes.
Different types of quantitative data collection procedures were carried out in this study relating to optical engineering, dyeing chemistry or colour measurement and analysis aspects of the work. Structured laboratory experiments provided an environment for specific tasks such as focused technical, scientific or design experiments centred on thematic documentation, as explained in Table 5. First-hand technical, scientific and creative data was therefore generated. Such data included both statistical and visual information such as data sheets with physical fabric samples, results tables, graphs, diagrams, digital microscopic images and computerized measurements. Procedures carried out using a quantitative approach related to technical, mechanical and scientific aspects of the work associated with laser-processing, textile fibre analysis, coloration chemistry (dyes and dyeing laser modified textiles), industry standard (ISO) colour measurement and analysis and textile performance testing. Each of these areas led to the numerical and graphical representation of different data types. Overall, this work is underpinned by design from the perspective of a textile designer that considered the creative potential of the digital laser-dye process in terms of colour/pattern surface effects and textile/product application opportunities. The procedures undertaken were essentially steered by both creative and validity considerations for textile coloration/patterning and production. In doing so, this approach enabled repeatability of results, controllable parameters, specified designs and knowledge about the functional capabilities of laser-dyed fabrics through ISO textile performance tests carried out.
3.2.3 Defining qualitative research methodology in relation to this study
Qualitative research methods allow the process of ‘data gathering’ to encompass individual thought and expression rather than adhering to a tried and tested scientific framework, as explained by Smith and Dean (2009, p. 4). Creswell (1994, p .145) writes, ‘The qualitative researcher is the primary instrument for data collection and analysis’. In this manner, data is mediated through this ‘human’ instrument, also discussed by Davies (2007, pp. 135-167).
Process and meaning characterise qualitative methods associated with experiential involvement as to know and understand the ‘how’ and ‘why’ of a situation or problem (Schön, 2nd ed., 1991). This approach facilitates first-hand interaction, participation and observation with people, machines and objects, as in this study. Evidence and analysis or procedures undertaken are descriptive, allowing subjectivity, and understanding is attained through words i.e. discussion, interviews, documents and annotated journals for example, along with visual materials such as images and other artefacts rather than statistics, as with quantitative approaches. Inherently, qualitative methods are concerned with value and quality. Therefore, data collection procedures essentially involve collecting information through interaction, observations, interviews, documents and visual materials (further explained by Creswell 1994, p. 148).
In this study qualitative data collection occurred through experiential involvement. First-hand investigation of the DLD laser-dye process encompassed direct interaction with varied disciplines, people, equipment, procedures, methods, techniques and environments – regarding laboratories in industry and academia: which facilitated creative intuition and tacit knowledge in the production of visual results and the process of decision making; formal and informal discussions through project meetings that enabled a verbal exchange of expertise and face-to-face dialogue. This approach was undertaken in order to gain comprehensive practical knowledge, as discussed by Schön, (2nd ed., 1991) and steer developments. Such interaction was also carried out on a collaborative level with project partners, SDC as a prerequisite of the inquiry. Project development was further aided by reflection after doing (ibid). This method took the form of descriptive and discursive dialogue on a collaborative level in team/one-to-one meetings whereby thoughts were verbalised and opinions were exchanged and documented in log books and meeting notes/minutes. Additionally, personal innate questioning, recorded thoughts and written analysis of outcomes (logbooks short reports) also facilitated reflection before/during/after practice in this study. Dorst (2006, p.15) refers to such as ‘pose-search-generate-test’ in attempt to identify varied stages in problem solving.
An emphasis on ‘subjectivity’ attributed to qualitative methods complimented the author of the research’s creative and interpretative background as a textile designer. Individual thought and expression occurred through design and the technical related aspects of the work regarding fabric samples and design development. Intuition and implicit decision-making happened on an immediate level in the process of practical investigation. Schön (1991, 2nd ed., p. 49) writes,
‘our knowing is ordinarily tacit, implicit in our patterns of action and in our feel for the stuff with which we are dealing’. Based on this idea, a pre-existing knowledge of creative elements such as form, scale, colour and composition, aided coloration/patterning development of the digital laser-dye process explored. Similarly, Papanek writes, ‘Design is the conscious and intuitive effort to impose meaningful order’ (1984, 2nd ed., p. 4). Therefore, familiarity with some factors such as a physical understanding of textile materials and CAD techniques for example, also contributed to a ‘spontaneous, intuitive performance’ (Schön 1991, 2nd ed., p. 49).
The qualitative research methods undertaken in this study enabled the data gathering of non-quantitative data types. Specific methods employed (First-hand interaction; Formal and informal meetings; Documented meeting notes; Chronological log books; Thematic documentation of textile samples; Extended design experiments; and a Textile design collection) encompassed individual thought and expression, decision making, intuition and tacit knowledge. As such, these methods were not concerned with numerical approaches, systematic data gathering or statistical analysis. Instead, the qualitative methods investigated in this research facilitated engagement with the project from the human-centered standpoint of the researcher to enable: verbal communications with people; shared knowledge through conversational exchange; mobility within different environments; recorded notes/minutes in written and electronic forms; a reflective approach to analysing technical results for creative purposes; categorisation of textile samples to build an understanding of the DLD process from a design perspective; and design development by identifying specific parameters for further investigation in order to enhance the quality and appearance of specific patterns and surface effects. The scope of the qualitative work carried out is considered appropriate for the DLD investigation presented in this thesis. In terms of the limitations of the qualitative methods employed, for example, it is noted that design analysis of the results such as focus groups comprising other designers to gain further creative insights; semi-structured interviews with production or retail experts regarding the on-demand aspects of the work; or an exhibition of designs – textile samples and garments, in order to harness feedback based on observations of practical elements, does not exist. These approaches are considered relevant beyond the scope of this doctoral study.
3.2.4 Flow of work conducted using mixed methods
Figure 32 demonstrates the flow of work conducted in this research regarding the digital laser-dye process and in relation both qualitative and quantitative methods carried out, as previously described in Table 5. Three digital laser-dye approaches were identified and explored in this study – Fibre-laser (FL) involving the textile and laser only; Fibre-laser-dye (FLD) whereby fabrics were laser treated first then dyed; and Fibre-dye-laser (FDL) which denotes fibres/fabrics were dyed first then laser modified (each approach is further discussed in chapters 4 and 5 of this thesis). This work flow of the laser-dye process (Figure 32) outlines how practical work happened in terms of the sequence in which specific activities occurred corresponding with each of the approaches explored (FL/FLD/FDL).
Figure 32: Flow of work using mixed methods
3.3 Conclusion
In this chapter, the methodology and methods employed in the research are discussed over two distinct sections (Part 1: Methodology: a practice-led approach; and Part 2: Methods). In Part 1, the interdisciplinary and collaborative approach of the study is explained within the context of this research: practice-led design research from a textile design perspective.
Relevant key issues are drawn out of the discussion including: the purpose and value of doing interdisciplinary and collaborative research which facilitated well-rounded knowledge in terms of skill and ability by incorporating creative, scientific, technical and industry aspects. This section aimed to describe how such approach facilitated the acquisition of new knowledge through multi-disciplinary activity and collaborative industry interaction. Explanation is given as to how aspects of the framework relate to one another in order to contextualise the work, and present the research process. Part 2 describes specific research methods assigned to the study related to the methodology and reflects the design research approach as a textile designer. Qualitative and quantitative methods have been discussed and the significance of combining the two approaches (mixed methods) within this research is explained in relation to the interdisciplinary nature of the investigation. A range of methods are identified in the discussion attributed to particular aspects of the study.
The appointment of specific disciplines informed the methodology that aimed to ensure that the research question, aim and objectives were appropriately and adequately explored. The perspective of the researcher has been clearly defined contextualising the approach. Chapters 4 and 5 detail the work conducted and the discussion of results obtained.