42
ANTARCTIC
EXPLORATION.
By
A. Matjlt.(Bead
April 9, 1894.;Antarctic exploration is
no
new
subject for discussion atthe meetings
of theRoyal
Society ofTasmania.
Our
founder
was
the hero of Arctic research,and
our records containpapers
by
another of our distinguished Fellows—
the facileprinceps of Antarctic explorers, Sir
James
Ross
—
ofwhose
expeditions
Hobart
was
the base of operations. In later timesone
of the best records of Antarctic explorationup
to date iscontained in the paper read before us in
1886
by
the lateDeputy
Surveyor-General, Charles Sprent.That
paper is socomplete
a history ofwhat
had
been
done
that I should nothave
again calledyour
attention to the subjectbut
for theadditional information that has lately
been
obtained in connectionwith voyaging
among
iceunder
conditions totallydifferent to those
under which
Ross achieved somuch.
The
information is derivable
from
papers thathave been
recentlyread,
and
discussions thathave
taken
placeupon
them
at themeetings
of theRoyal
Geographical
Societyand
theRoyal
Scottish Geographical Society. I need hardly say that the
new
conditionsunder
which
voyaging
among
ice floesand
bergsis being
done
are those connected with the use of steam.Up
to the present timeno
properlyequipped
and
constructed
steam
vessel has crossed the Antarctic circle.The
Challenger is the onlysteam
vessel that has crossed thecircle ; and, as she
was
not intendedfor service in
high
latitudes, she
was
wholly unprotected for ice work.But
theexperience gained
by
'theDundee
and
Norwegian
steam
whalersduring
the 1892-93 season in theneighbourhood
ofGraham's
Land
and
theSouth
Shetlands, just north of theAntarctic circle,
show
very clearlyunder
how
much
more
favourable conditions Antarctic research can
now
beunder-taken
than
when
Cook
and Weddell
and
Ross
penetratedbeyond
the 70th parallel of south latitude.Here
is Ross's account ofhow
he
had
to encounter astorm
in the ice
on January
19,1842
:—-"At
9 p.m. thewind
suddenly
freshened to a violent galefrom
thenorthward,
compelling us to reduce our sails to a close-reefed maintopsail
and
storm
staysails: the sea quickly rising to a fearful height,breaking
over the loftiest bergs,we
were
unableany
longer tohold our ground,
but
were
driven into theheavy
pack
under
our
lee.Soon
aftermidnight
our ships were involved inan
ocean of rollingfragments
of ice,hard
as floating rocks ofgranite,
which
were
dashed
againstthem
by
thewaves
with
43
fall at every successive
blow
;and
the destruction of the shipsseemed
inevitablefrom
thetremendous
shocks they received.By
backing
and
filling the sails,we
endeavoured
to avoidcollision with the larger masses,
but
thiswas
notalways
possible ; in the early part of the
storm
therudder
of theMrebus
was
somuch
damaged
as to beno
longer ofany
use;
and
about
thesame
time
I -wasinformed
by
signal that theTerror's
was
completely destroyed,and
nearly tornaway from
the stern post.
We
had hoped
that, aswe
drifted deeper intothe pack,
we
should getbeyond
the reach of thetempest
;
but
in thiswe
were
mistaken.Hour
passedaway
afterhour
without
the least mitigation of theawful
circumstances inwhich
we
were
placed. Indeed, thereseemed
to be but littleprobability of our ships holding together
much
longer, sofrequent
and
violentwere
the shocks they sustained; the loud
crashing noise of the straining
and
working
of the timbersand
decks, as shewas
driven againstsome
of the heavierpieces,
which
all the activityand
exertions of our peoplecould not prevent,
was
sufficient to fill withdismay
thestoutest heart that
was
not supportedby
trust inHim
who
controls all events;
and
I shouldcommit
an
act of injusticeto
my
companions
if I did not expressmy
admiration of
then-conduct
on
this trying occasion ;throughout
a period of28
hours,
during
any
one
ofwhich
thereappeared
tobe
verylittle
hope
thatwe
should live to see another, the coolness,steady obedience,
and
untiring exertions of each individualwere
everyway
worthy
of Britishseamen.
The
storm
gained
its height at 2 p.m.
when
thebarometer
stood at 23-40 inches,and
after that timebegan
to rise.Although
we
had
been
forced
many
miles deeper into the pack,we
could not perceive that the swellhad
at all subsided, our ships still rollingand
groaning
amidst
theheavy
fragments
of crushing bergs, overwhich
the ocean rolled itsmountainous
waves,throwing
huge
masses
one
upon
another,and
then againburying
them
deep
beneath
itsfoaming
waters,dashing
and
grindingthem
together with fearful violence.
The
awfulgrandeur
ofsuch
a
scenecan
be
neitherimagined
nor described, far lesscan
the feelings of thosewho
witnessed itbe
understood.Each
of us secured our hold, waiting the issue with resignation tothe will of
Him
who
alone could preserve usand
bring ussafely
through
thisextreme
danger
;
watching
with
breathlessanxiety the effect of each succeeding collision,
and
thevibrations of the tottering masts, expecting every
moment
tosee
them
give way,without
ourhaving
thepower
tomake
an
effort to save
them."
Compare
with this the following extractsfrom
apaper read
at theRoyal
ScottishGeographical
Society'smeeting
atEdinburgh,
inJanuary
of this year,by
Mr"
W.
S. Bruce,Naturalist to the steamship Balcsna
during
the expedition of44
1892-3 :
—
"Like
our predecessors,we
found
it tobe
a regionof gales
and
calms
—
galesfrom
the north, withwet
fog ;gales
from
the south, with blindingsnow
; calmswith
fog,and
calms
with
brilliant sunshine."Then,
after givinga
glowing
description of a beautifulChristmas
eve,he
proceeds
:—
-" This is the picture of acalm
midnight
inmidsummer,
different, indeed,from
theheavy
weather
we
experienced at other times,
when
fordays
we
shelteredbehind
bergsand
streams ofpack
during
black nights thickwith
fogand
snow.One
of the galeswe
encountered
the skipperdescribed as the hardest that ever
blew
in the Arcticand
Antarctic ; and, indeed, it
was
stiff.
For
tenhours
we
steamed
as
hard
aswe
could against it,and
at theend
had
made
onlyone
knot. Picture to yourselves a sailing vessel :What
a
different
agency
we
have
now
!Where
Cook, Eoss,Weddell,
and
otherswould
have been
in the greatest peril,we
with
steam were
comparatively safe."And
Dr.Donald,
of thesame
expedition, after referring toRoss's experiences of
storms
in the stout oldErebus
and
Terror, speaks in terms similar to those of
Mr. Bruce
as tothe
changed
conditionsdue
to steam.But
it is not only with regard to safety in storms thatthe
use of
steam
has altered the conditionsunder which
Antarctic explorationcan be undertaken,
it is a yetmore
important
factor in connection with the
power
it gives to takeadvantage
of opportunities
and
to contend with circumstances.Polar
navigation,and
especially Antarctic navigation, is the subjectof what, until
we
know
more
of the laws thatgovern
seasonsand
climaticand
other conditions that affect it,we
must
callluck or
good
fortune.For
instance, in1823
Weddell found
a
clear seawhich
enabled
him
topush
his little cutter to the 75th deg. of south latitude, four degrees fartherthan
the limit fixedby
Cook
when
he
said, " I canbe
boldenough
tosay
that
no
man
will ever venture fartherthan
Ihave
done."And
yetwhen
Boss
with his wellfound
ships tried to surpassWeddell,
he
couldon
thesame
longitude get only to the65th
parallel.
And
again
in1841
Boss
entered themain
pack
south of
Campbell
Island at the 67th parallel of latitudeand
got
through
it in four days.The
next yearhe
encountered
the
pack
in 61 deg. 15 min.,and
it tookhim
forty-four clays toget
through
it.Now
amidst
all this uncertainty as tothe
conditions in
which
the polar ocean will befound
therecan be
no
doubt
Boss
did all that a skilfuland
daringseaman
coulddo with
themeans
at hiscommand,
and
it isbeyond
allpraise that he did so
much.
But
what
ifhe
had had
steam
power?
During
all that terrible gale in thepack
he
sowonderfully
describes in the extract Ihave
given, theS.S.W.
45
year,
and
held his own, thepack
would
have
soon drifted pasthim.
At
the discussionon
Dr.Murray's
paper
on
Antarctic exploration read at theBoyal
Geographical Society'smeeting
on
the27th
November
last, Sir E.Vesey
Hamilton
said thatwith
asteamer
Boss's forty -four days" in thepack
would
probably
have been reduced
to four."And
he
went
on:—
"I
believe
now
that theamount
ofwork
thatwas
done
by
SirJames
Eoss
in three seasons could bedone
in one seasonwith
modern
steam
power,and
Ihave
some
knowledge
of ice navigation,having
been three wintersand
fivesummers
in the Arctic regions.Now
the greatestenemy
to a sailing shipis a gale in the ice heavily packed, as
we
have
seenfrom
the
diagrams
;then
the ships are in great peril,perhaps
forsteam
as well as sailing ships;but
after the galecomes
a
calm,when
the iceopens
outand
thesteamer
would
im-mediately
make
rapid progress, while the sailing shipmight
be
unable tomove
forsome
days."And
it is not only in cases like thesementioned
by
SirVesey
Hamilton,
that sailing ships are at a disadvantage.The
readers of Sir
James
Boss'saccount
of hisvoyages
willcome
over
and
over again to passages describinghow
calmsand
contrarywinds
or currents baffled the great navigator atmost
critical timeswhen
a coastlinehad
to be leftunexplored
or an
opening
in the ice left unentered.Had
itbeen
possibleto
have
taken
advantage
of these lost opportunities,
how-much
might
thebounds
of ourknowledge
of Antarctic regionsbeen
enlarged.I
have
shown
on
theaccompanying
chart what,with
regard
to certain subjects, are the"bounds
of our presentknowledge
of those regions. It is basedon
information givenin Dr.
Murray's
charts—
our
greatest authorityon
the subjects referred to.As
regards the conformation of the coasts of Antarctic land or lands,what
isknown
is distinguish-ablefrom what
is hypotheticalby
difference ofshading;
and
sources of theknowledge
areshown
by
the tracks of allnavigators
known
tohave
crossed the Antarctic Circle.Their
voyages
are wellsummarised
inMr.
Sprent'spaper
recorded10. our transactions.
The
chart alsoshows
thebathymetric
curves,
and
thesummer
temperature
curves of thecircum-polar ocean
and
air—
important
factors in relation to Antarcticexploration.
With
respect towhat
has alreadybeen
done
in Antarctic regionsby
far themost
important performances were
thoseof
Weddell
in 1823,and
ofEoss
in1841
and
1842.Weddell's
track,
between
30 deg.and
40
deg. of west longitude, traversesthe
deep
basin of theSouth
Atlantic,and
he
did not getmuch
beyond
the 2,000fathom
curve.The
relativelywarm
water
that exists in the deeper parts of the Antarcticocean
43
James
Ross
describes theupthrow
of thiswarm
layer ofwater
causedby
the southerlysubmarine
currentfrom
the tropicsmeeting
the gradual rise of the seabottom
as itapproaches land.
And
Dr.Murray,
in thepaper
alreadyreferred to, says that " these
deep
layers of relativelywarm
water
appear
likewise tobe
slowlydrawn
southwards
to theAntarctic a»-ea, to supply the place of the ice-cold currents of
surface
water
drifted to the north. Thiswarm
underlying
water
is evidently a potent factor in the meltingand
destruction of the
huge
table-topped icebergs of theSouthern
Hemisphere."
The
differencebetween
thetemperature
of the surfaceand
underlyingwater
in thedeep
basin crossedby Weddell
isshown
by
Boss'ssounding
in itwhen
he reached
no
bottom
with
a 4,000fathom
line,and
when
with
a surfacetemperature
of the water of 30'8 deg. hefound
a
temperature
of395
deg. at 1,050fathoms
—
the greatestdepth
towhich
he
could trust his self-registeringthermo-meters.
Eoss's tracks within the Antarctic Circle in
1842 and
1843,.between
170
deg. eastand
160
deg.west
longitude,took
him
acrossno
suchdeep
basin, for thesoundings
variedfrom
about
1,600fathoms on
the Circle to150
ashe
approached
land.
But
the influence of thewarm
underlying currentfrom
thenorth
was
always
noticeable, thetemperature
of 39-8 deg. being repeatedlyfound
at600
fathoms
with a,surface
temperature
below
freezing point ;and
at his farthestsouth,
with soundings
of only250
fathoms, the shoalinghad
brought
thewarmer
water to the surfacewhere
itstemper-ature
was
32 deg. with amean
airtemperature
of27
deg.The
temperature
of the sea at thebottom
was
33'2 deg.In
a conversation Ihad
the otherday
withCaptain
Pascoe,he
incidentallymentioned
another factor thatmay
have
much
influence inkeeping
an
open
sea in theneighbourhood
ofEoss's tracks in
1841
and
1842.These
tracks pass alongwhat
isprobably
themain
line of the earth's volcanicand
seismic action in the southern
hemisphere
—
-the linemarked
by
theNew
Zealand
volcanoesand
Mount
Erebus.Earth
tremors
would
certainlydo
much
to helpforward
the action of the wateron
the great ice barrier thatguards
the coastof Victoria
Land.
It
must
always
beborne
inmind
that ourknowledge
ofArctic regions enables us to predicate very little in connection
with
Antarctic.The
circumstances of thetwo
poles—
and
especially the meteorological circumstances
—
are so entirely,and, at present, so unaccountably, different, that reasoning
from
Arctic data is almost inevitably misleadingwith
relation to Antarctic facts
and
conditions. All navigatorswho
have
been
inboth
are continually recordinghow
unlikemeteor-47
above
14
deg.; this alsowhen
compared
©logical conditions are, with, our present knowledge, quite
unaccountable.
For
instance,why
should the barometricpressure be so
much
less in the souththan
in the north ?There
is probably halfan
inch ofmercury
of difference.The
effects of this are very evident in the southern zone ofsouth-westerly
winds
with rainand
snow
allround
the globe,but
what
is the cause ? Again,we
have
all read of the shortbut
for thetime
genialsummer
of the Arctic regions—
why
is there
none
in the Antarctic ? Eoss,when
close to thegreat Victoria land ice barrier writes :
—
" Gigantic iciclesdepended
from
every projecting point of its perpendicularcliffs, proving that it
sometimes
thaws,which
otherwisewe
could not
have
believed ; for at a season of the year,eqvivalent to
August
inEngland,
we
had
thethermometer
at 12 deg.,
and
atnoon
not risingseverity of
temperature
isremarkable
with
our
former
experience in the northern seas,where
from
every
icebergyou meet
with
streams of water are constantlypouring
offduring
summer.
Another
remarkable
phenomenon
connectedwith
what
should
be the Antarcticsummer
is the very smallrange
ofthe
temperature both
diurnaland
seasonal.In
Boss'sbook
the abstract meteorological journals given
show
for January,1841, a
maximum
dailyrange
of 12 deg.Pah.
and
aminimum
one
of 1 deg.;and
forFebruary,
1841, amaximum
dailyrange
of 10'5 deg.and
aminimum
of15
deg.And
last yearMr. Bruce
had
similar experience in the Balaena.He
says in thepaper
from
which
Ihave
alreadyquoted
:—
"The
records of air
temperature
are veryremarkable
; our lowesttemperature
was
20'8 deg. Fab.,our
highest 37'6 deg.—
only a difference of168
deg. in the totalrauge
for a periodextending
slightly overtwo
months.
Compare
thiswith our
climate,
wherein
a singleday
and
nightyou
may
geta
variation of
more
than
ttvice thatamount.
. . .The
average temperatures
show
a stillmore
remarkable
uniformity.December
averaged
31T4
deg. for115
readings; January,3
T
10 deg. for198
readings;February,
2965
deg. for116
readings
—
arange
of lessthan
1-J- deg. Fah,
From
theserecords of
temperature
Mr.
Bruce
and
Dr.Murray
and
other authorities think it very probable that there is a comparativelysmall
range
oftemperature
all the yearround
in Antarcticregions,
and
that the cold of winterwould
not be so terribleas is
imagined
by
some.The
result of the greatamount
of precipitation takingplace in the zone of
low
pressureand
in asummerless
climate,is that the
whole
coastline of land within the AntarcticCircle is covered
with
an
icecap ofenormous
thickness.But
from
observations of the prevailingwinds
in the south polar48
pressure
and
itsaccompanying
great precipitation doesnot
extend
to the pole. Dr.Murray,
in thepaper
we
have
already
quoted
from, says:—
" It is probable thatabout
74
deg. S., the belt of excessive precipitation has
been
passed,and
it is even conceivable tbat at the pole precipitationmight
be
very little in excess of, or indeed, not
more
than
equal to,the evaporation." It is, therefore, very likely that instead of
the thickness of the
snow
or icecapon
the Antarctic landsbeing
10 or20
miles as estimatedby
the lateMr.
Croll, Dr.Murray's
estimate of 1,800 feet as themaximum
is nearer thetruth, as this estimate slightly exceeds the calculated
thick-ness of the greatest southern bergs
and
floating ice islands.In
consequence
of this all - prevailingmantle
of frozensnow, "
no
landanimal
and
no
trace of vegetation--not even
a
lichen or a piece ofseaweed
—
has
been
found
on
land
within the Antarctic Circle."
The
whalers last yearbrought
back
some
fossils,probably
from
tertiary rocks, that"distinctly indicate the existence of
more
genial conditionswithin
the Antarctic in past geological times."But
as Dr.Murray
says:—
"When
we
turn to the waters of the Antarctic oceanwe
find at the presenttime
a great profusion of life,both
animal
and
vegetable.During
theChallenger expedition
myriads
ofminute
spherical tetrasporsawere
observed to give the sea a peculiar green colour overlarge areas.
Diatoms
were
frequently insuch
enormous
abundance
that thetow
nets were filled to thebrim
with
a
yellow-brown
slimy mass, witha
distressing odour,through
which
various crustaceans, annelids,and
otheranimals
wriggled. . . . Occasionally vast quantities of copepods,
amphipods,
etc.,were
observed to give the ocean a dull redcolour
These
small crustaceans are in turn thechief food of the fishes, penguins, seals,
and
whaleswhich
abound
in the waters of the greatSouthern
Ocean."
How
abundant
and
varied theanimal
life of this part of theocean is
may
bo
judged
from
the fact that Dr.Murray
mentions
that the Challenger trawland
dredge
obtainedfrom
waters lying farther south
than
Tasmania
326
new
species,and
119
new
generafrom
depths varyingfrom
1,260 to 2,600fathoms,
and
that one-half of thenew
speciesand
a quarterof the
new
genera
were
not obtained elsewhere.Now
what
is to bedone
in thematter
of Antarcticexploration ? Dr.
Murray
answers:—
"
A
dash
at theSouth
Pole
"—
(like thatwhich
Nansen
ismaking
at theNorth)
—
" isnot
what
Inow
advocate,nor
do
I believe that iswhat
Britishscience at the present time desires. It
demands
rathera
steady, continuous, laborious,
and
systematic exploration of thewhole
southern region,with
all the appliances of themodern
investigator. This exploration
should
beundertaken
by
the49
seems
tome,
be
fitted out for awhole
commission, so as toextend over three
summers
and
two
winters. Early in thefirst season a wintering party of
about
tenmen
shouldbe
landed
somewhere
to the south ofCape
Horn,
probablyabout
Bismarck
Strait, at G-raham'sLand.
The
expeditionshould
then
proceed to VictoriaLand, where
a second similar partyshould
winter, probably inMacmurdo
Bay,
nearMount
Erebus.The
ships should notbecome
frozen in,nor attempt
to winter in the far south,
but
should
returntowards
the north, conducting observations of various kinds along the outermargins
of the ice. After the needful restand
outfitat the Falklands, or Australia, the position of the ice
and
thetemperature
of theocean
shouldbe
observed in the earlyspring,
and
later the wintering partiesshould
be
com-municated
with, and, if necessary, reinforcedwith
men
and
supplies for another winter.
During
thesecond
winter thedeep-sea observations
should
be
continued
northwards,and
in the third sea son the wintering parties
should
be
pickedup
and
the expedition return toEngland.
The
wintering partiesmight
largelybe
composed
of civilians,and
one ortwo
civilians
might
be
attached to each ship ; this planworked
admirably
during
the Challenger expedition.In
the discussionwhich
followed the reading of Dr.Murray's
paper,and
inwhich
SirJoseph Hooker,
theDuke
of Argyll, Sir
George
Nares, Sir B.Vesey
Hamilton,
Captain
Wharton,
Lord
Charles Beresford, SirWm,
Flower,and
others took part, general
agreement
was
expressed withDr.
Murray's
plan ofcampaign,
and
much
enthusiasm
was
shown.
If
any
doubts
were
expressedabout
thecommercial
utility ofsuch an
expedition,none
were
possible as to the pricelessadvantages
thatwould
accrue to sciencefrom
it. Itspopularity
would
beimmense
both
in theNavy
and
in thescientific world,
and
the difficulty ofmanning
the expeditionwould
only be theembarrassment
of choice.At
theBoyal
ScottishGeographical
Society'smeeting
inJanuary, after papers
by
Mr. Bruce
and
Dr.Donald
on
thescientific results of last year's
whaling
trips to theSouth
Shetlands,
a
resolutionwas
passed
to send amemorial
toGovernment
in favour of a national expedition.I
have
purposely avoided sayinganything
directly bearingon
thecommercial
aspect of the question as to thedesira-bility of sending such an expedition, because I think that is
not
our business.Commerce
canand
ought
to take care ofitself.
And
ifwe
as a nation only sent out expeditionswhere
we
were
surebeforehand
of successfrom
acommercial
point of view,no
interestwould
have
suffered somuch
as thecommercial
interest of theEmpire.
Thorough
scientificexploration has usually
been
followed as a naturalconsequence
50
interests are so
important
as to fully justify their beingregarded
as of such national concern as to require a specialexpedition.
The
Erebus
and
Terrorwere
fitted out virtuallyonly to obtain information with
regard
to terrestrialmag-netism
—
that science isnow
asmuch
inneed
of furtherinformation as it
was
then.And
all the other sciences Ihave
incidentally
mentioned
are equally interested.And
with
reference to all these sciences, in addition to our general
interest,
we
have
inTasmania
a particularone
especially inconnection with terrestrial
magnetism,
forwe
couldprobably
offer the nearest site to the southmagnetic
pole for aper-manent
magnetic
observatory. Ihope
that in connectionwith
the revived interest in Antarctic research,and
perhaps
in connection
with
theLeake
astronomical bequestand
our
University, suchan
observatorymay
be re-established inHobart
as thatwhich
didsuch
good
work
under
Koss
and
his successors.In
conclusion, Imay
claim to be consistent with regard tomy
opinion that thiswork
should
bedone
by
theEoyal
Navy.
A
year ortwo
ago
Ihad
thehonour
to standand
vote alone in this
room
in opposition to aproposed subvention
from
the Australian colonies to aidBaron
Nordenskjold'sprojected Antarctic expedition,
on
theground
that itwas
ai
national
matter
and
shouldbe
undertaken
by
theRoval
Navy.
I think so still ;but
as I then explained I includedin the
Eoyal
Navy
the Australian contingent,and
Ihope
that if