Paris For Dummies

Chapter 1

Discovering the

Best of Paris

In This Chapter

䊳Paris’s best sights

䊳Paris’s best accommodations for every price range

䊳Food, glorious food, the best bars, a shopping nirvana, and the best culture, parks, and gardens

T

high. Airlines are charging for checked baggage. Planning a trip any-where during these times may seem like an unaffordable luxury, and to Paris of all places — well, you may be hearing from all fronts how expen-sive it is. I’m here to tell you that, though prices are higher than they are at home, you don’t have to break the bank to visit. Paris For Dummiesis designed to give you an overview of all types of hotels, restaurants, and shopping in all price ranges. But I include tips, too, on how to save — and let you know when spending more is justified.

So, go ahead and visit one of the world’s most beautiful and celebrated cities with what could be one of the best attractions of all — a way of life in which relaxing in a cafe and watching the world go by are natural parts of the day. Where you can, build into your itinerary time to linger and get lost — getting lost, after all, costs nothing. Discovering a tiny shop instead of a subway station or a pretty park around a bend can be more fun than a planned trip to a famous monument. And as for those

famous monuments and museums: Yes, you’ll discover that the Louvre

is as incredible as its reputation, but did you know that the Musée du

quai Branlyhas opened up near the Eiffel Tower and displays some of

the Louvre’s former treasures? And what a great time to visit — the

Orangerie,closed for nearly a decade, has reopened, and Monet’s Water

Lilieshere are spectacular! You’ll find that taking a motorboat tour of

the Seineis one of the best ways to see Paris, but why not rent a

row-boat in the Bois de Boulogneand the Bois de Vincennes,two big, beau-tiful parks on each side of Paris that are a haven from the city’s bustle? Whatever you do, you’ll quickly discover that Paris (see map “Paris at a Glance”) is more of an experience than merely a city, and each visitor experiences it in an entirely individual way.

Paris at a Glance

Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie BOIS DE BOULOGNE BOIS DE BOULOGNE CIMETIÈRE DU MONTPARNASSE CIMETIÈRE DU MONTPARNASSE PARC MONCEAU PARC MONCEAU JARDIN DU LUXEM-BOURG PARC DE MONTSOURIS CIMETIÈRE DU PÈRE-LACHAISE JARDIN DES PLANTES BOIS DE VINCENNES JARDIN

DES TUILERIESJARDIN DES TUILERIES Can al S t-M arti n ru e du Faub our g St -Mar tin Seine Ile de la Cité Ile St-Louis pl. de la Concorde pl. de la Concorde PORTE DE ST-OUEN PORTE DE CLICHY PORTE D'ASNIÈRES PORTE CHAMPERRET PORTE MAILLOTPORTE MAILLOT PORTE DAUPHINE PORTE DE LA MUETTE PORTE DE PASSY PORTE DAUPHINE PORTE DE LA MUETTE PORTE DE PASSY PORTE D'AUTEUIL PORTE DE ST-CLOUD PORTE PORTE DE SÈVRES DE SÈVRESPORTE DE SÈVRES PORTE D'ORLÉANS PORTE DORÉE PORTE D'AUBERVILLIERS PORTE DE LA CHAPELLE PARC DE BUTTES-CHAUMONT CIMETIÈRE DE MONTMARTRE CIMETIÈRE DE MONTMARTRE av. Charles de Gaulle

Pt. d_e Neuilly Pt. de Neuilly av. de la Grande Armée av. Foch av. V ictor Hugo bd. Murat av. Kléber bd. Galliéni av. Félix Faur e rue de la Conventionav. Emile Zola

bd. de Gr enelle av . de Suf fren rue Lecourbe rue de V augirar d rue de V augirar d rue d'Alésia bd. Brune bd. Jour dan a v. d u M a in_e av . du Maine av. d u G l. Le cler c av. du Gl. Lecler c av . d es _G o b elin s bd. de l' H ôp ital qu ai _de la _G are qu ai _de B ercy bd . d e l_a V ille tte bd. de Rochecho uart bd. de Clichybd. de Clichy ru e d 'A m ste rd am av. de St-Ouen av . de Clichy bd. Berthier av. de V illiers av. de Wag ram av. de W agram

av. des Champs-Elysées

bd. Haussm_ann rue d'Amster dam bd. Haussmann av . George V av . F .D . Roosevelt quai d'Orsay av . de la Bour donnais av . de Br eteuil bd. Raspail bd. Raspail bd. du Montpar nasse rue de Rivoli av . M ar_ce a_u av. de Friedland bd. des Bat ignolles bd. de Co urcelles av.du P res. Wilson bd. V_icto r rue de V augi rard bd. V_icto r av. rue d_{e Faubourg S} t-Antoine bd . S t-G erm ain bd . S t-G erm ain bd. B essièr es bd . E xelm ans av. L edru -Rol lin BASTILLE av. du Gén éral Sar rail av. du Gén éral Sar rail av . du Pres . Ken nedy rue d e Sèv res bd. L efeb_vre PORTE DE VANVES bd. A uriol bd . d e M én ilm o_n ta_n t

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More Fun Things to Do in Paris; Paris Shopping

Light Bites in Montmartre Hotels in the Heart of the Right Bank; Restaurants on the Right Bank; Light Bites in the Heart of the Right Bank Hotels in the Heart of the Left Bank; Restaurants on the Left Bank; Light Bites in the Heart of the Left Bank Père-Lachaise Cemetery

Paris Map Key

C D B E A C D Railway rue de V augi rard rue Renan

St-Denis St-Ouen A6A A6A (To Orly) (To Orly) A6A (To Orly) To Roissy/Charles-de-Gaulle Airport MONTPARNASSE LATIN QUARTER Ivry-Sur-Seine Ivry-Sur-Seine Charenton MÉNILMONTANT BELLEVILLE MARAIS MONTMARTRE BOURSE Aubervilliers Aubervilliers LA VILLETTE Le Pré St-Gervais Arc de Triomphe La Madeleine Opéra Garnier Petit Palais Grand Palais Musée d'Orsay Sacré-Cœur Gare du Nord Gare de l'Est Gare du Nord Gare de l'Est Louvre Louvre Louvree Hôtel de Ville Hôtel de Ville Opéra BastilleOpéra Bastille Centre Pompidou Sainte-Chapelle Centre Pompidou Les Halles Notre-Dame Notre-Dame Sorbonne Sorbonne Panthéon Gare d'Austerlitz Gare d'Austerlitz Gare de Lyon Bibliothèque National de France Bibliothèque National de France Cité Universitaire pl. d'Italie pl. d'Italie Parc ZoologiqueParc Zoologique pl. Félix Eboué pl. de la Nation pl. de la Bastille pl. des Vosges pl. de la République pl. de la Bastille pl. des Vosges pl. de la République Sainte-Chapelle PORTE D'AUBERVILLIERS PORTE DE LA CHAPELLE

Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie BOIS DE BOULOGNE CIMETIÈRE DU MONTPARNASSE PARC MONCEAU JARDIN DU LUXEM-BOURG JARDIN DU LUXEM-BOURG PARC DE MONTSOURIS PARC DE MONTSOURIS CIMETIÈRE DU PÈRE-LACHAISE JARDIN DES PLANTES CIMETIÈRE DU PÈRE-LACHAISE BOIS DE VINCENNES BOIS DE VINCENNESBOIS DE VINCENNES JARDIN DES TUILERIES JARDIN DES PLANTES _Seine Bassin de la Villette Can al S t-M arti n ru e du Faub our g St -Mar tin rue du Fa ubo urg St-M artin Canal S t-M artin Canal de l'Ourcq Ile de la Cité Ile St-Louis pl. de la Concorde Ile de la Cité Ile St-Louis PORTE MAILLOT PORTE DAUPHINE PORTE DE LA MUETTE PORTE DE PASSY PORTE DE SÈVRES PORTE D'ITALIE PORTE DE GENTILLY PORTE D'IVRY PORTE DE BERCY PORTE DE CHARENTON PORTE DORÉE PORTE DORÉE PORTE DE ST-MANDÉ PORTE DE VINCENNES PORTE DE MONTREUIL PORTE DE BAGNOLET PORTE DES LILAS PORTE DE PANTIN PORTE DE LA VILLETTE PORTE D'AUBERVILLIERS PORTE DE

LA CHAPELLED'AUBERVILLIERSPORTE PORTE DE LA CHAPELLE PORTE DE CLIGNANCOURT PARC DE BUTTES-CHAUMONT PARC DE BUTTES-CHAUMONT CIMETIÈRE DE MONTMARTRE Pt. d_e Neuilly a v. d u M a in_e av. d u G l. Le cler c rue d'Alésia bd. Arago av . d es _G o b elin s bd. de l' H ôp ital av . des Gobelins bd. Blanqui bd. de l' Hôpital av . d'Italie av . de Choisy av . d'Ivry bd. Masséna qu ai _de la _G are qu ai _de B ercy quai de la Gar e quai de Ber cy bd. de Ber cy bd. Diderot av . Daumesnil Cours de V_incennes bd. R. Lenoir bd. V oltair e bd. V oltair e av. de la République av . Philippe Auguste bd . d e l_a V ille tte bd. de la V_illette

rue du Faubourgdu Temple

bd. de Magenta

rue de Flandr e

av. Jean Jaurès

bd. Macdonald rue Riquet rue de la Chapelle bd. Ney bd. Or nano bd. Barbés bd. de Rochecho uart bd. de Rochechouart bd. de Clichy rue La Fayette ru e d 'A m ste rd am av. de Wag ram bd. Haussm_ann bd. St-Michel bd. St-Mar cel rue de Rivoli rue de T urbigo rue R_am but_eau bd. de Sébastopol bd. V_icto r rue de V augi rard bd. Kellerman bd. de Belleville rue d_{e Faubourg S} t-Antooinnee rue d_{e Faubourg S} t-Antoine bd . S t-G erm ain quai du L_ouvre b d . B_ea u m a rc_h a is p lac e M ar x D or m oy av. L edru -Rol lin av. L edru -Rol lin BASTILLE BASTILLE av. du Gén éral Sar rail bd. de la Chapelle bd. A uriol bd. A uriol bd . d_e M én ilm o_n ta_n t bd . d_e M én ilm o_n ta n t

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This chapter is designed as an at-a-glance reference to the absolute best — the best of the best in my opinion — that Paris has to offer. Each of these experiences and places is discussed in detail later in the book; you can find them in their indicated chapter, marked with a Best of the Best icon.

The Best Accommodations

With more than 2,200 chain hotels, deluxe palacelike accommodations, hotels that cater to business travelers, budget hotels, and mom-and-pop establishments, it’s difficult to narrow things down to just a few. But the hotels here are the hotels that, in my opinion, you’ll want to return to on your next visit (because no one can see Paris just once!). I only list hotels in the first eight arrondissements, the most central locations in Paris. See Chapter 9 for more information on the accommodations listed here.

⻬I love the Hôtel de l’Abbaye Saint-Germain(6e), a former convent

on the Left Bank that is simply charming, with five-star service and beautiful tranquil surroundings. Rooftop suites and some first-floor rooms open onto vine-covered terraces, and the fabulous duplex apartment is terrific for honeymooners.

⻬In a city where accommodations range from the ultra-luxurious to the barely inhabitable, Hôtel Verneuil(7e) offers the elegance of a small boutique hotel at a reasonable price located just a short walk from St-Germain-des-Prés, the Louvre, the Musée D’Orsay, and the Seine.

⻬The impressive, airy Hôtel du Jeu de Paumeon the exclusive Ile

St-Louis was once a 17th century jeu de paume(the precursor to tennis) court, and you can still see the wooden skeleton rising from the open lobby. This is one of Paris’s more unusual hotels, success-fully combining sumptuous ancient and modern décor, and guests have their choice of staying in rooms or, for more than five days, private apartments. It’s located right down the street from Notre-Dame and Left and Right Bank bridges.

The Best Food

No matter where you decide to dine or what kind of food you choose, you can count on having some of the most memorable meals of your life in Paris! The following list contains some of my favorite restaurants (the information in parentheses indicates the arrondissement in which each establishment is located). See Chapter 10 for more information on the restaurants listed here.

⻬Le Cinq (8e):Ah, to be able to dine here daily! This

multi-Michelin-starred restaurant in the Four Seasons George V is truly extraordi-nary, from exquisite pull-out-all-the-stops food to its award winning sommelier and fantastic wine cellar. If you want a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience, you won’t be disappointed.

⻬Le 404 (3e):You may join staff and patrons dancing on the bar at the end of your dinner at this hip and fun Moroccan restaurant not far from the heart of the Marais. You’ll be talking to your neighbors over tasty tajines,couscous, and pastillaand toasting to new friend-ships with a crisp regional wine.

⻬Le Potager du Marais (3e):Vegetarians, rejoice! This tiny

restau-rant near the Centre Pompidou serves delicious French and other standards that happen to be meatless (there are also some options for vegans). Diners sit at a long communal table and the place is always packed (reservations for dinner are strongly suggested); there’s such a friendly vibe, you almost won’t be able to help talk-ing to others around you.

The Best Sights

What’s a visit to Paris without seeing the view from the Eiffel Tower (even though there are other great views that incorporate the famous landmark)? For most people, the real reason for visiting Paris is to see the quintes-sentially French attractions for which the city is known. Are the sights really as great as returning travelers say? Mais oui!Here are just a few of the best. See Chapter 11 for more information on the sights listed here.

⻬You can’t miss the city’s most famous landmark, the Eiffel Tower, which graces the city skyline with its lacy presence. At night for ten minutes each hour until it closes, the tower bursts into glittering light from 30,000 bulbs. Mail your postcards and letters from the tower’s very own post office located the first level up; they’ll get a special Tour Eiffel postmark.

⻬Take a tour boat down the Seineat night and see lights from bridges older than the United States cast reflections in the water. English-language commentary is included. (Even better: Take one of Fat Tire Bike’s night bike tours around the city. Included in the price is a Seine boat ride.)

⻬The Musée d’Orsay,a former train station, has an unsurpassed

col-lection of Impressionist masterpieces and beautiful displays of Art Nouveau furnishings. Much less overwhelming than the Louvre and well-located near the Seine and Eiffel Tower, this museum should make everyone’s top five!

⻬Your first glimpse of the nearly 900-year-old Cathédral de

Notre-Damejust may take your breath away. Flying buttresses lend a

graceful air to what would otherwise be an imposing structure. Play Quasimodo and climb to the top of the bell tower (get there early — the lines grow huge from late morning through closing, especially in summer) or marvel at the gorgeous rose windows.

⻬The Arc de Triomphewas commissioned by Napoléon to honor his

army and its 128 victorious battles, but the real reason people visit is for the view — one that takes in the Eiffel Tower. From the top,

49m (162 ft.) up, you can see in a straight line the Champs-Elysées, the obelisk in the place de la Concorde, the Louvre, and the Grande Arche de la Défense in St-Denis, a giant open cube built to be the modern equivalent to this arch.

⻬The Musée Picassoconstantly rotates its exhibits that represent

every phase of Picasso’s prolific 75-year career. All of it is housed in a beautiful 17th-century mansion deep in the Marais, one of Paris’s best and most interesting neighborhoods.

⻬The Musée Nationale d’Auguste Rodinis one of Paris’s more

relax-ing museums. There are only 16 medium-sized rooms here, and after taking in the sensual sculptures, you can stroll through the gardens here to see more of the legendary artist’s masterpieces such as The Thinkerand The Gates of Hell.

⻬The Musée de Clunyis one of the jewels of Paris museums and is

home to the famous tapestry series The Lady and the Unicorn.It houses ancient Roman hot and cold baths, the original statues pulled off Notre-Dame in 1790 by furious revolutionaries, and so, so much more, as well as a terrific gift shop to boot.

The Best Parks and Gardens

Paris has parks for every taste and interest offering flowers, rare plants, and views of the city and puppet shows, pony rides, and museums. Here are some of its best. Chapter 11 has more information.

⻬The Jardin des Tuileries(1er) is Paris’s most visited park, where

visitors to the Louvre next door like to revive in the fresh air and rest their feet on conveniently placed wrought-iron chairs surround-ing the garden’s fountains. In keepsurround-ing with the French style of parks, trees are planted according to an orderly design and the sandy paths are arrow straight. During the summer, a carnival features an enormous Ferris wheel (with great views of the city) and some other thrill rides, a fun house, arcade-style games, and snacks.

⻬The Jardin du Luxembourgin the Latin Quarter is Parisians’

most beloved park. Children love it for its playground, pony rides, puppet theater, and the Fontaine de Médicis where they can sail toy boats. Make use of the tennis and boulescourts (boulesis a French game similar to lawn bowling or the Italian bocce in which players try to be the first to roll their balls closest to the small object ball called the cochonnet), or appreciate the art exhibited on the wrought-iron fence at the garden’s northwestern entrance near boulevard St-Michel and rue de Médicis. Courses are offered here in bee keeping, and the park’s orchard grows apples and pears that end up on the plates of staff at the French Senate, which is housed in the garden’s Palais du Luxembourg.

⻬Parc de la Villette(19e) is a modern park with a series of theme

steam and water jets. Scattered throughout are playgrounds and other attractions — this is a must-visit if you’ve spent time at the huge children’s science complex, Cité des Sciences et l’Industrie. ⻬Rock formations and grottoes in the tranquil Parc de Belleville

(20e) are still around from the days when the hill was a strategic point for fighting Attila the Hun. Watch the sun set over western Paris and take in the wonderful (free!) views of the city. Topped by

the Maison de l’Air,a museum with displays devoted to the air that

we breathe, you can enjoy fountains, a children’s play area, and an open-air theater that holds rock concerts during the summer.

The Best Shopping

Though the city has a well-deserved reputation as a bastion of over-the-top luxury (to understand why, head for the 8th arrondissement), discount, resale, and overstock stores also abound, as well as the wonderful Monoprix (see below). Whenever I’m in Paris, a visit to the following stores is a must. See Chapter 12 for more information on the stores listed here.

⻬Monoprix,a reasonably priced department store with branches

around the city, has stylish clothing and is also great for accessories, low-priced cosmetics, lingerie, and house wares. Many locations also have large grocery stores good for gift buying. The one at 52 av. du Champs-Elysées, 8e, is chock-full of goodies and open until midnight.

⻬Le Bon Marché(6e) is elegant, but small enough to be manageable,

and is the Left Bank’s only department store. You can find the top designers here, as well as more affordable pieces, too, and the basement toy store has great gift selections. The third floor is par-ticularly renowned for its large shoe selection and lingerie depart-ment (where dressing rooms have phones to summon your salesperson).

⻬Although it isn’t cheap, Le Bon Marché’s next-door grocery store,

Le Grand Épicerie(6e) is one of the best luxury supermarkets in

Paris and a great place to look for gourmet gifts such as olive oils, homemade chocolates, or wine. It makes for wonderful one-stop picnic shopping, too, offering a wide array of prepared foods and cheeses. If you’re staying in an apartment or your hotel has a kitchen for guests, come here to purchase fixings for dinner.

The Best of Culture

Getting “cultured” is not a problem in Paris. There are more than 100 theaters, competing opera houses, and ballet and chamber music con-certs in many churches. Even if your French is rusty or not up to par, many avant-garde productions and English-language theaters serve as alternatives to French-language plays. In this section, I list some of the

best places to see theater, watch a ballet, or hear a symphony. See Chapter 15 for more information.

⻬You can see dazzling performances by the national opera and ballet

troupes that perform at both the radiant Palais Garnier(9e) and the ultramodern Opéra National de Bastille(11e). The Palais Garnier conducts more ballet performances, and the Opéra Bastille puts on more opera.

⻬A good mix of modern and classic tragedies and comedies comes

alive in wonderful performances in the Salle Richelieuof the

Comédie-Française,2 rue de Richelieu, 1er.

⻬For popular, contemporary plays, the Théâtre National de

Chaillot,place du Trocadéro, 16e, is your place.

⻬Whatever your choice of the classic arts — opera, ballet, concerts, recitals — you’ll find it performed at the Châtelet, Théâtre Musical

de Paris(1er) by local and international performers of the highest

caliber.

⻬More than a dozen Parisian churches regularly schedule relatively

inexpensive organ recitals and concerts. The most glorious, where the music is nearly outdone by the glorious stained glass windows,

is Sainte-Chapelle(4e).

The Best Clubs

Each neighborhood makes a different contribution to Paris’s vibrant nightlife scene. Listed here are some of the best places to dance the night away. See Chapter 16 for more information.

⻬Barrio Latino(11e) has three bars on four floors, private areas

where you can see (but not be seen), a second floor restaurant serving Latino food, a top-floor private club with a kitschy Che Guevara mural, and energetic Latin music that sets everyone to dancing. It’s pure fun!

⻬Batofar(13e), an Irish light ship docked right in the Seine, is one

hot, sweaty, and ultimately fun time right on the Seine, with all types of music represented, from drum-and-bass to British pop. ⻬Where else in Paris will you dance to the Hives and the Cure fol-lowed by some electro-pop spun by great DJs (and down some great beer, too)? It’s at the unassuming Le Truskel(2e), an Irish pub with a basement “microclub” that has been drawing in crowds of 20-somethings since it opened in 2002.

⻬Le Mix(15e) boasts spinning provided by music gurus Ministry of