Fabric Science

J. J. Pizzuto’s

FABRIC SCIENCE

SWATCH KIT

Tenth Edition

allen c. cohen

ingrid johnson

FABRIC SCIENCE

FA I R C H I L D B O O K S

New York

FABRIC SCIENCE

t e n t h e d i t i o n

Swatch Kit

Before removing rubberbands from

fabric swatches, refer to “Mounting the

Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets.”

J . J . P i z z u t o ’ s

Allen C. Cohen

Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Ingrid Johnson

Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias Assistant Acquisitions Editor: Amanda Breccia

Assistant Art Director: Sarah Silberg Production Director: Ginger Hillman Senior Production Editor: Elizabeth Marotta

Copyeditor: Jeff Klingman Ancillaries Editor: Noah Schwartzberg Executive Director & General Manager: Michael Schluter

Associate Director of Sales: Melanie Sankel Cover Design: Carolyn Eckert Text Design and Page Layout: Tronvig Group

Copyright © 2012 Fairchild Books, a Division of Condé Nast Publications. All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical,

including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher.

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: ISBN: 978-1-60901-358-5

GST R 133004424

Printed in the United States of America MC01, MC06

Assignment 7 / Yarns:

To Examine Different Yarns of the Same Fiber Content

Assignment 8 / Yarns:

To Determine Yarn Structure Assignment 9 / Woven Fabrics: To Analyze a Woven Fabric Structure Assignment 10 / Woven Fabrics: To Create Basic Weaves Assignment 11 / Woven Fabrics:

To Study a Fabric with an Uncut Pile Weave Assignment 12 / Woven Fabrics:

To Determine “V” and “W” Shape Cut Pile Interlacings

Assignment 13 / Woven Fabrics:

To Reproduce a Fabric Weave on Design Paper Assignment 14 / Knitted Fabrics:

To Determine Knitted Fabric Structure Assignment 15 / Knitted Fabrics:

To Determine Properties of Knitted Fabrics

Key to Fabric Swatches

How to Use the Fabric Science Swatch Kit

Assignments

Mounting Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets Using the Pick Glass

What’s in a Fabric Name? Assignments

Assignment 1 / Fibers:

To Relate Fiber Properties to Product Use Assignment 2 / Fibers:

To Show Variety of Types of Fabrics Made of the Same Fiber

Assignment 3 / Fibers:

To Evaluate Textile Absorbency Assignment 4 / Fibers:

To Identify Fibers by Solubility Assignment 5 / Fibers:

To Calculate Percentage of Fiber Content Assignment 6 / Yarns:

To Evaluate Yarns

CONTENTS

Assignment 25 / Analysis of Fabrics: To Compare Covering Power Assignment 26 / Analysis of Fabrics: To Analyze the Color Effect of a Woven

Fabric Design

Assignment 27 / Analysis of Fabrics: To Analyze a Fabric

Assignment 28 / Fabric Performance Testing: To Determine Tests to Perform on Fabrics for

a Specific End Product

Assignment 29 / Fabric Performance Testing: To Determine the Durability of the Fabrics Assignment 30 / Fabric Performance Testing: To Determine Fabric Wrinkle Resistance Assignment 31 / Fabric Performance Testing: To Determine Colorfastness Properties

of Fabrics

Assignment 32 / Textile Laws:

To Develop Appropriate Labels to Satisfy Federal Laws

Fabric Sample Sheets

Assignment 16 / Dyed Fabrics:

To Determine the Degree of Dye Penetration Assignment 17 / Dyed Fabrics:

To Determine Stage of Dyeing and Possible Dye Class Used

Assignment 18 / Printed Fabrics: To Evaluate Printed Design

Assignment 19 / Textiles for Interiors:

To Examine Railroading of Upholstery Fabrics Assignment 20 / Textiles for Interiors:

To Examine Finishes on Textiles for Interiors Assignment 21 / Textiles for Interiors:

To Examine Fabrics for Down-filled Cushions, Quilts, or Pillows

Assignment 22 / Textiles for Interiors: To Examine Fabrics Suitable for Curtains

and Draperies

Assignment 23 / Textiles for Interiors: To Examine Fabrics Suitable for Interiors Assignment 24 / Analysis of Fabrics: To Produce Fabric Patterns

C O N T E N T S

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length and width directions. (The long swatch direc-tion is the fabric length.)

The swatches have been organized in approxi-mately the order in which they will be studied: fibers, yarns, weaves, knits, dyeing, printing, finishing, etc.

The Fabric Science Swatch Kit also contains a Key to identify the swatches by number and fabric name; description and fiber content; Assignments; and Fabric Sample Sheets for mounting swatches.

Assignments

The assignments are designed to reinforce the text and classroom lectures. They are developed to broaden your understanding of the key concepts concerning textiles by involving you directly in problem solving. Successful completion of the assignments will help you develop skills of observations, analysis, and report writing.

The assignments are straightforward and basic. Extensive laboratory equipment is not required. Suf-ficient information is provided for work to be indepen-dent of a classroom environment.

For assignments that are to be completed in the classroom, read the assignment before coming to class. Use your textbook to review the related material prior to the class meeting.

T

he Fabric Science Swatch Kit has been assembled to supplement the study of textiles. The swatches and assignments will enhance your understanding of the principles described in the textbook. This Swatch Kit is designed to accompany the Fabric Science, Tenth Edition, text.

Most of the fabrics contained in the Fabric Science

Swatch Kit have been obtained from the marketplace.

They have been sold to apparel or interior furnishing manufacturers and have eventually appeared in stores as textile products (e.g., jackets and decorative pillows).

The 114 fabric swatches included in the Swatch Set represent examples of every major type of fiber, yarn, weave, and knit as well as examples of dye, print, and finishing applications. Examples are also provided for more recent materials such as microde-nier fiber, lyocell fiber, and special purpose “high-tech” fabric such as Staybright™ bleach-resistant fabric. In addition, a fabric made of eco-friendly fibers, such as organic cotton and reprocessed wool, have been in-cluded.

The swatches have not been “pinked,” but left with straight edges to make it easier to remove yarns (this is necessary for fabric analysis). The rectangu-lar form has been chosen to correspond to the fabric

HOW TO USE THE FABRIC SCIENCE SWATCH KIT

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Before removing rubberbands from

fabric swatches, refer to

“Mount-ing the Swatches on Fabric Sample

5. Press the swatch with the tape in place on

the Fabric Sample Sheet. Cut and remove any loose yarns extending beyond the edges of the swatches.

6. Write the fabric name, number, and fiber content

on the Fabric Sample Sheet.

As a helpful example of how the mounting boards are used, see Swatch #1 Denim below.

Swatch Number: 1

Fabric Name: Denim Fiber Content: Cotton Yarn Type: Spun

Weave/Knit Type: 2/1 45° Twill Weave Yarns/Stitches per Inch: 61 x 48 Method of Coloration: Yarn dyed Filling: Not dyed

Finish: Calendered End Use: Jeans

Notes: Not suitable for “skinny” jeans

Using the Pick Glass

The pick glass has become universal in its applications in the field of textiles and clothing. Designers, technicians, students, and teachers have found it to be an important tool for a better and clearer examination of fabrics. Yarn types, fabric weaves, knit stitches, and cloth defects can be more easily identified through its proper use. The pick glass (enclosed in this Swatch Kit) is particularly useful to determine the yarns per inch in woven fabrics or the stitches per inch in knit fabrics. (Fabric construction is a measure of fabric quality.) The pick glass (examining glass), or linen tester, is composed of a frame, magnifying lenses, and a measured opening in the base opposite the lenses. When the pick glass is opened properly, the measuring lines on the base are visible when looking through the lenses.

Fabrics to be examined should be placed on a flat, smooth surface. The surface must be well-lighted. The open pick glass is placed on top of the cloth and viewed through the lens section. The user’s head and not the pick glass should be raised or lowered for better focus.

Mounting the Swatches on Fabric

Sample Sheets

Materials: Set of swatches; Fabric Sample Sheets;

dou-ble-stick tape or masking tape (3/4-inch wide); scissors The Fabric Science swatches have been placed in numerical order in the proper positions for mounting. Mount them on the Fabric Sample Sheets.

The fabric number, name, and color listed in the Key are in the same sequence as the swatches in the packets. To make mounting your swatches simple and foolproof, follow these instructions:

1. Do not remove the rubberbands from the packets

until you actually begin mounting the swatches.

2. The swatches are packaged in two separate

pack-ets. One packet labeled “A” contains swatches 1–63; the second packet, labeled “B,” 64–114; and every 10 swatches are separated with tissue.

Packet One “A”:

Fibers (1–15) Yarns (16–27) Woven Fabrics (28–48) Knitted Fabrics (49–63) Packet Two “B”: Knitted Fabrics (64–69) Other Types of Fabrics (70–75) Dyed Fabrics (76–80)

Printed Fabrics (81–88) Textile Finishes (89–98) Special Fabrics (99–114)

3. Carefully remove the rubberbands from the

pack-et labeled “A”. Keep the packpack-et upright. Mount each swatch as you see it—face up and longer sides vertical. (Do not turn the swatch over; some fabrics have a face and back.)

4. Cut a two-inch piece of tape. When using

mask-ing tape, fold the piece in half with the sticky side out. Apply the tape to the back of the swatch, with the two ends of the tape pointing downward, about 1/2 inch from the top of the sample. The tape will make it easier to remove swatches for assignments and experiments, and to return them to the Fabric Sample Sheets.

H O W T O U S E T H E F A B R I C S C I E N C E S W A T C H K I T

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he Fabric Science Swatch Kit contains many classic woven and knit fabrics. Most fabric names are rooted in historic origin and were originally produced only from natural fibers. However, as manufactured fibers were developed (most within the 20th century), many of these original fabrics began to be made from these new fibers. For example, taffeta was originally made from 100% silk. Now taffeta is made from rayon, acetate, nylon, or polyester. All taffeta fabrics will have similar appear-ances, but some properties will be different because of the dif-ferent fiber content (e.g., strength). Fabric #26 in this swatch packet is an example of taffeta made from nylon while fabric #94 is made of acetate.

Another example of a classic fabric originally made only from silk is fabric #15, bridal satin. This fabric appears similar to silk satin, but is made from acetate.

Many fabrics do not have historic names. Some of these have names which describe the general end use. Fabric #21, bathing-suit fabric, and fabric #111, luggage fabric, are two such examples. Other fabrics have properties that are unique and somewhat different from any historic name fabric, or end-use fabric. These are described by their special properties. Fab-rics #68, sports jersey, fabric #98, accordion pleat, and fabric #104, rip stop, are such examples. The woven fabric moiré faille, #31, is an example of a classic fabric whose name also includes a special fabric property (i.e., moiré design).

Look at the various names of the fabrics in the “Key to Fabric Swatches” to distinguish the classic name from the non-classic ones.

WHAT’S IN A FABRIC NAME?

© 2012 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.

FABRIC SCIENCE

t e n t h e d i t i o n

Key to Fabric Swatches

Before removing rubberbands from

fabric swatches, refer to “Mounting the

Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets.”

J . J . P i z z u t o ’ s

Allen C. Cohen

Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Ingrid Johnson

FIBERS

Swatch

Number Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

1 Denim (blue) Cotton Cotton 2 Broken twill (black & grey) Wool (woolen) Wool 3 Tropical worsted (glen plaid) Wool (worsted) Wool

4 Sueded twill (black) Cashmere Cashmere/polyester (blend) 5 3D-design Mohair Mohair/wool (blend) 6 Heather effect (purple) Reprocessed wool Wool and other fibers 7 Taffeta (plaid) Cultivated silk Silk

8 Pongee (ivory) Duoppioni silk Silk 9 Pin check Tussah silk Silk 10 Linen (off-white) Flax Flax 11 Microfiber fabric (army green) Polyester (microfilament) Polyester 12 Hampton twill (black) Lyocell Lyocell 13 Nainsook (aqua) Ramie Ramie

14 Lining (drab olive) Rayon Bemberg® _rayon

15 Bridal satin (bright blue) Acetate Acetate

Also see:

25 Lamé Metallic __ 26 Tissue taffeta Nylon __ 34 Pointed twill Spandex __ 49 Jersey knit Acrylic __ 50 Baby jersey Organic cotton __ 64 High pile knit Modacrylic __

YARNS

Swatch

Number Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

16 Chambray (dk. blue) Carded yarn Cotton 17 Broadcloth (taupe grey) Combed yarn Cotton

18 Linen look (boulder grey) Novelty yarn (thick and thin) Polyester/rayon (blend) 19 Spider knit (white) Textured filament Polyester

20 Novelty suiting Novelty yarns (bouclé, tufts, plied) __

21 Bathing suit fabric (hot pink) 4 way stretch Nylon and spandex 22 Chiffon (pale pink) High twist filament yarn Polyester

23 Georgette (salmon) Crepe twist yarn Polyester 24 Crystal organza (white) Monofilament yarn Nylon

25 Lamé (gold) Metallic yarn Metallic and nylon (mixture) 26 Tissue taffeta (pale eggplant) Filament yarn Nylon

27 Shaggy knit (ice blue) Textured yarn and eyelash yarn Polyester and nylon

Also see:

31 Faille Fabric mixture __ 35 Sateen Corespun __ 65 Tricot jersey 15d. __ 66 Tricot jersey 40d. __ 78 Lightweight poplin Blended yarn __ 111 Luggage fabric High denier yarn __ 113 Buckram Filling: monofilament __

WOVEN FABRICS

Swatch

Number Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

28 Gauze (greige) Yarn distortion Cotton 29 Lawn (white) Plain weave (fine) Cotton 30 Batiste (print) Plain weave (printed) Cotton 31 Faille (ice green) Plain weave (ribbed) Warp: acetate

Filling: cotton 32 Cord (mineral green) Cord effect Cotton 33 Chino (beige) Twill weave Warp: cotton

Filling: cotton and spandex (corespun)

34 Pointed twill (orange crush) Broken twill weave Warp: cotton

Filling: cotton and spandex (corespun)

35 Sateen (pebble) Satin weave Warp: cotton

Filling: cotton and spandex (corespun)

36 Antique satin (dusty green) Satin weave (novelty yarn) Warp: acetate Filling: rayon 37 Striped lining Multiple effect Acetate 38 Piqué (apple green) Piqué weave Cotton 39 Terrycloth (beige) Warp pile weave (uncut) Cotton 40 Corduroy (navy) Filling pile weave (cut) Cotton 41 Velveteen (lagoon) Filling pile weave (cut) Cotton 42 Velvet (patterned) Warp pile weave (cut) Rayon 43 Upholstery velvet (brown) Warp pile weave (cut) Back: cotton

Pile: wool/rayon (blend) 44 Sculpted upholstery velvet

(camel) Warp pile weave (cut) __ 45 Evening wear dobby (black) Dobby weave Acetate 46 Tie fabric Dobby weave (long floats) Polyester 47 Natté damask (white) Jacquard weave Cotton

48 Upholstery brocade (sage) Jacquard weave Warp: polyester

Filling: cotton/rayon (blend)

Also see:

5 3D-design Long floats __ 9 Pin check Basket weave __ 110 Designer jacquard Jacquard __

KNITTED FABRICS

Swatch

Number Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

49 Jersey knit (black) Jersey (coarse) Acrylic

50 Baby jersey (greige) Jersey (fine) Cotton (organic, combed yarns)

51 Rib knit (steel grey) Rib knit (1x1) Cotton

52 Rib knit (black) Rib knit (2x2) Cotton and cotton and span-dex (corespun)

53 Interlock knit (striped) Ribbed Cotton and polyester (mixture) 54 Interlock knit (cobalt) Interlock Polyester

55 French terry (blue) Lay in yarn Ground: cotton

Lay in: polyester/cotton (blend) 56 Knit window pane check Knit jacquard Acrylic

57 Slinky (maroon) Supple drape Acetate, nylon, and spandex 58 Knit terry (orange) Loop-knit (uncut) Pile: cotton

Ground: cotton and polyester 59 Knit velour (baby blue) Loop-knit (cut) Pile: cotton

Ground: cotton and polyester 60 Argyle Argyle pattern White: cotton

Blue: polyester

61 Thermal knit type (white) Patterning with tuck stitches Polyester and cotton (mixture) 62 Puckered jersey (celery) Crinkle effect Polyester/spandex (corespun) 63 Fancy jersey Lay in yarns for surface effect __

64 High pile knit (fake fur) High pile knit Modacrylic 65 Tricot jersey (white) Tricot (15d.) Nylon 66 Tricot jersey (black) Tricot (40d.) Nylon 67 Satin tricot (metallic print) Satin tricot Polyester 68 Sports jersey (silver) Tricot mesh Nylon 69 Tulle (red) Raschel (sheer) Nylon

Also see:

74 Raschel lace Raschel lace __ 84 Ponte di roma Interlock __ 95 Panné velour Crushed, flattened surface __ 107 Matelassé knit Quilted effect __

OTHER TYPES OF TEXTILES

Swatch

Number Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

70 Interfacing Web nonwoven Polyester and rayon

71 Fusible nonwoven interfacing Fusible web nonwoven Polyester and rayon (polyester dots)

72 Felt (navy) Felt Wool and polyester 73 Eyelet fabric (white) Embroidered fabric Polyester/cotton (blend) 74 Raschel lace (purple) Raschel lace Nylon

75 Quilted material Quilted material Shell: acetate Filler: polyester Scrim: polyester

DYED FABRICS

Swatch

Number Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

76 Greige goods Greige goods Cotton 77 Iridescent (magenta) Piece dyed (cross) Blue: nylon

Pink: polyester

78 Lightweight poplin (peacock) Piece dyed (union) Polyester/cotton (blend) 79 Madras (plaid) Yarn dyed Cotton

80 Gingham (black and white) Yarn dyed Polyester/cotton (blend)

Also see:

13 Nainsook Piece dyed __ 112 Market umbrella fabric Solution dyed __

TEXTILE FINISHES PRINTED FABRICS

Swatch

Number Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

81 Printed check (black and

white) Printed woven design Polyester/cotton (blend) 82 Flannelette (print) Printed(napped finish) Cotton

83 Calico Blotch print Polyester/cotton (blend) 84 Ponte di roma (yellow) Overprint (pigment) Polyester

85 French piqué (stripe) Heat transfer print Polyester

86 ITY (blue print) ITY fabric Polyester and spandex (corespun)

87 Burn-out batiste

(white) Burn-out design (sheer effect) Cotton with polyester core 88 Burn-out velvet (black) Burn-out design (pile effect) Rayon and polyester (mixture)

Also see:

99 Liquid lamé Allover metallic effect __

*Courtesy of WestPoint Home

Swatch

Number Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

89 Staybright™ fabric* (orange) Bleach resistant color Cotton/polyester (blend) 90 Drill (olive) Suede finish Cotton

91 Brushed knit (lemon) Brushed (napped) finish Polyester 92 Paper taffeta (classic blue) Water repellent finish Nylon 93 Chintz (pink) Glazed calender finish Cotton 94 Moiré taffeta (black) Moiré finish Acetate

95 Panné Velour (silver grey) Crushed (flattened) surface Polyester and spandex (corespun)

96 Stretch plissé (blue and white) Pucker effect Warp: cotton

Filling: cotton and spandex (corespun)

97 Seersucker (multicolor) Seersucker Cotton 98 Accordion pleat Pleating Polyester

Also see:

17 Broadcloth Mercerized and compressive shrinkage finish __ 31 Faille Moiré finish __ 76 Greige goods Greige goods __ 79 Madras Fabric not mercerized __ 105 Yoryu Heat set crinkle effect __ 113 Buckram Stiffening finish __

SPECIAL FABRICS

Swatch

Number Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

99 Liquid lamé Allover metallic effect Polyester 100 Coated fabric (brown) Down proof Nylon 101 Allover flock (blue grey) Flocking Flock: nylon

Back: polyester/cotton (blend) 102 Moleskin (dusty pink) Lightly sueded finish Warp: polyester

Filling: polyester and spandex (corespun)

103 Poplinette (grey gull) Supplex® _{nylon Supplex}® _nylon

104 Rip stop fabric (silver sage) Rip stop Nylon 105 Yoryu (coral) Crinkle effect Polyester 106 Fortuny satin (antique white) Fortuny effect Rayon 107 Matelassé knit (brown) Quilted effect Polyester 108 Polar fleece® _{type (navy) Double brushed fabric Polyester}

109 Vinyl rainwear (black) Waterproof vinyl coating Face: vinyl Back: polyester 110 Designer jacquard Accessory fabric Face: nylon and rayon

(mixture) Back: vinyl 111 Luggage fabric High denier yarn Nylon 112 Market umbrella fabric** Sunbrella® _{acrylic Acrylic}

113 Buckram Stiffening finish Warp: cotton

Filling: polyester monofilament 114 Placemat material Plastic coated Nylon

FABRIC SCIENCE SWATCH KIT / Fabric Sample Sheet

© Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.

Swatch Swatch Swatch

Swatch Number Swatch Number Swatch Number Fabric Name Fabric Name Fabric Name

Fiber Content Fiber Content Fiber Content

Yarn Type Yarn Type Yarn Type Weave/Knit Type Weave/Knit Type Weave/Knit Type Yarns/Stitches per Inch Yarns/Stitches per Inch Yarns/Stitches per Inch Method of Coloration Method of Coloration Method of Coloration Finish Finish Finish

End Use End Use End Use