Budget DIY 2009

Pocket hote

jig

Versatite vise

Palm-sized screwdriver packs a punch Back pocket square

Multiuse tool that reatty works Three tools

in

one

Dual-use wire stripper Single-squeeze cautk gun Best rolter cleaner ever Stripped screw remover 10-use paint tool Big-grip spring ctamps

7t

72 73 74 90 93 94 97 54 58 61 62 66 80 82 87

Venetian plaster wa[[s Space-saving wa[[ niche Mud-busting boot scraper Regrout a shower Get a weed-free yard

Make over a room with trim Panel a wa[[

in

one weekend Transform a room with

painted rectangles

Quick fix for dirty dryer vents Repair a drippy shower Quiet a noisy fan Garage ceit'ing storage

Super-si mpte box shelves Steppingstone path Paint your kitchen cabinets Under-bed ro[[-out

98 103

9 ways to save etectricity Save $150 with CFLs

104

Cover leaky windows

106 110 115

Textured walts in one day Cast a concrete fountain Ti[e your backsplash

Summer sanctuary

Insta[[ kitchen cabinet crown molding Install open basket units

Bathroom cabinet Custom closet organizer

134

Elegant and easy bookcase

138

Attractive barbecue cart

747

Wallpaper one watl 118

122

728 133

6

10 simple cabinet repairs

10

Super-simpte DVD hotder

77

Scum-proof your shower doors Replace a broken dryer vent cap Speed-ctean

for

cheap

Fix seams

in

watlpaper Clean chandetiers quickty Better

traction

on concrete Stabitize a wobbl"y bookcase Repair smatt holes

in

walts Quick

fix

for a wobbly table leg Patch watls

with

aluminum Balance a ceiting fan Reclaim crusty paint Cautk cracked concrete Ftoor-friendty feet for furniture Repair otd extensjon cords

SPECIAL SECTION:

1O-minute plumbing fixes

20

Unclog a

tub

drain without chemica[s

27

Replace a [eaky water valve

22

Fast

fix

for

a slow-filting washer

23

Qujet ctanking pipes Fix a slow-running faucet

24

Keep your washing machine fresh

A

trick for

splicing

in

plastic drainpipe 12 13 74 75 76 77 18

t9

Replace

worn-out

drawer

slides

Ifyou find that slides are bent, rollers are broken or rollers won't turn even after lubricating, replacement is the best solution. To keep the project simple, buy new slides that are identical (or almost identical) to the old ones. That way, replacement is an easy

matter of unscrewing the old and screwing on the new. Remove a

drawer track and a cabinet track and take them shopping with you. Whether you have pairs of side-mounted slides (as shown here) or single, center-mount slides, there's a good chance you'll find very similar slides at a home center for $5 to $15 per drawer. If you can't find them, check with a cabinet materiais supplier (in

the yellow pages under "Cabinets, Equipment and Supplies").

Lubricate

sticking

drawers

A few minutes of cleaning and lubricating can make drawer slides glide almost like new. Start by removing the drawers so you can inspect the slides. You can remove most drawers by pulling them all the way out, then either

lifting

or lowering the

front of

the drawer

until

the wheels come out of the track. Wipe the tracks clean and coat them with a light spray lubri-cant. Also lubricate the rollers and make sure they spin easily.

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lrff:labroken

g

Don't put up with a bro corner joint on a drawer Fix it before the whole drawer comes apart. Remove the drawer and

then

remove

the

drawer

front

from the

drawer

box if possible. Most fronts are fastened by

a

couple

of

screws inside the box. Wood glue

will

make a strong repair

if

there's

wood-to-wood contact at the joint.

_If

the wood

at the

joint

is coated, use epoxy instead of wood glue.

't$

Remove naits,

-*. staples or screws from the loose joint and scrape away

old glue with a utitity knife.

Predritl 1/16-in. holes for nails, apply wood glue to the joint

and naiI

it

together with 1-1/2-in. finish nails.

Glue

loose

knobs

_screw

Fill stripped

_holes

When cabinet doors, catches or drawer slides aren,t working right, first make sure the screws are tight.

If

a screw turns but

doesn't tighten, the screw hole is stripped. Here's a quick remedy: Remove the screw and

hard-ware.

Dip

toothpicks

in

glue, jam as many as you can into the hole and break them off. Either

flat or

round toothpicks

will

work.

If

you don't have tooth-picks handy, shave splinters off a

wood scrap with a utility knife. Immediately wipe away glue drips

with

a damp cloth. You don't have to wait for the glue to

dry or drill new screw holes; just go ahead and reinstall the

hard-ware by driving screws right into the toothpicks.

Any handle

or

knob

that

comes loose once is likely

to

come loose again. Put a permanent stop

to

this

problem with a _{tiny drop of}

thread adhesive like Loctite (about $4 at home

cen-ters). Don'tworry;

if

you want

to replace your hard-ware sometime

in

the future, the knobs

will still

come

off

with

a screwdriver.

Touch

up

nicks

and

scratches

il*irilHif:i":;:#'"$

wipe

off

the excess

with

a rag. But beware: Scratches can absorb lots

of

stain and turn darker than the surrounding finish. So start with a marker that's lighter than your cabinet

finish and then switch

to

a darker shade

if

needed. For deeper scratches, use a filler pencil, which fills and colors the scratch. If the cabinet finish is dingy overall and has lots of scratches,

consider a wipe-on product like Old English Scratch Coat (96 at home centers). These prod-ucts can darken the finish slightly, so you have to apply them to all your cabinets.

Clean a

yucky

cutting

board

If you love the convenience of your _{pullout wooden cutting board but don't use}

_it

because

itk

stained and grungy, try this chef-approved, two-step process. Simply scour the board with a lemon and a pile of kosher salt, then apply mineral oil. The coarse kosher salt is an excellent abrasive, and the citric acid kills bacteria. when the stains are gone, rinse the board with water and let it dry. Then appry mineral oil to

the board. Mineral oil helps prevent the wood from absorbing stains.

C

nppty mineral oit to the

L

board and wipe off the

excess. After a few hours,

apply a second coat.

Buyer's guide

AIL _{the cabinet hardware and products mentioned here are available at home}

centers and hardware stores. For a targer setection of hinges, catches and

drawer _{stides, check out Woodworker's Hardware at} wwhirdware.com,

[800) 383-01 30.

Super-simple

DVD

holder

his clever shelf holds DVDs, CDs or even small books. You can make yours with as many shelves as you like

sim-ply by changing the length of the trunk.

To get started, cut the trunk and shelves to length. Bevel one end of each shelf by tilting your miter saw or table saw blade to 5 degrees. Mark the notches in the shelves and trunk (Photos

I

and 2). Measuring from the top ofthe trunk, center the notches at 8-112, 11.-112, 17-114,20-114,26-114and.29 in. Cut the notches using a 5-degree guide block and a pull saw (available at home centers for $17.50). Assemble the shelf (Photo 3). Screw metal straps to the back of the trunk, leaving one screw hole exposed so you can screw the DVD holder to the wall.

1-5l8" SCREW

I

{

Ef<-srRAP

{Ll-cost: $10 if made from [auan as shown. Materials:8 ft. of 1x6,

TRUNK 314" x5-112" x34"

{

Set your bevel gauge at 5 degrees using the miter gauge

I

and fence of your table saw.

J

Test-fit each shetf and then gtue

it

into pl,ace.

If

a shelf

J

tits

so tightly that it's hard to remove after test fitting, just leave

it-no

glue is needed.

wood gtue, Z-in. x 1l?-in metaI straps, 1 -5l8-in.

screws, spray lacquer.

SHELF

314" x5-112" x7"

5'BEVEL

O

tqart the notches on the edge of the trunk using the bevel

1

g"ug". Mark the face of the trunk with a square.

Scum-proof

your shower

doors

Keeping shower doors clean and streak free is a

challenge-unless you know the pros'cleaning secret. Start by cleaning any mold, mildew or streaks off the glass with a glass cleaner. Use a

Mr. Clean Magic Eraser ($3 for a two-pack at home centers and discount stores) to get into the cracks

in

textured glass. Scrape off tough buildup with a razor blade. Dry the doors with

a cloth.

Tieat the doors with a product like Aquapel

($8; autobodydepot.com) or Rain-X ($5 at auto parts stores and home centers). These glass treatments form an invisible film on the glass to increase water repellency, causing water and

soap to bead up and run offthe glass. (Squeegee

off the water after bathing to keep soap scum from building up again.) Spray or wipe on the glass

treatment, then wipe

it

off with

a

microfiber cloth. Overspray won't harm sur-rounding surfaces. The products repel water for

six months.

ffiepfimce

ffi hnm*qmffi

dnyffin

_{wffiffit ffiffiffi}

C

Dryer vent caPs are deliberately lighrweight so they'll

open

used to attach the cap to the siding and cut through the

easily, but this flimsiness also means they'll break easily.

The

caulk around the edges (Photo 1). pull out the cap, scrape caps, especially the type with multiple small flaps, also

clog

away old caulk and dirt, and then wipe the siding clea., so easily with lint. (Avoid this t)?e unless you're

conscientious

_{new caulk will} stick.

about cleaning

it.)

_{Cut the new vent pipe to the same length as the old} one, To replace an old vent cap, first pull apart the duct

at

then slide it through the wall. Screw the cap to the siding and the last joint inside the house. If the duct doesn't pull

apart

caulk around the edges with paintable caulk.

easily, look for small screws holding the sections of

pipe

Finally, join the old duct inside the house to the new vent together' Next, go outside and remove the screws or

nails

(Photo2).Ventcapsareavailablefor$8athomecenters.

Cut the old caulk with a

utility

knife and pull out the vent from the outside.

Insert the duct from the dryer into the new vent duct and wrap the joint with metal tape.

PROOF YOUR SHOWER DOORS: REPLACE A BROKEN DRYER VENT CAP

Sffieed-dean

_for

cheap

Use

a

multipurpose cleaner

Stop using four to six products to clean your bathroom. Use one multipurpose cleaner that does it all, such as Mr. Clean Multi-Surfaces Cleaner with Febreze ($3

for

28 ozs.).

With

a multipurpose cleaner, bathroom cleaning takes five minutes. mrclean.com

Use

a

stain remover

Stain removers like Super Iron Out ($10 for 5 lbs.) make quick work of rust stains in sinks, tubs and toilets. Pour

it

onto a sponge or add it to the water in the toilet bowl, then scrub with the sponge or a nylon-bristle brush. You can get rid of most stains in less than five minutes.

s u m m it bra nds. co m

Use

a

Magic

Eraser

Use

a

disposercleaner

Forget lemons-clean and deodorize your garbage disposer with a product like Disposer Care ($4 for a package of

six packets), in about I 5 seconds. Turn on the hot water, pour a

packet of Disposer Care

into

the disposer and turn

it

on. Do it once a week. disposercare.com one likes cleaning the house,

but you can make the chore take a lot less time. Here are

the best cleaning products to keep your house sparkling and save you several hours of cleaning per week. You won't have

to

spend a

lot

of

money either-most of the products that help you work smarter cost less than $5.

Yr*"#'f-h"*

old vacuum. A HEPA vacuum filter (starting at $8) captures microscopic airborne particulates. Old-fashioned paper or conventional vacuum bags capture only about 30 percent ofdust and allergens, and blow the rest back into the air.

Use

Tide

with

Dawn

StainScrubbers

g',,;1,ii'ip.,;;

with

Dawn

Stain-Scrubbers ($6.50

for

50 ozs.), a detergent that can handle stains in the wash cycle, saves you valuable time. tide.com

12

PRoJEcrs UNDER $1 o

A Mr.

Clean Magic Eraser ($3 for a

two-pack)

easily rubs scuff and grease marks offthe wall. mrctean.com

Use

Dishwasher

Magic

Dishwasher cleaning takes about five seconds

with this

method:

put

a

bottle of Dishwasher Magic ($5) in the silverware basket and

run

an

;;,;*";"";r.s,c.com$)

n

W

Fixseam-

g

in

wallpaper*

Repairing loose wallpaper seams is fairly simple and doesn't require a steamer. |ust apply a seam

repair adhesive.

It

provides a solid bond and

will

keep the seams from coming loose. It's available at paint stores and home centers for

less than $10.

Squirt the adhesive directly onto the wall behind the loose seams, then press the edges back into place. Use a roller or straightedge as

shown to firmly press the paper against the wall and drive out any air bubbles. Wipe away any

excess adhesive with a damp sponge.

Clean

chandeliers

guickly

;f

:J;;ffi

:lltT,H.:ilH::1,:1"-#ilnT?,:,,.:.ilitll;H,9

a ladder. Want an easier way? Try a spray-on chandr spread a plastic tarp on the floor or table under the ch

drips. Then turn off the light and spray the solurion on the chandelier until liquid

beads start to run (you'll use a lot ofspray, but it beats wiping). The spray rinses

off

the dust. The solution that's left evaporates quickly and doesn't leave water spots.

The spray works well on hanging crystals, but don't expect it to remove dust from

crevices. Buy it for $10 from nancysilver.com or chandelierparts.com.

Better

traction

on

concrete

Paint stores sell additives that you mix with a gallon

of

any type of paint or solid-color stain to give you better traction on concrete surfaces. The additive won't change

the color of the paint or stain, but it provides texture to improve traction. Don't expect a completely slip-resist-ant surface.

Stir the additive

into

the

paint

(one package per gallon), then apply the paint with a paintbrush or roller. If you're applying more than one coat, put the additive in the final coat. The additive costs about $4.

Mix the nonskid _{floor additive with the paint.} Then

apply the paint to give the surface a rough texture to help prevent slips.

Stabi

lize

a

wobbly

bookcase

arpet is held

in

place by tack strips placed along the perimeter of the room. When you set your bookcase (or

any other furniture) over the strips, it won't sit level. You have a couple of options to keep the bookcase stable. The first is to pull the carpet free of the tack strip, cut out a strip of padding where the front corners of the bookcase

will

sit, and replace the padding with a wood shim that's the same thickness as

the tack strip, usually l/4 to 3/8 in. (Option 1 _).

Option 2 is to install adjustable feet (called gliders; $4 at home centers) on the corners

of

the bookcase. They're simple to

install-just drill

a hole and insert the feet. You won't have to

mess with the carpet, but the feet may be noticeable, which you might not like.

Resist the temptation to simply remove the tack strip. The car-pet can move, even under the weight of the bookcase, eventually resulting in a carpet wrinkle in the room.

Regardless of the option you choose, secure the bookcase to

the wall so it can't tip over. A child climbing or pulling on an unse-cured bookcase could knock it over (hundreds ofkids are injured

each year by falling furniture). Fasten a furniture strap to the wall and the bookcase to keep

it

from tipping over. The straps cost about $6 at Target and hardware stores. Or, fasten the bookcase to the wall by driving 3-in. screws through the back of the bookcase (at obscure locations) into studs (be sure you hit studs). A total of four screws-two screws into two studs-is plenty.

0PTION

2:

Drilt hotes and install adjustable feet on the bookcase corners to levet

it

from front to back and side to side,

'I

,N

:r i

OPTION

1:

Pu[l back the carpet. Measure from the wall the width of the bookcase, cut away the padding, then insert shims for the bookcase corners,

,Y!

t*

l/,

1

r,

.i \

'

,\

_,1

Rep*ir

srnall holes

in

walls

Small holes caused by screws, hooks, wall fasteners or drywall fasteners that pop up are simple to repair, but time consuming because you almost always have to repaint the walls. Nail pops are common and particularly irritating,

because you're likely to have more than one. But drywall

screws sometimes pop up too, as a result of damp framing that dries out and shrinks during the first year or two in new construction.

The first step of the fix is to drive nails back down using a

nail set (Photo 1). If you have screws, dig the drywall com-pound from their heads with a utility knife and turn them in tight with a screwdriver.

Then dimple the hole slightly concave with a hammer to indent any raised edges. But take care not to crush the dry-wall core. In addition, cut away any paper tears with a sharp

utilityknife. This is a good technique to use with old wall

fas-teners as well. It's usually easier to tap them into the wall slightly rather than pull them out.

Two coats of joint compound, applied with two swipes of

a putty knife in a "+" pattern, should fill the holes (photo 3). The first coat will shrink a bit, leaving a slightly smaller dent to be filled by the second coat. Scrape the excess off the surrounding wall so you don't build up a hump. Sand lightly to blend with the surrounding wall.

Be sure _{to prime the spot before painting it. Otherwise} the paint will absorb into the patch and make the area look different from the surrounding paint. Use a roller when priming to help raise the surface texture to match the sur-roundingwall.

Drive a popped nail betow the surface of the drywall with a hammer and a nail set. Cut away loose joint compound and paper shreds.

Drive drywall screws about

7-t/2

in. above and below the popped nai[. Sink the screw head just below the surface of the drywait.

Fil[ the holes with joint

compound, swiping first across

the holes, then down. Let dry apply a second coat, then sand,

prime and paint.

Quick

fix

for

a

wobbly

table

leg

Got a table leg, a swing set or just about any other item with chronically loose nuts and bolts? Here's a quick fix to keep metal threads tight once and for all (not for plastics) using color-coded Loctite Threadblocker products.

Loctite Threadblocker Blue 242 (97 ar home cenrers) is great for locking together 114-in.- to 3/4-in.-diameter fasteners. Blue creates a

strong hold but can be broken free to unscrew the fastener when neces-sary. Red Loctite 271 ($7) is for larger fasteners and more permanent connections for swing sets, decks and ready-to-assemble furniture.

With either color, you just squeeze a little Loctite adhesive onto the threads and then tighten the fastener. The bond will set in 20 minutes and cure completely in 24 hours. The Loctite adhesive prevents fasteners

from vibrating loose or rusting. It also does a good job of sealing metal

plugs in water or air tanks. _{Clean and dry the parts. Appty Loctite Threadblocker} Blue

to the fastener threads and reassemble the table.

Patch wallg

with

aluminum

he traditional method of repairing holes in walls is to square the hole, put wood backing behind

it,

cut and screw on a drywall patch, and then tape the edges.

Aluminum patches, available at home centers and paint and hardware stores for $2 to $4, give the same results with much less

work. The patches, which come in 4-, 6- and 8-in. sizes, are stiff

enough to span holes and thin enough to disappear after taping and painting.

Select a patch large enough to overlap the hole on all sides by an inch, then stick the patch on (Photo 1). Patches can be cut

or overlapped as needed.

Tiowel on the first coat ofjoint compound over the patch, spreading the compound flat enough to see

the outline of the mesh through it (Photo 2).

Allow the compound to dry overnight, then apply a wider second coat (Photo 3), followed by a final, third coat after the second coat dries. Spread the compound in thin coats extending

8 to 12 in. beyond the patch in all directions.

After the final coat has dried overnight, sand it smooth, prime and paint (Photo 4).

Spread the first coat of joint compound over the patch with

a wide taping knife. Let

it

dry overnight.

4

Ctean off broken edges and tears around the hole. Then

l.ou.r

the hote entirety with the patch, sticky side toward the wa[t.

3

16

When it's dry, recoat the patch and then feather out the compound on atl sides to make the patch blend in.

PROJECTS UNDER $1 O

/.

Sand the patched area with a sanding sponge until

it

feets

e'*

_{smooth and even.}

Balanceaceilingfan

_s}

If

your ceiling fan wobbles and makes more racket than an

,n-

'*

the blade holder is firmiy screwed into the fan fl',vheel. Remove balanced _{washing machine load, this fix is for you. Ceiling}

_fan

_{anydustorbuildupfromthefalbladeswithahouseholdcleaner.}

l : ...i ,: I -,l .i: i ;rl-, ;": I :rr" j i I :, ;. t,

wobble is caused

by

Run the fan to check the wobble and to dry the fan blades. If the imbalances in the

fan

wobble persists, one of the blades may be out of alignment. blades or blade hoid- Check blade alignment with a _{yardstick by measuring the}

dis-ers, misalignment

of

tance from the edge of any blade to the ceiling (photo

_l),

and blades, excess

dust

make a note of the distance. Measure all the other blades in accumulation or

just

exactly the same manner. If any blade is out of alignment, gently loose blade

holder

bend the blade holder up or down until the blade is in line with

mounting

screws.

the others.

Restore your fan to

its

Turn the fan on to see

if it

spins smoothly. If

it

still wobbles, smooth-running

days

pick up a blade balancing kit (g6) from a hardware store or home before you wear

down

center. The balancing clip will balance the fan blades, eliminating

the moving

parts.

the wobble.

{

Measure the distance from the

I

ceiling to the edge of a blade with

a yardstick. Hold the yardstick stil[ and

rotate the fan to measure the other blades (most blades are angled, so be

sure to measure on the same side of atl the bLades).

.*:.,,

First, make sure

all

the

biades

are tightly screwed into

t*"hr.

the blade holder, and

Photo 2 shows how to attach the balancing clip and pinpoint the wobble. Once you've found the best location for the clip, install a balancing weight on the blade as shown in photo 3. Add more weight if needed to get a smooth-running fan.

)

suae the balancing ctip on the

E

trailing edge of any blade. haifway between the holder and

tip.

Run the fan

to check the wobble. Repeat with each

blade, noting which one most reduced

the wobbte, then slide the clip in small increments away from the center of that blade. Move the clip, operate the fan, then move

it

again until you eliminate as much wobble as possible.

Q

reet off the

back-J

ing and stick the adhesive-backed ba[-ancing weight on the top center of the btade directly in [ine with the ba[-ancing clip. ADHESIVE.BACKED

-

':*

J?

'flYf"'+.51i-ffimc$m$nx

*rrusty

pm*mt

You don't have to toss out old paint just because it contains a few gooey globs or chips. Instead, filter out the bad bits with a dispos-able _{paint strainer (about g1). Two types} of strainers are readily available at home centers and paint and hardware stores: the cone type and the mesh type, which does the job faster but is a bit messier to use. Keep in mind that old acrylic latex paint may not stand up to the elements as well as new paint. So

if

you have leftover exterior paint that's more than four years old, play it safe and buy new paint. Better to spend a few bucks now than to scrape peeling paint later.

.-\

ADHESIVE-BACKEDWEtcttt r'

Caulk

cracked

concrete

racks and gaps in concrete are more than just an eyesore.

Water can get into the joints, freeze and then expand, making the cracks even larger. Gaps against a house can direct water against the foundation, leading to more problems. Once a year, go around your home and filI these gaps and joints with urethane caulk to prevent problems. The caulk is available at contractor supply stores, home centers and hardware stores for about $5 per tube. For gaps and joints more than

l/4

in. wide, install foam backer rod to support the caulk. You want the rod to fit tight in the joint, so buy it one size larger than the gap. It costs about $3 per 20 ft.

Keep the urethane caulk offyour bare hands and clothes; it's the stickiest stuff you'll ever touch. Wear disposable gloves when you're tooling the joints.

If

you get some on your skin, quickly wipe it offwith a paint thinner-dampened cloth.

-*.

#sg

{

fusn foam backer rod into the gap with your fingers. Set

I

the rod 1/4 in. lower than the surface of the concrete.

Q

Cautt< cracks 7/4 in. wide or less without using backer rod.

rJ

Draw the gun down the crack, smoothing the caulk with the

tip

as you go.

)

fnthe

crack with urethane cautk. Snip the opening of the

E

tube at a 30-degree angle, making the opening the same size as your gap. Use a smooth, even motion,

fi[ing

the crack

flush with the surface, beveling

it if

it's against the house. Smooth the caulk in wide joints with the back of an old spoon. Wipe the spoon clean as needed with a rag and mineral spirits.

Floor-friendly

feet for

furniture

Most manufacturers put small metal buttons on

furniture

legs. Metal feet slide easily across factory and warehouse floors, but they can damage any type of hard flooring in

your

house (even ceramic tile). On carpet, a spilled drink

can even lead to rust stains, So

whenever you get a new piece

of furniture, go to your local

home center

or

hardware store, where

you'll

find

a

variety

of furniture

feet

for

less than $5.

,l

Remoue metat buttons on furniture tegs.

If

I

a button is sunk deep into the wood and you can't pry

it

out, dritt a 1/4-in. hote and lever

it

out with a small screwdriver.

)

StrX setf-adhesive pads to the

E

[egs or drive in nail-type feet. 0n hardwood legs, dritl a pilot hote

stightty smaller than the nait shank.

Pads

Felt or cloth pads are

gentle on ftoors, but they don't stide as

easily as plastic feet.

Make a sha[low cut lengthwise through the outer jacket, then tightty score around the cord until you can break the jacket off.

Cut and strip the wires to the length indicated in the strip gauge, leaving as much of the outer jacket as possible.

\

ff1,1:"1

:,5."*,::

il:

T,.:":,:::

because of rising copper prices, so rebuilding old, damaged ones with

new plugs or receptacle ends ($5) is a smart move.

(Photo I _). Don't push the blade

in-just

score the rubber jacket gently until you can tear the rubber off, so you don't accidentally cut into one ofthe wires.

strip the wires (look for a stripping gauge on the plug or in the instructions), then separate the wires and screw them into place. This step can be fussp especially with stiff l2-gauge wire, but resist the temptation to cut the insulation jacket

back-the more of the jacket you can leave inside the plug, the less likely it is to tear or pull out of the plug clamp when the cord is yanked out of an outlet.

close the plug and screw it together tightly so the cord is locked in. This replace-ment plug had a reversible gasket with a curved side for heary cords. other types use screws to hold the cord in place.

Twist the wires tight, then screw them into the plug-black to the gold screw, white to sitver, green to green.

Unclog

a

tub

drain

without

chemicals

bout 80 percent of the time, you can

fix

slow-draining or clogged tub drains

in

five minutes, without chemicals and

without a $100 plumber bill.

In

most cases, you'll only

need a screwdriver and a stiffwire or a bent coat hanger. The prob-lem is usuallyjust a sticky wad ofhair that collects on the crossbars, a few inches under the stopper. All you need to do is figure out how to remove the stopper (that's almost always easy) and fish out the gunk. Bend a little hook on the end of the stiff wire with a needle-nose pliers and shove

it

through the

clog-you'll

nearly always extract the entire ugly mess. If hair is wrapped around the crossbars, slice through

it

with a utility knife and then grab it with the wire.

Follow this series of photos to determine which type of stopper you have and how to remove

it.

The most common type, a drop stopPer (shown at right), has a setscrew located under the cap.

Pushflock

drain

stoppers

These stoppers lock and seal when you press them down and release when you push

down

_L

a second time. The way to remove them

isn't

_,

_I

so obvious. In most cases you have to hold

the \

Drop stoppers

Lift the stopper and loosen the screw on the shaft stightty. Stide the stopper off the shaft.

stem while unscrewing the cap as shown. With the cap off, you can sometimes fish out the hair from the crossbars. Otherwise simply remove the entire shaft by unscrewing it. You may have to adjust the screw tension on the stem when you reinstall everything to get a

good seal.

Hold the stopper shaft tightty with a finger and unscrew

the top.

"*\\

Levered stoppers

ilxT::::T:il:1#H#::T:L1t"T

[T.,P**B

Most ofthese have a lever on the overflow plate and

a screen over the drain. The screen keeps most

hair

_{- ,/}

out of the drain, but some gets through and eventually

forms a clog at the crossbars. Simply unscrew the screen for easy access to this clog and remove

it

as before,

If

the drain has an

internal stopper, simply unscrew the overflow plate and pull the linkage and stopper up and out. Then clean the linkage and stop-per and run water down the drain to flush it out.

Occasionally the linkage is out of adjustment and the stopper doesn't open far enough from its seat to allow a good flow. Adjust it, reinsert

it

and test it. Run water into the tub.

If

it

leaks out, Iengthen the stopper linkage to seal the drain better. If the drain doesn't open to let the water out, shorten the stopper linkage.

First remove the screen and clean the crossbars. Then unscrew

the overflow plate, pull out the linkage, clean the stopper and linkage, and rinse the drainpipes. Readjust the tinkage

if

necessary. Reinstatl the assembly.

.;J

If,;s

Replace

a

teaky

water valve

The key to replacing a leaky water valve is to use a special "slip" or "no-stop" coupling (available at home centers for

less than $3). Unlike traditional couplings, no-stop couplings don't have a flange or dimple that stops the plumbing pipe once it's inserted halfiuay into the

cou-pling. _{This lets you install the} cou-pling and move

it

back out of the way) then have room to insert the new section ofpipe.

Turn off the water, then cut the pipe about 6 in. from each side of the leaky valve, using a pipe cutter

or

a hacksaw. Place the no-stop coupling over the existing pipe. Cut a

new section ofpipe to replace the piece

you cut

out

(be sure

to

factor

in

the length of the water valve). Solder the pipe to the valve, then stick the

assem-bled section between the two existing pipes. Move the no-stop coupling over the new pipe, then solder all the joints.

fl\

.STOPPED" COUPLING {TWO swLEs) "NO-STOP" COUPLING

Move the no-stop coupling over the pipe assembly, then install the new valve and pipe assembly.

Move the no-stop coupling over the pipe assembly, then sotder

it

to the assembly and the existing pipe.

Fast

fix

for

a

slow-fitling

washer

lf

**i*.*#.T*ffr}i.']

plugged inlet screens. These screens catch debris in

the water supply and protect a washer's internal parts. Often, screens clog after a remodeling project or after work by city crews on water mains. Any work on water lines can loosen sediment in pipes and lead to plugged screens.

Cleaning the screens is a simple job. The only tricky part is removing the screens without wrecking them (Photo

l).

Don't just yank them out. Gently

squeeze and twist as you pull.You'll distort the screens a little, but you can mold them back into shape

with your fingers.

If

your screens are cemented

in

place by mineral deposits, you may not be able to remove them without

damage. A new pair of screens

will

cost about $5 at an appliance parts store. Clean the screens with

run-

i

ning water or blow out debris with

an air compressor. You may have to

pick

and scrape away stubborn

particles with a utility knife.

tip

cn..r

your washer suppty hoses, too. Some contain screens that can be removed and cteaned just tike inlet screens.

'l

turn off the hot and cotd water supplies and

I

disconnect the hoses. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to gently remove the screens for cleaning.

)

Wort<the clean screen back into the intet by pressing around the

Ir

rim of the screen with a small screwdriver. Reconnect the hoses,

turn on the water and check for leaks.

22

spEctAL sECTI0N: 10-MtNUTE PLUMBING FIxES

If your plumbing bangs and clangs like a

metal, you've got "water hammer." Water developt

momen-yffo

tum as it flows fast through pipes. When a valve closes quickly and stops the flow that momentum shakes and pounds pipes. Water hammer arresters cure this condi-tion with a cushion of air that absorbs the

SLIDING

PISION

momentum. Before you install

arresters, determine which faucets

Quiet

clanking pipes

or valves in your house cause the noise. Washing mac$ines

and{

dishwashers are prirge

_sgfo.glg

because

their

automatic close fast. Arresters for washing machines have screw-on

connec-tions, making them as easy to

as a garden hose, Other arresters connect directly

to ll2-in.

pipe, often under sinks.You usually have to cut pipes and add tees to install them. Check the packagitrg for installation details. Arresters cost a6out $10 each at home centers and hardware stores.

ARBESTER

WATER

MOMENTUM

attach

Fix

a

slow-running

faucet

If

the flow from your kitchen or bathroom faucet is weak, the aerator is probably plugged. An aerator can clog slowly

as mineral deposits build up, or quickly after plumbing work loosens debris inside pipes. Usually, a quick cleaning solves the problem. Remove the aerator (Photo

l)

and disas-semble it. You may need a small screwdriver or knife to pry the components apart. Scrub away any tough buildup with

an old toothbrush (Photo 2) and rinse each part thoroughly. Gunk can also build up inside the faucet neck, so ream it out with your finger and flush out the loosened debris.

If the mineral buildup resists scrubbing and you have a

standard cylinder-shaped aerator, you can replace

it

(about

$5). Take your old aerator along to the home center or hard-ware store to find a match. Ifyour aerator has a fancy shape

(like the one shown here), finding a match won t be as sim-ple. So

try

this

first:

Soak the aerator parts

in

vinegar overnight to soften mineral buildup. Ifthat doesrt't work, go

to any online search engine and type in the brand of your faucet followed by "faucet parts." With a little searching, you can find diagrams ofyour faucet and order a new aerator, E4pect to spend $10 or more for a nonstandard aerator.

rt

Wrap the jaws of a pair of

I

pliers with electricat tape and unscrew the aerator. Close

the stopper so the small parts can't fall down the drain.

trt

ID

@r:d

J

Oisassembte the aerator

L

and lay out the parts in the order you remove them to make reassembly foolproof.

Scrub the parts and reassemble

them.

A

trick for

splicing

in

plastic

_drainpipe

When working with plastic pipe, don't try to cement (solvent-weld) all the new couplings when replacing a section at a junction. Most drain systems use rigid pipes fairly large in diameter. You can't flex them enough to slide on that last

fit-ting and get it to seat fully. Rather than struggle with cement, pros use a "mis-sion" coupling (Photos 3 and 4) that clamps over the last joint. Even though a

mission coupling costs $5 to $10, compared with a 500 plastic coupling, the extra cost is worth it. Sometimes, pros will even use two mission couplings in tight situations. Photos 1

_-

4 walk you through the process. Be sure to buy cou-plings with

full

steel sleeves, and make sure mission couplings meet code requirements in your area.

'l

sry and assembte matching

I

replacement parts. Mark the cutting points on the old drains about 1/2 in. larger than the reptacement.

a

Cut the plastic at a right angte

G

using a fine-tooth saw and remove the assembly.

L

Center the mission coupting

rt

_{ouer the third} joint and tighten the bands firmly.

?

stia. the mission coupting

J

onto one pipe and cement plastic couptings onto the other two pipes.

Keep

your

washing

ffi1":-:':"::"n:,.9

between loads and only wash a couple of loads per week, you'll probabiy notice a

moldy smell after a few months. That's because the ultra-tight seal

on front

loader doors doesn't

let

the

interior dry,

and between washings,mold

can grow inside

the

damp confines.

And because

front

loaders use less water than top loaders (which

fill

up almost to the top), they don't always wash away the mold when you run a load oflaundry.

Eliminating the mold is easy. Just run

the empty washer through a cycle once a

month with a mold cleaner designed for front loaders, such as Affresh. Buy

it

at whirlpool.com ($7 for a pack ofthree) or find retailers at affresh.com. If you don't want to use the tablets, you can substitute

a cup ofbleach.

You can prevent mold by treating the washer monthly with a mold cleaner

or bleach and keeping the door open between washings so the

interior

can dry out.

26

Kitchen cabinet rolt-outs

31

Cookware organizer

32

Customize your kitchen cabinets

33

Instant

organizer Measuring cup hang-up Spice holder

34

Fix a drippy batt-type faucet

36

Make oLd windows

like

new

4A

Renew

tired-tooking

windows

47

Two-story ctoset shetves Ctoset nook shelves

42

How

to

stop a running

toilet

45

Easy-to-buil"d shoe storage

46

Laundry room improvement

47

Upgrade your recessed lights Test

for

lead

SPECIAL SECTI0N: Free

projects

48

Extend

the tife

of your water heater

49

Free a sticking storm door SeaI a drafty door

50

Fix a door [atch

that

won't

catch

5t

Prevent bathroom motd Stripped hinge screw

fix

52

Stop washing machine walk Doubte

the

Ufe

of

l:

ase cabinets have the least convenient storage space in the entire kitchen. To access it, you have to stooP way over or even get down on your knees and then sort through all the stuffin front to find that particular omelet pan or storage container in the back. What a pain. Roll-outs solve that problem. They make organizing and accessing your cabinet con-tents back-friendly and frustration free.

If you're stuck with cabinets without roll-outs, don't despair. The following pages show you how to retrofit nearly any base cab-inet with roll-outs that'll work as well or better than any factory-built units.

Building the roll-outs is really very easy. Once you take meas-urements, you can build the roll-out drawer (Photos 2

_-

6), its "carrier" (Photos 7

_-

9), and attach the drawer slides (Photos 6

and 7)

in

your garage or workshop. Mounting the unit

in

the cabinet is simple too (Photos 10

-

13). You'll also learn how to construct a special roll-out for recycling or trash (Photos 14

-

I 5).

26

PRoJEcrs $1 o ro $2b

The project will go faster if you have a table saw and a miter

saw to cut all the pieces. A circular saw and cutting guide will work too; it'll just take a little longer. You can build a pair of roll-outs in a Saturday morning for about $20 per shelf.

What wood

products to buy

These roll-out drawers are made entirely

of ll?-in.

Baltic birch plywood. Baltic birch is favored by cabinetmakers because it's "void free," meaning that the thin veneers of the plywood core are solid wood. Therefore sanded edges will look smooth and attrac-tive. If your home center doesn't stock Baltic birch, you can find

it

at any hardwood specialty store (look under "Hardwood Suppliers" in the yellow pages to find a source). Baltic birch may only come in 5 x 5-ft. sheets, so don't expect to fit it in a minivan. But home centers often carry smaller pieces.

If you choose, you can make the sides of the roll-out drawers from any

lx4

solid wood that matches your cabinets and then

I ! I I I I

finish them to match your cabinets (use ply-wood for the bases). But if you use 3/4-in. mate-rial for the sides, subtract 3 in. from the door opening to build the roll-out (not 2-112

in'

as

described in Photo 2).

The drawer carriers (Figure

A)

are made from pine 1x4s for the sides (Photo 7) and

ll4-in. MDF _{(medium density fiberboard) for} the bases (Photo 9). The MDF keeps the drawer

base spaced properly while you shim and attach

it

to the cabinet sides.

It

can be removed and reused for other carriers after installation.

If

MDF isn't available, substitute any other l/4-in. hardboard or plywood.

Side-mounted slides are the best choice among drawer

_{slide options. Their}

ball-bearing mechanisms and precise

fit

make for smooth-operating drawers that hold 90 lbs.

or more. These roll-outs feature 22-in.

full-extension KV brand side-mount drawer slides

that have _{a 90-lb. weight rating. That} means they'll be sturdy enough even for a drawer full

of canned goods. Full-extension slides allow the roll-out to extend completely past the cabinet front so you can access all the contents. Expect to pay about $6 to $15 per set ofslides at any home center or well-stocked hardware store.

Measure

carefully

before you

build

Nearly

all

standard base cabinets

are

23-ll4in. d,eep from the inside of the face frame to the back of the cabinet. So in most

cases,22-in.-long roll-out drawer and carrier sides

wili

clear the cabinet

with

room to spare. Check your cabinets to make sure that 22-in. roll-outs will work.

If

you _{have shallower cabinets,} sub-tract whatever is necessary when you build your roil-outs and their carriers (see Figure A).

Then measure the cabinet

width.

The drawer has to clear the narrowest part of the opening (Photo 1). When taking this measure-ment, include hinges that protrude

into

the opening, the edge of the door attached to the hinges, and even the doors that won't open completely because they hit nearby appliances

or other cabinets. Plan on making the drawer front and rear _{parts 2-l12 in. shorter than the} opening (Figure _A).

Drawers

with 3-l12-in.-high

sides are shown here, but you can customize your own. Plan on higher sides

for

lightweighr plastic storage _{containers or other tall or tippy} items, and lower sides for stable, heavier items like small appliances.

LENGTH: OPENING MINUS Z-tl2"

WIDTH:3-1l2" SIDE 3-112" x22"

'l

open the

I

cabinet doors to their widest point and measure the narrowest part of the cabinet opening (usually at the hinges). ROLL.OUTS 27 314" x3-112" x22"

Figure

B

3/4" x3-112" x22" ,:r'i _;i:i !: : Carrier assembly +', f. i,l'.

I

I Drawer assembly all 1/2" plywood SIDE 3-112" x22" 114" MDF KITCHEN CABINEI

A

nip 1/2-in. plywood down to 3-1/2-in.-wide strips and cut

L

two 22-in. tengths (drawer sides) and two more to the

measured width (from Photo 1) minus

2-t/2 in.

(drawer front and back; Figure A).

Q

CUrp or screw two straight l2-in.2x4s to the corner of a

J

ftat surface to use as an assembly

jig.

Use a carpente/s

square to ensure squareness. Leave a 2-in. gap at the corner.

L

spread wood glue on the ends and clamp a drawer side

A]

_{.iO front in p-lace, then pin the corner together with three}

l-714-in. brads. Repeat for the other three corners.

Drawer

slides

aren't

as

confusing

astheyseem

At first glance, drawer slides are pretty hard to figure out, but after you install one set, youll be an expert. They're sold in pairs and each ofthe pairs has trvo parts. The "drawer part" attaches to the roll-out while the "cabinet part" attaches to the carrier. To separate

them for mounting, slide them out to full length and then push,

pull or depress a plastic release to separate the two parts. The

release button position and shape vary among manufacturers, but

ifyou

look at the directions, youll be able to figure

it

out. The cabinet part, which always encloses the drawer part, is the larger of the two, and the mounting screw hole locations will be shown

in

the directions. (Screws are included with the drawer slides.) The oversized holes allow for some adjustment, but if you follow the instructions, you shouldn't have to fuss with fine-tuning later.

28

PROJECTS $1 o ro $25

f,

Cut a

t/2-in.

plywood bottom to size. Appty a thin bead of

J

gtue to the bottom edges, and nail one edge of the plywood flush with a side, spacing nails every 4 in. Then push the frame against the jig to sguare

it

and nait the other three edges.

When mounting the slides, make sure to hold them flush with the

front

ofthe

roll-out drawer and carrier sides (Photos 6 andT). The front of the drawer part usually has a bent metal stop that

faces the front ofthe drawer.

Assembling

parts

and

finishing the

roll-outs

It's important to build the roll-out drawers perfectly square for them to operate properly. Photos 3 and 4 show a simple squaring jig that you can clamp to a corner of any workbench to help. Use

the jig to nail the frame together, but even more important, to hold the frame square when you nail on the bottom panel.

If

it

hangs over the sides even a

little,

the drawer slides won't work smoothly.

f,

Separate the drawer stides and space the drawer part

V

7/4 in. up from the bottom. Hold

it

fl.ush to the front and screw

it

to the rott-out side.

Q

Stia" the drawer and carrier sides together and measure the

t/

carrier width. Cut 7/4-in. MDF to that width and 1 in. less

than the carrier depth (usually 21 in.).

parts together but not the bottom ofthe carrier. It only serves as a

temporary spacer for mounting. (After mounting the carrier and drawer, you can remove

it

if it

catches items on underlying drawers or even reuse it for other carriers.) Ifyou'd like to finish the roll-out for a richer look and easier cleaning, sand the edges

with 120-grit paper and apply a couple of coats of water-based pollurethane before mounting the slides.

To figure the spacer thickness, rest the lower carrier on the bottom of the shelf, push

it

against one side of the cabinet and measure the gap on the other (Photo l0). Rip spacers to halfthat

measurement and cut six of them to 3-112 in. long. Slip the spac-ers between both sides of the carrier to check the fit. They should slide in snugly but not tightly. Recut new spacers if you have to. In out-of-square cabinets, you may have to custom-cut spacers for

each ofthe three pairs ofspacers, so check each ofthe three spacer

Mount the carrier part of the drawer slide ftush with the bottom and front of the carrier sides.

Q

nest the carrier assembly on 3/4-in.-thick spacers, puI the

J

carrier sides slightly away from the drawer, then nail on

the carrier bottom (no glue).

positions. It's easiest to tack the spacers to the roll-outs to hold them in place before predrilling

l/8-in.

holes and running the screws through the roll-out frames and spacers and into the cabi-net sides (Photo i t _).

Slip the roll-out into its carrier and check for smooth

opera-tion.

If

you followed the process,

it

should work perfectly.

If it

binds, it's probably because the spacers are too wide or narrow Pull out the carrier, remove the spacers and start the spacer process all over again.

The best way to level and fasten the upper roll-out is to sup-port

it

on temporary plywood spacers (Photo 12). The height of the spacers is up to you. If, for example, you want to store tall

boxes of cereal on the bottom roll-out and shorter items on the top, space the top roll-out higher. You can even build and install three or more roll-outs in one cabinet for mega storage of short

7

'l fl

n"tou.

the drawer, tip the carrier into the cabinet and

IV

pustr the carrier against one side. Measure the gap and

rip six 3-l/2-in.-[ong spacers to half of the thickness.

{ el

lait

the spacers to the center and each end of the

I I

carrier sides (not into the cabineti see inset photo). Then predrill and screw the carrier sides to the cabinet in the center of each spacer. Stide the drawer back into place.

4 a

Cut ptywood spacers to temporarity support the upper

I 4

rott-out and set them onto the carrier below. Rest

the second carrier on the spacers and instatl

it

as shown in Photo 11.

items like cans, cutlery or beverages. (Those now-obsolete shelves

you're replacing with roll-outs are good stock to use for your

spacers.) Again, pin the spacers in place with a brad or two to hold them while you're predrilling and screwing the carriers to the cab-inet sides. Be sure to select screw lengths that won't Penetrate exposed cabinet sides! In most cases, 1-5/8-in. screws are the best choice. Strive for 1/2-in. penetration into the cabinet sides. Coun-tersink the heads as far as necessary to get the proper penetration.

Building

wastebasket

rol

l-outs

Wastebasket roll-outs are just upside-down versions of standard roll-outs. That is, the carrier is mounted on the top rather than the bottom of the roll-out and the slides are positioned at the bottom edge ofthe carrier sides. That lets the wastebasket lip clear the MDF. Follow Figure B on p. 27 for the details.

30

PRoJEcrs $1 o ro $2s

{ Q

euifU an upside-down version of the carrier and

rott-*rJ

outs for the wastebasket drawer (Figure B). Center and trace around the rim of the wastebasket(s). Use a compass to mark the opening 1/2 in. smaller.

This wastebasket

roil-out

is

built

inside an 18-in.-wide cabinet, to fit two plastic containers back to back. Ifyou only have a 15-in. cabinet to work with, you may be limited to one container mounted sideways. Buy your containers ahead of time to

fit

your opening.

With some wastebasket roll-outs, you may need to knock the MDF free from the carriers after mounting so the wastebasket lips will clear. That's OK; it won't affect operation.

It

may not always work to center roll-out assemblies

in

all openings with equal spacers on each side. That's especially true with narrow single cabinets that only have one pair ofhinges. It's

best to test things before permanent mounting. But if you make a

mistake, it's a simple matter to unscrew the assembly, adjust the spacers and remount everything.

cabinets with center dividers

Many

two-door cabinets

have a

center

divider (photo abovel, which cat[s

for

a stightty different strategy. You can stitt buitd rolt-outs, but they'1.1. be

narrower versions

on each

side

of

the

divider. [Check

to

be sure they

won't

be so narrow that they're impracticat.) The key is to instatI a

3/4-in. _{ptywood, particl.eboard or}

MDF panel. between the

center

_l

I4:;:;:::.-in'

startins hores and cut the openings with

Cookware

organizer

Most kitchen base cabinets lack vertical storage space for big, flat cookware like cookie sheets and, pizza pans. To provide it, just remove the lower shelf, cut a vertical panel ofplywood and fasten

it

at the cabinet bottom with furniture

braces and at the top with a strip of wood.

Drill

holes for the adjusting pins to match the origi-nal locations and trim the shelfto length.

iJ:ffi :t1[T1?;::j

"'*

/,,

_*t

ffi{#{l#/ffi

to support the top ro[t-out position. Center the pane[ on

the

back side and middLe of

the

divider and screw

it

into p[ace with

1-in.

ang[e

brackets

[they're

completety out of sight). Use a

carpen-ter's square to position the panet perfectty centered and verticaI on the cabinet back and anchor it there, again using ang[e brackets. Measure, buitd and insta[t the rotl-outs as shown.

Building

roll-outs

in

'l f

fUount the wastebasket carrier and drawer as shown in

Irf

Photos 10 and 11.

Customize

your

kitchen

cabinets

you have a short cabinet flanked by two taller cabinets, you can

add

this

combination shelf/ wine rack.

Cut the shelf

to

length, then add mounting strips on each end. Cut four 9-in. sections of wine glass molding from a 3-ft. length, then glue and nail them to the bottom of the pine shelf. Wine glass molding is available from Rockler (rockler.com, item No. 22210). A 24-in. length costs $13. Cut curved brackets from each end bf a lx6 maple board and cut the center 1 in. wide to serve as shelf edging. Finally, install the unit by driving

screws through the mounting strips and into the cabinets on each side.

To display your plates and keep them

accessible and chip-free, build and install this plate rack. The total cost of materials is about$15.

To create the two plate rack "ladders," measure the cabinet, then build each lad-der so the finished height equals the height of the inside of the cabinet. The finished

width

should be equal to the width of the face frame opening.

Drill

3/8-in. holes, 3/8 in. deep in 3/4-in. x 3/4-in.

32

PRoJEcrs $10 ro $2s

Buitd a shelf to

fit

snugly between adjacent cabinets. Use a jigsaw to create curved brackets, nail wine glass brackets to the bottom of the shelf, then instatt the entire unit as one piece.

Cut, assemble and install the two plate rack "tadders." Use short screws to secure the tadders in the cabinet opening. Set the rear ladder 4 in. away from the back of the cabinet and the front ladder snug against the back of the face frame.

square dowels and space them

every

A drill press comes in handy, but you 1-112 in. Cut the dowels to length,

add

can also get good results using a cordless

a drop

of

glue

in

each hole, insert

the

drill, a steady hand and a 3/8-in. drill bit

dowels, then use elastic cords or clamps

to

with masking tape wrapped around it as a

hold things together until the glue

dries.

depth guide for the holes in the rails.

lnstant

_organizer

Y';:;T[::l

j:.':

t*Tfi:::]:',

6

length with a hacksaw e

screws to the back side o

hold the racks in place. The back side of the rack simply rests against the back of the cabinet. Now you can easily find your soup and check the rest

of

your inventory at a glance.

Measuring cup

L:*:,:f,n.*@

ing measuring cups inside a kitchen cabinet. Position and mount a wood strip so that the cups

will

hang between the shelves _{and allow the door} to close com-pletely.

Mount

a second

strip for

your

measuring spoons, then screw in cup hooks on both strips.

Spice

holder

If

your

spices

are jammed into a drawer

with

only the

tops visible, this nifty rack that slips neatly into the drawer

will

solve

the problem.

And

it

only

takes an

hour

to build. Make it wirh l/4-in. and l/2-in.plywood.

Fix

a

drippy

ball-type.r

faucet

hen your single-lever, ball-tlpe faucet starts dripping,

it's time to

replace the parts inside. You'll know you have a

ball-type faucet (vs. a cartridge type)

if

it

has a dome-shape cap under the handle (Figure A).

This

is an easy repair. Once you have the parts, the whole thing will take about 45 minutes and you'll save a whopping $ 125 doing it yourself)

Everything you need is available in a repair

kit

($15 at home centers). Most kits include the ball, springs, seats, O-rings and an Allen wrench.

You'll

also need

to pick up

faucet

grease ($2). There are several different models and types of ball-style faucets,

so

first

follow these instructions to take apart your faucet. Then note the brand and take the old faucet parts along to the store to make sure you buy the right repair kit.

Before you disassemble your old faucet, turn off the water at the fixture shutoff valves under the sink or your home's main water valve if the individ-ual shutoffs are missing (now is a good time to install some!). Cover the sink drain hole with a rag to avoid losing small parts down the drain.

The only tricky part ofthis repair is

first locating and then loosening the

Allen

setscrew (see

Photo

1) that anchors the handle to the stem. The screw is typically hidden under the decorative cover.

If

the faucet is old,

31

PROJEcTS $1 o ro s25

you'll have to use some force with the Allen wrench to loosen the screw.

Your repair kit may include two dif-ferent versions of the same part, one

for

newer and one

for

older-model faucets. Use the same version as the existing parts. Most repair kits come with a hollow stainless steel ball. This will work well and last longer than the original plastic ball you might find

if

yours is an older faucet.

Ifyour

faucet

uses an older-style, two-part cam-the plastic cam and a separate cam

seal-and your kit comes with only the newer combined version (see Photo 2), go ahead and use the combined version. ]ust make sure to discard the existing adjusting ring located

in

the cap

of

your faucet or the handle won't

fit

correctly when you reassemble it.

'l

r-ltt the handte, pry off the decorative

I

couer with your fingernail or a ftat-blade screwdriver, then loosen the A[ten screw underneath and

lift

the handte free.

@b

33

S,,A

&d

i. j _.

1.

0Ld-style cam and seaI

2.

Combination cam and seal

3.

StainLess steel

bal.L

I

Figure A

CAPWITH ADJUSTING

RING

COMBINATION

CAM AND SEAL

DLE

",7-.".P"_ _/ HANDLE

ry"64:

#

c'rfiilTi€b

DECORATIVE SCREW COVER SPRAYER DIVERTER

]

Unr.r.*

the cap under the handle

G

and

lift

out the cam seal. Make sure

to line up the tab on the cam seal with the slot on the faucet body when reassembling.

Q rit

out the batt. When you put the

r/

faucet back together, line up the long slot on _{the side of the ball with the} pin inside the faucet body.

sEArs

_{C g}

r: l: sPRrNGs

_g

_I

v\.,.

-c#

/.

R.rou" both sets of seats and

rt

_{springs. When you reassemble the}

faucet using newer-style springs, guide the seats and springs into the hole with the narrow end of the spring facing up (see Figure A).

f

Wlggte the spout free and remove

J

it,

and then slip out the O-rings. Pick matching sized O-rings from the kit,

coat them with faucet grease and slide them on. Reassemble the faucet by fot-lowing the disassembly steps in reverse.

Makeold

wlndows

like

new

you're thinking about replacing your casement windows because they're drafty, fogged up or just hard to open, consider this: You can fix most of the problems yourself for a fraction of the cost of new

windows-and

it

won't take you more than an hour or two per window.

The following pages walk you through the fixes for the most common casement window problems. (Casement windows are the tlpe that swing like doors.)You won't need any specialty tools, and the materials are available from most window manufacturers or online window

sup-ply companies (see the Buyer's Guide, p. 37). Unless you need to replace the sash, the fixes cost less than $25.

Although your windows may look different from the ones shown here, the techniques for removing the sash and fixing problems are similar.

.J:.:-If

you

turn

your window handle and nothing happens, the gears on your handle, crank operator

shaft or both are probably stripped. Take off the handle and look for signs ofwear. Ifthe teeth are worn, replace the han-dle (prices start at $5; see the Buyer's Guide, p. 37).

If

the shaft is worn, you can replace the whole operator (see the next fix). But here's a home remedy to try first.

Start by backing out the setscrew to remove the handle (some newer handles don't have setscrews and simply pull

off-and

this fix won't work). If you have a fold-ing handle, mark where the setscrew is on the operator shaft when the window is closed and the handie is folded up. Remove the handle and file the shaft so the setscrew

;,

can lock onto the shaft (photo above

right).

The metal is tough;

it'll

take about 15 minutes to get a

Fite a flat spot on the operator shaft, then insert a longer setscrew into the handle. The flat side lets the setscrew

lock onto the shaft.

flat side. Or use a rotary tool with a grinder bit to speed up the job. Vacuum the shavings out of the operator so they won't harm the moving parts.

Reattach the handle with a longer setscrew (354 at hard-ware stores). Ifyou open and close the window a lot, this fix may not hold up in the long run.

SETSCREW

v