v
Contents
List of Maps xi About the Authors xii
Introduction
1
The Most American of American Cities 1 About This Guide 3
Why “Unofficial”? 3 Creating a Guidebook 3
How the Unofficial Guides Are Different 4 Special Features 4
How This Guide Was Researched and Written 5 Letters, Comments, and Questions from Readers 6 How Information Is Organized: By Subject and by
Geographic Zones 6
Part One
Understanding the City
29
A Brief History of Chicago 29 Beginnings 29
First Settlers and a Massacre 30 Boom . . . 31
. . . and Bust 31
A Transportation Hub 32
Innovative Marketing and a Presidential Nomination 32 Industrial Might 33
The Great Chicago Fire of 1871 33 Labor Troubles 34
The Roaring Twenties 34
Another Depression . . . and Another Fair 35 The Second World War 35
A New Era 35
Post-Industrial Chicago 36 “A Real City” 36
Skyscrapers and the Prairie School: Chicago Architecture 37
A Bovine Beginning 37 The Chicago School 37 Classical Designs by the Lake 40 The Prairie School 40
1920s Prosperity and Art Deco 40 The International Style 41 Postmodernism 41 Scraping the Sky 42 An Outdoor Museum 42 Sculpture in the Loop 43
Part Two
Planning Your Visit to Chicago
45
When to Go: Seasons of the Windy City 45 Four Distinct Seasons 45
A Calendar of Festivals and Events 46–53 Avoiding Crowds 48
How to Get More Information on Chicago before Your Visit 50 Getting to Chicago 52
Flying 52
Taking the Train 52 Driving 53
Part Three
Hotels
55
Deciding Where to Stay 55 Some Considerations 56 Getting a Good Deal on a Room 56
Special Weekend Rates 56 Getting Corporate Rates 56 Half-Price Programs 57 Preferred Rates 58
Wholesalers, Consolidators, and Reservation Services 58 Alternative Lodging 59
How to Evaluate a Travel Package 59 Helping Your Travel Agent Help You 60 If You Make Your Own Reservation 61 Chicago Lodging for Business Travelers 61
Lodging Convenient to McCormick Place 62
Convention Rates: How They Work and How to Do Better 62 Chicago Hotels Rated and Ranked 64
What’s in a Room? 64 Hotel Ratings 67
How the Hotels Compare 68 How the Hotels Compare 69–72 Chicago Hotels by Zone 72–76 The Top 30 Hotel Deals in Chicago 76 Hotel Information Chart 78–87
vi Contents
Part Four
Visiting Chicago on Business
89
Convention Central, U.S.A. 89
Convention and Trade Show Calendar 90–91 Other Business Visitors 90
How the Unofficial Guide Can Help 91 Convention Overload 92
McCormick Place Convention Center 92 It’s Big . . . 92
. . . and It Has Its Drawbacks 92 The Layout 94
Parking at McCormick Place 97 Exhibitor Move-In and Move-Out 98 Getting to and from McCormick Place 98 Getting to and from the Airport 99 Lunch Alternatives at McCormick Place 99 Navy Pier 99
Navy Pier Convention Facilities 100 Donald E. Stephens Convention Center 100
Part Five
Arriving and Getting Oriented
103
Coming into Chicago by Car 103 Coming into Chicago by Plane 104
O’Hare International Airport 104 Midway Airport 110
Coming into Chicago by Train 111 Getting Oriented 111
A Geography Lesson 112 Chicago’s Layout 112 The Major Highways 114
Finding Your Way around Chicago 115
Where to Find Tourist Information in Chicago 115 Things the Natives Already Know 116
Chicago Customs and Protocol 116 Publications for Visitors 118 Chicago on the Air 118 Access for the Disabled 118 Time Zone 120
Phones 120
Liquor, Taxes, and Smoking 120 Crime in Chicago 120
Part Six
Getting around Chicago
123
Driving Your Car: A Really Bad Idea 123 Time of Day 123
Parking 123
Insider Tips for Drivers 124 Subterranean Chicago 124
Public Transportation 125 The CTA 125 The El 125 Buses 127 Taxis 128 Walking in Chicago 129 Pedways 129
Part Seven
Sightseeing,Tours, and Attractions
131
Touring Chicago 131
Taking an Orientation Tour 131 Architecture and Boat Tours 133 Specialized Tours 135
Carriage Rides 136
Touring on Your Own: Our Favorite Itineraries 137 Exploring Chicago’s Neighborhoods 139
Andersonville (Zone 1) 139 Devon Avenue (Zone 1) 140 Uptown (Zone 1) 140 Lincoln Square (Zone 1) 141 Lakeview/Wrigleyville (Zone 1) 142 Milwaukee Avenue (Zone 2) 142 Wicker Park and Bucktown (Zone 2) 143 Gold Coast and Old Town (Zone 3) 144 Chinatown (Zone 5) 144
Taylor Street (Zone 6) 145 Pilsen/Little Village (Zone 6) 146 Bridgeport (Zone 6) 147
Hyde Park/Kenwood (Zone 7) 148 South Shore (Zone 7) 149
Other Neighborhoods of Interest 149 Final Note 152
Chicago for Children 152
More Things to Do with Children 152
Pro Sports and a Really Big Amusement Park 153 Helpful Hints for Visitors 153
How to Get into Museums for Half Price 153 When Admission Is Free 154
Scenic Car Drives 154 Great Views 155 Getting into “Oprah” 156 Chicago Attractions 157
Attractions by Type and Zone 157 Attraction Profiles 160
Part Eight
Dining and Restaurants 195
Dining in Chicago 195
Small-Plate Cuisine Hits Its Stride 195 viii Contents
New and Changing Restaurants 196–197 Upscale Hotel Restaurants 198
Sushi Abounds 198 Back to American Roots 199 Ethnic Diversity Gets a Makeover 199 Lincoln Square: The New Restaurant Row 199 Restaurants: Rated and Ranked 200
Our Favorite Chicago Restaurants: Explaining the Ratings 200 Our Pick of the Best Chicago Restaurants 201
The Best Chicago Restaurants 201–205 Chicago Restaurants by Zone 205–208 More Recommendations 208
Restaurant Profiles 213
Part Nine
Shopping in Chicago
269
Nothing Like It Back Home 269 The Where of It 269 The How of It 271
Michigan Avenue: The Miracle Mile 271 Michigan Avenue’s Grand Malls 273 East of Michigan 277
The Landmark Department Stores of the Loop 277 Marshall Field’s 278
Carson Pirie Scott 280 Where to Find . . . 281
Art and Fine Crafts 281 Baby Furniture 285 Beauty Items 286 Bikes and Skateboards 288 Boats, Yachts, and Sailing Craft 288 Books, Cards, and Stationery 289 Cameras 291
Canoes and Kayaks 291 Clothing and Shoes 292
Clothing and Shoes Discount Outlets 304 Crystal, China, and Kitchen Items 305 Florists 306
Food and Wine 307 Formalwear 310 Furs 310
Garden and Landscaping 311
Home Furnishings, Linens, and Bath Supplies 311 Jewelry 318
Luggage 320
Marine Specialty Items 321
Musical Instruments and Recorded Music 321 Oriental Rugs 322
Outdoor Gear 322
Tobacco 323
Toys, Games, Clothes, and Gifts for Children 324 Western Wear 324
Suburban Shopping Centers, Discount Malls, and Shops 325
Part Ten
Exercise and Recreation
329
Handling Chicago’s Weather 329 Indoor Activities 329
Free Weights and Exercise Machines 329 Exercising in Your Hotel 330
Outdoor Activities 330 Walking 330 Running 332 Tennis 332 Golf 333
Road Bicycling and In-Line Skating 334 Mountain Biking 335 Swimming 336 Paddling 336 Windsurfing 337 Ice Skating 337 Downhill Skiing 338 Cross-Country Skiing 338 Spectator Sports 338 A Sports-Crazy Town 338 Pro Teams 339 College Sports 341 Horse Racing 341
Off-Track Betting and Riverboat Casinos 341
Part Eleven
Entertainment and Nightlife
343
Chicago after Dark 343 Live Entertainment 344
Live Rock 344 Jazz 347
Country and Western 347 Live Blues 348
Comedy/Interactive Theater 350 Dance Clubs 350
Lookin’ for Love 352 Legitimate Theater 354 The Classics 357 Nightclub Profiles 359 Restaurant Index 371 Nightclub Index 375 Subject Index 377 x Contents 02_575589_ftoc.qxd 2/11/05 12:42 PM Page x
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List of Maps
Chicago and the Midwest 2 Chicago Touring Zones 8–9 Zone 1––North Side 10–11
Zone 2––North Central/O’Hare 12–13 Zone 3––Near North 14–15
Zone 4––The Loop 16–17 Zone 5––South Loop 18–19 Zone 6––South Central/Midway 20 Zone 7––South Side 21
Zone 8––Southern Suburbs 22–23 Zone 9––Western Suburbs 24–25 Zone 10––Northwest Suburbs 26–27 Zone 11––Northern Suburbs 28 Chicago Architecture 38–39 Sculpture in the Loop 44
McCormick Convention Center 93 McCormick Convention Center:
Understanding the Numbering System 95 Donald E. Stephens Convention Center 101 O’Hare International Airport 105
Midway Airport 109
