Handbook of Watch and Clock Repairs

H. G. H A R R I S

Handbook

of

Watch

and

Clock

Repairs

ALL R I G H T S R E S E R V E D LIBRARY OF C O N G R E S S C A T A L O G C A R D N U M B E R : 6 3 - 9 7 4 7 M A N U F A C T U R E D I N T H E U N I T E D S T A T E S O F A M E R I C A F I R S T P R I N T I N G , 1 9 6 3 S E C O N D P R I N T I N G , 1 9 6 4 T H I R D P R I N T I N G , 1966 F O U R T H P R I N T I N G , 1967 F I F T H P R I N T I N G , 1968 S I X T H P R I N T I N G , 1969 REVISED EDITION, 1972

Preface 7 Part One: G E N E R A L 1 W o r k b e n c h a n d tools 9 2 Materials 21 3 T h e t u r n s a n d their uses 23 Part Two: W A T C H E S 4 T h e m o v e m e n t 29 5 Overhauling a n d cleaning 35 6 Wheel trains 57 7 H a n d s , dial a n d m o t i o n w o r k 60 8 Keyless w o r k 66 9 Barrels, mainsprings a n d fusee chains 71

10 E s c a p e m e n t s 79 11 Balances 93 12 Shock proofing 103 13 Cases 109 14 Magnetism 113 Part Three: C L O C K S 15 T h e m o v e m e n t 116 16 P e n d u l u m clocks 119 17 Striking clocks 128

Contents

18 Chiming clocks 132 19 Grandfather clocks 136 20 Carriage clocks 142 21 Cuckoo clocks 149 22 French clocks 156 23 Alarm clocks 159 24 Electric clocks 167

Appendix: Mail ordering 170

Preface

T H E R E h a v e been m a n y b o o k s w r i t t e n o n the repair o f watches a n d clocks b u t the majority h a v e been intended for t h e serious horologist a n d the a p p r e n t i c e .

Little h a s b e e n d o n e to publicize horology as a h o b b y . M a n y will say t h a t to do such a thing is inadvisable w i t h o u t p r o p e r training. B u t w h a t o f the present-day hobbyists w h o a r e self-taught a n d whose interest in their subject is such t h a t their knowledge a n d skill often surpass those whose full-time o c c u p a t i o n it i s ?

I have k n o w n m e n w h o , since their y o u t h , h a v e been interested i n r a d i o . T h e i r k n o w l e d g e a n d skill t o d a y a r e extensive a n d a l t h o u g h n o t qualified in the official sense, nevertheless they h a v e b e c o m e authorities on their subject. Similar r e m a r k s can be directed t o w a r d s o t h e r o c c u p a t i o n s , a n d so it is with w a t c h a n d clock repairing.

I n writing this b o o k , I h a v e a s s u m e d t h a t t h e r e a d e r h a s n o k n o w l e d g e of the subject a n d I h a v e e n d e a v o u r e d , therefore, to c o n c e n t r a t e o n the basic principles r a t h e r t h a n a d v a n c e d w o r k . A n a t t e m p t h a s also been m a d e t o show the beginner t h a t quite a lot of practical w o r k can be d o n e with limited e q u i p m e n t a n d a small initial outlay.

In the c o u r s e of overhauling a m o v e m e n t the beginner will frequently be confronted with a j o b beyond his ability a n d which requires t h e use of e q u i p m e n t n o t in his possession. T h e a p p e n d i x a t t h e b a c k o f t h e b o o k will guide t h e r e a d e r o n h o w t o g o a b o u t sending w o r k to an outside repairer. Once h a v i n g established a c o n t a c t , n o j o b s h o u l d b e t o o big o r t o o difficult t o tackle.

A little practice at h o m e dismantling a n d assembling s o m e old m o v e m e n t s will quickly i n t r o d u c e confidence a n d p r o v i d e the r e a d e r w i t h t h e light t o u c h necessary when w o r k i n g o n watches.

Appreciation a n d t h a n k s are extended t o Messrs P a r e c h o c S.A., Le Sentier, Switzerland (manufacturers of the Kif Flector), T h e Universal E s c a p e m e n t Ltd., L a C h a u x - d e - F o n d s , Switzer-l a n d (manufacturers of the IncabSwitzer-loc), a n d to E r i s m a n n Schinz L t d . , Le Neuveville, Switzerland (manufacturers of the M o n o r e x ) for supplying me with detailed information a n d drawings of their shock a b s o r b e r s .

A special w o r d of t h a n k s is given to Messrs B a u m e & C o . L t d , 5 0 H a t t o n G a r d e n , L o n d o n (Longine watches) a n d Smiths Clocks & W a t c h e s L t d , Sectric H o u s e , Cricklewood, L o n d o n , b o t h of w h o m h a v e been m o s t helpful in supplying information a n d d r a w i n g s .

It is w o r t h y of n o t e here t h a t in my a p p r o a c h to the industry, I found an unexpected e n t h u s i a s m to help w h e n it was k n o w n t h a t the b o o k was to be a h o b b y b o o k r a t h e r t h a n a t e x t b o o k . It w a s considered t h a t such a b o o k w a s b a d l y needed a n d all c o n c e r n e d wished it every success.

Last, b u t b y n o m e a n s least, m y special t h a n k s g o t o M r S . Pleasants w h o h a s d o n e s o m u c h i n p r o d u c i n g original d r a w i n g s a n d p r e p a r i n g illustrations for publication, frequently, I might a d d , having to alter t h e m as a result of a c h a n g e in the original m a n u s c r i p t . F o r h i m it was a n i g h t m a r e gallop keeping p a c e with t h e typewriter keys.

Part One

G E N E R A L

C H A P T E R O N E

Workbench and tools

W A T C H E S a n d clocks c a n b e overhauled a n d simple repairs carried o u t w i t h o u t t h e n e e d o f a n elaborately e q u i p p e d w o r k -s h o p . To begin with, a -small rigid table with a d e q u a t e lighting will provide the w o r k b e n c h , a n d t h e tools c a n be limited initially to a selected few to cover general w o r k . M o r e specialized tools c a n be o b t a i n e d later if a n d w h e n t h e need arises.

H o w e v e r , it is the i n t e n t i o n h e r e to describe typical w o r k s h o p conditions a n d then leave y o u free to modify these a r r a n g e m e n t s to suit y o u r r e q u i r e m e n t s .

A w o r k b e n c h is required, or alternatively a shelf firmly secured to a wall.

T h e w o r k i n g surface of t h e b e n c h should be at least 3 ft. from the g r o u n d (Fig. 1). T h i s will enable close w o r k to be carried o u t w i t h o u t b e n d i n g low, resulting in greater comfort a n d increased c o n t r o l . T h e length of the bench t o p needs to be a b o u t 3 ft. 6 in. t o p e r m i t w o r k i n g w i t h b o t h e l b o w s s p r e a d o u t . T h e w i d t h s h o u l d be between 18 a n d 20 in. to allow space b e h i n d t h e w o r k in h a n d for small tools a n d accessories in use.

Strips of w o o d a b o u t 2 1/2 in. wide placed on edge on the t o p of t h e b e n c h a l o n g the t w o e n d s a n d a l o n g the b a c k p r e v e n t items being k n o c k e d t o the f l o o r .

A few d r a w e r s built u n d e r the t o p for storage of w o r k , tools, materials, etc., completes t h e b e n c h .

It is essential t h a t all w o r k be c o n d u c t e d a w a y from dirt or d u s t 9

because the smallest piece of foreign m a t t e r in a watch c a n cause t h e m o v e m e n t t o stop, a n d dust will s o a k u p t h e oil a n d cause t h e m o v e m e n t t o dry out.

Sometimes it is quicker a n d c h e a p e r to secure a shelf to a wall. A strong, well m a d e shelf securely fitted is m u c h preferred by m a n y repairers.

Preferably the bench should be situated against a w i n d o w facing n o r t h . T h e reflected light o b t a i n e d is softer a n d m o r e suited to this type of w o r k .

If an adjustable electric l a m p is m o u n t e d on the b e n c h t o p or secured to the wall in the case of a shelf, the l a m p can be pulled d o w n close to t h e w o r k a n d there should be no fear of eye strain. H a v i n g provided the w o r k b e n c h a n d t h e lighting, attention

m u s t n o w be given to tools. T h e following list is a guide to the tools t h a t need t o b e o b t a i n e d t o start with a n d t o those t h a t can be p u r c h a s e d w h e n a little m o r e experience h a s been gained a n d the range of w o r k being u n d e r t a k e n h a s been widened.

I N I T I A L T O O L K I T 1 pair flat-nose pliers 4 in.

1 screwdriver 7 in. 1 set watch screwdrivers 1 eye-glass 2-in. focus 1 pair fine tweezers 1 pair heavy tweezers 2 oilers

1 oil c u p (watch oil) 1 oil c u p (clock oil)

2 pairs h a n d r e m o v i n g levers 1 pith holder

2 cleaning brushes (medium a n d soft) 1 pin-vice 1 oilstone, fine/medium handles b r o a c h e s rat-tail files

pillar files - fine, m e d i u m a n d coarse - 4 a n d 6 in. 1 vice, 2\ to 3-in. j a w s 1 w a t c h m a k e r ' s h a m m e r

S U P P L E M E N T A R Y T O O L K I T 1 pair r o u n d - n o s e pliers 4 in.

1 p a i r snipe-nose pliers 4 in. 1 pair brass-faced flat-nose

pliers 4 in.

1 pair top-cutting nippers 4 in. 1 screwdriver 12 in.

1 d o u b l e lens eye-glass 1/4-in. focus

1 eye-glass 3-in. focus

1 round-face h a m m e r 1 brass-faced h a m m e r 1 w a t c h m a k e r ' s spirit l a m p 1 blueing p a n 1 g r a d u a t e d steel stake 1 flat b u r n i s h e r glass d u s t covers 1 p a i r t u r n s with accessories 2 clock spring c l a m p s

T o o m u c h e m p h a s i s c a n n o t b e placed o n t h e need t o b u y good quality tools. It is better to start with a few good ones a n d slowly build up a kit, t h a n to b u y p o o r quality tools t h a t m u s t inevitably lead to repair w o r k of a low s t a n d a r d . M a k e y o u r p u r c h a s e s from firms w h o specialize in this e q u i p m e n t a n d w h o t h o r o u g h l y u n d e r s t a n d y o u r r e q u i r e m e n t s .

T h e application of special tools will be dealt with in the a p p r o p r i a t e c h a p t e r s , b u t a few hints on the use a n d m a i n t e n a n c e of the m o r e c o m m o n ones may prove helpful at this stage.

Files. T h e t w o m o s t useful types of file for watch a n d clock

r e p a i r i n g are pillar files a n d rat-tail files (Fig. 2). Useful sizes are 4 in. a n d 6 in. in coarse, m e d i u m a n d fine c u t s .

Fig. 2. Files, (a) Pillar (b) Rat-tail.

Files a r e c u t t i n g tools a n d m u s t be treated as such. T h e teeth a r e s h a p e d like those of a saw a n d consequently c u t in o n e direction only.

Soft metals such as brass need new files b u t steels c a n be cut better with a p a r t w o r n file where the tips of the teeth h a v e been w o r n d o w n . It follows then t h a t new files c o m m e n c e their life by being used for brass a n d are then passed over for use on steels.

It is sometimes m o r e economical to use a double-sided file such as a pillar file, for b o t h metals, in which case the side used for b r a s s is m a r k e d by passing a piece of white chalk across the teeth. It is essential t h a t y o u are able to file accurately a n d therefore a little practice m a y prove w o r t h while.

Place a piece of brass r o d horizontally in the vice. H o l d the pillar file by the h a n d l e in the right h a n d . Place the file on the b r a s s a n d place the forefinger a n d t h u m b of the left h a n d on the e n d of the file.

A forward stroke is n o w m a d e with j u s t sufficient d o w n w a r d pressure for t h e file teeth to c u t the metal.

A flat surface c a n best be o b t a i n e d by keeping the file h o r i -zontal. To do this the stroke is m a d e with a light d o w n w a r d pressure on t h e file h a n d l e a n d a heavier d o w n w a r d pressure on the file tip.

are adjusted until, w h e n the file is equidistant over the brass the t w o pressures are the s a m e .

A s the stroke continues, the t w o d o w n w a r d pressures are p r o -gressively reversed until, when t h e file has reached the e n d of its stroke, the heavier d o w n w a r d pressure is being m a d e on the h a n d l e a n d the lighter d o w n w a r d pressure o n the tip.

A little practice a n d it will be found t h a t the k n a c k of m a i n t a i n -ing these vary-ing pressures will n o t be difficult.

Pillar f i l e s usually h a v e b o t h edges s m o o t h t h u s enabling o n e face of a step to be filed w i t h o u t removing metal from the adjacent face.

Quite frequently t a p e r p i n s will h a v e to be m a d e by filing; this is k n o w n as 'pin-filing'.

A small block of fibre or h a r d w o o d is needed having in one face a n u m b e r of grooves of varying d e p t h s . T h e block is placed in the vice with the grooves u p p e r m o s t . A piece of selected brass r o d or wire is placed in the j a w s of the pin-vice (Fig. 3), the p r o t r u d i n g length d e p e n d e n t on the length of the p i n required.

T h e wire is laid in one of the grooves a n d held at a slight d o w n w a r d angle. T h e groove selected is t h a t which allows the wire to j u s t s t a n d p r o u d of the surface of t h e block.

A fine pillar file is selected a n d a light forward stroke is m a d e . T h e right h a n d can control the file better if t h e forefinger is

Fig. 3. Pin-vice.

straight a n d its tip resting on the side of the file. At the s a m e time the pin-vice is r o t a t e d between the forefinger a n d t h u m b of the left h a n d causing the wire to revolve against the direction of the file.

W h e n t h e stroke is c o m p l e t e d , the file is d r a w n b a c k , lightly resting on the wire to k e e p t h e wire in t h e groove, a n d the

Fig. 4. Correct methods of holding watchmaker's screwdrivers; and (centre) screwdriver blade.

Watch screwdrivers. These are best p u r c h a s e d as a set of three

or four in a box. T h e correct m e t h o d of h o l d i n g t h e m is shown in figure 4.

W i t h c o n s t a n t use screwdriver blades need re-shaping. This is d o n e by using a s m o o t h file. T h e blade of the screwdriver should be well b l u n t e d a n d the taper k e p t long (Fig. 4). If the t a p e r is s h o r t a n d the blade e n d is s h a r p , t h e screwdriver will tend to rise o u t of t h e screwdriver slot a n d d a m a g e the screw head.

Oilers. These can be p u r c h a s e d quite cheaply in attractive

plastic cases, b u t o n t h e o t h e r h a n d they a r e simple t o m a k e which sometimes proves m o r e satisfying.

T w o sizes a r e required. A small o n e for jewel holes a n d a larger o n e for general w o r k .

T h e small o n e can be m a d e from a sewing needle. H e a t the p o i n t to a blue, file t w o flats opposite each o t h e r , place the needle pin-vice is r o t a t e d in the opposite direction in readiness for the next stroke.

A little practice a n d synchronization of m o v e m e n t will be achieved.

on the vice a n d tap o u t the end using the round-face h a m m e r . Finish off with a small oilstone. F i g u r e 5 shows an enlarged view of the shaped e n d .

T h e larger o n e can be m a d e from a short length of steel wire. L o n g slender h a n d l e s are n o w needed. These can be m a d e from lengths of w o o d e n r o d r o u n d e d off at each e n d .

T h e m e t h o d of transferring oil from the oil bottle to t h e m o v e -m e n t is acco-mplished in t w o stages. First, a large w a t c h screw-driver is dipped into the bottle of oil a n d one d r o p of oil is placed in an oil c u p . T h e tip of t h e oiler is t h e n placed in t h e oil resulting in a small quantity of oil being deposited on the oiler.

T h e tip of the oiler is then allowed to t o u c h the p a r t to be oiled a n d if the oiler is correctly shaped the oil will be transferred by capillary action.

Eye-glasses. T h e list of tools includes three sizes of eye-glasses, a 1/4-in. focus d o u b l e lens, a 2-in. focus single lens (Fig. 6) a n d a 3-in. focus single lens. T h e 1/4-in. is for examining very fine w o r k such as jewel holes in watches. T h e 2-in. is for general use when w o r k i n g on watches, a n d the 3-in. is for clock w o r k .

T h e lens h o l d e r is fitted into the socket of the eye where it should r e m a i n w i t h o u t discomfort leaving b o t h h a n d s free to w o r k .

T h e lens holders vary slightly in diameter a n d thickness a n d it

is s o m e t i m e s m o r e satisfactory to try a few glasses for fit before m a k i n g a p u r c h a s e .

If after c o n t i n u a l use it is found t h a t the inner face of the lens t e n d s t o s t e a m u p , t w o o r three holes a b o u t 1 / 8 in. d i a m e t e r drilled t h r o u g h the side of the holder will c u r e the t r o u b l e .

S o m e repairers prefer to fit head-wires to their eye-glasses. At least this d o e s p r e v e n t t h e eye-glass from falling at a m o m e n t w h e n a delicate o p e r a t i o n is in progress.

A piece of spring steel wire is looped at o n e e n d to hold t h e eye-glass a n d t h e r e m a i n d e r is curved to fit t h e shape of t h e h e a d . T h e end s h o u l d reach the back o f the head a n d t h e n b e b e n t i n t o a small l o o p to prevent the end from digging in.

F o r t h o s e w h o w e a r spectacles, eye-glass h o l d e r s c a n b e p u r c h a s e d t h a t will fit the spectacle frames. Y o u r optician will be the best person to give advice in this respect.

Tweezers. A p a r t from eye-glasses, tweezers a r e possibly the

m o s t used t o o l s , particularly in w a t c h repairing. T o o l m a n u f a c -t u r e r s p r o d u c e wide ranges of -tweezers of m a n y shapes, sizes, qualities a n d uses a n d it is therefore sometimes difficult to k n o w h o w to m a k e a selection.

It is advisable to start with t w o pairs of g o o d quality tweezers for general use. O n e for light w o r k a n d the o t h e r a little m o r e r o b u s t .

Earlier in this c h a p t e r advice w a s given against b u y i n g c h e a p tools. T h i s applies particularly to tweezers.

T h e slightest tendency t o twist o r reluctance t o grip properly m a y result i n t h e p a r t s n a p p i n g o u t a n d being lost o r d a m a g e d . A g o o d p a i r of tweezers will pick up a h a i r between t h e p o i n t s from a piece of glass. It should be possible to place a piece of thin m e t a l between t h e p o i n t s a n d a p p l y plenty o f pressure w i t h o u t the p o i n t s curling o u t w a r d . If they do curl o u t w a r d (Fig. 7), t h e n the p o i n t s need t r i m m i n g . T h i s is best d o n e by using a small oilstone. I f t h e o u t w a r d c u r v e i s considerable, t h e n t h e p o i n t s m u s t b e carefully b e n t i n w a r d using the small flat-nose pliers.

Pliers (Fig. 8). If the serrations on t h e inner face of the pliers are

T h e brass-faced pliers are for h a n d l i n g delicate w o r k w i t h o u t d a m a g e o r m a r k i n g .

Top cutting nippers (Fig. 9). These a r e used for cutting lengths

of wire. K e e p the cutting edges s h a r p by using a m e d i u m cut pillar file.

Fig. 8. Pliers, (a) Flat-nose (b) Snipe-nose (c) Round-nose.

Fig. 9. Top-cutting pliers. Fig. 7. Tweezers.

Hand-removing levers. These a r e essential for r e m o v i n g h a n d s

a n d are easily m a d e . T w o pairs are needed, one fine pair for watches a n d a larger pair for clocks.

M a k e t h e levers from b r a s s as s h o w n in figure 10.

Pith holder. A r o u n d metal c o n t a i n e r a b o u t l 1/2 in. diameter

Fig. 10. Hand lifting lever.

Fig. 11. Blueing pan.

a n d l 1/2 in. d e e p is required. Place s o m e pieces of lead in the b o t t o m a n d melt t h e m d o w n . A layer a b o u t 1/4 in. is all t h a t is needed, e n o u g h to m a k e it firm w h e n standing on the b e n c h . P a c k t h e c o n t a i n e r tight with p i t h sticks a b o u t 1 1/4 in. long. T h e e n d s of tweezers a n d watch screwdrivers are k e p t clean by p r o d d i n g t h e m i n t o the pith.

T o o l s such as files, gravers, etc., m u s t h a v e handles fitted to t h e m .

H e a t t h e h a n d l e e n d of the t o o l to a cherry red m a k i n g sure t h a t the c u t t i n g end is n o t affected by the heat.

B u r n the tool i n t o the h a n d l e a l m o s t to the desired position. H o l d t h e tool vertically with t h e handle d o w n w a r d a n d strike

the vice a few h a r d blows with t h e tool h a n d l e . This should result in the h a n d l e being firmly in position.

Broaches. W h e n b r o a c h i n g a hole do n o t use force. Small

b r o a c h e s can be held in a pin-vice a n d r o t a t e d between the fore-finger a n d t h u m b . Larger b r o a c h e s need t h i n w o o d e n handles. W h e n cutting with a b r o a c h plenty of lubrication a n d frequent clearing of b r o a c h cuttings is necessary.

Blueing pan. This is used for blueing polished steel p a r t s T h e

p a n is a piece of brass sheet m e a s u r i n g approximately 1 1/2 in. x 1 in. a n d drilled with a r o w of g r a d u a t e d holes at one end.

To the o t h e r end is riveted a short length of steel r o d over which a w o o d e n h a n d l e is driven (Fig. 11).

T h e p a r t s to be blued are placed on the p a n which is then passed t h r o u g h a spirit flame.

As the t e m p e r a t u r e of the steel p a r t s increases, the surface colour of the steel changes to blue.

T h e p a n is r e m o v e d from the flame a n d the parts a r e either d r o p p e d into oil or they are allowed to cool off a n d given a c o a t of colourless lacquer.

Graduated Stake. (Fig. 12). T h i s is a flat steel block, h a r d e n e d

Fig. 12. Graduated stake.

a n d polished, a n d drilled with holes of different sizes to suit the w o r k in h a n d . T h e under-side is stepped so t h a t it c a n be held between the j a w s of a vice.

Watchmaker's Hammer (Fig. 13). These h a m m e r s can be

20 W A T C H A N D C L O C K R E P A I R S

general p u r p o s e h a m m e r , b u t w h e n the w o r k is m o r e delicate a n d the risk of d a m a g e greater, a brass head is used.

Finally, a useful set of tools (Fig. 14) is supplied by Smiths Clock a n d W a t c h Division, L o n d o n , England.

Fig. 14. Smith's set of tools,

(a) Case nut spanner, (b) Alarm stop spanner, (c) 'C' clip remover, (d) Balance screw key. (e) Hairspring collet adjuster, (f) Bezel remover, (g) De Luxe 12 ligne case opener, (h) Suction case opener, (i) De luxe 8 3/4 ligne case opener, (j) Yachting timer opener, (k) Empire watch case opener. (1) De luxe dustproof case opener, (m) Empire crown key. (n) Special screwdriver, (o) Hexagon nut spanner (8 χ 10 ΒΑ), (ρ)

Circular hand extractor, (q and r) Pair of hand lifting levers. Fig. 13. Watchmaker's hammer.

Materials

Oil. T h e lubrication of watches a n d clocks is d o n e by oil refined

specially for t h e p u r p o s e . Clock oil h a s a slightly greater viscosity t h a n watch oil. B o t h are supplied in small bottles of convenient size.

In C h a p t e r 5 we shall be discussing the oiling of a watch m o v e -m e n t a n d w h e n y o u realize h o w very little oil a co-mplete w a t c h needs, y o u will then appreciate t h a t even a small bottle will last a very long time.

W h e n ordering y o u r oil, be it for watches or clocks, b u y t h e very best. P o o r quality oil s o o n thickens a n d y o u will find yourself dismantling a n d cleaning the m o v e m e n t all over again.

M a k e sure it is w a t c h or clock oil. D o n ' t be misled into t h i n k i n g t h a t light m a c h i n e oil will d o , no m a t t e r h o w superior the quality m a y be.

If the viscosity of the oil is t o o great for the working p a r t s , the resistance is going to effect the time-keeping.

Pegwood. Sticks of p e g w o o d a r e sold in b u n d l e s a b o u t 6 in.

long. T h e y a r e used mainly for cleaning o u t pivot holes. This is d o n e by shaving one e n d of a stick to a fine p o i n t , inserting the p o i n t t h r o u g h the jewel hole a n d lightly twisting between the finger a n d t h u m b . A n y dirt in t h e hole will b e c o m e e m b e d d e d in the pegwood. G r e a t care m u s t b e t a k e n t o e n s u r e t h a t t h e p o i n t d o e s n o t b r e a k off in the pivot hole. U n t i l experience is gained it is advisable to e x a m i n e the pivot h o l e after this operation to m a k e sure it is clear. If a piece does b r e a k off it c a n be r e m o v e d by inserting the p e g w o o d from the o t h e r side.

Methylated spirit. This is used as fuel in the w a t c h m a k e r ' s spirit

l a m p . W h e n b u r n i n g , it gives off a clean smokeless flame a n d does n o t blacken or t a r n i s h articles h e a t e d in it. T h i s is essential when t e m p e r i n g steel because of the necessity of watching the colour c h a n g e .

22

Benzine and Gasoline. As a cleaning agent for watch a n d clock

m o v e m e n t s , benzine is u n d o u b t e d l y the best. It can be purchased from a chemist or drug store. A good alternative to benzine is gasoline, particularly t h a t sold as fuel for cigarette lighters. Both fluids have a high rate of evaporation a n d should therefore be k e p t in air-tight containers.

W A R N I N G : Both benzine and gasoline are highly inflammable and must therefore be kept well away from naked flames. Under no circumstances have them standing near when the watchmaker's spirit lamp is in use.

Cleaning fluids. As an alternative to using benzine or gasoline

there are m a n y proprietary cleaning fluids available on the market. Providing they are supplied by a reputable supplier these cleaning fluids have m u c h to c o m m e n d t h e m .

Polishing powders. These are c o m m o n l y k n o w n as crocus

powder, red-stuff a n d rouge, the only difference being their fineness of grain. R o u g e is the coarsest a n d crocus powder the finest. T h e p o w d e r is mixed with oil to p r o d u c e a cutting paste. T h e m e d i u m grade is t h a t m o s t c o m m o n l y used on watches.

Chalk. This is used on the cleaning brushes for cleaning the

m o v e m e n t s a n d to m a i n t a i n the cleanliness of the brushes them­ selves. A convenient form is billiard chalk. It is applied by stroking the brush over t h e chalk a few times.

Pith. T h e cleaning of watch pivots a n d similar parts is d o n e by

using pith. It is the pith from an elder tree t h a t h a s been dried, peeled a n d prepared in sticks.

Emery sticks. T w o pieces of h a r d w o o d approximately 5 in. χ

2 in. x 1/2 in. planed flat b o t h sides are required. F o u r grades of emery p a p e r ranging from very fine to m e d i u m are cut i n t o 2 in. strips. O n e strip from each grade is glued to the wood. These emery sticks, as they are n o w called, are very useful for reducing or smoothing steel or brass surfaces.

Dial enamel. This is used for repairing white enamel dials. It

The turns and their uses

T H E R E are t w o m e t h o d s of turning. O n e is to use a lathe a n d the o t h e r is by m e a n s of turns.

T u r n s a r e a simple device. M o t i v e p o w e r is p r o d u c e d by a h a n d - o p e r a t e d b o w looped once a r o u n d a ferrule, a n d the graver (cutting tool) is held in the o t h e r h a n d . A little practice is neces-sary to acquire the k n a c k of synchronizing these t w o m o v e m e n t s a n d after t h a t , simple t u r n i n g can be d o n e with a high degree of accuracy.

T h e lathe h a s m a n y a d v a n t a g e s over the t u r n s . I t i s n o t h a n d o p e r a t e d which m e a n s b o t h h a n d s are free for the w o r k , a n d it is far m o r e comprehensive in the n u m b e r of o p e r a t i o n s a n d func-tions it c a n perform. Being a precision m a c h i n e it is easier to achieve the same degree of accuracy.

T h e t u r n s consist of t w o centres a n d a h a n d r e s t with a steel or b r a s s b e a m passing t h r o u g h t h e m (Fig. 15). O n e of the centres is secured to the b e a m at one e n d , a n d it is here t h a t the t u r n s are held in a vice. T h e h a n d r e s t a n d r e m a i n i n g centre are free to slide a n d can be locked to the b e a m in a n y position.

Turning. T h e w o r k to be t u r n e d is placed on a t u r n i n g a r b o r

(Fig. 16), or in an adjustable ferrule (Fig. 17). In b o t h cases the assembly is s u p p o r t e d between t h e centres.

Fig. 15. The turns. 23

T h e h a n d r e s t is b r o u g h t close to the w o r k a n d locked in position.

T h e string of the b o w is passed o n c e a r o u n d the ferrule a n d the

b o w held in t h e left h a n d . A t u r n i n g graver is held in t h e right h a n d a n d i s placed o n t h e h a n d r e s t close t o the w o r k .

At each d o w n w a r d stroke of the b o w the graver is b r o u g h t up to t h e w o r k a n d a c u t is m a d e . T h e b o w is then m o v e d u p w a r d a n d the graver is moved away from the w o r k j u s t e n o u g h to give a clearance. T h e process is then repeated.

T u r n i n g a r b o r s a n d adjustable ferrules a r e supplied in a wide r a n g e of sizes. T h e b o w s a r e supplied in a few sizes a n d there is a choice of materials from which the bow-string is m a d e .

W h e n using a t u r n i n g a r b o r , a hole is drilled in the metal from Fig. 16. Arbor.

e n d to e n d which is t h e n b r o a c h e d o u t s m o o t h . T h e tapered hole will n o w p u s h tightly o n t o t h e a r b o r .

H o l d i n g t h e w o r k by an adjustable ferrule involves the selection of a ferrule of suitable size a n d t h e n c l a m p i n g it to the w o r k .

T h e gravers a r e m a d e from s q u a r e o r d i a m o n d section h a r d e n e d steel. T h e c u t t i n g e n d s a r e g r o u n d as s h o w n in figure 18. T h e graver at (a) is used for r o u g h i n g d o w n t h e metal, (b) is for finishing off a s q u a r e shoulder, c u t s being m a d e by the side of t h e tool as well as the p o i n t , a n d (c) is used for turning radiused s h o u l d e r s .

After grinding, the face is levelled a n d s m o o t h e d on an oilstone, a n d finally polished on an A r k a n s a s stone. T h e side faces a r e t h e n held flat on the stone a n d d r a w n carefully across to remove any b u r r s .

E a c h graver should be fitted with a w o o d e n h a n d l e as described in C h a p t e r 1.

H a v i n g secured the w o r k on an a r b o r or in a ferrule, it is n o w placed between the centres a n d the centres a r e b r o u g h t u p i n t o

Fig. 18. Gravers.

position a n d locked. T h e r e s h o u l d b e n o e n d float o f the w o r k . A p p l y a little oil at e a c h centre.

Adjust t h e h a n d r e s t t o bring i t close t o t h e w o r k . T h e exact distance will c o m e w i t h experience. If the distance is t o o great the

graver p o i n t will t e n d to d r o p a n d cause chattering. If t h e h a n d -rest is t o o close, there will be insufficient space to -rest the graver a n d operate freely.

T h e height of the h a n d r e s t m u s t n o w be adjusted. C u t t i n g is d o n e by the p o i n t of the tool which h a s to be in line with the

Fig. 19. Turning.

centre of the w o r k . If the graver is t o o high it will n o t c u t , a n d if it is t o o low it will t e n d to lift the w o r k a n d be d r a w n u n d e r . It is d u r i n g t h e d o w n w a r d s t r o k e o f t h e b o w t h a t t h e cuts a r e m a d e . L e t us a s s u m e we h a v e a piece of 1/4 in. d i a m e t e r brass r o d 1/4 in. l o n g t h a t h a s been drilled t h r o u g h its length a n d b r o a c h e d t o f i t a suitable size a r b o r .

T h e w o r k i s m o u n t e d between t h e centres a n d t h e t u r n s m a d e r e a d y for use.

F i r s t let us reduce the diameter. T h e graver is positioned as s h o w n in figure 19 (a) a n d m u s t be held quite firmly. A d o w n w a r d m o v e m e n t of t h e b o w is m a d e a n d t h e graver is allowed to j u s t t o u c h the w o r k at t h e s a m e t i m e m o v i n g slightly to t h e left. If t h e w o r k is n o t true an indication will be given by the graver n o t

m a k i n g a c o m p l e t e c u t b u t only r e m o v i n g metal from the high spots.

T h e b o w is given an u p w a r d stroke a n d the graver is m o v e d away from t h e w o r k by m e a n s of very slight finger pressure.

Carrying on from where the p r e v i o u s s t r o k e finished, the o p e r a t i o n is repeated until sufficient length of the material h a s been cut.

T h e graver is t h e n r e t u r n e d to t h e beginning a n d the m e t a l is further r e d u c e d in diameter.

T h i s process is repeated until the w o r k is revolving completely true a n d the diameter h a s been reduced t o the p r e d e t e r m i n e d size. N o w t o t u r n t h e face. T h e graver i s held a s s h o w n i n f i g u r e 19 (b) a n d the process of cutting repeated, this time m o v i n g the graver fore a n d aft.

Brass requires a higher cutting speed t h a n steel a n d therefore a longer b o w is needed.

B o w s are supplied in different lengths a n d a r e usually m a d e of w h a l e b o n e .

T h e ' s t r i n g ' i s either horsehair t h a t c a n b e p u r c h a s e d i n h a n k s , o r c o t t o n t h r e a d c o a t e d with beeswax.

Fig. 20. Drill.

T h e r e is a tendency for c o t t o n t h r e a d to fray a n d because of this h o r s e h a i r is to be preferred.

T h e tension o n t h e ' s t r i n g ' m u s t allow slip t o t a k e place w h e n l o o p e d a r o u n d the ferrule in case t h e graver should dig i n t o the

W A T C H A N D C L O C K R E P A I R S

w o r k . T h i s acts as a safety device a n d saves the w o r k from d a m a g e .

Drilling. As with the t u r n i n g , there are t w o m e t h o d s of drilling

in use by w a t c h m a k e r s . A g a i n , o n e m e t h o d is to use a lathe a n d t h e o t h e r is by b o w a n d ferrule.

To use a lathe is to e n s u r e precision. T h i s c a n n o t be said of t h e b o w a n d ferrule m e t h o d .

T h e type of drill u s e d by w a t c h m a k e r s is shown in figure 20, a n d it will be seen t h a t cutting t a k e s place in one direction only. T h e size of the b o w will d e p e n d on the size of the drill used. F o r the smallest drills a 9 in. b o w with horsehair is sufficient.

T h e selected drill is m o u n t e d in a stock a n d the lock screw tightened (Fig. 21). A ferrule is secured to t h e o t h e r e n d of t h e stock to t a k e the b o w . T h e h o r s e h a i r is so looped a r o u n d the ferrule as to r o t a t e the drill in a clockwise direction d u r i n g a d o w n w a r d stroke.

T h e stock centre at the ferrule e n d is positioned in a shallow h o l e drilled in a steel p l a t e held in t h e vice.

T h e w o r k is held against the drill a n d c u t t i n g t a k e s place at e a c h d o w n w a r d stroke o f the b o w .

Part Two

WATCHES

C H A P T E R F O U R

The movement

A W A T C H m o v e m e n t of high quality is necessarily complicated. M a n y h u n d r e d s o f p a r t s are used, each o n e c u t a n d fashioned b y craftsmen of u n q u e s t i o n a b l e skill.

S o m e of these p a r t s are so small they h a v e to be seen u n d e r a powerful magnifying glass before their perfection of design a n d m a n u f a c t u r e c a n be fully a p p r e c i a t e d .

T h e t e r m ' m o v e m e n t ' applies t o t h e c o m p l e t e watch less the case a n d it is m e a s u r e d in lignes.

T h e ligne w a s originally a F r e n c h m e a s u r e , being 1/12th of a p o u c e or F r e n c h inch. It travelled to E n g l a n d with the F r e n c h w a t c h m a k e r s . T h e ligne w a s further divided i n t o 12 douzièmes. T h e ligne used t o d a y by t h e w a t c h industries in E u r o p e is t h e F r e n c h measure—1 ligne is e q u a l to 2.55883 millimetres. T h i s is approximately 3/32nds of an inch.

T h e A m e r i c a n w a t c h industry uses a m e a s u r e originated by A a r o n L. D e n n i s o n in 1850 e m p l o y i n g a series of n u m b e r s with zero size as a basis. T h i s is e q u a l to 35/30ths of an inch. M o v e -m e n t s larger t h a n 0 a r e identified by full integers such as 1,2, 3, e t c . M o v e m e n t s smaller t h a n 0 a r e identified as 1/0, 2/0, 3/0, 4/0, etc. E a c h step is equal to 1/30th of an inch.

T h e r e is a further c o m p l i c a t i o n t h a t jewellers also use lines, b u t the jewellers' line is 1/40th of an inch.

T h e use of t h e ligne or line as a m e a s u r e is n o t consistent with m o d e r n m a n u f a c t u r i n g m e t h o d s a n d a n u m b e r of watch m a n u -facturers h a v e c h a n g e d over completely to millimetres.

T H E M O V E M E N T

F i g u r e 22 illustrates an inexpensive m e n ' s wristwatch fitted with a pin pallet escapement.

A w a t c h m o v e m e n t consists of a train of wheels with p o w e r at o n e e n d to drive t h e m , a n d a m e a n s of controlling their speed at the o t h e r e n d (Fig. 23). T o this i s a d d e d the m o t i o n w o r k a n d h a n d s to register the wheel train speed on a dial.

W A T C H A N D C L O C K R E P A I R S

It is of interest to n o t e t h a t m o s t wheel or gear trains in c o m m o n use a r e designed to r e d u c e speed a n d increase power. In m e c h a n i c -ally powered timepieces the reverse is the case.

Motive power. P o w e r is p r o v i d e d by a m a i n s p r i n g coiled in a

barrel. T h e inner end of the spring h a s a rectangular hole k n o w n as t h e eye. T h i s is h o o k e d to an a r b o r in the centre of the barrel. T h e o u t e r e n d of the spring is h o o k e d to the inner face of the barrel side. T h e m a i n s p r i n g occupies a b o u t o n e - t h i r d of the space inside the barrel. T h e action of w i n d i n g a watch spring causes the a r b o r t o r o t a t e a n d the inner e n d o f the m a i n s p r i n g t o w i n d itself r o u n d the a r b o r .

T h e r e are three m e t h o d s of using the m a i n s p r i n g to drive the wheel train a n d they are k n o w n as the going barrel, the stationary barrel a n d the fusee.

The going barrel. G e a r teeth a r e c u t on the o u t e r edge of the

barrel a n d this is k n o w n as the m a i n wheel. T h e a r b o r is squared at one end to receive a key or a r a t c h e t wheel. D u r i n g the process of winding the spring, the s p r i n g tension is held by a ratchet k n o w n as the clickwork.

W h e n the m o v e m e n t is functioning, the a r b o r r e m a i n s station-a r y station-a n d the bstation-arrel r o t station-a t e s station-a r o u n d it.

The stationary barrel. This m e t h o d will be found mostly in

A m e r i c a n watches. T h e barrel r e m a i n s stationary a n d the a r b o r revolves in the centre. At one e n d of the a r b o r is fitted a toothed wheel.

The fusee. T h e time-keeping of old w a t c h e s w a s affected by the

d r o p in p o w e r w h e n the m a i n s p r i n g r a n d o w n , a n d so a m e a n s of c o m p e n s a t i o n was necessary. T h i s c o m p e n s a t i o n w a s a c c o m -plished by t h e i n t r o d u c t i o n of t h e fusee.

A cone-shaped pulley was positioned next to the barrel. T h e pulley h a d a spiral groove m a c h i n e d in its face in which a c h a i n w a s placed. O n e e n d of the chain w a s h o o k e d to the base of the c o n e a n d t h e o t h e r e n d o f the c h a i n w a s h o o k e d t o t h e o u t e r face of the barrel side.

G e a r teeth were c u t o n the b o t t o m edge o f t h e c o n e a n d formed t h e m a i n wheel. W h e n t h e m a i n s p r i n g was w o u n d , the chain was

pulling on the smallest diameter of the c o n e with m i n i m u m leverage.

As the spring u n w o u n d itself a n d the p o w e r b e c a m e p r o -gressively less the chain was being transferred from the fusee a n d w a s winding itself on to the barrel. This caused the chain to pull on an ever increasing diameter of the cone with a p r o p o r t i o n a t e increase of leverage. By this m e t h o d suitable c o m p e n s a t i o n was achieved.

The wheel train. T h e teeth of the m a i n wheel mesh with the leaves of the centre wheel pinion. In the same way t h e centre wheel meshes with t h e third wheel pinion, t h e third wheel meshes with the fourth wheel pinion, a n d the fourth wheel meshes with the escape wheel pinion.

T h e centre wheel r o t a t e s once every h o u r a n d therefore carries the m i n u t e h a n d . T h e fourth wheel rotates once every m i n u t e a n d so carries the seconds h a n d .

T h e escapement. S o m e m e a n s of controlling t h e speed of t h e wheel train is n o w required. This is d o n e by the escapement which consists of an escape wheel, a lever a n d a balance.

T h e b a l a n c e is to a watch as a p e n d u l u m is to a clock. T h e balance wheel is m o u n t e d on a staff t h a t h a s a very fine pivot at each e n d b o t h of which o p e r a t e in jewel pivot holes.

T h e fitting of a spring to the wheel provides self-contained motive p o w e r e n o u g h to cause the wheel to vibrate m a n y times before c o m i n g to rest. T h e m o r e accurate the balance a n d the lower the frictional resistance at the pivots, the greater will be t h e n u m b e r of vibrations performed by the balance.

T h e escape wheel is controlled by the balance t h r o u g h the lever. O n e e n d of the lever is fitted with t w o pallets which allow the escape wheel to revolve one t o o t h at a time.

W h e n a t o o t h of the escape wheel comes i n t o c o n t a c t with one of the pallets, t h a t end of the lever is p u s h e d sideways which causes the o t h e r end to transmit a small impulse to the balance. It is this small impulse caused each t i m e the escape wheel moves t h a t prevents the balance from slowing d o w n a n d stopping.

It will be seen therefore t h a t the wheel train moves in a series of j u m p s .

To ensure sustained accuracy of time-keeping, each p a r t of the m o v e m e n t m u s t be m a c h i n e d with precision, all pivots finely polished, all friction surfaces adequately lubricated, a n d the m o v e m e n t m u s t be enclosed in a d u s t a n d moisture-proof case.

Everything possible m u s t be d o n e to reduce friction to a m i n i m u m . So-called jewels are fitted as pivot bearings. These jewels derive their n a m e from the time when w a t c h m a k e r s used rubies. T h i s practice no longer applies, instead a synthetic material of e q u a l h a r d n e s s is used.

T h e n u m b e r of jewels used in a w a t c h varies with the quality of the m o v e m e n t . T h e usual n u m b e r is 7, 15, 17 or 2 1 .

T h e seven-jewelled m o v e m e n t indicates t h a t only the escape-m e n t is fitted with jewels. T h e escape-majority of jewelled watches have fifteen jewels which takes t h e m up to the third wheel.

In addition to jewels being used as bearings for wheel pivots, they are also used as caps for the balance wheel pivot bearings, these are k n o w n as end-stones.

After a m o v e m e n t h a s been oiled, jewels a n d end-stones retain the oil by capillary action.

T h e train of wheels a n d the e s c a p e m e n t are supported by two plates k n o w n as the b o t t o m plate which is beneath the dial, a n d the t o p plate. Sometimes the t o p plate is dispensed with a n d a n u m b e r of bridge pieces or cocks a r e used instead.

Between the b o t t o m plate a n d the dial is the m o t i o n w o r k . This consists of a c a n n o n pinion, an h o u r wheel a n d a m i n u t e wheel.

Winding mechanisms. T h e r e are three types of winding m e c h a n

-isms. Early watches were supplied with separate keys, a n d were w o u n d t h r o u g h a hole in the back.

M o d e r n watches are keyless, the winding mechanism being p a r t of t h e m o v e m e n t .

Lastly there is the a u t o m a t i c type. T h e action of m o v i n g one's wrist causes a weight to swing which in t u r n winds the m a i n -spring. Overwinding is prevented by a slipping clutch mechanism.

Overhauling and cleaning

IF a w a t c h develops a fault t h e n it m u s t be traced a n d p u t right. If the m o v e m e n t is clean a n d oiled there is usually no need to carry o u t any additional w o r k o t h e r t h a n check the w a t c h for time-keeping.

In this c h a p t e r we are going to discuss generally the complete overhaul a n d cleaning of wristwatch m o v e m e n t s . T h e r e m a i n -ing chapters in this section deal with specific assemblies of p a r t s in greater detail a n d m u s t therefore be read in conjunction with this chapter.

Plates I to VI are those of a 5 1/4 x 8 3/4 ligne 15-jewel lever m o v e m e n t . They serve to show the sequence of assembly of the p a r t s in a m o d e r n wristwatch a n d the identification of p a r t s by n a m e .

T o o m u c h e m p h a s i s c a n n o t be placed on t h e need for careful inspection as the w o r k of dismantling c o n t i n u e s . A great deal of conscientious w o r k can be put i n t o the inspection a n d cleaning of individual p a r t s after dismantling b u t w h e n the m o v e m e n t is o n c e again assembled the original fault may still be there. If the history of the w a t c h is u n k n o w n to y o u then it m u s t be b o r n e in m i n d t h a t s o m e of the p a r t s m a y n o t be the originals a n d t h a t incorrect replacements m a y h a v e been f i t t e d o r t h a t b a d f i t t i n g m a y have t a k e n place. Before opening the case examine t h e watch closely. F r e q u e n t l y m u c h useful information c a n be o b t a i n e d t h a t might otherwise h a v e r e m a i n e d obscure.

M e t h o d s of o p e n i n g watch cases are dealt with in C h a p t e r 13 a n d y o u are advised to r e a d this before proceeding any further. If w h e n the case h a s been o p e n e d a considerable a m o u n t of dust is found inside, then the case needs some kind of a t t e n t i o n .

O p e r a t e the h a n d - s e t a n d turn the h a n d s i n the n o r m a l direc-tion a n d listen for fouling against the glass or dial. W i t h a keyless

watch it should be possible to pull the winding stem out a n d push it in without u n d u e force or looseness. T h e feel of the action should be s m a r t a n d positive. Test the side-shake of the winding stem. T h e r e should be just sufficient to prevent binding when being operated. This is very i m p o r t a n t because a loose fitting winder is an open invitation to dirt a n d d u s t to enter the m o v e m e n t . Examine the case for signs of it having been d r o p p e d or k n o c k e d . A blow on the case frequently results in b r o k e n balance pivots if shock absorbers are n o t fitted. R e m o v e the glass a n d inspect it for signs of fouling by the h a n d s . Carry o u t the same inspection on the dial. T h e m o s t likely fault will be fouling by the tip of the m i n u t e h a n d . Lightly t o u c h the h a n d s a n d apply side pressure to see if they a r e loose.

O p e r a t e the hand-set a n d hold the watch so t h a t it can be viewed from the side, turn the h a n d s a n d observe their m o v e m e n t . This will disclose any tendency to foul the dial a n d to foul them-selves. W h e n carrying o u t this check m a k e sure t h a t the dial is flat with the b o t t o m plate a n d is firmly secured.

With the aid of an eye-glass inspect the seconds h a n d to see if it is free of the dial face a n d that there is clearance between the seconds h a n d pipe a n d the hole in the dial.

If when t u r n i n g the h a n d s it is noticed t h a t the tip of the m i n u t e h a n d rises a n d falls, this is an indication t h a t the centre wheel is n o t upright. B u t if the m i n u t e h a n d r o t a t e s at a c o n s t a n t height above the dial a n d the h o u r h a n d rises a n d falls, then the centre a r b o r can be suspected of being bent.

T h e centre a r b o r can easily be checked by spinning it between a pair of callipers. If the a r b o r is bent, lay it on a flat steel stake a n d lightly t a p it with t h e p e a n i n g e n d of the w a t c h m a k e r ' s h a m m e r .

To correct the uprightness of a centre wheel necessitates o n e of the centre holes being b u s h e d . T h i s calls for the use of e q u i p m e n t t h a t is unlikely to be in the possession of a beginner, e.g. a lathe a n d a p u n c h a n d stake. In this event the work of bushing will have to be sent away.

s h a k e . W i t h a pair of tweezers h o l d the h o u r h a n d by its socket a n d lift the h o u r wheel up a n d d o w n . If there is no end-shake r e m o v e t h e m i n u t e h a n d a n d try again. If end-shake is n o w present it indicates t h a t the h o u r h a n d or the h o u r wheel pipe is fouling the m i n u t e h a n d a n d t h a t it is necessary to lower t h e h o u r h a n d on the h o u r wheel or reduce the length of the h o u r wheel pipe.

If, however, removal of the m i n u t e h a n d m a k e s no difference l o o k to see if the h o u r wheel pipe is fouling the dial hole or if the h o u r wheel is binding on the c a n n o n pinion.

T h e latter t w o faults will also eliminate side-shake which is the next check to m a k e . Additionally, if the d e p t h of mesh between the h o u r wheel a n d the m i n u t e wheel pinion is excessive the side-s h a k e will be reduced or eliminated altogether. It iside-s eside-sside-sential t h a t the h o u r h a n d h a s complete freedom of m o v e m e n t in b o t h directions otherwise t h e resistance offered up will have a r e t a r d i n g effect on the timekeeping of the watch if n o t stopping it c o m -pletely.

R e m o v e the m i n u t e h a n d a n d the h o u r h a n d with the levers illustrated in figure 10, a n d at t h e same time t a k e precautions against d a m a g i n g the dial by placing b e n e a t h each lever a piece of folded tissue p a p e r . H o l d the levers, one e a c h side of the h a n d to be r e m o v e d , a n d by applying light equal pressure d o w n w a r d s the h a n d will c o m e a w a y . T h e seconds h a n d is removed by the a c t i o n of lifting off the dial.

T h e m o v e m e n t m a y n o w be t a k e n from its case. T h e r e are a n u m b e r of m e t h o d s used to secure m o v e m e n t s so let us consider t h o s e t h a t we a r e m o s t likely to meet.

T h e m o v e m e n t of a keyless w a t c h fitted to a two-piece case, such as is illustrated in figure 69, is m a d e to slide i n t o the case a n d is held in position by the bezel. To remove it pull o u t the winder i n t o the set-hand position a n d by holding the winder gently ease t h e m o v e m e n t from the case. T h e use of a small screwdriver as a lever will assist this operation if the m o v e m e n t sticks a n d fails to lift o u t squarely.

W A T C H A N D C L O C K R E P A I R S

T h e m o v e m e n t , less the winding stem, is p u t i n t o the case middle from the front a n d is prevented from passing right t h r o u g h by the a p e r t u r e of the case middle being smaller at the back.

T h e m o v e m e n t is held in position by d o g screws, usually t w o in n u m b e r . These screws have large diameter heads a n d are inserted at the back of the m o v e m e n t . In screwing t h e m into the watch plate t h e h e a d s tighten on to a lip of the case middle a n d hold the m o v e m e n t secure.

Some d o g screws have a l m o s t half of their h e a d s c u t away. These screws only have to be t u r n e d slightly to bring the flats of their h e a d s in line with the case lip a n d the m o v e m e n t is freed w i t h o u t the necessity of r e m o v i n g the d o g screws.

W i t h these watches the winding stem passes t h r o u g h the case middle before entering the m o v e m e n t a n d is therefore inserted after the m o v e m e n t is in position.

To t a k e the m o v e m e n t out, slacken the pull-out piece setting bolt, w i t h d r a w the winding stem, slacken or r e m o v e the d o g screws a n d carefully push t h e m o v e m e n t forward a n d out.

Some of the earlier key-wound watches h a v e their m o v e m e n t s hinged to the case middle with a spring catch diametrically opposite to hold it. To t a k e the m o v e m e n t o u t necessitates the removal of the hinge pin.

W h a t e v e r the m e t h o d used, however, careful e x a m i n a t i o n will indicate t h e p r o c e d u r e for dismantling.

H a v i n g t a k e n o u t the m o v e m e n t we n o w h a v e to lift off the dial. In the majority of watches the backs of the dials h a v e t w o c o p p e r feet soldered diametrically opposite each other. These feet pass i n t o holes in the b o t t o m plate a n d are secured by screws entering the b o t t o m plate from the side. Slackening of these screws frees t h e dial. Usually a little assistance is required because the screw tension causes slight bending of the feet preventing t h e m from being lifted straight out. Insert a thin blade of a pocket knife u n d e r the dial close to the feet a n d slightly twist t h e blade so t h a t the pressure on the dial takes place at the base of the feet. T h i s m e t h o d will prevent the dial from bending, a precaution which is essential with enamel dials in particular to

prevent cracking of the enamel. W h e n lifting the dial off take care n o t to lose the seconds h a n d if there is o n e fitted.

A n o t h e r m e t h o d used to secure the dial is the fitting of d o g screws.

These screws have a conical flange half way d o w n their length. O n e side of the flange is cut a w a y . T h e screw is inserted in the plate parallel a n d adjacent to the dial feet a n d t u r n e d so t h a t the edge of the flange passes into a slot c u t in each dial foot. By r o t a t i n g the screws half a t u r n i n w a r d the c u t away p o r t i o n faces the dial feet a n d enables the dial to be w i t h d r a w n .

T h e dials of some of the cheaper watches are m a d e with small tongues on the edge t h a t are b e n t over to grip the m o v e m e n t when the dial is in position. W h e n these tongues have been b e n t a few times they s n a p off a n d m e a n s of securing the dial are lost. In handling a dial of this kind it is essential t h a t the t o n g u e s are bent as little as possible.

H a v i n g r e m o v e d the dial inspect the u n d e r s i d e for signs of fouling. T h e dial m a y h a v e been pressing on the m i n u t e wheel pinion. If this h a p p e n s the timekeeping will be erratic. T h e m i n u t e wheel pinion may bind only in certain positions. W h e n the watch is n o t being w o r n the pressure of the dial on t h e pinion m a y j u s t be sufficient to stop t h e m o v e m e n t , b u t the action of disturbing the watch m a y cause the m o v e m e n t to function again. D u r i n g the time t h e watch is w o r n the effect m a y be a slowing d o w n a t intermittent periods.

Should there be some d o u b t as to whether fouling is taking place, a d r o p of oil on the pinion can be used as an indicator.

Replace t h e dial, o p e r a t e the hand-set a n d r o t a t e t h e m o t i o n work. R e m o v e the dial a n d inspect again. A n y trace of oil on the underside is an indication t h a t there is insufficient clearance between the dial a n d the m i n u t e wheel pinion.

There are t w o m e t h o d s of increasing this clearance; by r e m o v -ing metal from the u n d e r s i d e of t h e dial or by reduc-ing t h e height of the m i n u t e wheel pinion.

In the case of a metal dial t a k e a c h a m o i s leather a n d fold it i n t o four thicknesses a n d place it on a flat block of w o o d on the

W A T C H A N D C L O C K R E P A I R S

b e n c h . Over the c h a m o i s leather place two thicknesses of tissue p a p e r , t h e n lay the dial face d o w n w a r d on it.

Scraping is d o n e with the tip of a very sharp knife. T h e strokes m u s t be as light as possible to prevent bruising of the dial face. C o n t i n u e scraping until all the pinion m a r k s have been r e m o v e d a n d then fit the dial to the m o v e m e n t a n d test again by the oil m e t h o d .

To reduce the thickness of an enamel dial a c a r b o r u n d u m stick is required. These are m a d e specially for t h e j o b a n d c a n be o b t a i n e d from y o u r supplier.

S u p p o r t the dial as for a metal dial. Moisten the c a r b o r u n d u m stick in water a n d r u b it fairly heavily over t h e affected a r e a in a circular m o t i o n . C o n t i n u e this grinding action until all traces of fouling have been removed or until the c o p p e r dial shows t h r o u g h . If the copper does show before the pinion m a r k s h a v e been removed then it is advisable to s t o p w o r k on the dial a n d have the height of the m i n u t e wheel pinion reduced in a lathe.

Earlier in the c h a p t e r it was m e n t i o n e d t h a t before r e m o v i n g the h a n d s , a little side pressure should be given to t h e m to find o u t if they were tight on the wheels. In the case of the m i n u t e h a n d a l t h o u g h the h a n d m a y h a v e been tight o n the c a n n o n pinion, nevertheless the c a n n o n pinion may h a v e been loose on the centre a r b o r .

T h i s is a very c o m m o n fault with t h e snap-on type of c a n n o n pinion a n d is a c o n s t a n t source of trouble.

T h e centre a r b o r is m a c h i n e d with a groove all r o u n d it. T h e c a n n o n pinion is similarly m a c h i n e d a n d the base of the groove is then burnished inward causing an internal bulge. It is this bulge t h a t locates the pinion on the a r b o r a n d provides the friction drive.

T h e remedy against slipping is to reburnish the c a n n o n pinion groove until it grips the a r b o r once again.

Lift off the m i n u t e wheel a n d check the tightness of the m i n u t e wheel post. T h e n hold the m i n u t e wheel between finger a n d t h u m b a n d grip the m i n u t e wheel pinion by inserting the points of the tweezers between the leaves. Rock the tweezers to find o u t if the

m i n u t e wheel is loose on the pinion. Replace the m i n u t e wheel on its post.

D e p t h i n g of the wheel teeth m u s t n o w be tried. First remove the h o u r wheel a n d try the depthing between the c a n n o n pinion a n d the m i n u t e wheel. T h e n replace the h o u r wheel a n d try the d e p t h i n g between the h o u r wheel a n d the m i n u t e wheel pinion. After carrying o u t these checks the wheels m u s t be r o t a t e d so t h a t d e p t h i n g can be tried with a different set of teeth. R e p e a t this until each wheel a n d pinion h a s been tried in four different positions.

On the bench in front of you place a sheet of stiff white p a p e r on which the parts can be placed as they a r e removed from the m o v e m e n t . T h e p a r t s should be kept together in g r o u p s c o m p l e t e with any screws. Sometimes the screws in o n e g r o u p are similar b u t one is slightly longer t h a n t h e o t h e r s . It is i m p o r t a n t t h a t a screw is n o t used where a shorter o n e s h o u l d be. T h e r e is the possibility of the end of the t h r e a d fouling s o m e t h i n g which may prevent the screw from being tightened or m a y cause the watch n o t to function.

T h e screws should, therefore, be placed in or near to their respective holes in the p a r t to which they belong.

N o w t u r n the m o v e m e n t over in readiness to remove the balance.

W i t h the m a i n s p r i n g partly w o u n d carry o u t an inspection of the e s c a p e m e n t a n d m a k e notes of any faults. Details of this inspection are c o n t a i n e d in C h a p t e r 10.

If the watch is fitted with a cylinder e s c a p e m e n t the mainspring m u s t be let d o w n before the balance is r e m o v e d , otherwise the train of wheels will be driven by the m a i n s p r i n g at high speed which will invariably lead to d a m a g e of the pivots.

T o let the m a i n s p r i n g d o w n h o l d the winding b u t t o n , o r the key in the case of a k e y - w o u n d w a t c h , a n d m a k e a slight t u r n in the direction of winding. T h i s will partly raise the click which can then be fully released from the ratchet wheel by the p o i n t of a p e g w o o d stick.

t h e winding b u t t o n which, if allowed to r o t a t e slowly between the finger a n d t h u m b , will permit the m a i n s p r i n g to u n w i n d .

C a r e m u s t be taken n o t to let go of the b u t t o n whilst the click is held back because the m a i n s p r i n g will then u n w i n d itself at high speed a n d cause d a m a g e to its centre. If it is felt t h a t finger c o n t r o l of the b u t t o n is being lost, release the click i n t o the ratchet wheel a n d try again.

W h e n the m o v e m e n t is in this position it m u s t n o t be laid on the bench a n d w o r k e d on because the centre a r b o r t h a t carries the c a n n o n pinion a n d the fourth wheel pivot t h a t carries t h e seconds h a n d will be projecting.

Either the m o v e m e n t rests at an angle on the bench a n d is s u p p o r t e d in the h a n d , or a watch m o v e m e n t stand m u s t be used. Adjustable stands can be purchased but a length of metal tube a b o u t 1 1/2 in. long, squared at the ends a n d of suitable diameter will do quite well.

T a k e o u t the screw holding the balance cock a n d very carefully lever the balance cock u p . A small n o t c h will be seen on the edge of the cock into which the blade of a small screwdriver can be inserted. Because the leverage will be concentrated at one end there will be a tendency for the cock to press d o w n on the balance pivot at the o t h e r end. This must be prevented a n d once the balance cock h a s been m o v e d it m u s t be b r o u g h t level again by raising the other end in tweezers.

Once the balance cock pins have been withdrawn from the b o t t o m plate the cock c a n be lifted from the m o v e m e n t with the balance wheel a n d spring hanging from it.

Y o u m a y find there is a tendency for the balance wheel to catch a n d n o t come away. T h i s will be because t h e roller is c a u g h t in the lever fork. If this h a p p e n s any further a t t e m p t to lift the balance will only result in the coils of the hairspring being pulled o u t .

To free the roller, the cock is held stationary above the m o v e -ment, a n d the m o v e m e n t is slowly t u r n e d until the roller is freed.

t o u c h e s the p a p e r roll the cock over on its back. In d o i n g this the spring will cause the balance wheel t o d o t h e same. T h e b a l a n c e wheel is n o w held in the tweezers a n d positioned so t h a t t h e balance pivot rests in the jewel h o l e in the regulator index.

T h e balance n o w h a s to be separated from the cock. First, e x a m i n e the index pins. Some w a t c h e s are fitted with o n e fixed p i n a n d one m o v a b l e pin. T h e movable pin h a s a lip on the t o p t h a t bridges the g a p between t h e t w o pins a n d so prevents the o u t e r coil of the hairspring from c o m i n g o u t . This movable pin h a s a screwdriver slot in the e n d enabling the pin to be turned t h u s swinging the lip clear a n d m a k i n g it possible for the hair-spring to be removed.

N o w r e m o v e the stud from t h e balance c o c k . Studs a r e either held in by a screw or they are a p u s h fit. If the stud is the latter t y p e , grip it firmly with a pair of s t r o n g tweezers a n d gently ease the stud o u t , taking care n o t to alter the b e n d or set of the hair-spring.

Lift the balance clear a n d place it on the white p a p e r a l o n g with t h e balance cock screw.

It is advisable at this stage to leave the index assembled to the c o c k a n d remove it only when y o u are ready to clean it.

If the m o v e m e n t is n o t fitted with a cylinder escapement then y o u will n o t have u n w o u n d the mainspring.

T h e pallets are next t o b e r e m o v e d a n d s o w e m u s t let the m a i n s p r i n g d o w n .

H a v i n g d o n e this, r e m o v e the screws from the pallet cock, lift t h e pallet cock away a n d r e m o v e the pallets.

If the wheel train starts to r o t a t e , it is only because by releasing t h e click from the ratchet wheel it is n o t possible to completely let d o w n the mainspring. However, w h a t little energy r e m a i n s in t h e spring quickly spends itself with no d a m a g e to any p a r t .

Before removing the wheels, t u r n the watch over so t h a t the c a n n o n pinion can be removed. Because the c a n n o n pinion is a friction tight fit on the centre a r b o r all t h a t is required to remove it is a straight pull. C a r e m u s t be t a k e n , however, in avoiding d a m a g e to the pinion when it is being held. O n e of the safest a n d

m o s t simple m e t h o d s is to grip t h e c a n n o n p i n i o n in a pair of brass-faced pliers.

W i t h the c a n n o n pinion r e m o v e d t u r n the m o v e m e n t over again.

Before proceeding with the dismantling of the wheel train we m u s t test the d e p t h i n g . T a k e a p e g w o o d stick a n d shave it to a b l u n t point. Press the e n d of the stick on to the fourth wheel pivot a n d h o l d the wheel. W i t h a n o t h e r p o i n t e d p e g w o o d stick t o u c h the third wheel a n d try the shake of the third wheel teeth in the fourth wheel pinion. R e p e a t this process for the o t h e r wheels.

In Plate IV it will be seen t h a t the escape wheel, fourth wheel, third wheel a n d the centre wheel are all held in position by a train wheel bridge. This a r r a n g e m e n t d o e s n o t a p p l y t o all w a t c h e s . In some m o v e m e n t s the centre wheel is held in by a top plate a n d the remaining wheels are s u p p o r t e d in the same cock or b a r . T h e n there is the b a r m o v e m e n t in which each wheel h a s its o w n bar. T h i s m e t h o d is preferred by m a n y watch repairers but t h e o t h e r m e t h o d s have obvious a d v a n t a g e s .

R e m o v e the screws from the wheel train bridge a n d carefully lift the bridge off. Some bridges will have small notches similar to t h a t previously m e n t i o n e d in the balance cock for the insertion of a lever. T h e bridge or cock h a s locating p i n s u n d e r n e a t h a n d as soon as they are free of the b o t t o m plate the bridge will c o m e a w a y . Lift o u t the wheels a n d place t h e m with the bridge a n d the screws.

N o w r e m o v e the click, click spring, transmission wheel a n d ratchet wheel from the barrel bridge. S o m e watches are fitted with transmission wheel screws with a left-hand thread a n d this m u s t b e b o r n e i n m i n d w h e n a t t e m p t i n g t o loosen the screw. I t is as well to get into the h a b i t of trying to t u r n the screw first o n e way a n d then the o t h e r slowly increasing t h e pressure until the screw eventually t u r n s .

R e m o v e the barrel bridge a n d lift o u t t h e m a i n s p r i n g barrel. T h i s leaves the b o t t o m plate with t h e balance endpiece a n d the keyless w o r k .