null

(1)

(2)

(3)

Survey o

H

(4)

(5)

Historic

Phyllis

Phyllis G. T

G. Tortora

ortora

Queens College of the City University of

Queens College of the City University of New Y

New York

ork

Keith Eubank

Queens College of the City University of

Queens College of the City University of New Y

New York

ork

Fcld Books

Nw Yok

Survey o

(6)

(7)

Costume

A History o Western Dress

F I F T H E D I T I O N

(8)

(9)

E

ExEcutivExEcutivEEEditorditor::Olga T. KontziasOlga T. Kontzias

A

AssistAntssistAntAAcquisitionscquisitionsEEditorditor::Amanda BrecciaAmanda Breccia

E

EditoriAlditoriAlddEvElopmEntEvElopmEntddirEctorirEctor::Jennier CraneJennier Crane

A

AssistAntssistAntddEvElopmEntEvElopmEntEEditorditor::Justine BrennanJustine Brennan

A

AssociAtEssociAtEAArtrtddirEctorirEctor::Erin FitzsimmonsErin Fitzsimmons

p

productionroductionddirEctorirEctor::Ginger HillmanGinger Hillman

s

sEniorEniorpproductionroductionEEditorditor::Elizabeth MarottaElizabeth Marotta

c

copyEditoropyEditor::Progressive Publishing AlternativesProgressive Publishing Alternatives

p

photohotorEsEArchrEsEArch::Elizabeth Greenberg and Sarah Elizabeth Greenberg and Sarah SilbergSilberg

n

nEwEwillustrAtionsillustrAtions::Steve StankiewiczSteve Stankiewicz

c

covErovErdEsigndEsign::Erin FitzsimmonsErin Fitzsimmons

c

covErovErArtArt::© Craig McDean / Art © Craig McDean / Art + Commerce+ Commerce

B

BAckAckcovErcovErArtArt::Copyright The Frick Collection, New York; Young Woman with Servant, Stephen Slaughter, English, 1697–Copyright The Frick Collection, New York; Young Woman with Servant, Stephen Slaughter, English, 1697–

1765. Photograph courtesy, Wadsworth Atheneum, Hartord. The Ella Gallup Sumner and Mary Caitlin Sumner Collection

Fund; American Folk Art Museum, git o the Siegman Trust, Ralph Esmerian, trustee, 2001.37.1/Photo by John Parnell.

t

tExtExtdEsigndEsignAndAndlAyoutlAyout::Barbara J. BargBarbara J. Barg

Fairchild Books

All rights reserved. No part o this book covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in book covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any orm or by anyany orm or by any

means—graphic

means—graphic, electronic, or , electronic, or mechanical, including photocopyinmechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or g, recording, taping, or inormation storage and retrievalinormation storage and retrieval

systems—without written permission o the publisher.

Library o Congress Catalog Card Number: 2008936655

ISBN: 978-1-56367-806-6

GST R 133004424

Printed in the United States o

Printed in the United States o AmericaAmerica

TP08

(10)

(11)

 

C O N T E N T S

Preace Preace xixxix Acknowledgments Acknowledgments xxixxi

Some Notes on Using This Book Some Notes on Using This Book xxxx Chapter

Chapter One One IntroductionIntroduction 11

Pa

rt

ON

e

t

anc

n



Wold

c.

300

0

bb..cc..

–

aa..dd..

3 0 0 1 3

Chapter

Chapter Two Two The The Ancient Ancient Middle Middle East East c. c. 3500–6003500–600BB..cc.. 1919

Chapter

Chapter Three Three Crete Crete and and Greece Greece c. c. 2900–3002900–300BB..cc.. 5151

Chapter

Chapter Four Four Etruria Etruria and and Rome c. Rome c. 800800BB..cc..––AA..dd..400400 7575

Pa

rt

tW

O

t

Md

dl

ag

s

c.

300

300 –15

–15

00

99

Chapter

Chapter Five Five The The Early Early Middle Middle Ages Ages c. c. 300–1300300–1300 107107 Chapter

Chapter Six Six The The Late Late Middle Middle Ages c. Ages c. 1300–15001300–1500 145145

Pa

rt

th

re

e

t

rn

s

sn

c

c.

140

140 0–1

0–1

600

175

Chapter

Chapter Seven Seven The The Italian Italian Renaissance Renaissance c. c. 1400–16001400–1600 181181 Chapter

Chapter Eight Eight The The Northern Northern Renaissance c. Renaissance c. 1500–16001500–1600 203203

P

a

r

t

F

O

u

r

Boq



nd

rococo

c.

1600

–1800

229

Chapter

Chapter Nine Nine The The Seventeenth Seventeenth Century Century 1600–17001600–1700 237237 Chapter

Chapter TTen en The The Eighteenth Eighteenth Century Century 1700–17901700–1790 265265

P

a

r

t

F

i

v

e

t

Nn

n

Cny

1800–

1900

295

Chapter

Chapter Eleven Eleven The The Directoire Directoire Period Period and and the the Empire Empire Period Period 1790–18201790–1820 307307 Chapter

Chapter Twelve Twelve The The Romantic Romantic Period 1820–1850Period 1820–1850 327327 Chapter

Chapter Thirteen Thirteen The The Crinoline Crinoline Period Period 1850–18691850–1869 353353 Chapter

Chapter Fourteen Fourteen The The Bustle Bustle Period Period and and the the Nineties Nineties 1870–19001870–1900 379379

P

a

r

t

S

i

x

Fom



twn

o



twny-fs



Cny

1900–

2008

411

Chapter

Chapter Fiteen Fiteen The The Edwardian Edwardian Period Period and and World World War War I I 1900–19201900–1920 417417 Chapter

Chapter Sixteen Sixteen The The Twenties, Twenties, Thirties, Thirties, and and World World War War II II 1920–19471920–1947 447447 Chapter

Chapter Seventeen Seventeen The The New New Look: Look: Fashion Fashion Conormity Conormity Prevails Prevails 1947–19601947–1960 495495 Chapter

Chapter Eighteen Eighteen The The Sixties Sixties and and Seventies: Seventies: Style Style TTribes ribes Emerge Emerge 1960–19801960–1980 529529 Chapter

Chapter Nineteen Nineteen The The Eighties, Eighties, the the Nineties, Nineties, and and the the Twenty-rst Twenty-rst CenturyCentury 1980–2008 1980–2008 579579 Bibliography Bibliography 652652 Credits Credits 659659 Index Index 661661

(12)

(13)

ii ii

E X T E N D E D C O N T E N T S

Preace xix Preace xix Acknowledgments xxi Acknowledgments xxi Some

Some Notes Notes on on Using Using This This Book Book xxvxxv CHAPTER ONE

CHAPTER ONE Introduction 1 Introduction 1 The

The Origins Origins o o Dress Dress 11 Limitations

Limitations to to the the Design Design o o Garments Garments 22 Common Themes in Costume History Common Themes in Costume History

across

across Time Time 33 Functions

Functions o o Dress Dress in in the the Social Social Context Context 33 Clothing

Clothing as as a a Means Means o o Social Social Communication Communication 55 The

The Historical Historical Context Context 55 Cross-Cultural

Cross-Cultural Inuences Inuences 6 6 Geography,

Geography, the the Natural Natural EnvironmeEnvironment, nt, and and Ecology Ecology 77 Clothing

Clothing as as an an Art Art Form Form 77 The

The Phenomenon o Phenomenon o Fashion Fashion in in Western Western Dress Dress 88 Sources o Evidence or the Study o Historic Sources o Evidence or the Study o Historic

Costume 9 Costume 9 Summary 10 Summary 10 Notes 11 Notes 11 Selected

Selected Readings Readings 1111

PART ONE

The Ancient World c. 3000

b.c.b.c.

_–

a.d.a.d.

_{300 13}

Table I.1

Table I.1 Civilizations Civilizations o o the the Ancient Ancient World World 1414 Decorative Arts

Decorative Arts TTableable 1414 CHAPTER TWO

CHAPTER TWO

The Ancient Middle East c. 3500–600

The Ancient Middle East c. 3500–600 b.c.b.c. ₁₉₁₉ Chronology

Chronology 1818 Historical

Historical Background: Background: Mesopotamia Mesopotamia 2020 Historical

Historical Background: Background: Egypt Egypt 2020

Dierences in the Development o Egyptian Dierences in the Development o Egyptian

and

and Mesopotamian Mesopotamian Civilizations Civilizations 2121 Mesopotamian

Mesopotamian Civilization Civilization 2222 Social

Social Structure Structure 2222

The

The Family Family 2323 Fabrics

Fabrics and and Cloth Cloth Production Production 2323 Sources

Sources o o Evidence Evidence about about Sumerian Sumerian Costume Costume 2323 Mesopotamian Costume/Sumerian Costume Mesopotamian Costume/Sumerian Costume

or Men and

or Men and Women: c. 3500–2500Women: c. 3500–2500 b.c.b.c. 2424 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Men Men and and Women Women 2424 Mesopotamian Costume/Later Sumerians and Mesopotamian Costume/Later Sumerians and

Babylonians: c. 2500–1000

Babylonians: c. 2500–1000 b.c.b.c. 2424 Costume Components or Men/Military Dress: Costume Components or Men/Military Dress:

c. 2500–1000

c. 2500–1000b.c.b.c. 2525

Costume Components or Men/Civilian Dress: Costume Components or Men/Civilian Dress:

c. 2500–1000

c. 2500–1000b.c.b.c. 26 26

Costume Components or Women: Costume Components or Women:

c. 2500–1000

c. 2500–1000b.c.b.c. 26 26

Mesopotamian Costume/Later Babylonians and the Mesopotamian Costume/Later Babylonians and the

Assyrians: c. 1000–600

Assyrians: c. 1000–600 b.c.b.c. 2727 The

The TTunic unic 2828

Costume Components or Men: c. 1000–600

Costume Components or Men: c. 1000–600 b.c.b.c. 2828

Costume

Costume Components Components or or Men/Military Men/Military Dress Dress 2929 Costume Components or Women:

Costume Components or Women: c. 1000–600

c. 1000–600b.c.b.c. 2929

Mesopotamian Costume or Children: Mesopotamian Costume or Children:

c. 3500–600

c. 3500–600 b.c.b.c. 3030 Egyptian

Egyptian Civilization Civilization 3030 Social

Social Structure Structure 3030

Sources o Evidence or the Study o Egyptian Sources o Evidence or the Study o Egyptian

Costume 31 Costume 31 Egyptian

Egyptian Art Art 3131 The

The Contents Contents o o TTombs ombs 3131 Egyptian

Egyptian Decorative Decorative Motis Motis 3232 Contributions

Contributions o o Artisans Artisans to to Costume Costume 3232 T

Textile extile Production Production and and TTechnology echnology 3232 Jewelry 33

Jewelry 33

Egyptian Costume: c. 3000–300

Egyptian Costume: c. 3000–300 b.c.b.c. 3333 Costume

Costume TTerminology erminology 3434 Table 2.1

Table 2.1 Garments Worn by Egyptian Men andGarments Worn by Egyptian Men and Women

(14)

(15)

iii

iii exndd Connsexndd Conns

Egyptian Costume or Men: c.

Egyptian Costume or Men: c. 3000–3003000–300 b.c.b.c. 3535 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Men Men 3535 Contemporary Comments 2.1 Contemporary Comments 2.1 3535 Egyptian Costume or Women: 3000–300

Egyptian Costume or Women: 3000–300 b.c.b.c. 3838 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Women Women 3838 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Men Men and and Women Women 4141 Egyptian Costume or Children: 3000–300

Egyptian Costume or Children: 3000–300 b.c.b.c. 4343 Illustrated Table 2.1

Illustrated Table 2.1 Some o the HeaddressesSome o the Headdresses Worn

Worn in in Ancient Ancient Egypt Egypt 4444 Egyptian

Egyptian Costume Costume or or Specialized Specialized Occupations Occupations 4545 Military

Military Costume Costume 4545 Religious

Religious Costume Costume 4545 Costume

Costume or or Musicians, Musicians, Dancers, Dancers, and and Acrobats Acrobats 4545 Summary 45

Summary 45 Themes 45 Themes 45 V

VisualisualssummaryummaryTTableable 4646

Later Survivals o Mesopotamian and Later Survivals o Mesopotamian and

Egyptian

Egyptian Dress Dress 4747 Notes 48

Notes 48 Selected

Selected Readings Readings 4848 CHAPTER THREE CHAPTER THREE

Crete and Greece c. 2900–300

Crete and Greece c. 2900–300 b.c.b.c. ₅₁₅₁ Chronology

Chronology 5050 Minoan

Minoan and and Mycenaean Mycenaean Civilizations Civilizations 5252 Historical

Historical Background Background 5252

Social Organization and Material Culture o

Social Organization and Material Culture o MinoanMinoan and

and Mycenaean Mycenaean Civilizations Civilizations 5252

Art and Technology o Minoan and Mycenaean Art and Technology o Minoan and Mycenaean

Civilizations 53 Civilizations 53

Minoan Costume or Men and Women: Minoan Costume or Men and Women:

2900–1100

2900–1100 b.c.b.c. 5353 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Men Men and and Women Women 5454 Minoan Costume or Children:

Minoan Costume or Children: 2900–11002900–1100 b.c.b.c. 5757 T

Transitions ransitions in in the the Dominant Dominant Styles Styles 5757 Greek

Greek Civilization Civilization 5757 Historical

Historical Background Background 5757 Social

Social Organization Organization o o the the Greek Greek Civilization Civilization 5858 Fabrics

Fabrics and and Cloth Cloth Production Production 6060 Sources o Evidence or the Study o Greek Sources o Evidence or the Study o Greek

Costume 61 Costume 61 Greek

Greek Art Art 6161

Greek Costume or Men and Women: Greek Costume or Men and Women:

650–300

650–300 b.c.b.c. 6262 Table 3.1

Table 3.1 Types o Chitons Worn by Greek MenTypes o Chitons Worn by Greek Men and

and Women Women 6262 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Men Men and and Women Women 6363 Contemporary Comments 3.1

Contemporary Comments 3.1 6464 Illustrated Table 3.1

Illustrated Table 3.1 Examples o HairstylesExamples o Hairstyles and Headdress Worn by

and Headdress Worn by Men and WomenMen and Women in

in Greece Greece 6666

Greek Costume or Children: 650–300

Greek Costume or Children: 650–300 b.c.b.c. 6767 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Children Children 6868 Greek Costume or Specialized Occupations Greek Costume or Specialized Occupations

or

or Occasions Occasions 6868 Wedding

Wedding Dress Dress 6868

Contemporary Comments 3.2 Contemporary Comments 3.2 6969

Military

Military Costume Costume 6969 Theatrical

Theatrical Costume Costume 7070 Summary 70

Summary 70 Themes 70 Themes 70 V

VisualisualssummaryummaryTTableable 7171 Later

Later Survivals Survivals o o Greek Greek Dress Dress 7272 Notes 72

Notes 72 Selected

Selected Readings Readings 7373 CHAPTER FOUR

CHAPTER FOUR Etruria and Rome c. 800

Etruria and Rome c. 800 b.c.b.c._––a.d.a.d._{400 75}_{400 75} Chronology

Chronology 7474 The

The Etruscans Etruscans 7676 Historical

Historical Background Background 76 76 Social

Social Lie Lie o o the the Etruscans Etruscans 76 76 Art

Art and and TTrade rade o o the the Etruscans Etruscans 7777 Etruscan Costume or

Etruscan Costume or Men and Women:Men and Women: c. 800–200

c. 800–200 b.c.b.c. 7777 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Men Men and and Women Women 7777 Etruscan Costume or Children: c.

Etruscan Costume or Children: c. 800–200800–200 b.c.b.c. 8080 The

The Romans Romans 8080 Historical

Social Lie Lie in in the the Roman Roman Empire Empire 8181 Fabrics

Fabrics and and Clothing Clothing Production Production 8181 Sources o Evidence or the Study o Roman Sources o Evidence or the Study o Roman

Costume 82 Costume 82 Roman

Roman Costume Costume or or Men Men and and Women Women 8383 The

(16)

(17)

exndd Conns exndd Conns ixix

Table 4.1

Table 4.1 The Appearance and Signicance o The Appearance and Signicance o Various

Various Types Types o o Togas Togas 8383 Contemporary Comments 4.1 Contemporary Comments 4.1 8585 Costume Components or Men: Costume Components or Men:

500

500 b.c.b.c.––a.d.a.d. 400 87400 87 Costume Components or

Costume Components or Women:Women: 500

500 b.c.b.c.––a.d.a.d. 400 87400 87 Costume Components or

Costume Components or Men and Women:Men and Women: 500

500 b.c.b.c.––a.d.a.d. 400 90400 90 Illustrated Table 4.1

Illustrated Table 4.1 Examples o HairstylesExamples o Hairstyles and Headdress Worn by Men

and Headdress Worn by Men and Womenand Women during

during the the Roman Roman Empire Empire 9191 Roman Costume or Children: 500

Roman Costume or Children: 500 b.c.b.c.––a.d.a.d. 400 92400 92 Military Costume or Men during the Roman

Military Costume or Men during the Roman Empire 92

Empire 92 Roman

Roman Costume Costume or or Special Special Events Events 9393 The

The Synthesis Synthesis 9393 Bridal

Bridal Costume Costume 9393 Religious

Religious Garb Garb 9393 Changes in Costume

Changes in Costume during the Declining Yearsduring the Declining Years o

o the the Roman Roman Empire Empire 9393 Summary 94

Summary 94

Dierences between Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Dierences between Greek, Etruscan, and Roman

Costume 94 Costume 94 Themes

Themes in in Etruscan Etruscan and and Roman Roman Dress Dress 9494 Visual Summary Table

Visual Summary Table 9595 Survivals

Survivals o o Etruscan Etruscan and and Roman Roman Dress Dress 9595 Notes 96

Notes 96 Selected

Selected Readings Readings 96 96

PART TWO

The

Middle

Ages

c.

300–1500

99

Decorative Arts

Decorative Arts TTableable 104104 CHAPTER FIVE

CHAPTER FIVE The

The Early Early Middle Middle Ages Ages c. c. 300–1300 300–1300 107107 Chronology

Chronology 106106 The

The Byzantine Byzantine Period Period c. c. 339–1453 339–1453 108108 Historical

Social Organization Organization in in the the Byzantine Byzantine Period Period 109109 Culture, Art, and Technology in the Byzantine Culture, Art, and Technology in the Byzantine

Period 109 Period 109

Byzantine Costume or Men:

Byzantine Costume or Men: a.d.a.d. 300–1450 110300–1450 110 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Men Men 110110 Byzantine Costume or Women:

Byzantine Costume or Women: a.d.a.d. 300–1453 113300–1453 113 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Women Women 113113 Byzantine Costume or Men and Women: Byzantine Costume or Men and Women:

a.d.

a.d. 300–1450 114300–1450 114 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Men Men and and Women Women 114114 Western Europe rom the Fall o the Roman

Western Europe rom the Fall o the Roman EmpireEmpire to

to a.d.a.d. 900 115900 115

Historical Background: The Fall o the Roman Historical Background: The Fall o the Roman

Empire 115 Empire 115

Historical Background: The Merovingian and Historical Background: The Merovingian and

Carolingian

Carolingian Dynasties Dynasties 115115 Sources

Sources o o Evidence Evidence about about Costume Costume 116116 Costume in Western Europe: Fall o the Roman Costume in Western Europe: Fall o the Roman

Empire to

Empire to a.d.a.d. 900 116900 116 The

The Production Production o o Cloth Cloth 116 116

Costume or Men: The Merovingian and Carolingian Costume or Men: The Merovingian and Carolingian

Dynasties 117 Dynasties 117

Costume Components or Men: The Merovingian Costume Components or Men: The Merovingian

Costume Components or Men: The Carolingian Costume Components or Men: The Carolingian

Period 117 Period 117 C

ConTemporaryonTemporaryCCommenTsommenTs5.15.1 118118

Costume or Women: The Merovingian and Costume or Women: The Merovingian and

Carolingian

Carolingian Dynasties Dynasties 118118

Costume Components or Women: The Merovingian Costume Components or Women: The Merovingian

Costume Components or

Costume Components or Women: The CarolingianWomen: The Carolingian Period 119

Period 119 Clerical

Clerical Costume Costume in in the the Early Early Middle Middle Ages Ages 119119 Dress

Dress o o Priests Priests 119119 Monastic

Monastic Dress Dress 120120 Historical

Historical Background: Background: The The 10th–13th 10th–13th Centuries Centuries 121121 The

The Feudal Feudal Monarchies Monarchies 121121 Political

Political Developments Developments in in Europe: Europe: 900–1300 900–1300 122122 The

The German German Dynasties Dynasties 122122 Anglo-Saxon

Anglo-Saxon and and Norman Norman Britain Britain 123123 The

The French French Kings Kings 123123 Factors

Factors Related Related to to Developments Developments in in Costume Costume 123123 The

The Crusades Crusades 123123 Medieval

(18)

(19)

x

x exndd Connsexndd Conns

T

Town own Lie Lie 124124 Early

Early Indications Indications o o FashiFashion on Changes Changes 124124 Fabric

Fabric Production Production 124124 Art 125

Art 125 Costume

Costume in in the the 10th 10th and and 11th 11th Centuries Centuries 126126 Costume Components or Men: 10th and 11th Costume Components or Men: 10th and 11th

Centuries 126 Centuries 126

Costume Components or Women: 10th and 11th Costume Components or Women: 10th and 11th

Centuries 128 Centuries 128 Costume or

Costume or Men Men and and Women: Women: 12th 12th Century Century 129129 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Men: Men: 12th 12th Century Century 130130 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Women: Women: 12th 12th Century Century 131131 Problems o Costume

Problems o Costume TTerminology in the 13therminology in the 13th Century 132

Century 132

Contemporary Comments 5.2 Contemporary Comments 5.2 133133 Table 5.1

Table 5.1 Old English and French CostumeOld English and French Costume Terms 134

Terms 134 Costume

Costume in in the the 13th 13th Century Century 135135 Costume

Costume or or Women: Women: 13th 13th Century Century 137137 Accessories o Dress or

Accessories o Dress or Men and Women:Men and Women: 10th–13th

10th–13th Centuries Centuries 138138 Military

Military Costume Costume 138138 Visual Summary Table Visual Summary Table 140140 Summary 141

Summary 141 Themes 141 Themes 141

Origins, Developments, and

Origins, Developments, and Survivals o ByzantineSurvivals o Byzantine and

and Early Early Medieval Medieval Styles Styles 141141 Notes 142

Notes 142 Selected

Selected Readings Readings 143143 CHAPTER SIX

CHAPTER SIX The

The Late Late Middle Middle Ages Ages c. 1300 c. 1300 –1500 –1500 145145 Chronology

Historical Background Background 146146 Medieval

Medieval Social Social Structure Structure 147147 The

The Peasant Peasant 147147 The

The Nobility Nobility 147147 The

The Bourgeoisie Bourgeoisie 148148

Contemporary Comments 6.1 Contemporary Comments 6.1 149149 Fabrics

Fabrics and and TTailors ailors 149149 Sources o

Sources o Evidence Evidence or or the Study the Study o o Costume Costume 150150 Art 150

Art 150 Documentary

Documentary Sources Sources 150150

Fashion

Fashion Change Change Becomes Becomes Evident Evident 151151 Costume

Costume or or Men: Men: 14th 14th Century Century 151151 Costume

Costume or or Women: Women: 14th 14th Century Century 155155 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Women: Women: 14th 14th Century Century 155155 Illustrated Table 6.1

Illustrated Table 6.1 Late Middle AgesLate Middle Ages Accessories 156

Accessories 156 Costume or

Costume or Men Men and Wand Women: omen: 15th C15th Century entury 158158 Costume

Costume or or Men: Men: 15th 15th Century Century 158158 Contemporary Comments 6.2 Contemporary Comments 6.2 159159

Costume

Costume or or Women: Women: 15th 15th Century Century 162162 Illustrated Table 6.2

Illustrated Table 6.2 Evolution and Styles o Evolution and Styles o 15th-Century

15th-Century Headdress Headdress or or Women Women 167167 Costume

Costume or or Children: Children: 14th 14th and and 15th 15th Centuries Centuries 168168 Dress

Dress or or Rites Rites o o Passage Passage 168168 Costume

Costume or or Specialized Specialized Occupations Occupations 169169 Student

Student Dress Dress 169169 Military

Military Dress Dress 169169 Summary 170 Summary 170 Themes 170 Themes 170

Visual Summary Table Visual Summary Table 171171

Survivals

Survivals o Sto Styles rom yles rom the the Late Late Middle Ages Middle Ages 172172 Notes 172

Notes 172 Selected

PART THREE

The

Renaissance

c.

1400–1600

175

Decorative Arts

Decorative Arts TTableable 178178 CHAPTER SEVEN

CHAPTER SEVEN The

The Italian Italian Renaissance Renaissance c. c. 1400–1600 1400–1600 181181 Chronology

Historical Background Background 182182 The P

The Political olitical Organization Organization in in Renaissance Renaissance Italy Italy 182182 Lie

Lie in in Renaissance Renaissance Italy Italy 182182 The

The Production Production and and Acquisition Acquisition o o TTextiles extiles 183183 The

The Cloth Cloth Industries Industries in in Renaissance Renaissance Italy Italy 183183 The

The Manuacture Manuacture and and Acquisition Acquisition o o Clothing Clothing 184184 Cross-Cu

Cross-Cultural ltural Infuences Infuences rom rom the Mthe Middle iddle East East 184184 Sources

Sources o o Evidence Evidence about about Costume Costume 184184 C

ConTemporaryonTemporaryCCommenTsommenTs7.17.1 185185 Costume

Costume or or Men Men and and Women: Women: 1400–1600 1400–1600 185185 Costume

Costume or or Men: Men: 1400–1450 1400–1450 185185 Costume

(20)

(21)

(22)

(23)

xii

xii exndd Connsexndd Conns

Some

Some Distinctive Distinctive Costume Costume TTraditions raditions 241241 Puritan

Puritan Costume Costume 241241 Spanish

Spanish Costume Costume 242242

Production and Acquisition o Textiles and Production and Acquisition o Textiles and

Clothing 242 Clothing 242 Sources

Sources o o Evidence Evidence o o Historic Historic Costume Costume 243243 Costume

Costume or or Men: Men: 1625–1650 1625–1650 244244 Table 9.1

Table 9.1 Terms Describing Men’s Trouser-typeTerms Describing Men’s Trouser-type Garments:

Garments: 16th 16th Century Century to to 19th 19th Century Century 245245 Costume

Costume or or Men: Men: 1650–1680 1650–1680 247247 Contemporary Comments 9.1 Contemporary Comments 9.1 249249

Costume

Costume or or Women: Women: 1630–1660 1630–1660 251251 Illustrated Table 9.1

Illustrated Table 9.1 17th-century 17th-century Accessories Accessories 252252 Costume

Costume or or Women: Women: 1660–1680 1660–1680 254254 Costume

Costume or Mor Men and en and Women: Women: 17th C17th Century entury 256 256 Contemporary Comments 9.2

Contemporary Comments 9.2 257257 Costume

Costume or or Children: Children: 17th 17th Century Century 258258 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Children Children 259259 Summary 260

Survivals

Survivals o o 17th 17th Century Century Styles Styles 262262 Notes 263

Notes 263 Selected

Selected Readings Readings 263263 CHAPTER TEN

CHAPTER TEN The

The Eighteenth Eighteenth Century Century 1700–1790 1700–1790 265265 Chronology

Historical Background Background 266266 The

The Arts Arts 266 266 Social

Social Lie Lie in in 18th-century 18th-century France France 267267 Contemporary Comments 10.1

Contemporary Comments 10.1 268268 Social Lie o the Afuent in 18th-century Social Lie o the Afuent in 18th-century

England 268 England 268

Production and Acquisition o Clothing Production and Acquisition o Clothing

and

and TTextileextiles s 269269 Advances

Advances in in TTextile extile TTechnology echnology 269269 Home

Home versus versus Factory Factory Production Production o o Cloth Cloth 269269 Clothing

Clothing Manuacture Manuacture and and Sale Sale 269269

Sources

Sources o o Inormation Inormation about about Costume Costume 270270 The

The American American Colonies Colonies in in the the 18th 18th Century Century 270270 Urban

Urban Clothing Clothing Styles Styles 270270 Working-class

Working-class and and Rural Rural Dress Dress 270270

Some Infuences on Costume in the 18th Century Some Infuences on Costume in the 18th Century

271 271 Costume

Costume or or Men: Men: Up Up to to Mid-18th Mid-18th Century Century 272272 Contemporary Comments 10.2

Contemporary Comments 10.2 273273 Changes in Men

Changes in Men’s Costume Ater the ’s Costume Ater the Mid-18thMid-18th Century 274

Century 274 Costume

Costume or or Men: Men: Ater Ater the the Mid-18th Mid-18th Century Century 275275 Illustrated Table 10.1

Illustrated Table 10.1 18th-Century Accessories18th-Century Accessories 278

278 Costume

Costume or or Women: Women: 1760–1790 1760–1790 282282 Contemporary Comments 10.3

Contemporary Comments 10.3 283283 Other Costume Components or Women: Other Costume Components or Women:

The

The 18th 18th Century Century 284284 Illustrated Table 10.2

Illustrated Table 10.2 Typical Women’s HairstylesTypical Women’s Hairstyles and

and Headdress Headdress in in the the 18th 18th Century Century 286286 Costumes or Active Sports

Costumes or Active Sports or Men and Women:or Men and Women: The

The 18th 18th Century Century 287287 Costume

Costume or or Children: Children: The The 18th 18th Century Century 287287 First

First Hal Hal o o the the 18th 18th Century Century 287287 Second

Second Hal Hal o o the the 18th 18th Century Century 288288 Summary 290

Survivals

Survivals o o 18th 18th Century Century Dress Dress 292292 Notes 292

Notes 292 Selected

PART FIVE

The

Nineteenth

Century

1800–1900

295

Historical

Historical Background Background 295295 France 295

France 295 England 295 England 295 Italy

Italy and and Austria Austria 295295 The

The United United States States 296 296 Industrialization 299 Industrialization 299

(24)

(25)

exndd Conns exndd Conns xiiixiii

Cross-Cultural

Cross-Cultural Infuences Infuences on on Fashion Fashion 299299 T

Textiles extiles rom rom India India 299299 Resumption

Resumption o o TTrade rade with with Japan Japan 300300 Morality

Morality and and Values Values in the in the 19th C19th Century entury 301301 Dress

Dress Reorm Reorm or or Women Women 302302 Changes

Changes in in Clothing Clothing or or Men Men 302302 The

The End End o o an an Age Age 303303 Notes 303

Notes 303 Decorative Arts

Decorative Arts TTableable 304304 CHAPTER ELEVEN

CHAPTER ELEVEN

The Directoire Period and the Empire The Directoire Period and the Empire PeriodPeriod 1790–1820 307

1790–1820 307 Chronology Chronology 306306 Historical

Historical Background Background 308308 France:

France: The The Revolution Revolution and and the the Directory Directory 308308 France:

France: The The Empire Empire 310310 England 311

England 311

The

The United United States States 313313 The Arts

The Arts and and Costume StylCostume Styles o es o the Pthe Period eriod 313313 The

The Revolution Revolution in in MenMen’s ’s Clothes Clothes 314314 Production and Acquisition o Clothing Production and Acquisition o Clothing

and

and TTextileextiles s 314314 Sources

Sources o o Inormation Inormation about about Costume Costume 315315 Costume or Women: Directoire and Empire Costume or Women: Directoire and Empire

Periods 315 Periods 315 Illustrated Table 11.1

Illustrated Table 11.1 Typical Women’s HairstylesTypical Women’s Hairstyles and

and Headdress Headdress in in the the Empire Empire Period Period 318318 Costume or Men: Directoire and Empire Costume or Men: Directoire and Empire

Periods 319 Periods 319 Illustrated Table 11.2

Illustrated Table 11.2 Empire Period:Empire Period: Accessories 320

Accessories 320 Costume

Costume or or Children: Children: The The Empire Empire Period Period 323323 Costume

Costume or or Girls Girls 323323 Costume

Costume or or Boys Boys 323323 Summary 323

Survivals

Survivals o o Empire Empire Style Style Costume Costume 324324 Notes 324

Notes 324 Selected

CHAPTER TWELVE CHAPTER TWELVE The

The Romantic Romantic Period Period 1820–1850 1820–1850 327327 Chronology

Historical Background Background 328328 England 328

England 328 France 328 France 328 The

The United United States States 329329 Women

Women’s S’s Social ocial Roles and Roles and Clothing SClothing Styles tyles 330330 Manuacture and Acquisition o Clothing and Manuacture and Acquisition o Clothing and

Textiles 330 Textiles 330 Sources

Sources o o Evidence Evidence about about Costume Costume 330330 Costume

Costume or or Women: Women: The The Romantic Romantic Period Period 331331 Costume

Illustrated Table 12.1 Examples o Women’sExamples o Women’s Hairstyles

Hairstyles and and Headdress: Headdress: 1820–1850 1820–1850 337337 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Women: Women: 1820–1850 1820–1850 338338 Illustrated Table 12.2

Illustrated Table 12.2 Romantic Period:Romantic Period: Accessories 339

Accessories 339 Costume

Costume or or Men: Men: The The Romantic Romantic Period Period 340340 Costume

Costume or or Children: Children: The The Romantic Romantic Period Period 344344 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Girls Girls 345345 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Boys Boys 345345 Contemporary Comments 12.1 Contemporary Comments 12.1 346346 Clothing

Clothing or or Slaves Slaves in in North North America America 347347 Summary 348

Survivals

Survivals o o Romantic Romantic Period Period Costume Costume Styles Styles 350350 Notes 350

Notes 350 Selected

Selected Readings Readings 351351 CHAPTER THIRTEEN CHAPTER THIRTEEN The

The CrinolinCrinoline e Period Period 1850–1869 1850–1869 353353 Chronology

Historical Background Background 354354 Worth

Worth and and the the Paris Paris Couture Couture 354354 England 354

England 354 France 354 France 354

(26)

(27)

(28)

(29)

exndd Conns exndd Conns xx

CHAPTER FIFTEEN CHAPTER FIFTEEN

The Edwardian Period and World War I The Edwardian Period and World War I 1900–1920 417

The United United States States 418418

Great Britain and France at the

Great Britain and France at the TTurn o theurn o the Century 418

Century 418 World

World War War I I 418418 The Eect

The Eect o the o the War War on Fon Fashions ashions 419419 Infuences

Infuences on on Fashion Fashion 419419 The

The French French Couture Couture and and Paul Paul Poiret Poiret 419419 Contemporary Comments 15.1

Contemporary Comments 15.1 420420 Fortuny 421

Fortuny 421 Oriental

Oriental Infuences Infuences on on Art Art and and Fashion Fashion 422422 The

The Changing Changing Social Social Roles Roles o o American American Women Women 422422 The

The Automobile Automobile 423423 American

American High High Society Society 424424 The

The Production Production and and Acquisition Acquisition o o Clothing Clothing 424424 Sources

Sources o o Inormation Inormation About About Costume Costume 424424 Costume

Illustrated Table 15.1 Selected Undergarments orSelected Undergarments or Women,

Women, Men, Men, and and Children: Children: 1900–1920 1900–1920 426426 Illustrated Table 15.2

Illustrated Table 15.2 Selected Hairstyles and HatsSelected Hairstyles and Hats or

or Women: Women: 1900–1920 1900–1920 429429 Illustrated Table 15.3

Illustrated Table 15.3 Selected Examples o Selected Examples o Footwear

Footwear or or Women: Women: 1900–1920 1900–1920 430430 Illustrated Table 15.4

Illustrated Table 15.4 Accessories: Accessories: 1900–1920 1900–1920 431431 Costume

Costume or or Women: Women: 1918–1920 1918–1920 436 436 Costume

Costume or or Children: Children: 1900–1920 1900–1920 441441 Costume

Costume or or Boys Boys 442442 Costume

Costume or or Boys Boys and and Girls Girls 442442 Summary 443

Summary 443 Themes 443 Themes 443 Survivals

Survivals o Edwardiao Edwardian and n and World World War War I StyI Styles les 443443 Visual Summary Table

Visual Summary Table 444444 Notes 445

Notes 445 Selected

CHAPTER SIXTEEN CHAPTER SIXTEEN

The Twenties, Thirties, and World War II The Twenties, Thirties, and World War II 1920–1947 447

The Twenties Twenties 448448 Changes in

Changes in the Sociathe Social Lie l Lie o the o the Twenties Twenties 449449 The

The Thirties Thirties 450450

World

World War War II II 451451 Some

Some Infuences Infuences on on Fashions Fashions 451451 The

The Movies Movies 451451

Royalty

Royalty and and Cae Cae Society Society 454454 Sports 454

Sports 454 The

The Automobile Automobile 454454

Production and Acquisition o Textiles and Production and Acquisition o Textiles and

Clothing 454 Clothing 454 T

Technological echnological Developments Developments Aecting Aecting Fashion Fashion 454454 The

The French French Couture Couture 455455 American

American Designers Designers 457457 Table 16.1

Table 16.1 Designers o the French Couture:Designers o the French Couture: 1920–1947 458

1920–1947 458 Théâtre

Théâtre de de la la Mode Mode 461461

Art Movements and Their Infuence on Art Movements and Their Infuence on

Fashion 462 Fashion 462 Art

Art Deco Deco 462462 Surrealism 462 Surrealism 462 Sources

Sources o o Inormation Inormation about about Costume Costume 462462 Costume

Illustrated Table 16.1 Selected UndergarmentsSelected Undergarments or

or Women, Women, Men, Men, and and Boys: Boys: 1920–1947 1920–1947 464464 Illustrated Table 16.2

Illustrated Table 16.2 Selected Hairstyles and HatsSelected Hairstyles and Hats or

or Women: Women: 1920–1947 1920–1947 468468 Costume

Illustrated Table 16.3 Selected Examples o Selected Examples o Footwear

Footwear or or Women: Women: 1920–1947 1920–1947 471471 Costume

Illustrated Table 16.4 Accessories: 1920–1947Accessories: 1920–1947 479

479 Costume

(30)

(31)

xi

xi exndd Connsexndd Conns

Costume

Costume or or Boys Boys and and Girls Girls 488488 Illustrated Table 16.5

Illustrated Table 16.5 ChildrenChildren’s ’s Clothing Clothing Styles:Styles: 1920–1938 489

1920–1938 489 Costume

Costume or or the the TTeenage eenage Market Market 490490 Summary 490

Survivals

Survivals o Styo Styles o les o the the 1920s and 1920s and 1930s 1930s 492492 Notes 492

Notes 492 Selected

Selected Readings Readings 493493 CHAPTER SEVENTEEN CHAPTER SEVENTEEN The New Look:

The New Look: FashFashion Conormity Preailsion Conormity Preails 1947–1960 495

Historical Background Background 496496 International

International Developments: Developments: 1947–1960 1947–1960 496 496 The

The United United States: States: 1947–1960 1947–1960 497497 Infuences

Infuences on on Fashion Fashion 499499 The

The Silent Silent Generation Generation Moves Moves to to the the Suburbs Suburbs 499499 Fashio

Fashion n Inuences Inuences rom rom the the YYoung oung 499499 The

The Impact Impact o o TTelevision elevision 500500 Internationalism 500 Internationalism 500

Production and Acquisition o Clothing and Production and Acquisition o Clothing and

Textiles 502 Textiles 502 The

The Fabric Fabric Revolution Revolution 502502 The

The Changing Changing Couture Couture 502502 The

The American American Mass Mass Market Market 504504 Table 17.1

Table 17.1 Infuential Paris-Based Designers,Infuential Paris-Based Designers, 1947–1960 504

1947–1960 504 New

New Centers Centers o o Fashion Fashion Design Design 505505 Costume

Costume or or Women: Women: 1947–1960 1947–1960 505505 Table 17.2

Table 17.2 Some Major American Fashion DesignersSome Major American Fashion Designers Who Came to Prominence during

Who Came to Prominence during World WWorld War IIar II and

and Were Were Important Important in in the the 1950s 1950s 506506 Style

Style Features Features o o the the New New Look Look 507507 Costume

Costume or or Women: Women: 1947–1954 1947–1954 507507 Contemporary Comments 17.1

Contemporary Comments 17.1 508508 Illustrated Table 17.1

Illustrated Table 17.1 Selected Undergarments orSelected Undergarments or Women,

Women, Men, Men, and and Boys: Boys: 1947–1960 1947–1960 509509

Illustrated Table 17.2

Illustrated Table 17.2 Typical Hats or Women:Typical Hats or Women: 1947–1960 515

1947–1960 515 Illustrated Table 17.3

Illustrated Table 17.3 Selected Examples o Selected Examples o Popular

Popular Footwear: Footwear: 1947–1960 1947–1960 516516 Illustrated Table 17.4

Illustrated Table 17.4 Accessories: Accessories: 1947–1960 1947–1960 517517 Signs

Signs o o Silhouette Silhouette Changes: Changes: 1954–1960 1954–1960 518518 Costume

Costume or or Men: Men: 1947–1960 1947–1960 519519 Clothing

Clothing or or Active Active Sports Sports 522522 Costume

Costume or or Children: Children: 1947–1960 1947–1960 523523 Costume

Costume or or Inants Inants and and Preschool Preschool Children Children 523523 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Girls Girls 523523 Illustrated Table 17.5

Illustrated Table 17.5 ChildrenChildren’s ’s Clothing Styles:Clothing Styles: 1947–1960 524

1947–1960 524 Costume

Summary 525 Themes 525 Themes 525 Survival

Survival o o New New Look Look Styles Styles 525525 Visual Summary Table

Visual Summary Table 526526 Notes 527

Notes 527 Selected

Selected Readings Readings 527527 CHAPTER EIGHTEEN CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

The Sixties and Seenties: Style

The Sixties and Seenties: Style TTribes Emergeribes Emerge 1960–1980 529

Historical Background Background 530530 Europe

Europe and and the the Soviet Soviet Union Union 530530 The

The Middle Middle East East 530530 Arica

Arica and and the the End End o o Colonialism Colonialism 530530 The Emergence

The Emergence o o Japan Japan as as an an Economic PEconomic Power ower 530530 The

The United United States States 531531 The

The Impact Impact o o Social Social Change Change on on Fashion Fashion 535535 Style

Style TTribes ribes and and Street Street Styles Styles 535535 Some

Some Style Style TTribes ribes o o 1960–1980 1960–1980 535535 The

The WomenWomen’s ’s Movement Movement 538538 The

The Civil Civil Rights Rights Movement Movement 539539 Other

Other Infuences Infuences in in Fashion Fashion 539539 The

The White White House House Inuences Inuences Styles Styles 539539 Table 18.1

Table 18.1 Some Media Infuences on Some Media Infuences on Fashion:Fashion: 1960–1980 540

1960–1980 540 Political

(32)

(33)

exndd Conns exndd Conns xiixii

The

The Space Space Age Age 541541 The

The Fine Fine Arts Arts 542542 Ethnic

Ethnic Looks Looks 543543 The

The Changing Changing Fashion Fashion Industry Industry 543543 Increasing

Increasing Variety Variety in in Fashion Fashion Segments Segments 543543 Attempts

Attempts to to Curb Curb Fashion Fashion Changes Changes 544544 Changes

Changes in in Fashion Fashion Design Design 544544 Contemporary Comments 18.1 Contemporary Comments 18.1 545545

Labeling

Labeling and and Licensing Licensing 546 546 Designers

Designers o o MenMen’s ’s Clothing Clothing 546 546 Costume

Costume or or Women: Women: 1960–1980 1960–1980 546546 Table 18.2

Table 18.2 Infuential Designers in Paris and OtherInfuential Designers in Paris and Other Fashion

Fashion Centers: Centers: 1960–1980 1960–1980 547547 Costume

Illustrated Table 18.1 Selected UndergarmentsSelected Undergarments or

or Women Women and and Men: Men: 1960–1980 1960–1980 551551 Illustrated Table 18.2

Illustrated Table 18.2 TTypical Hats ypical Hats and Hairstylesand Hairstyles or

or Women: Women: 1960–1980 1960–1980 558558 Illustrated Table 18.3

Illustrated Table 18.3 Selected ExamplesSelected Examples o Popular Footwear or Women and Men: o Popular Footwear or Women and Men: 1960–1980 559

Illustrated Table 18.4 Accessories:Accessories: 1960–1980 560

1960–1980 560 The

The Introduction Introduction o o the the Midi: Midi: 1970–1974 1970–1974 561561 Changes

Changes in in Costume Costume or or Women: Women: 1974–1980 1974–1980 562562 Contemporary Comments 18.2

Contemporary Comments 18.2 563563 Costume

Costume or or Children: Children: 1960–1980 1960–1980 572572 Inants

Inants and and TToddlers oddlers 572572 Preschool

Preschool and and School-Age School-Age Children Children 572572 Costume

Costume or or Girls Girls 572572 Illustrated Table 18.5

1960–1980 573 Costume

Survivals

Survivals o o Styles Styles o o 1960–1980 1960–1980 576 576 Notes 576

Notes 576 Selected

Selected Readings Readings 576 576

CHAPTER NINETEEN CHAPTER NINETEEN

The Eighties, the Nineties, and

The Eighties, the Nineties, and the Twenty-the Twenty-frstfrst Century

Century 1980–2008 1980–2008 579579 Chronology

Historical Background: Background: International International 580580 The

The Cold Cold War War Ends Ends 580580 Progress

Progress Continues Continues toward toward European European Union Union 580580 The

The Middle Middle East East 580580 Japanese

Japanese Economic Economic Inuences Inuences 581581 Historical

Historical Background: Background: United United States States 582582 Political

Political and and Economic Economic Developments Developments 582582 Energy

Energy and and Environmental Environmental Issues Issues 583583 The

The Changing Changing American American Family Family 585585 Changes

Changes in in the the Roles Roles o o Women Women 586 586 The

The Computer Computer Revolution Revolution 586 586 The

The New New Immigrants Immigrants 587587 AIDS 588

AIDS 588 The

The Fashion Fashion Industry Industry Undergoes Undergoes Changes Changes 589589 Table 19.1

Table 19.1 Some Style Tribes and Their Impact onSome Style Tribes and Their Impact on Mainstream

Mainstream Fashion Fashion 590590 Postmodernism 592 Postmodernism 592 Elements

Elements o o the the Fashion Fashion System System 592592 The Role o Haute Couture in the 1980s and The Role o Haute Couture in the 1980s and

1990s 593 1990s 593 Ready-to-Wear 594 Ready-to-Wear 594 Table 19.2

Table 19.2 Some Prominent DesignersSome Prominent Designers

Working in Paris and Other Fashion Centers: Working in Paris and Other Fashion Centers: 1980–2008 596

1980–2008 596

Changes in the Production and Retailing o Changes in the Production and Retailing o

Apparel 598 Apparel 598 Table 19.3

Table 19.3 Some American Designers Who BecameSome American Designers Who Became Prominent

Prominent in in the the Period Period 1980–2008 1980–2008 600600 The Origins

The Origins o Major Fashion Trends o o Major Fashion Trends o 1980–2008 602

1980–2008 602 Retro

Retro Fashions Fashions 602602

Various

Various Social Social Groups Groups Inuence FInuence Fashion ashion 604604 Current

Current Events Events 607607 The

The Media Media as as FashioFashion n Inuences Inuences 608608 Table 19.4

Table 19.4 Some Media Infuences on Some Media Infuences on Fashion:Fashion: 1980–2008 609

1980–2008 609 Inuences

(34)

(35)

xiii

xiii exndd Connsexndd Conns

Demographic

Demographic Changes Changes 610610 Contemporary Comments 19.2 Contemporary Comments 19.2 611611

The

The TTrend rend to to Casual Casual Dress Dress 612612 High-Tech

High-Tech Fabrics Fabrics 612612 Contemporary Comments 19.3 Contemporary Comments 19.3 614614

Fashio

Fashionable nable Fabrics Fabrics 615615 Sports

Sports and and Activewear Activewear 615615 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Women: Women: 1980–1995 1980–1995 616 616 Illustrated Table 19.1

Illustrated Table 19.1 Selected Undergarments orSelected Undergarments or Women

Women and and Men: Men: 1980–2008 1980–2008 619619 Illustrated Table 19.2

Illustrated Table 19.2 TTypical ypical HairstylesHairstyles and Headcoverings or Women and and Headcoverings or Women and Men:Men: 1980–2008 624

Illustrated Table 19.3 Selected ExamplesSelected Examples o Popular Footwear or

o Popular Footwear or Women, Men,Women, Men, and

and Children: Children: 1980–2008 1980–2008 626626 Costume

Illustrated Table 19.4 Accessories:Accessories: 1980–2008 629

1980–2008 629

Costume

Costume Components Components or or Men: Men: 1974–2008 1974–2008 635635 Costume

Costume or or Children: Children: 1980–2008 1980–2008 641641 Inants

Inants and and Preschool-Age Preschool-Age Children Children 641641 School-Age Children: Trends Aecting Boys and School-Age Children: Trends Aecting Boys and

Girls 642 Girls 642 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Girls Girls 643643 Costume

Costume Components Components or or Boys Boys 643643 Illustrated Table 19.5

1980–2008 644 Summary 646 Summary 646

New

New Views Views o o Fashion Fashion 648648 Notes 650

Notes 650 Selected

Selected Readings Readings 651651 Bibliography 652 Bibliography 652 Credits 659 Credits 659 Index 661 Index 661

(36)

(37)

xix xix

W

ith each new edition o a book some ele-ith each new edition o a book some ele-ments o that book change. And those ments o that book change. And those changes may provide an opportunity to changes may provide an opportunity to ocus on some aspect that adds to the useulness o ocus on some aspect that adds to the useulness o the publication.

the publication. Survey o Historic CostumeSurvey o Historic Costume has, romhas, rom its beginnings, taken seriously the need to accompany its beginnings, taken seriously the need to accompany the text with appropriate illustrations. The history o the text with appropriate illustrations. The history o costume is in major part a visual history. In this th costume is in major part a visual history. In this th edition, the major change is the incorporation o ull edition, the major change is the incorporation o ull color throughout the book. Although a separate color color throughout the book. Although a separate color section has been a eature o previous editions, section has been a eature o previous editions, havinghaving the color illustrations throughout the book enriches the color illustrations throughout the book enriches the text and the concepts.

the text and the concepts. Survey o Historic Costume

Survey o Historic Costume is intended or use as ais intended or use as a basic text or readers who desire an overview o the h basic text or readers who desire an overview o the h is- is-tory o costume in the West. We continue to tory o costume in the West. We continue to empha-size

size A History o Western DressA History o Western Dress so that readers will rec-so that readers will rec-ognize that the book ocuses on historic costume in ognize that the book ocuses on historic costume in the Western world and makes no attempt to survey the the Western world and makes no attempt to survey the vast topic o historic costume in all parts o the world. vast topic o historic costume in all parts o the world. Our purpose is to present a

Our purpose is to present a surveysurvey o this vast subjecto this vast subject rather than an innitely detailed picture. At the same rather than an innitely detailed picture. At the same time, it is our intention to make that picture as time, it is our intention to make that picture as com-plete as possible within the limitations o space. plete as possible within the limitations o space.

All chapters ater the introduction o chapter 1 begin All chapters ater the introduction o chapter 1 begin with a chronology o important events during the time with a chronology o important events during the time period covered in the chapter. A new element in this period covered in the chapter. A new element in this edition is the inclusion o illustrations that relate to edition is the inclusion o illustrations that relate to aspects o some o the

aspects o some o the items in the chronology. Theseitems in the chronology. These photographs are joined to the relevant events with photographs are joined to the relevant events with a dotted line. Six other groups o photographs are a dotted line. Six other groups o photographs are located in

located in Decorative and Fine Arts Decorative and Fine Arts TTables,ables, which appearwhich appear at the end o each o the six parts into which the book at the end o each o the six parts into which the book is divided. These illustrations provide a sense o the is divided. These illustrations provide a sense o the aesthetic context that surrounded individuals living at aesthetic context that surrounded individuals living at this time. The objects shown range rom textiles o the this time. The objects shown range rom textiles o the period, urniture, domestic and monumental period, urniture, domestic and monumental architec-ture to sculparchitec-ture and paintings by some o the greatest ture to sculpture and paintings by some o the greatest

artists o the era. Taken together, these new color artists o the era. Taken together, these new color ea-tures will help the reader enter more ully into these tures will help the reader enter more ully into these periods o Western history.

periods o Western history.

Dress o each era must be viewed within the Dress o each era must be viewed within the con-text o the period. To assist readers who may have a text o the period. To assist readers who may have a limited background in history, a brie summary o limited background in history, a brie summary o thethe major historical developments related to the chapter major historical developments related to the chapter is provided. Clothing is a part o the basic equipment is provided. Clothing is a part o the basic equipment or everyday lie, and so in each chapter brie note is or everyday lie, and so in each chapter brie note is made o some o the important aspects o the lie o made o some o the important aspects o the lie o the people o the time. Where the arts, specic the people o the time. Where the arts, specic indi-viduals, events, or societal values can be seen to viduals, events, or societal values can be seen to infu-ence styles, these are discussed. The technology and ence styles, these are discussed. The technology and economy o the production and distribution o abrics economy o the production and distribution o abrics oten infuence clothing; thereore, changes in oten infuence clothing; thereore, changes in tech-nology or the making o cloth and clothes and in nology or the making o cloth and clothes and in the economic systems o production and distribution the economic systems o production and distribution are noted where appropriate. As the ashion industry are noted where appropriate. As the ashion industry becomes more complex in the 20th century, changes becomes more complex in the 20th century, changes in its organization and unction are stressed.

in its organization and unction are stressed.

Ater the setting has been delineated, specic styles Ater the setting has been delineated, specic styles o each period worn by men, by women, and by o each period worn by men, by women, and by chil-dren are described. Organization and

dren are described. Organization and contents are par-contents are par-allel in all chapters, and all elements o

allel in all chapters, and all elements o dress, rangingdress, ranging rom undergarments to accessories, are included or rom undergarments to accessories, are included or every period. In this way a rather detailed picture o every period. In this way a rather detailed picture o costume can be provided even within the space lim costume can be provided even within the space lim ita- ita-tions imposed on a single volume.

tions imposed on a single volume.

We also believe that it is important or readers to We also believe that it is important or readers to have depictions o costume rom original source have depictions o costume rom original source mate-rials available not only to illustrate some o the rials available not only to illustrate some o the unamil-iar terms, but also to supplement the general, survey iar terms, but also to supplement the general, survey approach o the text. The captions o the illustrations approach o the text. The captions o the illustrations not only identiy various parts o the costume and not only identiy various parts o the costume and pro-vide the contemporary names or elements o the styles, vide the contemporary names or elements o the styles, but also identiy the aspects o the pictures that provide but also identiy the aspects o the pictures that provide supporting evidence to the costume historian o the supporting evidence to the costume historian o the nature o costume at this period. The material in the nature o costume at this period. The material in the

P R E F A C E

(38)