Illustrated TTable 3.1able 3.1
Illustrated
Illustrated TTable 3.1able 3.1
Youthul male gure with Youthul male gure with short, curly hair rom short, curly hair rom
Classical Period Classical Period
Bearded philosopher rom Bearded philosopher rom
Classical Period Classical Period
Youth wearing a petasos Youth wearing a petasos
Youth wearing a Youth wearing a Phrygian bonnet Phrygian bonnet Woman’s hairstyle Woman’s hairstyle depicted in Minoan depicted in Minoan wall painting wall painting Wom
Women’s hairstyles depicted on en’s hairstyles depicted on Archaic Greek sculptureArchaic Greek sculpture
Women’s hairstyles and headdress rom Classical Period depicted on vase paintings Women’s hairstyles and headdress rom Classical Period depicted on vase paintings
Thomas Hope, reproduced courtesy o Dover Publications, Inc. Thomas Hope, reproduced courtesy o Dover Publications, Inc.
CHAPTER THREE Crete and Greece CHAPTER THREE Crete and Greece 6767
FOOTWEAR FOOTWEAR
Both men and women wore sandals. Men also wore Both men and women wore sandals. Men also wore ftted shoes, ankle high or
ftted shoes, ankle high or high mid-cal length; or, orhigh mid-cal length; or, or travel or warare, leather boots that laced up the ront. travel or warare, leather boots that laced up the ront. (See Figures 3.12, and 3.13.)
(See Figures 3.12, and 3.13.) JEWELRY JEWELRY
More oten worn by women than men, jewelry con- More oten worn by women than men, jewelry con- sisted o necklaces, earrings, rings, decorative pins or sisted o necklaces, earrings, rings, decorative pins or astening the chiton, and brooches.
astening the chiton, and brooches. COSMETICS COSMETICS
Statues and vase paintings do not reveal the extent to Statues and vase paintings do not reveal the extent to which makeup was worn. Writings o the period do which makeup was worn. Writings o the period do record the use o perumes. Contemporary Comments record the use o perumes. Contemporary Comments 3.2, page 69, reprints passages rom
3.2, page 69, reprints passages rom The IliadThe Iliad andand TheThe Odyssey
Odyssey that describe not only some o the clothingthat describe not only some o the clothing worn by women, but also cosmetics and jewels. worn by women, but also cosmetics and jewels.
G R E E k C O S T u M E F O R
G R E E k C O S T u M E F O R
C H I L D R E N : 6 5 0 – 3 0 0
C H I L D R E N : 6 5 0 – 3 0 0
b . c .b . c .Inants were wrapped in
Inants were wrapped inswaddling clothesswaddling clothes (bands o (bands o abric wrapped around the body) and wore close-ft- abric wrapped around the body) and wore close-ft- ting, peaked caps. Swaddling babies was a common ting, peaked caps. Swaddling babies was a common practice throughout Europe until the 19th century practice throughout Europe until the 19th century and was thought to prevent deormity o children’s and was thought to prevent deormity o children’s limbs. As the Greeks emphasized bodily perection, limbs. As the Greeks emphasized bodily perection, it may be that
it may be that they held similar belies. A ew repre-they held similar belies. A ew repre-
FIGuRE 3.12
FIGuRE 3.12 Greek youth wearing himation.Greek youth wearing himation.(Courtesy of (Courtesy of Photo Arts Company.)
Photo Arts Company.)
FIGuRE 3.13
FIGuRE 3.13 5th century5th centurybb..cc..Greek vase shows (from left to right) a woman in an Ionic chiton with a shawl drawnGreek vase shows (from left to right) a woman in an Ionic chiton with a shawl drawn
over her head; a naked cupid; a goddess in a Doric chiton; a woman in an Ionic chiton, a veil over her head and a over her head; a naked cupid; a goddess in a Doric chiton; a woman in an Ionic chiton, a veil over her head and a cloak over her shoulders; two men in chlamys and petasos; and a man in a himation. Older men are bearded, the cloak over her shoulders; two men in chlamys and petasos; and a man in a himation. Older men are bearded, the youth is clean shaven.
68
68 PART ONE The Ancient WorldPART ONE The Ancient World
sentations o inants, perhaps older ones, show them sentations o inants, perhaps older ones, show them wrapped in loose cloth draperies rather than in swad- wrapped in loose cloth draperies rather than in swad- dling bands. dling bands. C O S T u M E C O M P O N E N T S C O S T u M E C O M P O N E N T S F O R C H I L D R E N F O R C H I L D R E N
Sometimes small boys are depicted in the nude. Sometimes small boys are depicted in the nude. School-age boys wore short, belted or unbelted chi- School-age boys wore short, belted or unbelted chi- tons. Girls’ chitons were arranged much as those o tons. Girls’ chitons were arranged much as those o older women and belted in a variety o ways. Boys and older women and belted in a variety o ways. Boys and girls wore himations; those or girls were worn over a girls wore himations; those or girls were worn over a chiton and or boys, either alone or over a chiton. chiton and or boys, either alone or over a chiton.
For protection outdoors, art o the period depicts For protection outdoors, art o the period depicts small, rectangular cloaks with clasps on the right small, rectangular cloaks with clasps on the right shoulder. Another warm garment was a long cape with shoulder. Another warm garment was a long cape with a pointed hood that either closed in ront or had an a pointed hood that either closed in ront or had an opening through which it could be slipped
opening through which it could be slipped over the head.
over the head.
HAIR AND HEADDRESS HAIR AND HEADDRESS
Small children and boys had short hair. Small children and boys had short hair. Older girls dressed their hair the same ways Older girls dressed their hair the same ways as women. Boys and girls wore a at-crowned as women. Boys and girls wore a at-crowned hat with a heavy roll as a
hat with a heavy roll as a brim. Girls wore a high,brim. Girls wore a high, peaked hat with a at, sti brim.
peaked hat with a at, sti brim. FOOTWEAR FOOTWEAR
Children were oten shown bareoot. Children were oten shown bareoot. Foot coverings included sandals and Foot coverings included sandals and closed shoes.
closed shoes.
JEWELRY JEWELRY
Children wore earrings, necklaces, and bracelets, Children wore earrings, necklaces, and bracelets, especially those in the orm o a serpent.
especially those in the orm o a serpent.
G R E E k C O S T u M E F O R S P E C I A L I Z E D
G R E E k C O S T u M E F O R S P E C I A L I Z E D
O C C u P A T I O N S O R O C C A S I O N S
O C C u P A T I O N S O R O C C A S I O N S
W E D D I N G D R E S S W E D D I N G D R E S SThe Greek bride’s costume or weddings was laden The Greek bride’s costume or weddings was laden with symbolism. (See Figure 3.14.) The wedding gar- with symbolism. (See Figure 3.14.) The wedding gar- ment had some areas that were dyed purple with a ment had some areas that were dyed purple with a costly dye obtained rom a rare type o mollusk called costly dye obtained rom a rare type o mollusk called the murex. The bride wore a belt tied with a double the murex. The bride wore a belt tied with a double knot known as a bridal or
knot known as a bridal or Hercules knotHercules knot. The loos-. The loos- ening o this knot, which took place on the wedding ening o this knot, which took place on the wedding night, was both a symbol o and a necessary preace night, was both a symbol o and a necessary preace to the sexual union o the bride and groom. Her veil, to the sexual union o the bride and groom. Her veil, which was either a mantle pulled up over which was either a mantle pulled up over the back o the head or a separate veil, was the back o the head or a separate veil, was colored yellow-orange with the dye rom colored yellow-orange with the dye rom the saron plant. Saron was associated the saron plant. Saron was associated with women because o its use as a medicine with women because o its use as a medicine or menstrual problems. Over the veil was or menstrual problems. Over the veil was placed the
placed thestephanestephane or bridal crown. Beore andor bridal crown. Beore and during the ceremony, the veil covered the during the ceremony, the veil covered the bride’sbride’s
ace until the ritual unveiling o the bride, ace until the ritual unveiling o the bride,
the
the anakalypteriaanakalypteria, took place. Not until, took place. Not until this unveiling had either the bride or this unveiling had either the bride or groom seen each other, and this part groom seen each other, and this part o the ceremony is thought to have o the ceremony is thought to have symbolized the bride’s willing accep- symbolized the bride’s willing accep-
tance o the groom. tance o the groom.
Both bride and groom were also Both bride and groom were also crowned with laurel wreaths, a crowned with laurel wreaths, a religious symbol with divine asso- religious symbol with divine asso- ciations that was intended to gloriy ciations that was intended to gloriy the weddings o mortals. The bride the weddings o mortals. The bride also wore special sandals called also wore special sandals called
nymphides
nymphides and decked hersel and decked hersel with elaborate jewelry. (See Figure with elaborate jewelry. (See Figure 3.14.) Finally, the bride presented 3.14.) Finally, the bride presented
FIGuRE 3.14
FIGuRE 3.14 Woman preparing for herWoman preparing for her wedding. The attendant at the left is wedding. The attendant at the left is handing her the stephane, or bridal handing her the stephane, or bridal crown. The bride, on the right, has a crown. The bride, on the right, has a belt—tied with a bridal knot—around belt—tied with a bridal knot—around her waist and is in the process of don- her waist and is in the process of don- ning her bridal veil.
ning her bridal veil.(Oil Flask [Lekythos] in the(Oil Flask [Lekythos] in the form of an acorn © [410–400
form of an acorn © [410–400B.C.B.C.] Museum of Fine] Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.)
CHAPTER THREE Crete and Greece CHAPTER THREE Crete and Greece 6969
the groom with a tunic, a
the groom with a tunic, achlanischlanis, she had woven , she had woven her-her- sel. This git probably symbolized her mastery o an sel. This git probably symbolized her mastery o an essential housewiely skill.
essential housewiely skill.
M I L I T A R Y C O S T u M E M I L I T A R Y C O S T u M E
Military costume during both the Archaic and Military costume during both the Archaic and Classical Periods varied rom one city-state to another Classical Periods varied rom one city-state to another but usually included some orm o protective cloth- but usually included some orm o protective cloth- ing worn over a tunic. In the Archaic Period, soldiers ing worn over a tunic. In the Archaic Period, soldiers wore cloaks o rough wool. They protected them- wore cloaks o rough wool. They protected them- selves with such devices as breastplates made rom selves with such devices as breastplates made rom
metal plates or disks mounted on abric corselets and metal plates or disks mounted on abric corselets and held up by shoulder straps. Helmets made o either held up by shoulder straps. Helmets made o either leather or bronze that had chin straps and high crests leather or bronze that had chin straps and high crests were intended to make warriors look more earsome. were intended to make warriors look more earsome. Greaves
Greaves, shaped leather or metal protectors or the, shaped leather or metal protectors or the lower legs, and wide metal belts and shields provided lower legs, and wide metal belts and shields provided additional protection.
additional protection.
In the Classical Period, chlamys-style cloaks were In the Classical Period, chlamys-style cloaks were worn. Protective devices or common soldiers
worn. Protective devices or common soldiers includedincluded a leather
a leather cuirasscuirass ((kwi-ras'kwi-ras' ) (a modern term or a close-) (a modern term or a close- ftting, shaped armor that covered the body), a metal ftting, shaped armor that covered the body), a metal