Contemporary Comments 3.1
H E R O D O T u S D E S C R I B E S T H E O R I G I N S O F T H E C H A N G E H E R O D O T u S D E S C R I B E S T H E O R I G I N S O F T H E C H A N G E F R O M D O R I C T O I O N I C C H I T O N S F R O M D O R I C T O I O N I C C H I T O N S In his history oIn his history o the Persian Wars, Book V, Herodotthe Persian Wars, Book V, Herodotus recounts the story o us recounts the story o how the women o how the women o Athens were required toAthens were required to change the style o their dress. Only one Athenian warrior escaped death in battle and returned, to tell the story o the change the style o their dress. Only one Athenian warrior escaped death in battle and returned, to tell the story o the deeat.
deeat. . . . When he
. . . When he came back to Athens, bringing word o the calamitycame back to Athens, bringing word o the calamity, the wives o those who had been sent out on , the wives o those who had been sent out on thethe expedition took it sorely to heart, that he alone should have survived the slaughter o all the rest; they thereore expedition took it sorely to heart, that he alone should have survived the slaughter o all the rest; they thereore crowded round the man, and struck him with the brooches by which their dresses were astened
crowded round the man, and struck him with the brooches by which their dresses were astened 11—each, as she—each, as she
struck, asking him where he had
struck, asking him where he had let her husband. And the let her husband. And the man died in this way. The Athenians thought the deedman died in this way. The Athenians thought the deed o the women more horrible even than the ate o the troops; as however they did not know how to punish them, o the women more horrible even than the ate o the troops; as however they did not know how to punish them, they changed their dress and compelled them to wear the costume o the Ionians. Till this time the Athenian they changed their dress and compelled them to wear the costume o the Ionians. Till this time the Athenian women had worn a Dorian dress [see Figure 3.7.], shaped nearly like that which prevails at Corinth. Henceorth women had worn a Dorian dress [see Figure 3.7.], shaped nearly like that which prevails at Corinth. Henceorth they were made to wear the linen tunic, which does not require brooches.
they were made to wear the linen tunic, which does not require brooches.22[Book V, Chapter 87.][Book V, Chapter 87.]
11These “brooches” are not like modern broaches with saety clasps, but long, sharp, daggerlike pins.These “brooches” are not like modern broaches with saety clasps, but long, sharp, daggerlike pins.
22Ionic styles (see Figure Ionic styles (see Figure 3.9) were astened with small, button-shaped closures o 3.9) were astened with small, button-shaped closures o fbulae, fbulae, probably closing more like a small saety pin.probably closing more like a small saety pin.
The later revival o Dorian styles did not include the use o the daggerlike pin or astening. The later revival o Dorian styles did not include the use o the daggerlike pin or astening. From
From The Persian Wars,The Persian Wars, by Herodotus, trans. by George Rawlinson. Copyright 1942 by Random House, Inc.; reprinted with permissionby Herodotus, trans. by George Rawlinson. Copyright 1942 by Random House, Inc.; reprinted with permission o Random House, Inc.
CHAPTER THREE Crete and Greece CHAPTER THREE Crete and Greece 6565
The
The diplaxdiplax ((dy'plax dy'plax ), a small rectangle o abric), a small rectangle o abric worn by women, especially over the Ionic chiton, was worn by women, especially over the Ionic chiton, was draped in much the same way as the himation. The draped in much the same way as the himation. The chlamydon
chlamydon ((kla'mi-donkla'mi-don) was a more complicated orm) was a more complicated orm o the woman
o the woman’s diplax in which ’s diplax in which abric was pleated intoabric was pleated into a abric band. (See Figure 3.9.)
a abric band. (See Figure 3.9.)
Various styles o cloaks and capes were worn or Various styles o cloaks and capes were worn or cool weather. The most notable example was the cool weather. The most notable example was thechla-chla- mys
mys ((kla'miskla'mis), a rectangular cloak o leather or wool), a rectangular cloak o leather or wool pinned over the right or let shoulder. Worn by men pinned over the right or let shoulder. Worn by men over a chiton, especially or traveling, it could be used over a chiton, especially or traveling, it could be used as a blanket or sleeping at night. (See Figure 3.13.) as a blanket or sleeping at night. (See Figure 3.13.)
HAIR AND HEADDRESS FOR MEN HAIR AND HEADDRESS FOR MEN
See Illustrated Table 3.1, or a cross section o hair- See Illustrated Table 3.1, or a cross section o hair- styles or the period.
styles or the period.
In the Archaic Period, long or medium-length hair In the Archaic Period, long or medium-length hair and beards predominated, whereas in the Classical and beards predominated, whereas in the Classical Period, young men wore short hair and no beards and Period, young men wore short hair and no beards and older men longer hair and beards.
older men longer hair and beards.
Types o hats oten shown in art included ftted Types o hats oten shown in art included ftted caps and the
caps and the petasospetasos (( pet'a-sos pet'a-sos), usually worn with), usually worn with
the chlamys. Its wide brim provided shade in sum- the chlamys. Its wide brim provided shade in sum- mer or kept rain o the head. Though not Greek mer or kept rain o the head. Though not Greek styles,
styles, PhrygianPhrygian (( frig'ee-an frig'ee-an)) bonnetsbonnets, brimless caps, brimless caps with a high padded peak that ell orward, were with a high padded peak that ell orward, were oten depicted. Phrygian bonnets in Greek art iden- oten depicted. Phrygian bonnets in Greek art iden- tiy wearers as oreigners rom the Middle East. tiy wearers as oreigners rom the Middle East. This type o hat reappears in European styles in the This type o hat reappears in European styles in the Middle Ages.
Middle Ages.
Both men and women wore the
Both men and women wore thepilospilos (( pi'los pi'los), a nar-), a nar- row-brimmed or brimless hat with a pointed crown. row-brimmed or brimless hat with a pointed crown.
HAIR AND HEADDRESS FOR WOMEN HAIR AND HEADDRESS FOR WOMEN
See Illustrated Table 3.1, page 66, or a cross section o See Illustrated Table 3.1, page 66, or a cross section o hairstyles or the period.
hairstyles or the period.
In the Archaic Period, women wore their hair long In the Archaic Period, women wore their hair long in curling tresses with small curls arranged around in curling tresses with small curls arranged around the ace. In the Classical Period, it was pulled into a the ace. In the Classical Period, it was pulled into a knot or chignon at the back o the head.
knot or chignon at the back o the head.
Fillets, scarves, ribbons, and caps were used to Fillets, scarves, ribbons, and caps were used to confne the hair. Paintings and sculpture o women confne the hair. Paintings and sculpture o women depict veils that were worn over the head and are depict veils that were worn over the head and are sometimes shown pulled across to cover the
sometimes shown pulled across to cover the ace.ace.
FIGuRE 3.10
FIGuRE 3.10 Figure from aFigure from a Greek vase by Thomas Hope Greek vase by Thomas Hope (18th century). Woman fastens (18th century). Woman fastens the shoulder of her Doric the shoulder of her Doric chiton. Notice the small weights chiton. Notice the small weights at the end of the drapery that at the end of the drapery that falls from her right shoulder. falls from her right shoulder. (Courtesy of Dover Publications, Inc.) (Courtesy of Dover Publications, Inc.)
FIGuRE 3.11
FIGuRE 3.11 Greek woman wears theGreek woman wears the Hellenistic chiton, which is belted Hellenistic chiton, which is belted typically high under the breasts typically high under the breasts and made of lightweight fabric and made of lightweight fabric
that molds the body lines. that molds the body lines. ((Dancing Lady,Dancing Lady,Greek, c. 50Greek, c. 50B.C.B.C.
Marble, H. 85.4cm [with case]. Marble, H. 85.4cm [with case]. © The Cleveland Museum of © The Cleveland Museum of Art, John L. Serverance Fund, Art, John L. Serverance Fund, 1965.24.)
66
66 PART ONE The Ancient WorldPART ONE The Ancient World