Arvind Textile Internship Report

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

REPORT

Arvind Mills, Naroda

Abstract-

The document contains the report

for a fifteen day textile internship at

Arvind Mills, Naroda plant.

Submitted By-

Aditya Kohli

Prateek Kapoor

Mentor-

Prof. Pavan Godiawala

11

_{July, 2014}

Table of Contents

Part I

1. Certificate For Completing Internship 4-6

2. Acknowledgement 7

3. Project Abstract 8

4. Objective of Internship 9

5. Indian Textile Industry 10

6. Company Profile 11-16

Part II

Raw Material Store Room 17-19

Part III

Spinning Department 20-35

i. Introduction ii. Process Flow

iii. Blow Room Section iv. Carding Section

v. Drawing Section vi. Combing Section vii. Spinning Section

Part IV

Dyeing Department 36-50

i. Introduction ii. Rope Dyeing

a) Preparatory Process b) c) Machine Specifications d) e) Process Flow f) i. Slasher Dyeing a) Preparatory Process b) c) Machine Specifications d) e) Process Flow f) Part V Sizing Department 51-53 Part VI Weaving Section 54-65 i. Introduction ii. Types of Looms iii. Air-Jet Loom

a) Principle b)

c) Loom Motions d)

e) Advantages f)

g) Machine Specifications h)

i) Process Flow j)

k) Major Defects That Arise l)

Part VII

Finishing And Processing Department 66-78

i. Introduction

ii. Classification of Finishes iii. Singeing Unit

a) Objective b)

c) Process Flow d)

e) Machine Specification f)

g) Methods of Singeing h)

iv. Mercerizing Unit

a) Objective b)

c) Process Flow d)

e) Machine Specification f)

g) Factors for Mercerization h)

v. Stenter Unit

a) Objective b)

c) Process Flow d)

e) Machine Specifications f)

g) Components of Stenter Machine h)

vi. Foam Finisher

a) Objective b)

c) Process Flow d)

e) Machine Specifications f)

g) Advantages h)

vii. Integrated Wet Finishing Unit

a) Introduction b)

c) Process Flow. d)

Part VIII

Inspection and Testing Department 79-87

i. Introduction ii. Inspection System iii. Types of Testing

Part IX

Packaging Department 88

i. Process Flow

ii. Machine Specifications

Part X

DNTG Department (R&D) 89-91

i. Design Team ii. Technical Team

Part XI

Policies Regarding Environment Friendliness And Care 92-94

Part XII

Part XII

Acknowledgement

I would like to thank Arvind, Naroda unit for giving me the opportunity to undergo a training in the textile department and for extending their support towards us all throughout our internship.

I would also like to thank NIFT, Gandhinagar for giving us this opportunity and facilitating our internship.

It was a great learning experience throughout to see one of the most well planned and advanced textile units. We take the opportunity to thank all the people who guided us through the entire process and made our training a success by sharing their knowledge.

I would like to thank Ms. Richa Ahuja, Sr. H.R. at Arvind, without whose support and guidance the internship couldn’t have been completed satisfactorily.

I am also grateful to our College mentor Prof. Pavan Godiawala for guiding us at every stage and making this project a success.

Project Abstract

Project type Textile internship

Industry Arvind Mills Limited – Lifestyle Fabrics

Address Denim Division

Arvind Limited Naroda Road Ahmedabad – 380025 Gujarat India Tel: +91-79-30138000 Fax: +91-79-30138671 Mentor Ms. Richa Ahuja

Objective of Internship

The project is based on a fifteen day internship, in Arvind Mills denim Department. It covers all the information and learning experiences related to manufacturing of textiles, denim in this case and all the processes involved namely:

• Spinning • Dyeing • Weaving • Finishing • Testing • Packaging

The main objectives of the project/internship were:

1. Understanding basic principles of production of textiles.

2. In-depth study and understanding of all process involved in textile production and the machinery and equipment used.

3. Knowledge about the company

4. Understanding the company’s process flow in production

5. Study the work environment and practices followed for textile production. 6. Asses the faults and critical factors of production and determine the practices adopted by Arvind Mills.

Indian Textile Industry

• Indian textile industry and Market Size

- Textiles sector contributes to 14 per cent of industrial production - 4 per cent of National GDP

- 10.63 per cent of country's export earnings • Market Size

- India's share of global textile exports is expected to increase from the current 4% to around 7% over the next three-years

• Growth Rate

- 3-4 percent during the last six decade - 9-10 percent during last five year • Scope of rivalry - Raymond India - Welspun India Ltd - Alok Industries - Gokaldas Exports - Arvee Industries - Bharat Vijay mills

Company Profile

Introduction to the Company –

Arvind Limited started with a share capital of Rs. 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year 1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind invested in very sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to full-fledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales in the year 1934, three years after establishment were Rs 45.76 lakh and profits were Rs 2.82 lakh.

In the mid 1980’s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the power loom churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite mills lost their markets, and were on the verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its highest level of profitability. At this point of time Arvind’s management coined a new word for it new strategy – Renovision. It simply meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the obvious and that became the corporate philosophy. The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvind’s markets shifted from domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality goods. Cottons were the largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to popular priced segments, Renovision pointed to high quality premium niches. Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export market for two sections -Denim for leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for cotton shirting and trousers. By 1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it was the third largest producer of Denim in the world.

In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and knits facility, the largest of its kind in India, at Santej. With Arvind’s concern for environment a most modern effluent treatment facility with zero effluent discharge capability was also established.

Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to increase its current operations by setting up world-scale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop shop service, by offering garment packages to its international and domestic customers.

Of Lee, Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf, is setting its vision of becoming the largest apparel brands company in India.

Arvind Portfolio –

Board of Directors –

CHAIRMAN-

Mr Arvind N. Lalbhai

He is a Science Graduate and has been associated with the Company for over 60 years. He has been the Director since March 1974 and Managing Director since January 1975 till November 2002. He is the former President of the Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry.

WHOLETIME DIRECTORS

Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, Managing Director

A Science Graduate with a Master’s degree in Business Management, has been associated with the Company for more than 25 years.

Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, Director Finance

A Chartered Accountant having distinguished academic and professional career, has been with the group since the last 17 years.

OTHER DIRECTORS Mr. Deepak M. Satwalekar

A ‘B. Tech.’ from The Indian Institute of Technology (IIT), Gandhinagar and a post-graduate in Business Administration from The American University, Washington DC, he is the Managing Director of HDFC since 1993; He is also Managing Director and Chief Executive Officer of HDFC Standard Life Insurance Corporation Ltd.; He

has been a Consultant to the World Bank, Asian Development Bank, and other bilateral and multilateral agencies and has worked in several countries. He is a member of Governing Council of various management and educational institutions and government expert groups.

Ms. Rama Bijapurkar

She is a Bsc (Hons) and MBA from IIM –A and has worked for McKinsey, Lintas and has been the Deputy Managing Director of MARG and a founder Director of MODE Services. She has also been consulting Hindustan Lever and other Indian and Multinational Corporates. She is visiting Professor at IIM- A. and is on the Board of Infosys Technologies Ltd., CRISIL, Titan Industries and Godrej Consumer Products Ltd.

Mr. Jaithirth Rao

With a Masters Degree from the University of Chicago and IIM-Ahmedabad, he is the Chairman and CEO of MphasiS BFL Ltd. and is on the Board of Cadbury India Ltd., Mahindra Holidays & Resorts India Ltd., IDFC Asset Management Company Limited and Gabriel India Limited

Mr. S. Sridhar (Nominee of EXIM Bank)

He is an Executive Director of Export-Import Bank of India

Mr. Balaji Swaminathan (Nominee of ICICI Bank)

A Sr. Gen. Manager and Chief Financial Officer of ICICI Bank Ltd, he is also Director on the Board of ICICI Infotech Ltd., ICICI One-Source Ltd., Kalyani Forge Ltd., Orient Paper & Industries Ltd. and Unison Hotels Ltd.

Mr. V.K.Pandit (Nominee of IDBI)

He is a retired IAS Officer. Former Secretary to the Government of India. He is on the Board of Shree Maheshwar Hydel Power Corporation Ltd. , Induj Enertech Ltd. and Neyveli Lignite Corporation Ltd.

Company’s Vision

(Information as collected from Company Website)

WE BELIEVE

In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in focus on problem solving; in teams for effective performance, in the power of the intellect.

WE ENDEAVOUR

To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to build leaders for the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and activate all intellectual business contributions.

WE DREAM

Of excellence in all endeavours; of mutual benefit and prosperity; of making the world a better place to live in.

Arvind Denim Division –

Arvind is a pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, The Naroda plant accounts for 89%

of the company's total denim fabric capacity of 108 million metres.

CEO of Arvind denim division is Mr. Aamir Akhtar

There are many delightful features of Arvind denim: the position of 3rd largest producer of denim in the world; and an export network of 70 countries worldwide. Prominent products in this category include ring denim, indigo voiles, organic denim, bi-stretch denim and fair trade certified denim. This is apart from regular light, medium and heavy weight denims. They come in various shades of indigo, sulphur, yarn-dyed, in 100% cotton and various blends.

Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been their core competency and have played a key role in their success in producing the highest quality of denim and being the market leaders. They have a huge DNTG department that is Development and New technology that is the hub of innovation for denims. The use of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets. The facilities of Arvind Denim are accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS, Organic exchange standard, FLO for fair trade and Lycra Assured. As one of the largest denim producers in the world, Arvind caters to quality markets of Europe, US, West Asia, the Far East and the Asia Pacific. Labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025 certification) The labs are accredited by DuPont, Levi Strauss.

Major International Buyers

 JACK AND JONES

 PANTAGONIA

 CALVIN KLIEN

 ZARA  ESPRIT

Arvind Owned Brands For Denim –

 EXCALIBUR

 FLYING

MACHINE The Flying Machine brand is the oldest homegrown denim brand for Arvind. In 2007, it was revived and re-launched in a different avatar with a new logo,

placement and philosophy. Since then it has witnessed

tremendous growth. Now the company wants to take it to the top three level.

 NEW PORT

 RUFF & TUFF  DIESEL

Raw Material Store Room

OBJECTIVE

The Raw Materials Department is the department from where the work starts in the plant. The main objectives of raw material department are storing, issuing, and reconciliation of raw material intended for manufacturing.

(Raw Materials were placed in the storage Room as per their sourcing places.)

SYSTEM AND PROCEDURE

Work takes place in the following systematic order:-

1. The orders are placed in the Marketing Department, at the Head Office stationed at Naroda road, Ahmedabad. The customer specifies its requirements in the order. 2. A sales order is then prepared giving a systematic description of the requirements by the Marketing Department, which is then sent to the factory.

3. The Sales Order is received at the Production Planning and Commitment Department (PPC).

4. The PPC Department then makes the production planning chart which includes all the characteristics of the yarn required.

ROLE OF RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT

It receives the material, which is ordered by production department and issues the required material to the department. In case of rejection, it stores the rejected material and returns it to the seller end.

Types of cotton Arvind Mills use:

1. Pakistan Cotton 2. J34 SG

i. It is a selection from non-descriptive hirustum mixtures. Re-selection from Bikaneri Narma. It is sown in the months of April/May and the crop is ready for picking by October/December.. J34RG and SG are grown in the states of Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan and total production per annum is around 2.6 million bales of each of 170 Kg.

3. Shankar-6 Gujarat cotton

i.It is sown in the month of June-July and is ready for picking in November and may extend upto February. It is cultivated in an area of 4.4 million Acres in the state of Gujarat.

4. Organic cotton

a. Organic cotton is being produced in-house by arvind mills, and also being procured from fully organic certified farms, as some environment conscious customers prefer to use it.

b. Arvind’s organic cotton contract farming project is located in the cotton growing belt district of Maharashtra; Akola. )

CAPACITY OF RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT

The textile industry is based on raw material capacity, which costs from 70 to 80% of industry cost. It capacity is about 1870 tons.

MATERIAL PURCHASE

In Raw Material, they source both long staple fibers and short staple fibers from Andra Pradesh, Rajasthan,Punjab,Gujarat and imports from Pakistan. Certain prerequisites are considered as to what kind of cotton fibers are required like Length, Strength, Fineness (micronium per inch), Uniformity Ratio.

• Geeta cotton Co. Pvt. Ltd. (Andhra Pradesh)

• Sai Venkata agro industries pvt.ltd(Andhra Pradesh) • Sri Ganganagar Pvt. Ltd. (Rajasthan) etc.

Spinning Department

1. Arvind Mills, Naroda has in-house Open-end spinning unit 2. ArvindIntex, Spintex (separate premises) for Ring –spun yarn 3. DDSP plant(separate premises) for Ring –spun yarn

The initial stage of denim production is opening and blending of cotton fibers. Opening begins with baled cotton fibers being separated into small tufts. A blend of cotton fibers is made on each opening line. These bales are usually selected based on the basic cotton data, i.e. fiber length, uniformity, maturity and strength.

Cotton is delivered by air suction from the opening and blending lines, through additional cleaning and blending machines, to the cards. The major functions of carding are to remove foreign matter and short fibers from the cotton and convert it into a web and covert the web into a rope like Form known as sliver. These card slivers, usually a group of six or eight, are then passed through drawing frames and this process produces a single uniform sliver. The additional blending, parallelizing of fibers and cleaning in this process produces a sliver for Open end and Ring spinning.

Open-end Spinning

Drawing frame slivers are fed to open-end machine. Cotton fibers are formed into a yarn by centrifugal action in Open end spinning. Individual fibers are laid down in the groove of a fast spinning rotor and twisted into yarn. After the cotton fibers spun into yarn, the yarn is wound into a large package on the same machine.

In Open end spinning machines, there are moving robots on each side, which automatically pieces up broken ends. On the different track, there is another robot that automatically doffs the full packages and starts up a new package. The size and quality of each yarn end are monitored by the computer system to ensure uniformity.

Ring Spinning

In case of Ring spinning, this drawing sliver passes through roving frame before final spinning process whereas for Open end spinning it goes directly to the open-end machine.

In the Ring spinning, yarn is formed from cotton fibers that are twisted together after being drafted by passing between a set of top and bottom rollers. The yarn then is

wrapped on a bobbin as it spins on a spindle by use of a traveller. The relationship between roll speeds, traveller speeds and spindle speeds controls the amount of twist in the yarn.

Fascination provision provided on the spinning machines help producing various Slub patterns in the yarn as per desire. Denim made from such yarn has got different character and surface interest than the normal yarn.

PROCESS FLOWCHART OF BLOWROOM

Blow room operations

Owing to the mode of cotton picking, cotton gathering in the fields and subsequent collection and handling till the final bales are ready, quite a good deal of impurities get associated with it. Besides, by the time the bales are brought to the mixing room even the bale surfaces become untidy due to foreign impurities sticking to them. To remove all such impurities from the cotton, blow-room sequence of machines is quite necessary. They were blended as 20% bale of Kalyan,20%from Pakistan, 50% of Bunny/ brahma and 10% comber noil.Second line contains 60:30:10 (Bunny/brahma:kalyan:Pakistan) BDT (Blendomat) GRR (Bale opener) AFC (Axi Flow Cleaner) MPM (Multiple Mixers) ASTA (Heavy Particle material separator) BE 961(Cleaning Machine) SRS-6(step Cleaner) RN (Cleaning Machine) BE-961 (Cleaning Machine) RSK (Cleaning Machine) DUSTEX (Micro dust Cleaner) FBK-533 Card

BLENDING (BDT Blendomat)

The Blendomat machine moves on x & y co-ordinates. Y co-ordinates vary from maximum 1789 to minimum 993.

The machine is installed on 8th march 1995. Objective:

•To open the cotton from matted condition to the loose open state in which it was before baling.

Bale Specification

•Bale Capacity : 1000 1200

•Bales Imported: 220 230 Kgs

•1 Bale : 165 170 Kgs

Machine Specification (Blendomat bdt 019)

• Place of Origin: Germany

• Brand Name : Trutzschler

• Model Number: Blendomat BDT 019

• Type : BLENDOMAT

• Depth (Limit) : 93-1789 Metres

• The machine takes up 50-60 cotton bales (approx.) in 8.5 hours. Each cotton bale weight 165 kg’s.

• Machine main supply : 3Ph/Ac, 415V, 50Hz.

• Control circuit : 1Ph/Ac, 24V, 50Hz

• US patent no. : 4.321.732

• Model no. : BDT 019/2300

Machine Details and Observations

• The hook movement is opposite to the direction of machine movement. • Hooks are used to lift the cotton fiber so that opening can take place. • Sensors to prevent any disturbances

• Mode of bale laying – Manual

• Material in process – cotton with seeds and impurities.

Steps:

• Cotton is passed from bales and then to apron. Apron moves cotton to blending apron.

• Blending apron has sharp spikes the raise cotton until part of it is knocked off by the roll.

• Some of the cotton stays on apron.

• The cotton knocked back by roll and continues to blend until picked up again by apron.

• Another roll strips off cotton that was not knocked back by previous roll.

• Cotton falls on conveyor belt and is carried to next process that is blending through an overhead duct.

It has been done to obtain uniformity in cotton blending

OPENING

Steps:

• Lint cotton falls on apron and passes between feeder rolls to beater cylinder. The rapidly whirling beater blades take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash, and loosen up the mass.

• The two screen rolls are made of screen material and air is sucked out of them by fan.

• This draws the cotton from beater and condenses it on the surface of the screen rolls from which it is taken and passed on by the small rolls.

• Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes cotton to another type of beater. From beater the cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried to picker.

Why it’s been done?

It is necessary in order to loosen hard lumps of fiber and disentangle them; cleaning is required to remove trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs, and any remaining seeds.

GBR

Here the cottons are fed for homogenous mixtures and for removing dirts.MPM-8 – it has got 8 chambers. Generally used for homogenous mixture of fibers like while harvesting some cotton are from matured plants and some re not. So that it will affect the fabric. So, after homogenous mixing all will be the same.

AXI Flow Cleaner

This is fitted with beaters .Cotton moves from GBR to axiflow by suction and impurities fall below in a bin under the gravitational pull. Objective of AFC is separation of heavy parts (impurities) from cotton.The opened up mass of fiber rotates around two cleaning rollers (beaters) with cylinder steel pins which beat the fiber material, allowing the coarse particles to be separated.The time (in hours) of the passage of material can be regulated The speed range of the beaters varies from 400-600 rpm.

MACHINE MAKE: TRUTZSCHLER (GERMANY)

MODEL: 052-2502

PRESSURE: 50-75 bar

MAJOR PARTS: Two metallic perforated cylinders and waste collector

MPM multiple mixer-

Fitted with eight beaters. This sucks cotton from axiflowand pumps to asta meanwhile sorting the cotton fibers.Generally used for homogenous mixture of fibers

MAKE: TRUTZSCHLER

MODEL: 10236

MOTOR SPEED: 1750 rpm

OPENING ROLLS SPEED: 800-850 m/min

NUMBER OF CHAMBERS: 10

OUTPUT: 30-36%

PRESSURE: 350 bar

Major parts: This machine consists of material feed, reserve tank, reserve tank flaps, optical sensor delivery, rollers, and material suction funnel.

ASTA:

Objective of ASTA is Heavy trash separation from cotton. The air and material enters the separation tank in a stream via upper channel and hit baffle plates. Heavy particles are removed away from the lighter fibers by negative acceleration and the force of gravity. The lower channel generates an opulent air stream in the area of baffle plates, which guides the fibers to the outlet.

MAKE: TRUTZSCHLER (GERMANY)

MODEL: ASTA 800

PRINCIPLE: principle of aerodynamics

DUSTEX:

Dust removal is not an easy operation since the dust particles are completely enclosed in the flocks & hence are back during suction. The suction units remove dust 64% dust.

MAKE: TRUTZSCHLER (GERMANY)

MODEL: CVT-4 1600

NO. OF MACHINES: 2

CLEANING EFFICIENCY: 64%

Cotton through Carding

Carding is the heart of the entire spinning process and as such requires utmost care. Next to blow room, carding is the only major stage for cleaning cotton.

Objective

The object of carding is to open out thoroughly the tiny lumps or locks to a state where every fiber becomes individualized and the cotton is no more in an entangled state. Equally important is the removal of all the impurities, short fibers, etc. and finally it has to prepare the well cleaned material into a compact sliver form and lay into containers for subsequent process.

Carding theory

In carding there is an intensive teasing action on a mass of fibers in order to separate it into individual fibers. In practice the opening, cleaning and separation actions are simultaneously taking place at one point or the other.

Process

• Elimination of impurities.

• Collection of cleaned or carded fiber • Short fiber separation.

Machine Details and Observations

The carding process essentially involves the opening of fibre aggregates by working between two closely spaced surfaces covered with inclined wires. The main objects of carding are:

 To carry further process of fibres opening to a state of fibre individualization

 To remove neps, tiny lumps of fibres

 To deliver a continuous sliver for further processes.

 To remove impurities from the material by individual fibre separation.

 To enable parallelization of fibres.

The carding machine is supplied with cotton flocks through FBK ducts continuously. The cotton then traverses through the rollers. The material is fed inside with the help of feed roller which is located above the feed plate. The feed roller is followed by the licker-in cylinder.

There is a licker in undercasing and back plate below and in front of the rollers respectively. Undercasing is a perforated plate which is responsible for collection of the waste removal from the card. Back plate is positioned between the licker-in and cylinder. Front plate is positioned between cylinder and the doffer. Both have spikes and perform the same function as that of the set of cylinder and flats.

Flats are clothing on the rollers which is in the form of spiked belt. There are 102 flats of which about 42 are in working position at time of contact with cylinder. Cylinder moves very fast as compared to the flats. Due to this movement, the best fibres are straightened, made parallel and opening and cleaning is performed.

The back plate and front plate reduces the loading on the cylinder. The voids between the cylinder, licker-in and cylinder, doffer are thus covered by front and back plates.

The main function of the doffer is to collect the fibres from the cylinder and deliver them in the form of a web. The function of the licker-in is breaking and opening of the tufts of cotton and pass them onto the cylinder without retaining any of them. To get optimum performance from the various elements of a card, it is essential to use the right type and right combination of wire clothing. The metallic wire particulars which could influence the carding process are: wire width, wire point density, tooth angle, shape and height.

Carding performance can be improved by increasing the number of teeth cross wise along the width of the card. This has led to the development of finer rib wires. The doffer is clothed with a wire which has a higher trapping and holding power than the cylinder wire. Thus it has a greater point density than cylinder wire.

Cotton carding

Machine Specifications

Cylinder Speed 450-500 rpm

Licker-in Speed 1100-1200 rpm

Doffer Speed 25-30 rpm

Flat Speed 22-25 cm/min

Cylinder Diameter 1290 mm Licker-in Diameter 250 mm Doffer Diameter 500 mm Can Diameter 24” Can Height 42” Technical Specifications

Linear Density of Lap Fed 400 gm/m

Rate of Feed 500 gm/min

Length of Sliver/Can 5500 m

Weight of Sliver/Can 26 kg

Production/min 85 m/min

Production/hour 5100 m/hr

Production (kg/hr) 25 kg/hr

At Arvind mills, Naroda:

• No of carding machines: 14 machines • Brand name of machine: Trutzschler

Fibers through drawing

In the spinning process, the next important stage in the cotton process is draw frame. By carding the entangled mass of fibers is well opened so that every fiber becomes quite free. These individual fibers lie criss-cross in the web. These fibers require be straightening and parallelizing to the possible extent.

Objective of drawing

• To straightened the fibers in the slivers.

• To make them lie in a manner parallel to their neighbours and to the sliver axis. • To improve the uniformity or evenness of the slivers.

(Drawing of sliver)

Process

Fibers imparts slivers are irregularly arranged and need improvement both in uniformity and fiber straightening. It is accomplished by drafting them with pairs of rollers which are made to revolve at different surface speeds.

Machine Maker: Padmatex/Trutzschler

MODEL: Padmatex 720/HSR 900

Objective: To parallise fibre to each other

To even out weight/unit length

Drafting Systems: 4 over 3-Spring loaded top arm

No of doubling: 6

Drafting : 6

Machine Speed: 650 rpm

Average cycle time: 15min

Capacity/day: 3.5 tons

No of workmen/shift: 3

Input Material: 6 Sliver

Output Material: 1 Sliver

Twisting together to a more yarns to form one final yarn is known as doubling. The object of doubling is to combine two or more yarns to get:

• Much stronger yarns • More regular yarns

• Yarns for different purpose and • Novel or fancy effects

Yarns are combined either in one stage or in several stages, either in dry or in wet state, either with identical tensions or in varying degrees of tension, similar yarns or dissimilar yarns etc. Doubling sequences components threads, grouping styles at each operation, direction of twist, doubling conditions (wet or dry) etc., alter the very appearance of the final product, inspire of the same basic single yarns employed.

Production

• The plant at Naroda works entirely on open end spinning technology/rotar spinning and produces 5400 to 5500 tonnes of yarn a month with 5472 rotars being around on campus.

• The speed of the rotar roll varies from 80,000 rpm to 130,000 rpm. • Machine installed : autocoro comb+spin technology

• Corolab - automated yarn monitoring system(automatic detection of defects by drop wire technology)

Open end spinning:

• Rotor Spinning is a more recent method of yarn formation compared to Ring Spinning.

• This is a form of open-end spinning where twist is introduced into the yarn without the need for package rotation. Allowing higher twisting speeds with a relatively low power cost.

• In rotor spinning a continuous supply of fibers is delivered from delivery rollers off a drafting system or from an opening unit.

• The fibres are sucked down a delivery tube and deposited in the groove of the rotor as a continuous ring of fibre. The fibre layer is stripped off the rotor groove and the resultant yarn wound onto a package.

• The twist in the yarn being determined by the ratio of the rotational speed of the rotor and the linear speed of the yarn.

• Sliver is fed into the machine and combed and individualized by the opening roller.

• The fibres are then deposited into the rotor where air current and centrifugal force deposits them along the groove of the rotor where they are evenly distributed. • The fibers are twisted together by the spinning action of the rotor, and the yarn is continuously drawn from the centre of the rotor. The resultant yarn is cleared of any defects and wound onto packages.

• The production rates of rotor spinning is 6-8 times higher than that of ring spinning and as the machines are fed directly by sliver and yarn is wound onto packages ready for use in fabric formation the yarn is a lot cheaper to produce.

• Rotor spun yarns are more even, somewhat weaker and have a harsher feel than ring spun yarns.

• Rotor spun yarns are mainly produced in the medium count (30 Ne, 20 tex) to coarse count (10 Ne, 60 Tex) range.

• The yarn is wound on a big package of about 4 kg.

• The use of this system has two basic advantages. It is fed by sliver, not as with the ring frame by roving, and so eliminates the speed frame from the process line. It can also be modified to remove any remaining trash, thereby improving the yarn quality.

The OE spinning process is employed for production of slub yarns. The same procedure is followed till the sliver stage. During the yarn formation, a special attachment is added with Autocoro.

A program is fed into the attachment specifying - • Slub length

• Slub diameter • Slub frequency

Now the rotor adjusts itself and takes the fibers according to the given specifications providing knots/slobs at different intervals throughout the yarn length.

Layout of spinning department

Facts and Figures

- O.E. spinning Production = 10 times Production of Ring frame - Fiber procured from Maharashtra, Haryana, and Gujarat

- Impact of Recession: Production, Quality, Maintenance has reduced. - Labour cut down from 86 to 63

- Production: 60 tonnes per day - 72tonnes per day ring yarn

- Otherwise imported from Alok, Abhishek, Vardhmaaan, Nahar spinning mills etc - Efficiency: 91%

- Count Ranges (Ne) - OE Yarn: 5.3s to 20s, Ring Yarn: 6.4s to 20s

Major Problems:

 Carding Neps which in turn become major defect in fabric and is caused due to wire run out and low micronium per inch fibre.

Solution:

1. Gauge and settings should be accurate. 2. Condition of wires.

 Yarn formed is usually of coarser count. Finer counts cannot be made.

 Trash In the Card Sliver

Solution:

1. Improve the condition of flat tops, 2. Cleaning and machine setting. 3. Suction

Dyeing Department

CAPACITY:

Total Capacity 110 million meters per annum

Slasher Capacity 70 million meters per annum

Rope Capacity 40 million meters per annum

Dyes used:

 Indigo blue- china

 Sulphur dye- Black, Brown, Green

In Arvind Mills the yarn is dyed and then it is weaved. The yarn dyeing is done by two methods:

YARN

DYEING

ROPE

DYEING

SLASHER

DYEING

ROPE DYEING

I. BALL WARPING UNIT

This is the preparatory process for ROPE DYEING. In ball warping, 250 to 400 yarn ends are pulled from the creel. Rope dyeing is followed by Re-beaming process. The planning for the no. of ends in the rope is decided on the basis of the no. of ends in the weavers beam This is done as follows: Consider a fabric with 4000 ends.

Package

Ball warping

Ball (Ends: 400, Length: 2000m)

Rope dyeing (Balls: 50) Rebeaming

Unsized Beam (Ends: 400, Length: 2000m)

Sizing (Beams: 10)

Weaver’s Beam (Ends: 4000; Length: 2000m; No. of sets: 5)

Ball warping involves creeling multiple ends of yarn and selecting them into an untwisted rope for dyeing. The ball warping is similar to normal warping with an attachment to make a compact structure instead of full width weaver’s beam. This rope is wound on a long cylinder called a ball warper .And this is use as supply package for rope dyeing.

Creel Reed Guide rolls (for compaction) Rope

II. ROPE DYEING

Denim dyeing is highly sophisticated. Indigo is a vat dye and is insoluble in water. Although full shades can be obtained from the concentrated dyeing vats in only one pass, such dyeing have inadequate fastness because indigo in the vatted or reduced state has only limited affinity for cotton.

Dyeing is not in the fabric form but in the yarn stage. The warps are dyed; fabric is made using undyed or different colored weft. Yarn dyeing is basically of two types: ROPE DYEING and SLASHER DYEING (sheet dyeing).The dyeing principle is same i.e. passing the material through a dip vat, a subsequent squeezing to remove the excess and giving air passage to allow the dyeing to oxidize.

(Rope Dyeing Machine Model)

Dyeing Styles:

- IBST: Indigo Bottom Sulphur Top - SBIT: Sulphur Bottom Indigo Top - Indigo

- Sulphur

The first section is known as setup section but after that it comes the machine layout portion i.e. there are 19 Boxes through which Rope passes for pre-wetting section

Tank-1

PREWETTING: - This process is used to increase dye uptake and wet ability by mild

scouring to remove wax material and impurities. Bath contains sequestering agent, wetting agent and caustic.

In SBIT, Sulphur bottoming is done in this tank Type: 1dip, 1 nip; Temperature: 50◦_C

Tank Capacity: 6000l

Prewetting Solution: Caustic (15gpl), PrimasolNF(wetting)

Tank-2-6

PRE-WASHING:- Used for removal of caustic and other chemicals from the rope.

Mercerization can also be carried out but again it is mild as there is no provision for stretching and shrinkage. Mercerization (Floating Roller Type) is done to increase dimensional stability, lustre and absorbency.

Temperature: 50◦_{C (Tank 2 and 3), R.T. (Tank 4), Tank 5 and 6 are usually bypassed}

(Note: Bath temperatures are maintained by steam-heated coils)

(Pre Washing Bath)

Tank-7-12

DYE BATH: - Used to carry out ring dyeing of denim with indigo. Repetitive dip and

nip are carried out. Aeration length is provided for oxidation of indigo. Type: 1 dip 1 nip; Temperature: R.T.; Tank Capacity: 7200l

pH-12.7-12.8; Potential : Dependent on dyeing style Dip time: 27 sec Aeration Time: 3 min (at speed 20m/min)

This bath may contain sulphur/indigo as per IBST or SDI style For sulphur topping Temperature: 85o_C

(Note hardness of nip rollers varies from 70 to 80)

Tank-14

This bath may contain indigo if we are going for dark indigo or it may contain water for washing if IBST style is running on the machine.

Tank-15

WASH BATH: - Detergent is used to remove superficial dye from the rope. Water

jets are also used at nip to remove unfixed dye Temperature: 65O_{C; Tank Capacity: 3200-4000l}

Detergent used: Refnol DSW

Tank-16-18

POST-WASHING: To remove detergent or superficial dye

Tank-19

Softener helps in separation of ends in the Rebeaming process Softeners for SDI style – SWPI (80gpl) and SRPL (pH-5.9) SBIT style- BA and Acid

IBST style- SPWBA (4-6 pH).

DRYING UNIT: Steaming/drying unit has 48 cylinders (3 sets) each with 5kg

(Drying cylinders in Rope Dyeing)

(Dyed Rope Coiled in Cans)

Facts and figures:

 Circulation is provided in each tank to ensure uniformity using overflowing system.

 The machine has 2 jumbo pumps and 3 centrifugal pumps.

 Redox and pH are measured after every 30 min.

 Auto levellers are there to adjust tension using resistors.

 Dyeing Capacity: 50 balls which is the highest in the world.

 Rope dyeing unit has a control room which controls the concentration of various baths via dosages and checking the shades using hunter lab.

 About 97% shade consistency is there.

 The machine stops for 5 hrs. if the new styles come.

 30 different styles can be worked with different machine.

 No of machines: -1.

 There are one operator, two asst. operators and 6 workers.

 Three workers are for color preparation and the rest are for oiling and patrolling.

DYE PREPARATION

a. Indigo preparation:

200kg indigo + 150kg caustic + 250kg hydrosulphite in 700-1000l water

Mix indigo and caustic in water for 2-3 hrs, cool for 1 hr and then add hydrosulphite and again cool for 1 hr

b. Sulphur dye preparation:-

Sulphur(x) + sulphite (1.2x) + premasol + decol + setapol (2gpl) + caustic (.5x) Dosage is set and controlled by air valve

III. REBEAMING

The dyed rope is rebeamed in a beam of width same as that of weaver’s beam. The rope is opened by passing it through a reed which ensures that the first end in the ball remains the first end in the weaver’s beam.

(Dyed Rope is Rebeamed in a beam)

Machine Specifications:

Make: West point WP No. of Machines: 13

Machine mode: Semi-automatic with manual compression breaking system Speed: 100-250m/min

Production: 33000meters/shift

Precautions

The thread should not break and the knot should be so small that it should pass through the needle eye.

Objective

 The rope is converted into sheet and they also check for the shading yarn, which remains undyed during the dyeing process.

 One set of 10 beams giving for further sizing.

 There are 20 workers per shift. Per Shift Production:

1st -33,000 meter 2nd – 33,000 meter 3rd – 30,000 meter

SLASHER DYEING (SUCKER MULLER)

A slasher is a range and is normally employed to apply size formulations onto warp yarns before weaving. This range, when used for slasher dyeing of indigo, consists of section beams of warp yarn, which are forced into a sheet of yarn.

 A slasher is a range is normally employed to apply size formulations onto warp yarns before weaving.

 This range when used for slasher dyeing of indigo consists of section beams of warp yarn, which are forced into a sheet of yarn. 1 beam is 2500mts in length.

 12 beams layers are put together in a sheet.

Creel zone

Pretwet zone

Wasing zone(50

degrees.

22m/min)

Indigo Dyeing

Washing

Pre- drying

(12 beams are put together in a sheet)

 Each beam has 575 ends.

 This yarn sheet is then fed into a scouring and washing section where natural impurities are removed.

 Temperature of 50 ̊C is maintained and the sheet of yarns is under water for 4-5 seconds. The next section is where indigo is applied. In order to achieve fairly deep shades, the indigo is applied in a series of 6 dips(After each dip, darker shade is obtained, green oxidises to blue ) and sky applications to allow for shade build up. There is continuous color feed in the dye bath. The dye application is followed by afterwashing (normal water at 50 ̊ C) and drying. With some machinery arrangement, warp size for weaving is immediately applied. For sizing the temperature of 90 ̊ C is maintained in starch solution.

 After starching post drying is carried out (5-7 % moisture) and thereafter there comes the leasing zone, where there is separation of layers which were pressed together. Here the number of beams in the leasing zone is equal to the number of layer pressed together, i.e. 12 beams. The next section is the headstock; here rolls on beams are prepared for weaving.

Slasher Dye Range

Slasher dyeing ranges have a number of advantages and unique characteristics. Slasher dyeing employs a sheet of yarn, which is wound directly onto a warp beam rather than ropes of yarn, which then requires additional handling. This type of dyeing works well with lightweight denims. In general, these machines require less floor space, enable smaller production runs, have a quicker turn over time, and are more flexible in their response to changes in the market. As an overall process these ranges have lower machinery cost; therefore, lower dye costs are realized for specific fabric types. Additionally, the slasher dyeing technique can be used for other dye types for cotton and thus can produce a wide variety of colours other than indigo blue.

(The sheet of yarns is dyed in a series of 6 dips)

(For dyeing)

Chemical Name Description Brand

Mercerol QWLF Mercerizing agent Clarient

Indigo Dye stuff China

Hyrdo Reducer for indigo BASF

Caustic soda 50% liquid For general purpose Local

Premasol NF Anti Foaming Agent BASF

Setamol BL Dispersing Agent BASF

Sodium Sulfide Reducer for Sulfur Black China

Sulfur Black BR-200% Dye stuff Arvind

Formic acid for pH control Local

Hydrogen peroxide for oxidation Local

(For sizing)

Chemical Name Description Brand

Texo-Film Maiz Starch Sizing Rafhan

Size-O-Bond Sizing Softener FFD

Wax Sizing wax Local

Size CB Binder BASF

Rope dyeing Slasher dyeing

 Warp yarn are in the form of a rope

 Warp yarns are in the form of a beam

 Can only handle dying capacity of more than 11000 m.

 Short slots not possible

 Can handle dying capacity of more than 5000 m

 Short slots possible

 Good depth of shade and lower washdown

 Shade of depth not that good

 No center to Selvedge shade variation

 Center to selvedge shade variation may occur

 Rebeaming is required after process hence more time consuming

 Rebeaming is not required.

 More expensive machine as it is huge

 Less expensive machine

 It can only be done for coarse yarns, as the tension of the rope breaks the yarn

 Can be done for fine yarns too

 Oxidation time is much greater  The immersion and oxidation times are lower

Sizing Department

There are complete automatic computerized sizing machines (Benninger). Here they can load 2 sets at a time. In this machine, 2 sizing boxes having capacity of 400x2 lit in which warp sheet passes through in such a way that 6beams(half sheet) pass through 1st _{size box and other half sheet pass through 2}nd _{size box and then they}

combine together for weave able beams. The avg. maximum workable speed is 4560m/min. the avg. production of this dept. per day is ~50,000m. Following chemicals we are currently using in Sizing are:

Chemical Name Description Company

Texo-Film Maiz Starch Starch Rafhan

Arca Base Acrylic Binder FFD Brothers Size-O-Bond Sizing Softener FFD

Brothers

Checking and monitoring the sizing process

Programming the machine:-

The easy to follow visualization and recipe management, in which all the machine and textile parameters are stored, permit fast and simple programming.

The sizing process is automatically monitored. All setpoints are specified with upper and lower tolerance limits. Deviations from the programmed value are displayed at once and instructions for their rectification are explained in the language of the operator.

Controlled tensions:-

The special arrangement of rollers in the 3- roller set prevents threads from slipping through and keeps the thread tension constant in the dry split section when changing beams.

Reproducible size cooking:-

The SIZEMIX cooker, equipped with a high powered agitator ensures homogeneous liquor. The cooker is programmed via the size recipe at the machine PC. In this way, cooking temperature, water quantity and cooking time are preset and automatically maintained. Attendance takes place optionally from the PC or directly at the cooker.

Proposed numbers of ends/inch in size box:-

The table describes the numbers of ends/inch of ring spun an open end yarn in size box according to count.

Maximum ends/inch in Size box

Yarn count Ring Spun Open End

10 35 31 20 50 45 25 56 50 30 62 56 35 66 60 40 71 64 50 80 72

Viscosity of size paste:-

Viscosity of size pate should not deviate from required value. Less viscose paste makes adhesion of size material well but coating on the surface of the yarn is not done properly. While paste with higher viscosity coats the yarn very well but adhesion of paste into the core of yarn in terms of increasing its strength is not done properly.

Size box temperature control:-

The degree of size penetration and coating depends not only on the nature of yarn & the size solution but also upon the viscosity which in turn largely depends on the temperature. It should be about 200F°-206F°. Fluctuation should be ±3 F°. The temperature gauge should be installed on the size box. Perforated copper pipe lining is laid in the bottom of size box to supply the steam for keeping the paste warm up to the above mentioned temperature. Low temperature will make gelling of paste which will not penetrate through the yarn and higher temperature create thinning of the size paste which is also unsuitable to be used as sticky paste. So to maintain the temperature of above value is very important. If the size paste is prepared with rich PVA or CMC then temperature of 75C° to 80C° is sufficient.

Moisture content in the yarn:-

The moisture content in the sized yarn should not go below 6%. Otherwise the coating of size film will not allow absorbing moisture in the loom shed which is necessary for good working. For this moisture monitor is being supplied with the machine. The temperature of the drying cylinders should be kept 140-150 to maintain 6-7% moisture in the yarn.

Weaving

Weaving is the interlacing of warp filling yarns perpendicular to each other at

90degree. These are practically an endless number of ways of interlacing warp and filling yarn.

The waving machines are named after their filling insertion system. Schematics of the filling insertion systems that are used in the market are:

I. Shuttle II. Projectile III. Rigid rapier IV. Flexible rapier V. Air jet

VI. Water jet

Based on the filling insertion system, the weaving machine can be classified as shuttle and shuttle less weaving machines. Shuttle looms have been used for centuries to make woven fabrics.

Air Jet Looms or Air Jet Weft Insertion System

This system is most improved form of weft insertion. In this system, the mechanism and machine parts have been totally eliminated used to drive the weft insertion source. This facilitate to increase the insertion rate up to 2500 r.p.m this type of machine is firstly commercialized by Swedish engineer Max Paabo in 1951. Weft thread is propelled using compressed air. It is simple operation with reduced mechanical parts and hence the maintenance cost is very low.

The working principles of air jet weaving machines are based on carrying the yarn by the friction of the air jet. During the yarn’s forward movement by the air in the sheds, the velocity of the weft yarn decreases because of the decreasing pressure and the disturbance on the air flow direction. The air jet must provide a constant speed to the weft yarn along the weaving wideness. However, weft yarn of a certain mass is carried by a single jet at a limited distance. That is why the relay nozzles are installed at certain distances, in order to prevent a decrease in yarn velocity. The relay nozzle system and the general characteristics of the weft yarn speed in the shed. These are implemented on a movable hollow-needle or slay system. The basic function of the main jet is to load the weft yarn into the shed, and then to carry it to the first relay nozzle at a certain speed. The weft yarn suddenly reaches high velocity by means of the main jet. To preserve weaving defects and a synchronous beat-up movement, the weft yarn position and the instant velocity of the weft yarn must be fully controlled during the weaving process.

Advantages of Air-Jet Weaving Machine

 High productivity

 High filling insertion system

 Reduced hazard because of few moving parts

 Low noise and vibration

 Low spare parts requirements

 To increase the production of loom by increasing the speed and by increasing the width of loom

 Machines are versatile and roust to produces light to heavy value added fabric

 Almost all loom motions are being controlled electronically

 These looms can be operated up to 40 looms per operated

 Fully auto matic lubrication system

 Produce 100% export quality goods

LOOM MOTIONS

There are three types of loom motions which are given below-

Primary Loom Motions

a. Shedding b. Picking c. Beating d. Take-up motion e. Let-off motion Secondary Motion

a) Warp stop motion b) Weft stop motion c) Warp protector motion d) Weft replenishing motion

Auxiliary Motion a) Terry motion b) Selvedge motion

c) Weft petering motion d) Temples

e) Brake

After passing through different processes such as Spinning, Warping, Dyeing and Sizing this is a stage where Raw Fabric is processed and then finally it goes to Finishing Department.

Now this stage is processed through Zax a loom set which is basically a model of Machines. These Machines works with a speed of 700 to 750 Rotations per Minute (RPM). There are 203 Machines out of which 159 are Zax Machines and 44 (209i) Machines. There are 13 meters per Roll as per customer’s requirements and after making a Raw Fabric, it generally goes for detecting the defects. Generally, yarn is produced from cotton, filaments, Lycra, Poly-lycra.

Warp Beamers first installed to the Air jet loom set, which is Technology from Japan (Tsudakoma) and then after a weft is entered into nozzles through air pressure. Warp is seen vertically on these machines and weft is horizontal to it. Weft enters through sensors and passes the full lobby of warp and the dents of warp are set before starting the machine. Dents are defined as gap between two ends. The larger the dents the lesser will be the gap between two ends.

Generally, one machine produces 500 meters of Raw Fabric daily depends on picks. In addition, to produce in such a hassle environment you need to have 75 to 80 % of

humidity required in every textile mills and due to this 10% contraction of fabric takes place in weaving department.

There is inflow of cool atmospheric air from above floor and outflow of air ventilation is given at underground level. There is air blower attached on the above of such machines to remove unwanted fibers on machines, which is continuously rotating for cleaning purpose. After one beam is over there is a need for knotting to have a continuous production for Raw Fabric and for that, this department is having a Knotting machine to join the next beam. There are indicators on each machine for the Terminologies such as

T- Total Breakages W- Warp Damages F- Weft Breakages

L- Leno and other Breakages.

This indicators help operators in make out damages that occurs due to Dyeing and Sizing and sometimes due to weft also. Weft is procured from outside suppliers, so if there are more damages or breakages of weft then suppliers are to be aware and they will have to give more focus on these breakages. Due to hassle, working environment workers are given Earplugs and Masks due to humidity level. There are 100 workers in a shift and total there are 3 shifts and approximately 300 workers work in this department. Recycles wastewater and converts denim waste to denim paper, in keeping with their eco-friendly production process.

MAJOR DEFECTS:

• Band pick • Double end • Starting mark • Weft cut

The defect acceptance percentage at Arvind is 2.4 and efficiency is 85-87%, efficiency being measured in terms of number of picks to be inserted vis-à-vis actual number of picks inserted.

The object of weaving to produce the fabric by the interlacement of warp & weft. The other object is to produce defect free fabric by using the suitable mechanisms.

Classification of Weaving Machines:

Weaving machines are classified according to their filling insertion mechanism. The classification is as follows:

1. SHUTTLE LOOM 2. SHUTTLE-LESS - Rapier - Projectile - Air-Jet - Water-Jet AIR-JET WEAVING:

Air-jet weaving is a type of weaving in which the filling yarn is inserted into the warp shed with compressed air. Air-jet system utilizes a multiple nozzle systems and a profiled reed. Yarn is drawn from a filing supply package by the filing feeder and each pick is measured for the filling insertion by means of a stopper. Upon release of the filling yarn by the stopper, the filling is fed into the reed tunnel via tandem and main nozzles, which provide the initial acceleration. The relay nozzles provide the high air velocity across the weave shed. Profiled reed provides guidance for the air and separates the filling yarn from the warp yarn.

Process Flow Chart

LOOMING IN

It is process of drawing of warp yarn through the drop pins, heald frames, and reed which is then mounted on the loom for weaving.

KNOTTING IN

If the same weft & warp count, same weave are to be employed then the yarn from the new warp beam is tied to the previous one (end-end knotting). A knotting m/c is used for this purpose.

UNIT SPECIFICATIONS:

• No. of Looms: 203 Air jet Looms: 155 Air jet looms of model ZAX, 48 looms of type 209i.

• Average production capacity-2.7lakh meter/day.

• Average monthly production -80 lakh meter/day(product wise vary) . • 100% Denim oriented .

• Efficiency: 88% .

Reasons for low efficiency:

a) 4-5% efficiency loss due to electrical problems b) 1-2% efficiency loss due to material stock-out c) Absenteeism of workers

d) Maximum Operating Speed: 750 picks/min e) Operating speed: 663 picks/min

f) Selvedge Types: Loose, Reverse, Mat Selvedge

Defects and Faults commonly found after weaving:

- Floats - Short pick - Defective shedding - False Stop - Breakage - Missing Ends - Knots, Pulls - Fluffs - Size Residue - Start Marks

Different lights of signals and there meanings:

• Red: waste selvedge stop.

• Yellow: full leno selvedge stop, right hand. • Yellow: full leno selvedge stop, left hand • Green: weft stop by WF1 (color1)

• Green: weft stop by WF2 (color2) • White (Flashing): cloth beam full.

• White (Flashing): cloth beam to be doffed • White: stop switch pressed.

• White Flashing: Emergency stop button pressed.

• Green-TAPO: processing interrupted by an external access • Green-TAPO: Inoperable over.

Role of various categories of workers –

1. Responsibility of Weaver:-

• Attend warp breaks.

• To take details from previous shift weaver.

• To take proper quality round from front and back side of loom. • To doff cloth roller.

• Not to take selvedge yarn and other beam yarn into body of other yarn. • To clean area of drop pins, beam, and surrounding of loom.

• To throw warp and weft waste into waste box only. • Knot tail end of weft and creeling of package. • Selector and accumulator cleaning.

2. Responsibility of Knotter:-

• To take knotting machine and accessories properly.

• After every knotting clear knotting machine and accessories used. • At time of knotting, to clean loom as per preventive maintenance.

• To pass knot properly and pick dents, double ends, miss ends, wrong drawing and denting should be checked and corrected.

• If necessary, join extra weft clamp and straightening of every cross end. • If necessary, change weft yarn trolley.

3. Responsibility of Fitter:-

• In shift- To do proper cam changes, break down and running maintenance.

• Quality-

a) To attain fabric defects. b) To help loom technician.

c) To attain weft break, warp and Lena break.

4. Responsibility of Reliever:-

• To maintain proper weft trolley • To clean area of loom.

• To check all moving parts. • Creeling of weft.

• Knotting of tail ends. •

5.Responsibility of Transporter:-

• As per instruction of sift in charge, to bring appropriate drawn beam from drawing in department and transport empty beam into dyeing department.

• Make appropriate marking on cloth roller and transport it into finishing department.

• To keep spare pallet for charging.

• To fill transporter log book and take signature of finishing and weaving in charge.

• At time of sift change, take charge from previous shift and a end of shift, give to next.

• To keep beam pallet in proper condition. •

6. Responsibility of Drawer:-

• To make set and do drawing.

• To make extra and cross end proper. • To do work according to shift . •

7. Responsibility of Cleaner:-

• To clean floor and keep good housekeeping.

• After cleaning, to keep all waste in bag and keep it in waste area.

• To keep beam waste into bag and take weight of separate beam waste and keep in waste area.

• To do work as per instruction of shift in charge

MAN POWER DIVISION IN WEAVING

• 10 Looms / weaver

• Around 40 looms /supervisor • 1 knotter / 80 looms

• 2 dressers /80 looms • 4 helper / 80 looms

• 1 maintenance /shift 2 shift in charge

Key Points :-

• 206 machines (154ZAX) • 100% denim products

• Running 24 hours 364 days continuously • 1 day in a month to clean the waste • 3 shifts

• Worker strength= 415 • 251 per shift on machines

• 15 staff members (1 maintenance in charge, 1 quality in charge, 1 head of the department)

Technical Details Of The fabric -

• Twill- 3 by 1 • 5.3s count to 20 s

• Width of the fabric-64.5,68.5,71.5 • Maximum width possible is 119 mtrs. • Picks per inch 30ppi-68ppi

• Ends per inch : 52epi-104epi

Machine specification 1. ZAX- 750 rpm

2. Tsudakoma-650rpm

Diameter Range. 1100mm. 980mm Efficiency. 90%. 90% Details :-

500m length per machine depends on picks. Picks more = Production less

Machine Details :-

• 2 types of Stop Motion - Warp Stop Motion

• Weft Stop Motion - 2 stops. H1(edge),H2(excess) • Leno motion to balance the structure at the ends.

No of ends= no of heald shafts

Fabric twill= 3x1 and selvedge= 1x3 so that when it is passed through stenters, it is not damaged.

Preventive measures

Waste percentage: 2.4-2.5

• If stoppage more rpm less quality less.

• 750 rpm without stoppage and is calculated per 24 hours. • 36 stoppage in 24 hours are acceptable.

• Mending time will affect the quality of fabric.

• 1 beam of fabric requires 60 hours with minor stoppage. • 1 or 2 hours stop of machine after every beam.