TRAINING PROGRAM
Stefano Bemer offers a professional artisan educational program in the
craft of handmade men’s shoes.
The overall program is composed of three stages to be completed over the course of a year.
The first introductory stage presented here is for novices with a strong desire to acquire the basic skill
set and knowledge base of hand-made shoes. The introductory or “apprentice” level program lasts for
three months.
Students may then apply for the second of “artisan” level which also lasts for three months of intensive
study and work before progressing to the “maestro” level. In order to access the second level, students
will be asked to pass an exam. The “artisan” and “maestro” programs are open to students who have
completed the previous levels of study with Stefano Bemer or to applicants in the field who have a solid
foundation and experience. Applicants for the Apprentice and Artisan levels have first priority in
enrollment selection.
The Maestro level is reserved for two or three of the best students from the Artisan level but favor those
who have followed the complete Stefano Bemer training (Apprentice and Artisan Levels). Those in the
Maestro level have a chance to eventually become part of the Stefano Bemer Shoemaking team.
Today, the name of Stefano Bemer is
recognized as one of the most exclusive
shoemakers in the world.
The story began inauspiciously as Mr. Bemer started out in the leather trade and later began repairing shoes in Greve in Chianti in the early 1980’s before moving to Florence where he apprenticed with a traditional custom shoemaker for several years
before opening his own workshop in 1987. His outlook on developing his trade was centered on “learning from mistakes” and adhering to time-honored tradition and
technique.
The production of an outstanding pair of bespoke shoes only can begin with the selection of the best leather and components. Beautiful leather skins are cut for the
uppers, the leather skin for the soles and soaked in water for about twelve hours, then wrapped in paper and beaten on a stone with a hammer. This helps shape the leather’s resistance and pliability, which in the end increase the shoe’s comfort and
longevity. The sewing thread used for the welt and sole is also made in-house. Stefano Bemer utilizes an ancient technique of twisting linen thread with pitch and beeswax. Lastly, the small amount of glue used is non-synthetic. When the shoes are completed, they arrive to the client in their own signature wooden box, marked with his initials. They also come with a set of shoes trees that are custom made to exactly fit the shoes they were made for, a pair of shoe bags, a tin of Stefano Bemer’s custom
shoe wax, its applying brush, a large dusting brush “ a crine lungo” , and most importantly, a silver sixpence coin as a token for “good luck.”
Today, at Stefano Bemer, we continue both to produce the best Bespoke and Ready To Wear shoes as well as train aspiring shoemakers in the traditions and dedication
to quality that represents the cultural heritage of Stefano Bemer.
IN ASSOCIATION
Scuola del Cuoio
was created after World War II through the collaborative efforts of the Franciscan friars of the Monastery of Santa Croce and the Gori and Casini families, Florentine leather artisans since the 1930’s.Their mission was to give orphans of the war a means to learn a practical trade with which to earn a living. Santa Croce, with its strategic position along the banks of the Arno river, since the 13th century had been historically the district where the industries that required great quantities of water were concentrated. The tanners of via delle Conce and via dei Conciatori, just a few steps from the garden entrance of the Monastery and Scuola del Cuoio, were an important part of
the Santa Croce neighborhood with the dyers of Corso dei Tintori and even the soap makers of via dei Saponai. The tanned hides were used for centuries for the
leather manufacturing of the city and at the Monastery itself to cover the great manuscripts. Postwar, Scuola del Cuoio brought those traditions back to the
Monastery.
The unique location, the quality of its products and the commitment to tradition has made Scuola del Cuoio famous. Scuola del Cuoio today remains the largest genuine laboratory in the city where clients can witness the artisans create leather goods in the midst of centuries-old history. With the passing of Silvano Casini and Marcello Gori in 2003, two of the founding fathers of Scuola del Cuoio, today the
original vision lives on through Marcello Gori’s family as his three daughters, Laura, Francesca, and Barbara, and grandson Tommaso (Laura’s son) manage the
company and training programs. The Gori family continues to be committed to the great tradition of quality products and personal customer service which has
allowed Scuola del Cuoio to establish a refined clientele worldwide Scuola Del Cuoio
Training
Location:
Stefano Bemer Academy Via San Niccolò 2 50125 Firenze (Italia)
Duration:
Apprentice Level: January 18 to April 8 2016
Artisan Level: April 11 to July 8 2016 (week off: june 13-17) Maestro Level: September 5 to November 25 2016
Attendance:
Mandatory attendance; classes and workshop hours are Monday – Friday
from 10.30 AM to 1.30 PM and from 2.00 to 5.00 PM.
Levels:
Apprentice (introductory level) Artigiano (secondary level) Maestro (final level)
Language:
English or Italian
Academic Requirements:
High school diploma; A high-intermediate level of the English or Italian language sufficient to understand and participate in lessons(corresponding to level TOEFL 450); 18 years of age
at moment of application.
Number of participants:
Enrollment is limited to 10 students.
Program Level and Basic Description:
This intensive three-month program is the introduction to basic techniques and methodology to make hand-made men’s shoes. Students who complete this course may continue
Classes meet Monday through Friday with both morning and afternoon sessions. In addition, students will be working outside of class time on their projects. Homework includes individual and group works. This program is a hands-on, practical, old-masters approach to learning the artisan craft of shoemaking. Instructors are all professionals in the field who will impart both their theoretical and practical abilities as well as their real world experience as a shoemaker.
Apprentice level fee: 6,800 € (Vat included). If booked together with the second level (Artigiano), the price is 12,800 € including an Italian Language course.
Fees include:all class works, lessons, use of laboratories, and Vat tax.
Not included: accommodation and meals, airfare, airport transfer and meals, particular equipping requested.
Lesson Plan
Structure and Method
The approximate program curriculum for the introductory “apprentice” level include: 1) Artisan Techniques (70 hours), 2) Bespoke Shoemaking(20 hours),
3) Last Analysis and Last Making(70 hours), 4) Leather Cutting Techniques (20 hours), 5) Upper Stitching (20 hours).
In addition there is also the Workshop Practicum where students will spend 160 hours.
This is an introductory program for beginners (360 - divided between specific modules and supervised project completion in the workshop).
Students should be motivated and focused on working in the field of hand-made shoemaking and be prepared to dedicate study and work time over and above the classroom times
indicated in the course modules.
Students must reach a sufficient level in terms of their knowledge and quality of technique in order to progress to the next level of the program.
The Apprentice program level is composed of five phases of curriculum. The entire learning Process is guided by is with master craftsmen who are professional artisans selected by Stefano Bemer’s staff. Each one of these introductory modules requires students to execute practice and project in the workshop where they will be supervised at all times.
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Artisan Techniques
Starting with the knowledge of shoemaking tools and the correct handling and use of show forms and tools, students will learn how to stretch the shoe model onto the form, the manipulation and contention of the shoe model, right before the sole shoe model is then stretched over the form and slowly manipulated and constructed, the sole attached and nailed and the materials completely assembled without machinery and in full respect of the health of the foot.
Bespoke Shoemaking
Students will learn the process of Bespoke shoemaking from the initial measurements to finishing touches according to Stefano Bemer’s experience and traditional craft techniques.
Last Analysis And Last Making
Starting from the wooden last, participants analyze the shape, last, contour and proportions of the foot, as well as the influence that posture and movement have on shoemaking. Students will then practice cutting and developing lasts.
Leather Cutting Techniques
The study of different types of leather and their characteristics. Leather usage for specific shoe pieces (soles, upper, etc) depending on their thickness, softness and resistance and the techniques and methods for their correct cutting.
Upper Stitching
Having prepared and cut each shoe piece, they are then thinned or reinforced and prepared for assemblage and sewing. The methods of correct flat machine sewing are also studied.
Working Practicum
Students will work in a professional workshop (free workshop) practicing and perfecting the use of tools and techniques learned during the
individual modules.
Much of the “workshop” time is devoted to the completion of
assign-Artigiano Level
After having successfully completed the Apprentice level, students are welcome to continue to the Artigiano level where they will upgrade and practice the skills acquired from the first module.
Dates: April 11 to July 8, 2016
Maestro Level
Students selected for the third module are individually assigned to a single maestro and will assist him on his activities day to day. Price and
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Stefano Bemer
Via San Niccolò 2
50125 Firenze
(Italia)
Ph: +39.055.046.0476
Fax: +39.055.046.0477
[email protected]
www.stefanobemer.com
P.Iva IT06321030485
Stefano Bemer
Bespoke Shoemaker
Commitment and motivation are the only pre-requisites we ask to our prospective students, for they will have to face an intensive (6 hours a day, 5 days a week) training program in order to become flags of Stefano Bemer’s shoemaking philosophy. Either they develop their career by becoming part of our staff or
they go their own way.
Please note that, as opposed to any other school, we provide all the materials and tools throughout the course, with the only exception of the last project you would be working on, which is your own bespoke shoes (last and maerials for the project are selected by the students. A rough estimate of the cost is around
200 euros).
