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Gunsmithing and Firearm Modification

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The Explosives and Weapons Forum > Military Science > Gunsmithing and Firearm Modification > Silencer

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Silencer

November 26th, 2001, 08:47 PM Kdogg

I have recently made one by takin a small piece of pipe & drilled holes in it like a shroud. Then put it in a 20oz. pop bottle, Through holes in both ends. I then put a little tape around my barrel to get a tighter fit inside the pipe. It nearly cut the sound in half I was surprised. Have any of you ever made one if so please share how well it worked, & how you made it.

---Monkeyman

November 27th, 2001, 07:22 AM EventHorizon

Baffle type are simple to make. If you are fortunate to have some metal working equipment you can eaisly fabricate one. If I can ever get my spare PSU back I can scan the silencer book I have.

---"Chance favors a prepared mind" - Louis Pasteur "Happiness is a large pile of links." - Me

PGP ID 0x147CEF54

November 27th, 2001, 09:23 AM CyclonitePyro

(In various dreams)

I experimented with the bottle types, I heated the end of them to make them soft and then shot a hole through it to make a perfectly placed hole, they work well but are not practical and are large.

I make the silencers for my Ruger 10/22, I also have a Bultler Creek folding stock in it and a scope, and some smaller accessories like an extended mag, release, auto bolt release and bolt buffer.

Use subsonic rounds for it, their velocity is just below the speed of sound so the make no sonic boom while flying, that is where most of your sound comes from, I buy 500rd bricks of them and they don't last long with a 50rd clip.

The silencer I use now is a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe, it slides right on the barrel and has and L shaped notch in it so it can slide on past the sight on the end of the barrel and then you twist in so it locks in place and won't slide off. In the middle of it is a metal washer held in place by small sloped nails and PVC glue, The inner hole of the washer is just right for a .22 bullet. On the end are two rubber grommets held in place by nails and PVC glue. It is painted flat black and looks just like a

maufactured silencer and works great.

I built it so that neighbors wouldn't complain, and it works well for its purpose. If not for them then I really wouldn't have cared about the noise.

It works nice for shooting animals, Cananda Geese for example, one drops, and the one next to it has no freakin idea what happened, where if not for the silencer, the whole flock would have flew away.

---"Friends don't let friends play with Nitrogen Triiodide"

"If you are fortunate to have some metal working equipment you can eaisly fabricate one." I have every thing I would need, Cutting/welding torch, plasma cutter, Wire & arc welders, & a metal lathe. Do you have any good ideas? Im thinking of making it with the same idea, just with a pipe so its smaller than a pop bottle, that way aiming is more accurate.

---Monkeyman

November 27th, 2001, 08:24 PM CyclonitePyro

What imaginary gun is this silencer for?

If your talking to me, This/these "Imaginary" guns are a Savage .22, & an AR-7 .22. I also have a 30-06, but am not going slide a metal silincer onto it, as I do not want to scratch it. It is one of my most prized possesions. Oh yeah, I also have an old bolt action mossberg 20 gauge w/ a 2 round clip. It is also one of my favorites.

---Monkeyman

November 30th, 2001, 04:41 AM twinkle

information on a high powered rifle silencer goto here : http://guns.connect.fi/rs/btxgraaf.html

http://guns.connect.fi/rs/mxgraaf.html http://guns.connect.fi/rs/Reflex.html

as for improvising (for a .22LR)you can use beerbottle caps which you reshape till they fit nicely in a tube or you could use aluminium screenwire winded up to a roll and then taped onto a barrel

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Hey CyclonitePyro so how does your silencer work on your "IMAGINARY" Ruger 10/22. Oh yeah why dont you use your imagination & think up a shotgun to make a silencer for, so your dont have to use a .22 hunting geese?

---Monkeyman

November 30th, 2001, 03:31 PM kingspaz

you can't silence a shotgun can you? someone correct me if i'm wrong since i don't know much about guns. the shot doesn't make an airtight fit with the barrel so the gas behind the round can't be absorbed by the silencer as the bullet goes past. well thats how i allways thought a silencer worked.

November 30th, 2001, 03:37 PM Cricket

Someone once said that a loaf of bread over the muzzle will silence a .22 nicely.

---"You will not be taught the knowledge you seek, you must teach yourself." - Megalomania

November 30th, 2001, 04:02 PM zaibatsu

I don't know a lot about shotguns, but doesn't the wad (?) make an airtight seal? Anyway, I have seen silenced barrels for shotguns, advertised in Gun Mart for anyone from the UK

---Handguns don't kill people... Half as well as full-auto

Visit me at www.surf.to/eliteforum (http://www.surf.to/eliteforum)

November 30th, 2001, 04:07 PM Predator

What a good memory you have.. that was my stating a loaf of bread worked nicely in my dream. Anyone tried that method out yet?

Someone was joking saying we should write out bread-loaf silencer specifications; kaiser rolls for this, buns for that lol [This message has been edited by Predator (edited 11-30-2001).]

November 30th, 2001, 04:17 PM Cricket

I thought it was you, but wasn't sure. I live in the city now and can't test it or I would. Maybe on vacation for Chriatmas I will be able to.

---"You will not be taught the knowledge you seek, you must teach yourself." - Megalomania

"Someone once said that a loaf of bread over the muzzle will silence a .22 nicely." What a waste of bread!

I have not tried silencing a shotgun before, one mm to the wrong direction & the shot blow it clean off.

---Monkeyman

December 1st, 2001, 01:00 AM

BoB-In that same thread it was mentioned that a potato over the muzzle of a .22 would silence it. I've dreamed of silencing a 30-06 with a watermelon stuck on the barell, worked great.

---Teamwork is essential.

It lets you blame someone else.

[This message has been edited by BoB- (edited 12-01-2001).]

December 1st, 2001, 05:23 AM HMTD Factory

Muffling the muzzle changes point of impact a

lot ,so they are not likely practical. An old fashioned silencer is simply a multi-chambered attachment on the muzzle so the powder gas have time to expand and depressurize before it's released outside(the lower the pressure is, the smaller the sound)

December 1st, 2001, 10:19 AM Anthony

I've seen silencers for shotguns for sale too.

"one mm to the wrong direction & the ... blow it clean off."

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Surely that's going to be true of almost any projectile?

I can see a melon working as the internal cavity would act as an expansion chamber. But a potato is dense and water soaked so I doubt it would really absorb any sound. Bread would work well because of the porus nature of it, loads of connected air pockets that the gas can expand into.

December 1st, 2001, 10:20 AM CyclonitePyro

The silencer I was talking about works great, you 80% of the sound you do hear comes from the bolt clanking back and forth. That's why I bought the bolt buffer, instead of the bolt hitting a metal pin in the back of the reciever it hits a soft polyurethane pin, much more quiet.

December 1st, 2001, 03:47 PM Fingerless

Cyclonite, how long is your PVC silencer? I purchased some 1/2" PVC to make a silencer for my 10/22 but it was about the same size as the barrel, are you sure thats the size you have? I'll have to get some 3/4 and try it. Are the rubber grommets on the end of the silencer that slides over the gun muzzle or at the opposite end of the silencer? What purpose does the washer in the middle of the tube serve? I'm not sure what its for, to create multiple chambers? Thanks, it sounds like a good system if it works as good as you say, I'd like a quiet system for shooting squirrels in town. I purchased a couple hundred American Eagle subsonic rounds a month or so a go in plan to do that, but I still need a silencer. Where do I get this replacement pin at?

Eventhorizon, that would be great if you could put some designs/ideas from your book on.

December 4th, 2001, 07:53 PM CyclonitePyro

Hey, Fingerless, sorry I took so long, I had to sleep and dream to measure it, and remember what the PVC I used is called. I know what you mean I tried regular 1/2" and it was too small, then I used 3/4" and I had to make a complicated adapter, and it was less practical.

The PVC I found is called Rigid PVC, get the 1/2" It's grey instead of white, I think it's used for electrical stuff, like putting wires through. It makes an almost perfect fit. My dream silencer is 10" long and slides over the barrel so 8" protrudes off the barrel. And yes you're right I used the washer in the center to make two separate chambers. And the grommets go at the end of your silencer, you don't have to use grommets, you could use washers but I found perfectly fitting grommets. And then just make sure you find a way to make them stay in place.

December 5th, 2001, 05:32 AM Fingerless

Good ideas Cyclonite, but where did you get your bolt buffer at for your 10/22? I haven't seen them before, and would like one.

I've studied up on silencers a bit and am currently developing one for .22's and one for .45's and the .22 is coming along nicely. I've found a good adapter for the barrel is a large, dense high grade cork. One end of the cork is epoxied into your silencer tube and the other end is drilled slightly smaller than your barrel and the barrel is slid in. Then a 1/4 inch whole is drilled all the way through the cork for the bullet. FOr my silencer I'm utilizing a thin aluminum tube with copper cross tubes inside bedded in probablly epoxy, I don't know yet I'm not that far. Then fiberglass insulation will be put in the spaces and a washer will be brazed to the end. I'll let you know the complete plans and everything if it works out well.

O yeah I forgot about that. Go to ebay and type ruger 10/22, you will find a bunch of bolt buffers and other cool accessories, like a ventilated handguard. Or you could go to www.gunaccessories.com (http://www.gunaccessories.com) they have em

December 5th, 2001, 04:02 PM Kdogg

Does anyone have any info on a .22 LR full auto converstion??

---Monkeyman

December 5th, 2001, 05:36 PM EventHorizon

I've got info on converting the 10/22 to select fire. As soon as I get my scanner up and going I'll scan it.

PS: NBK (or anyone else, I know NBK has mentioned it), do you have a good OCR program. I can't seem to find either of the top 2 in a full install package, only serials.

PGP ID 0x147CEF54

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"I've got info on converting the 10/22 to select fire. As soon as I get my scanner up and going I'll scan it." That sounds great, I am very interested! Thanks

---Monkeyman

December 6th, 2001, 09:08 AM twinkle

I do have drawings of converting a Winchester model 64& model 490 cal .22 for semi and full auto if you like

Yes, twinkle. Please send them. It would be great for imformational purposes only.

---Monkeyman

December 6th, 2001, 09:21 PM EventHorizon

I have the Silencer PDF done, hope its acceptable quality for ya'll.

As soon as I verify that Adobe didn't stick some hidden info in the file somewhere, I'll post to my Yahoo breifcase and post a link here. Soon to follow, converting the 10/22 to FA.

EDIT:

Here is where to find the file.

http://briefcase.yahoo.com/eventhorizon308

PGP ID 0x147CEF54

[This message has been edited by EventHorizon (edited 12-07-2001).]

I will send them as you can tell me where to ? I did not see an email address

December 7th, 2001, 11:47 AM SawedOff8gaugeman

Twinkle, a suggestion: upload them somewhere and then post a link.

I thought you were going to post them here, Anyways Bigrussel7@hotmail

---Monkeyman

I mailed the drawings to Kdogg while I have no idea how to post something on the www but if you want them to SawedOff8gaugeman I can send them to .

December 8th, 2001, 10:37 AM Kdogg Thanks Twinkle ---Monkeyman December 8th, 2001, 05:36 PM Fingerless

I got some new ammunition for my .22 today that I have to tell you guys about. One type is called Aguila SSS (Sniper sub sonic)the other type are called Aguila super colibri's. The SSS's are built on a short case but have a 60(!) grain bullet. Overall they are the same size and profile as a .22 long rifle and cycle the same as a .22 LR. Due to the bullet being 50% heavier than a standard solid long rifle bullet, they have much more kinetic energy and "knock down power". They also retain there speed much better than a standard .22 LR-also, they are subsonic and very quiet, but still have the oomph of a long rifle 40 grainer. They are very consistent and accurate and might make decent target rounds. They drop tree rats and rabbits like a ton of bricks. I shot a rabbit in the body from 50 yards with my 10/22 today and it was dead by the time I got to it.

THe super colibri is a standard long rifle case, but theres no powder in it! It has a small 20 grain lead bullet that is propelled by merely the priming compound-don't laugh, its more powerful than it seems. I dented a plate of mild sheet steel from 30 yards or so. I also killed a rabbit today with one cleanly with a head shot from about 25 yards. They are subsonic, and very quiet, and don't travel too far. But they are extremely consistent and accurate. They are no louder than a air rifle, maybe quieter, even without a suppressor. I'm not sure of the velocity, its somewhere around 500 FPS I think I read. THe SSS are 950 or so, but I'll check on those numbers. You guys should check these rounds out.

Anyone else have experience with these rounds? What have you concluded? Like/no?

Cyclonite, what subsonic rounds are you shooting-I also got some remington subsonics but they occassionaly go supersonic.

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I use Remingtons subsonics, I've never had them go supersonic, regular .22 ammo's velocity is between 1055 fps and 1100 fps, the speed of sound is 1055 fps, Remingtons subsonics are 1049 fps, right under the sound barrier, so its like shooting reg, ammo without the noise.

I'll have to try some other brands, but I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference since I like to just walk aroung and randomly unload on shit. I only shoot animals when there is is one unlucky enough to be near me, I don't sit and wait for animal with my .22

That's where my rifle comes in, when I go hunting I use a Savage .300, I shot a doe in the head this season, always wanted to do that. It dropped right away, when I walked to it, its legs were still moving and I didn't know at the time if I had a head shot, and I didn't want it getting up and biting me J/K, so I shot it point blank in the head, again. Messy!

December 9th, 2001, 05:42 PM Anthony

20gr at 500fps is just over 11ft/lb! No wonder they're about as loud as an air rifle:) Ok for rabits, but people no way.

All you can basically hear is the click. No boom, nothing, it doesnt even move the action.

---Monkeyman

December 11th, 2001, 05:18 PM Fingerless

Yes, surely not enough for people. But excellent for the "backyard" hunter! If you wanted to hunt a person, theoretically of course, the Aguila SSS pushing a 60 grain bullet at around 900 fps would be very well subsuited-in a closed action and with a silencer its very quiet I've concluded.

December 13th, 2001, 12:04 AM Jhonbus

Just a note about the use of a potato as a silencer. While doing some research (actually on a semi/full auto air gun "potato gun") I found this document:

Interior Ballistic Deformation, by Mike Haag (Albuquerque New Mexico P.D.) Abstract:

None.

During the investigation of a murder in Albuquerque, eight bullet fragments were recovered from the victim and potato fragments were recovered from the scene. The victim was shot three times.

It appears that the potato was used as a silencer placed over the barrel of the firearm used in the murder. The potato found at the scene was tested and positive reactions for lead residues was noted.

Additional tests were conducted to see if a potato actually worked as a silencer. Mr. Haag's results found that the potato did not effectively silence a revolver. A potato used on a semi-auto firearm did reduce the volume of the gunshot.

The potato reduced bullet velocities from around 950 feet per second to near 600 feet per second.

The bullets recovered from having been fired with the potato on the barrel were very elongated and "wasp-waisted". Mr. Haag found that when the potato was placed on the barrel a plug of potato is pushed into the barrel. With the rest of the potato removed, bullets fired down the barrel had this deformation. He concluded the bullet deformation was occurring in the barrel and not externally.

---You must create.

PGP Key ID on MIT server: 0x0ADBA985

January 5th, 2002, 02:12 PM atropine

ive seen a silenced shotgun in my local gunshop, the thing is so huge and bulky i doubt it is practical enough to bother with. I asked how much it silences the crack. He said about 10% on a good day. Oh and in a dream i made a silenced zip gun running from primer driven pellets. The silencer appeared to be a piece of aluminium tubing with a series of spacers and baffles. If i could have heard anything in this dream i would have said that it silenced the bang very very nicely, to about that of a co2 pistol.

January 5th, 2002, 03:57 PM zaibatsu

Thats why you use subsonic ammo with the silenced shotguns, although there is a point to using a silencer with a supersonic load (be it bullet or shot) thats not really what people are talking about in this thread.

May 29th, 2002, 04:08 AM shane

i have in a folder of some improvised explosives and within that is a list of where you can get product and one of the is a silence "kit" as a kit it is not legal to purchase (as far as i know i live in australia so my knowledge of american law is a bit

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sketchy)but you can attach this silencer on a ruger mark 1 (i think i have the address and info stored away)but if anyone wants the address give me a buzz at [email protected] any other stuff you want to know about let me know

May 29th, 2002, 04:15 PM xoo1246

Mmm, I wish I had an imaginary Ruger Mk II. Gun laws around here forces you to join a shooting club and be in it for two month before buying one. I'll probably have to do that.

May 29th, 2002, 11:42 PM McGuyver

If someone had a metal lathe and all the goodies for making metal into nice things, they could fabricate a pipe that was the perfect diameter for their bullet. They could even rifle it. Many holes would then be put in this piece of pipe. The holes allow the gases to go into your air chamber(below) instead of out the muzzle. Then two washers could be welded onto the two ends of the pipe maybe a 1/2 an inch away from the end. The holes would only be between the two washers. Then, on the outside of the washers(or outer edge) there would be a piece of pipe to create a nice air chamber for the rapidly expanding gases. The pipe would of course be welded to the washers. The barrel could be threaded inside or out, and then your silencer could also be threaded to make a removable silencer in case some pigs catch you using it, and you have to chuck it somewhere. You will have to work on threading yourself because every gun is different. You can also vary length and volume of air chamber to your specs. Make sure everything is perfect, you wouldn't want it blowing up in your face. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" /> It may be a good idea to make the inner pipe a bit larger were the bullet first enters. Test it by puting a tight fitting dowel or something that fits tight inside the silencer, through the silencer, and into the barrel, if there is any (I mean any!) resistance between the the silencer and barrel do something about it. Also, make sure the bullet fits without any resistance. You should also test it from a distance a few times just to be on the safe side-like standing behind a tree or something that will stop metal shards. This should make the gun just as accurate as it was before the silencer but much quieter. I built a silencer like Cyclonite's but without 2 chambers and quite a bit longer. It is great for silencing but the accuracy is not to good. I would love to make a silencer like this but I do not have all the metal fabrication goodies needed, mind you this all came from a dream.

June 2nd, 2002, 10:29 AM Probe

OOOOK, here it gos, I recently have aquired a .22 for myself, and want to make a silencer for it (that bitch is loud, bolt action, and the clip didnt work { falling apart }, so now its basicly breech loaded, anyways back to the quiestion), I have no metal working tools, and I would prefur to use PVC because I already have some laying around. My barrle is unthreaded( :( ) and such so it will be a bit harder. Does anyone have any plans they got layin around for this purpose? I dont have exact mesurements but I'll get 'em if you need them.

I need it to be pretty small, and I'll probobly have a tripple chamber, 1 pipe inside another and the one that the bullet pass's through will have holes and 2 chambers to expand better. Any input would be apriciated(sp?) ty :) , forgot to mention the annoying neghbores(sp) who dis-aprove of guns. :rolleyes:

June 2nd, 2002, 01:26 PM CyclonitePyro

A .22 loud?, Do you mean in comparison to othere .22's?, .22's are quiet compared to other guns. Is shooting legal where you live? If so find a place to shoot so that it isn't dangerous to anyone and annoy those scum sucking neighbors of yours, unless your parents are on good terms with them.

Your goal of finding a silencer is no different from the other people here, I wish I had a threaded barrel. Try to see if you have "rigid PVC" that fits on the end of most .22's, it is grey 1/2" pipe that is meant for containing electrical lines. Also, read above what was written in the past.

June 2nd, 2002, 01:49 PM Fl4PP4W0k

Hey guys, has anyone ever made an, ahem, "Zip" Gun using standard .22 primers and Air Rifle pellets? I had an interesting idea that kinda expanded on my old .22primer\6mm graphite BB trick....

Basically, its using a .22 primer and a .22 air rifle pellet but with an air rifle barrel. Would anyone thats maybe tried this method compare power with a standard 850+fps air rifle?

As i do not have an air rifle, i can not compare power :\ (the only air guns i have are 12ga+ :D )

By using this with a silencer and standard break action, it would be pretty good fer taking down the odd backyard kritters that may roam into your domain :mad:

About the silencer.... I was thinking about a vented 6mm tubing that fits the air rifle pellet pretty well, and releases to a 15mm PVC pipe length - the gap filled with that non-static foam???

Any suggestions or info, thx

rob

June 3rd, 2002, 01:41 AM Probe

No, my .22 is VERY loud, you can hear it for about a mile, thanks for the help with the pipe, I'll grab one in the morning. And I'm underaged for a firearm, I'm not going to go out killing people, just shoot targets in my backyard (filled with flashpowder of course.)

I piss off the neighbors already, I told them that it was an air rifle when they came over wondering what the noise was. They responded "Thats one loud air rifle" I ended up saying "Yeah it uses a whole CO2 cartridge at once"

June 3rd, 2002, 04:07 PM xoo1246

Fl4PP4W0k: I once tried to load some friction/heat/shock sensitive mixture I extracted from some caps (you use when you fish on the ice, like larger toy caps) behind a .177 air rifle bullet. This was some time ago, anyway, the speed was icreased and it was noticable better in pentrating targets. I helpt eroding the barrel too.

I doubt you can hear a .22 from a mile in urban/woody areas.

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[ June 03, 2002, 03:09 PM: Message edited by: xoo1246 ]

June 4th, 2002, 08:10 PM Anthony

Fl4PP4W0k, I'd forget the primer and just use a .22LR blank if you can't get complete .22 rounds. An air rifle pellet is a bit light but it will give you more muzzle energy than most air rifles.

June 5th, 2002, 07:13 AM Fl4PP4W0k

Yer, thx Anthony - but you need a license for blank ammunition in backwards Australia methinks. I know that .22 primers are purchaseable in tins of 100 at the local army surplus store.. so that is me reason for the preoject :D

But ofcourse, if one can get .22 Blanks, then by all means they would be better. Im just proposing something that is totally license free, but more powerful than a good air rifle ( as you need a license for even THEM!!!)

l8r, rob

June 5th, 2002, 08:35 AM ShotgunsAreFun

.22 primers from a surplus store in Australia?! We cant buy air rifle pellets! Where do you get primers from?

June 5th, 2002, 09:42 AM Fl4PP4W0k

*evil grin* muhuhahahaha >:]

What state are you in?

Bcoz in WA, they arent considered munitions. :D $12.50 for a tin of 100

Not too bad...

June 5th, 2002, 09:07 PM ShotgunsAreFun

I hate NSW.

Can primers be sent through the mail? I mean, in a box or something. Or do they x-ray them? I know that primers can be used as the propellant for practice bullets, they send a plastic round out at 300-400 fps... a couple of those behind a blowdart should be interesting :D

[ June 05, 2002, 08:16 PM: Message edited by: ShotgunsAreFun ]

June 5th, 2002, 10:48 PM electric emu

Im pretty sure you can order through the mail with out hazardous shipping through a place like natchezs or lock stock barrel. I dont know about austrailia. and how do you get .22 primers thats a rimfire caliber and its built in unless you take it apart on your own.

[ June 05, 2002, 09:55 PM: Message edited by: electric emu ]

June 6th, 2002, 04:51 AM Magas

Primers can't be sent through the mail in oz as they are classed as explosives. You do need a license to buy blanks for a 22 however you don't need a license to by Ramset charges which are 22 blanks just be over 18 stupid laws :)

June 6th, 2002, 05:50 AM Fl4PP4W0k

They arent technically "primers", theyre actually crimped .22 brass that only contains a primer, about half the length of a .22 short casing.

l8r

June 7th, 2002, 09:57 PM Whitey

probe if you just want to quiet the gun down for target practice you could use quieter ammo. Try "cb caps" made by CCI. They are low powered rounds and are about 3/4 of the length of a regular .22lr. I have tried them myself and they are about as loud as a pellet gun. I would reccomend these because if you get caught with the gun you don't want to get busted for a silencer as well. Also if someone sees your rifle with a piece of pipe hanging off the muzzle they will know what it is.

The downside is that they usually don't have enough power to cycle a semi auto. But that doesn't matter since your rifle is a single shot bolt action anyway.

June 8th, 2002, 03:07 AM PYRO500

I have herd of those cb pellets, I herd they were just a primer driving a very light projectile. I think they are just for short range/indoor paper punch and I would suspect they would do a little less damage than a cheapo rusted out 20 buck pellet gun. a while back someone (NBK2000?) posted a link to silent cartredge ammo that would need no silencer and had something with the cartrage to absorb most of the gas so there wasn't that loud a blast. The downside was reduced lethality

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although, when do you need to use a silenced pistol long range?

June 8th, 2002, 11:52 AM Sparky

Maybe this is a stupid idea, but for people who can't get blank rounds maybe they could try the charges from nail guns. They are kind of like a blank round but I'm not sure if they would fit into a .22 bore. For people who can't get ammunition and want to make a zip gun this could be an idea.

June 8th, 2002, 06:00 PM Whitey

pyro, your basically correct they are actually designed so that you can practice shooting inside your basement or something and not damage your hearing or alert your neighbors. I know they are useful for eliminating pests but I wouldn't trust them for self defense. But since I think he is mainly interested in target practise the cb caps might fit his situation.

If he was looking something that was quiet but still fairly destructive, subsonic rounds (aguilla) might be worth a try.

June 8th, 2002, 06:20 PM xoo1246

I have read that the aguilla aren't as good as they claim to be, try different brands and compare them. No personal experience.

June 21st, 2002, 01:29 PM Harry

A body could try using the "end caps" from 35mm film rolls--walk in to you local photofinisher and ask for the contents of their film recycle bag. "Unroll" the empty 35mm rolls (you may get a sore finger or 2) and save the ends. You now have several corrugated steel circles with holes in the center, ALL the same size! Use some imagination for the body of your muffler.

July 21st, 2002, 11:19 AM auzquad

learn to spell

[ July 22, 2002, 07:18 AM: Message edited by: Machiavelli ]

July 21st, 2002, 08:51 PM Anthony

Yes, if you're making a silencer then you want to make the size of the chambers between the baffles different sizes (and not multiples of each other), to better absorb the different wavelengths of sound.

July 22nd, 2002, 01:04 AM McGuyver

The key is to find a straight piece of pipe (preferably steel) that has the exact same inner diameter as your barrel. If you find that then your set.

If anyone has a good source for pipe that has an inner diameter of .22, let me know please. I have the same silencer as cyconite's but with the silencer it is inaccurate. With a pipe inside the silencer to guide the bullet it should be just as accurate without it.

July 22nd, 2002, 04:38 PM Anthony

A silencer the diameter of your calibre isn't going to really make any difference to muzzle noise. Or do you mean drilling the calibre matched tube so that the propellant gas escapes and expands into the silencer casing outside of the pipe?

That could be effective, but I'm not sure that it would work as the transition of the bullet from the muzzle into the pipe coul shave the bullet or make it bounce along the pipe slightly. It'd be hard to get the pipe as tight as the barrel otherwise the bullet would probably rip the silencer off :)

July 22nd, 2002, 04:50 PM Anthony Privratsky

A few years ago i remember watching a show that had an improvised silencer in it. This kid murdered this other kids family for him. :( And he had made a silencer using a carbon tube that had 3 tennis balls pushed into the tube. The tennis balls distributed the sound very well.

I might do an experiment using that same idea later this week.

July 22nd, 2002, 09:16 PM McGuyver

Yes, I did mean drilling holes in the pipe and having that enclosed in a larger pipe. Just having a pipe there would do nothing to silence it.

I would definitely test any homemade silencer remotely a few times before used normally. I've seen a few fly apart already. You definitely would have to stick some kind of rod or dowel down your barrel to make sure they are aligned properly- even then it should be tested a few times.

July 23rd, 2002, 02:03 AM Tyler_Durden

i was just thinking about a way to silence rifles...

what's wrong with drilling the barrel or the rifle, instead of adding to it?

then, add another pipe around it w/ holes in it, and maybe even another if you wanted to.

this method would mean that you dont have to worry about alignment, the loss of aim would be minimal, and overall it would be a lot easier to make.

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what do you all think of this?

edit: of course you would want to do this with an inexpensive rifle (sks perhaps), and it would be permanent, so the rifle definitely couldnt be found by the authorities!

[ July 23, 2002, 01:06 AM: Message edited by: Tyler_Durden ]

July 23rd, 2002, 04:53 AM john_smith

This drilling the barrel is already done in MP5SD, Sterling Patchett etc. It lowers the muzzle velocity quite a bit, allowing to shoot normal supersonic ammo. As for permanent, te MP5 has a sleeve on the barrel inside the silencer which can be slid over the holes if needed, giving the bullet nearly normal velocity and also protecting the silencer. I'd like to try this, yet I'm in Europe and thus there really isn't such a thing as a disposable rifle for me.

P.S. IMHO making a SKS subsonic doesn't make much sense. A pistol caliber carbine would be the best choice for this. [ July 23, 2002, 04:00 AM: Message edited by: john_smith ]

July 23rd, 2002, 12:25 PM McGuyver

Yeah, that would definitely work, I suppose the biggest problem is it is so permanent. The sleeve to put over the holes is a good idea though.

I think the hardest thing would be getting the barrel and holes free of the little metal pieces left over from drilling. If even one metal piece stays in there and the bullet can't pass properly... :( .

July 23rd, 2002, 01:38 PM john_smith

It probably won't be THAT much of a problem. <a href="http://www.border-barrels.com/articles/bmart.htm" target="_blank">http://www.border-barrels.com/articles/bmart.htm</a>, look for barrel lapping.

A link for MP5SD:<a href="http://www.hkpro.com/mp5sd.htm" target="_blank">http://www.hkpro.com/mp5sd.htm</a> [ July 23, 2002, 12:55 PM: Message edited by: john_smith ]

July 23rd, 2002, 06:33 PM Sparky

I remember a book I read that had directions for a fiberglass silencer

<a href="http://www.overthrow.com/books/view.asp?showCat=Hitman&showText=text20010310174753.txt"

target="_blank">http://www.overthrow.com/books/view.asp?showCat=Hitman&showText=text20010310174753.txt</a> The book is called Hitman and has been forced out of print. Someone killed some people after reading the book and Paladin was forced to destroy the already printed copies and stop printing the book.

July 23rd, 2002, 06:37 PM Eliteforum

That Hitman book is a farce! It has nowhere near enough information for it to be valuable, and just to point out, it was written by a female bored house wife. One of the admin's said something about this book a while back, don't remember who it was though.

July 23rd, 2002, 07:08 PM Anthony

It was probably NBK.

IIRC, the book was originally written as a fiction work, but paladin said they would only print it if it was in the form of a "handbook". Change a few words around and there you go, fiction becomes how-to.

July 23rd, 2002, 08:02 PM McGuyver

John_Smith - Lapping doesn't sound like something that too many people would want to have done. Seeing how homemade silencers are illegal and that sort of thing.

Besides that, lapping isn't possible after there are holes in the barrel :rolleyes: .

Maybe a really stiff wire brush or something along that line would do it. I would still test it remotely a few times.

July 23rd, 2002, 08:48 PM john_smith

I admit having never lapped a rifled barrel, but it doesn't seem so complicated - after all, the point is just to push something that fits very tight through the barrel a couple of times to get the crap out, not building a $x.000 sniper rifle. The brush would probably work, too, and if the barrel survives the first (remotely fired) shot, it'll be additionally and completely cleaned by the bullet. Really not something to fret about.

July 23rd, 2002, 08:54 PM Anthony

I'd imagine that Fire Lapping would do the job.

July 24th, 2002, 01:16 AM McGuyver

Hey man, nobody's frettin'! I just don't want someone trying this (barrel silencer) and messing up there AK or something. Some people care about their guns- no matter if it's a .22 or a .50 cal sniper.

Yeah I know what you mean by lapping, but I was talking about your article which defines lapping as using lead. Sure, you can

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stick something that fits nice and tight and lap the barrel. Which is what you need to do, to lap it, after holes are drilled. Another good thing about the removable silencer is, of course, it being removable. If your walking around with a silencer fixed on your barrel and a annoying neighbor calls the pigs on you- your screwed. With a removable one you just gotta hide it somewhere or chuck it on the run.

July 24th, 2002, 02:58 AM Charlie Workman

There are a couple of ways to avoid, or at least reduce the burrs in your ported barrels. One is to use a new drill bit or the sharpest you can get. Another is to fill the barrel with lead, drill the holes, then melt out the lead. I can't vouch for that last one, but heard it from a fairly reliable source. If the ports aren't too small you can use a deburring tool to carefully scrape the inside of the hole. If you are going to port your barrel it should be on a gun that can't be traced to you. That way if you have to toss it, it's only a monetary loss. No gun is worth 10 years at Club Fed (US). That's why I tell people if they want to get me something I'll really like for Christmas or my birthday, they should get me a "cold piece". I've got a couple. Otherwise, a detachable/disposable is best. I made one from a liter oil bottle that fitted perfectly on my Ruger MKII bull barrel. I cut off the bottom and filled it with fiberglass pipe wrapping tape, folded into a stack. The bottom was resealed with duct tape. So quiet it was scary.

---"To paraphrase Aristotle, life is a gas"

-Gidget

July 24th, 2002, 06:08 AM PYRO500

And how exactly do you plan on getting that lead out? you would have to use a torch witch would really heat up the barrel and cause the temper (the process that makes metals harder or brittler by slowing/speeding their cooling) to be totally wasted. [ July 24, 2002, 05:18 AM: Message edited by: PYRO500 ]

July 24th, 2002, 11:19 AM Anthony

I can't imagine it'd do much for the blueing either.

I think even if the bullet does get shaved slightly by a burr, it might not have *that* effect on accuracy, I guess at wordt it would make the bullet keyhole.

Charlie Workman, what effect did the bullet passing through the fibreglass stuff have on accuracy?

July 24th, 2002, 03:29 PM zaibatsu

I thought lapping was using a lead plug covered in a cutting fluid? Anyway, I think most professional silencers mainly use a baffle system, and I think that would be the best option, as well as making it detatchable.

July 24th, 2002, 04:31 PM Arkangel

My old man used to have a BSA Sportsman 5 .22 rifle. It was a neat little bolt action jobbie, with a thread on the end of the barrel for it's silencer. I took the silencer apart quite a few times, and it was made very simply. It was an external metal tube 1" in diameter, with an internal thread at the barrel end, and external thread at the front end. (Naturally the barrel end had been reduced quite a bit)

The front end cap unscrewed, and out fell a number of cup washers that fitted inside. These were made from 1.5mm steel, and had a .25" hole in the centres (forgive my mixed imperial/metric units - I'm at that awkward age)

Altogether there were about ten of them, and a cross section looked like this: (hope it works) I___ ___I

HEY, my first attempt at drawing something and I understood it. Let's hope you do. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

July 24th, 2002, 05:04 PM Charlie Workman

You don't have to screw up the temper when removing the lead. It melts at about 700 F (if memory serves). Just don't be too heavy handed with the torch. I object to it myself one other grounds, such as safety. Sharp drill bits or the scraper are safer and easier. Just thought I'd pass it along. I couldn't really test the accuracy effects on the oil bottle silencer. To fit it on the barrel I had to unscrew and remove the front sight. It' cheap and easy enough to test and come to your own conclusions. If you give the can a gentle squeeze after firing, it will blow tiny smoke rings out of the end. Unfortunately, it also blows pulverized fiberglass back into the action, something I didn't discover until I was cleaning it. ACK!

---"To paraphrase Aristotle, life is a gas"

-Gidget

July 24th, 2002, 08:06 PM PYRO500

lead may melt at 700 degrees but try getting it that temp without heating the barrel to atleast twice that.

July 25th, 2002, 01:03 AM Energy84

If you take your time and heat it slowly enough, the lead will get hot enough. You could also rig up an oil bath or something (the fluid must be stable to at least 700 degrees) and heat it to the required temperature then dip the end of the barrel into it.

On second thought, you'd probably be better off to just use lead as your fluid. This would give you the means to fill the end of the barrel in the first place (just heat up a large mass of lead in a steel pot and stick in the end of the barrel as you reduce the heat). To take it out of the barrel again, the pot of lead would just be heated up again and the barrel reinserted.

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July 25th, 2002, 01:41 AM PYRO500

Give it up with the lead barrel idea! if you did submerge the barrel in liquid lead that was just about 700 degrees you'l get all this lead slag stuff in the barrel and not to meniton how hard it is to melt that buch lead let alone support it so it dosen't crush it's supports

July 25th, 2002, 01:50 AM Energy84

It's not very hard to melt lead. I've done it with a small propane torch. And it's not like I melted just a little bit, I had a whole pot full of it.

I forgot to mention in my last post however that I do agree with you, the whole lead thing in the barrel probably wouldn't be a good idea. There are better ways...

July 25th, 2002, 10:07 AM Harry

Somebody needs to take Remedial Electronics! A whole lot of sombodies!

Electrical solder (and sheetmetal solder, for that matter) is an alloy of tin (Sn) and lead (Pb). It is alloyed to lower the (drum roll please) melting temp. Use the solid-core stuff.

But, if you still get noivous about heating your barrel, there's bullets available that have an abrasive coating for cleaning rust pits in the bore, you could use ice to fill the bore before drilling (start with water, then freeze inside bore. Careful with the gas-operated's!), anything that you can melt in and melt out should work. Lapping the bore is still the best method, though. Harry

July 25th, 2002, 12:06 PM A-BOMB

Anybody think of just some sandpaper on a cleaning jag?

July 25th, 2002, 12:51 PM McGuyver

I don't think sandpaper would be such a good idea. Even though it would probably get the metal shavings out, it would mess up the barrel like maybe take some of the rifling off or something like that.

I think a really stiff brush is the best option.

[ July 25, 2002, 11:52 AM: Message edited by: McGuyver ]

July 26th, 2002, 09:04 PM pyromaniac_guy

instead of useing normal solder or even lead to fill a barrel to drill it, look for 'potting metal' i know msc sells it here in the states... it comes in two versions, a 'high' metling point material that flows at about 150c and sells for like 20 or 30 bux a pound, and then there is the 'good stuff' an indium gallium alloy IIRC... it metls at something like 60 centrigrade, so then all you need is a big pot of boiling water...

July 27th, 2002, 05:14 AM Energy84

Bad idea. The temperatures generated from simply drilling the holes will be far in excess of 60 or even 150 degrees C. Especially on hard steel like a gun barrel, I wouldn't doubt if the temps could reach 250 or higher. You'd just need to use a sharp bit, lots of cutting fluid and patience...

August 8th, 2002, 05:11 AM Ron McDonald

First I just want to make sure that nobody ever tries to silence a shot gun. It is really fun once, then you pick the metal out of your skin. The desings these guys post will work fine, just make it as long as you feel comfortible with. Subsonic ammo is the key. The silencer will only take care of the expanding gas, not the micro sonic boom from the bullet. Sub sonic ammo has less stopping power, but the squirrels in my back yard have not complained about the difference yet. I like subsonic ammo better than silencers, because it is legal.

August 15th, 2002, 10:01 PM rjche

To silence a 22, cut the barrel off 2 inches from the bolt face.

then put on the barrel stub a 12 inch piece of 1.5 inch brass sink drain pipe.

Use metal washers to mount the pipe on the barrel stub as close to the breech as possible, with one washer at the end of the barrel. That washer has holes drilled in it so gas can pass back to the most rearward washer.

3 inches in front of the barrel end, another washer is soldered inside, hole in that washer is 3/8 inch.

Every 3 inches do the same but for the end of the pipe use a rubber washer made by crazy gluing innertube rubber to the end. NO hole yet.

when glued, trim excess off the outside of the pipe. This is a flexible orfice to avoid the pop of a projectile passing through a rigid orfice.

To get the hole fire a shot through it, cut a 22 lead so all the round front is gone and its a flat cylinder faced lead slug. put the end against a wood plank and shoot a hole in the rubber.

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use a red hot nail to open that hole up to about 3/8 inches.

This can silence the blast to about the same peak sound level that the bolt of a ruger 10/22 makes as it actions. 22 LR ammo leaves the muzzle at about 950 FPS. so the sound is little.

Sound goes up exponentially as you get above about 800 FPS, and at 1050 it goes up explosively to a very loud noise indeed.

At about 950 its still not very loud, but you are getting more bullet energy, and a little less bullet drop with distance. Good deadly to 50 yards on hard headed targets. At 100 yards it makes a several inch deep flesh wound, but not instantly serious.

All 22 LR ammo burns about the same in a 2 inch bbl. It does not reach mach 1 till about 2.5 to 3 inches. By using 2 inches allmost all commercial 22 ammo will not crack as it exits the silencer.

both std vel and Hi speed shoot about the same.

The short barrel cuts pressure on the powder before it has burned up, and it just stops burning, and piles up in the silencer. Do shake it out now and then. Don't want to convert your soldered silencer into a meltdown.

Remember putting ANYTHING on the end of a rifle barrel makes it shoot more or less way off what it used to. Silencers on snipe rifles are usually never removed for its hard to get them back exactly the same, and accuracy suffers at distance. For emergency use, tying a pillow over the end of the barrel is ok for close up use, like 20 yards. Bolt action rifle with std velocity ammo can be very quiet this way. The bullet shoots through the pillow for a distance of about 3 or 4 inches. Test it before trusting it.

shooting so the barrel end is inside the car, at least a foot from the exit window, with the windown down only enough to let the bullet out without danger of hitting the glass, greatly quietens boom, but not crack. Use std velocity ammo. Same goes for shooting out holes in buildings, etc.

The trouble with soda pop bottle silencers is the flexible sides do not attenuate the sound much. Much better to use a rigid bottle, or

put a sleeve of innertube rubber snug over the bottle to stop the sound exiting its sides. bicycle innertube rubber slipped over the brass silencer tube also quietens it some.

August 22nd, 2002, 09:49 PM rjche

For long barreled rifles like marlin 39a, drill with half inch drill into barrel end for distance of 6 inches. make a plug to fit the drilled hole for a new barrel end. Drill it with quarter inch drill.

The plug must be a tight fit so no play exists. solder it in, or use epoxy. If must be at least half inch long plug.

This will radically silence 22LR std vel. rounds, and the long bbl slows them down a tad so they very seldom crack even on cold days.

Also it takes a skilled eye to spot the end plug if you do it well, crown it and blue it. If range persons question what ammo you are using have some sub sonic low power stuff to show em, or say you are burning up some very old ammo that has lost lots of its power. Better yet, don't take it to a range. The end plug must be about half to 3/4 inch long so looking into the barrel from the front it looks normal.

Use 22LR std vel. Other subsonic stuff is very quiet with this end chamber. This silencer works best on long barrel guns. Not recommended for 16 18 or 20 inch bbls. short bbls exit pressure is too high, and velocity exceeds mach 1 even for std vel. BBl friction past the 16 inch distance exceeds push on the bullet, so bullets slow down in bbls past about 16 inches for 22. Also exit pressure drops a lot in long bbls due to heat transfer and plain old volume expansion.

That's why such a low volume end chamber does so well on long bbls.

BTW in Finland mufflers are required by law on both autos and firearms. They have lots of data on silencers on a website there.

Search silencers on Google, and search each google page of urls for one going to finland. I think they have \fi\ in their url. lots of charts on pressure, velocity, volume, noise, etc. They also show commercial designs.

August 23rd, 2002, 05:11 PM Zyklon_B

Are there no free sources of firearm silencers? I would think so.

August 23rd, 2002, 05:56 PM xoo1246

Specify "free source". Is that like a natural resource? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Anyhow, anyone from Finland?, is it correct that anyone can purchase silencers since they are not part of a weapon? Can foreigner purchase them too without suspision.

August 23rd, 2002, 06:28 PM zaibatsu

Forgot to add, suppressors can also be bought freely in the UK by anyone, whether it be fullbore or air weapons.

August 24th, 2002, 12:12 AM McGuyver

rjche, did you use a drill press to do that, or just wing it? It seems like it be pretty hard to keep the drill bit straight. I guess once you get it started you'd be okay but, if you don't- your fucked.

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Not a bad idea though, very slick. :cool:

August 24th, 2002, 02:50 AM Kdogg

"Are there no free sources of firearm silencers?"

Free? No, ive never seen a place that gives away anything that could be used as a silencer. Unless you mean like a pillow or somthing, But I have always wondered about lawn mower mufflers, they look like they would work. (not the round ones, but the hollow tubular ones.) I think I will expiriment with this.

August 26th, 2002, 02:07 PM Harry

Even simply drilling out the end chamber will give some benefit, without the plug. Sort of a half-baked flash suppressor effect. Not like a .22LR has any muzzle flash, but some benefit may be reaped in terms of report heard by user. Anybody have a .223 bull barrel they'd like to try this on?

August 26th, 2002, 09:36 PM McGuyver

Kdogg, I'm quite sure those kind of mufflers have some kind of metal baffles in them. Like pieces of sheet metal to reflect the sound.

So if you want to use one of those you'll have to drill holes through the baffles for the bullet to pass through. It will probably silence quite well though- good idea.

August 26th, 2002, 11:10 PM Energy84

Uhhh, those straight lawn mower mufflers are straight through. They're like miniature dirtbike silencers. Anybody ever inspected a dirtbike silencer? They're about a foot long, 3 inches in diameter and have a one inch hole through the middle. Intended for *gasp* silencing! :D It'd be nice though if you could find one that has about a half inch hole instead. It'd probably be easier to silence a rifle then. Nice and convienient too because you can get custom silencers made of pretty much anything including steel, aluminum and titanium.

August 27th, 2002, 12:10 AM Kdogg

its not completly hollow, its got like metal disks in them that the exhaust pass around. (Mine does anyways)You would simply have to put a small hole in those for the bullet to pass through.

August 27th, 2002, 12:29 AM McGuyver

Yeah I thought most of them had baffles. Of course there are a lot of different kinds, so I guess some could be hollow. I'm sure the baffles will help though, since they reflect sound and pressure and also slow the escaping gas down. Keep us posted on your progress. Also, how are you planning to attach it to your gun?

August 27th, 2002, 02:07 AM Deja_W

At this time most suppressers used in law enforcement are very similar to a barrel extension, with holes drilled in it then around this baffles are placed, then the outer casing. The reason is that suppressers made in this fashion are more reliable, while still retaining optimum sound reduction. Most long guns can be fitted with an internal suppressor, of this nature; this will lower velocity of the projectile, but in most cases it will not affect accuracy too much. Most rifle barrels are made of a type of aluminum, it has a name, but I can’t think of it, but it isn’t to hard to drill a hole in one, if you have a sharp drill bit, and high speed drill. This is a proven fact. I paid the $200 tax to have a silencer professionally attached to an AR-15 upper receiver converted to fire .22lr ammo.Yes suppressers are legal in America, but you have to pay. I was with the guy when he did it, all he did was remove the barrel, cut it down to 10”, slap it in a vise and used a dermal like tool to drill 12 holes in it. After that he welded six disks on, and filled the spaces with layers of screen mesh, and cotton fiber. The end cap was attached to the outer sleeve, and then could be screwed on, of off, to allow for changing or cleaning of the filler material. The sleeve also screwed onto the rear most disk to prevent any big gas leaks. In all it cost me $700, including the tax,and a back ground check, but it was worth it. After seeing it done I know that I could do it my self.

In the end my weapon is very silent, even with standard ammo, because of the short barrel, the bullet seldom flies over 900fps. It has accuracy problems, 12” groups at thirty yards. And I’ve had two feed ramp jams, though that’s not the suppressers fault.

Shotgun suppressors are big and clumsy, but they do work quite well. There is a company that makes an 18” extension barrel that screws in like a standard choke tube, it has holes all along it’s sides. It has no outer casing to cover these holes, but they claim when using sub sonic loads it reduces the noise level significantly. What significantly means is anyone’s guess. Besides, who wants to add another 18” to an all ready long gun?

:rolleyes:

August 27th, 2002, 04:05 PM Anthony

$700 for 12" groups @ 30yds??? OMFG!

A barrel may be aluminium on the outside, but it's at least going to have a steel liner. Does anyone have any experience at drilling this, which must be pretty hard steel? I'm wondering if normal HSS bits will do, or if you need something more pricey like carbide bits.

I'm guessing you could drill out the end of a barrel, like in rjche's idea with a handheld drill if you didn't have a drill press. The bore would act like a pilot hole to keep the bit straight. It'd probably help to take the bore out a bit at a time, so a drill bit set that goes up in 0.5mm or 1mm incretments would be handy.

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August 27th, 2002, 04:31 PM zaibatsu

Like Anthony says, the barrel's going to be steel underneath, every(commercial) firearm I know of has at least a steel liner. The steel used in gun barrels is pretty tough, but I've drilled into an old fucked up one with HSS drill bits, it was tough though, but that was with a hand-held power drill, a drill press is recommended.

And, like Anthony says, 12" groups at 30yards are shite, how could it possibly be that bad? If it isn't a typo, you got fucked over.

August 30th, 2002, 05:07 PM jelly

@Zyklon_B

<blockquote>quote:<hr />Are there no free sources of firearm silencers? I would think so.<hr /></blockquote><font size="2"

face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica">of course... take a look at the very effective "spud silencer", used by IRA terrorists for one-shot terror tactics :D

<a href="http://jelly146.tripod.com/spud" target="_blank">Spud Silencer</a> [ August 30, 2002, 04:09 PM: Message edited by: jelly ]

August 30th, 2002, 10:04 PM Deja_W

I’m sorry that was a miss print, most barrels are made of stainless steel, not aluminum. Sorry about that.

After the initial shake down, I’ve gotten rid of the jamming problem, and I can now get 1.5 group at 50 yards, not 30. I’m told that this will still improve, it has to clear the grooves out before it’ll shoot any better. But I started with a blow back conversion unit, the wrong twist rate (1 in 9 instead of 1 in 12) and the wrong groove diameter. So what can you expect? On top of all that the ammo I was using I’m now told I shouldn’t use (aquilla superhornet) the bullet is two light (20-grain or something like that), and to fast, to be stabilized in the short barrel. So I switched to aquilla .22lr thumper rounds, the 60-grain bullet is effectively stabilized in the barrel, and it’s much quieter.

The real advantage to this gun is the fact that in less then sixty seconds I can change the bolt and upper receiver and have my old full power rifle back. Or I can just change the bolt, and I can fire sub sonic .223 out of the silenced barrel.

The guy who did the job knew what he was doing, he used hardened steel drill bits that were just sharpened, and after half the holes were done he re sharpened the bit.

Again sorry for the confusion, this will teach me to not try to explain anything after working 19 hours straight.

August 30th, 2002, 11:34 PM Deja_W

The 1.5 is in inches, I just needed to clarify that...

---next time use the edit post function - kingspaz

[ August 31, 2002, 08:24 AM: Message edited by: kingspaz ]

October 4th, 2002, 06:18 AM zeocrash

From what i have researched, you can fit a permenant silencer by drilling holes in the endo of your barrel, sticking a can full of flame retatdent wadding over it. the silencer must be able to be removed as the wadding will burn out eventually

for a non permenant one which doesnt scratch your rifle, take your pipe desigh nad put some plasic spacers on, this will mean that it does not scratch your gun

Does the fact that you're dyslexic mean that you can't use a spell check? And you can't realise that you're typing KeWl ShIt? -Zaibatsu

[ October 04, 2002, 05:04 PM: Message edited by: zaibatsu ]

June 2nd, 2003, 09:51 PM subsonic

Hi, this is my first post in this forum. Yes, this thread is old - but it was very useful, thanks a lot! In fact it was the reason why I visitied this Forum the first time. Please excuse my poor english.

I want to mention that I think the 22LR is underestimated. I just shot through a 2 inch thick Phonebook as if it was butter. If this was a humans head I think it would be pretty lethal.

The Walther "P22 target" is a very good choice for improvised supressors (for a .22). The barrel weight can be removed which gives some nice Space to mount a Supressor on it. Ok, some Parts of that Walther are not built for eternity (some screws) and it is also pretty expensive. But it is good when it comes to hit the target precisely. While my SIG P220 just acts like a shotgun the walther has a very good accuracy.

I have made a supressor for it and tested it. It works very well. First I used some very slow Z-Lang Ammo, it was very silent, but it gave me some reloading Problems due to the little gas amount (224 m/s). The ballistic Crack Table I found following a link you provided here was VERY useful, thanks again. Then I used some Fiocci MAXAC (315m/s). The crack sound was louder, but the suppressor was still very effective. For the future I think I will buy some Ammo that has around 290 meters per second . BTW: the sonic crack already starts at about 290 and rises up to about 400 meters! so using 329m/s will still produce about a 120 dezibel crack although it flies theoreticly at subsonic speed.

you really need this table:

http://guns.connect.fi/rs/bulnoise.html

I used an Alu-Tube (200*30mm) containing a big compression Chamber and 4 little chambers. The Chambers were seperated with some "Screw-underlayers" (30*1.7mm, hole 8mm). These Metal-slices are laying on some Keybunch-rings (31mm) which fit very thightly (have to use some brute force to reduce the spirals diameter) into the Tube. On the other side they are fixed with some steel-repair-epoxy that I pressed into the corners/gaps. So one Seperator is a Sandwich of: Keybunch-Ring/Screw-Underlayer/Epoxy. The sizes of the little Chambers are unregular, between 15 and 20mm. The construction is very stiff and stabile and weights about 180 Grams.