View Full Version : Remington 1100 full-auto ???

J a n u a r y 9 t h , 2 0 0 5 , 1 0 : 2 5 P M

DroppinLead

Y e a h y e a h , I s e e n t h e F u l l y a u t o 1 2 g a u g e t h r e a d .

But a lot peo ple were referring to the amazon or loom p a n i c s b o o k s a l e s l i n k s i n w h i c h I ' d h a v e t o f o r k o v e r a n u n d i s c l o s e d a m ount of cash for a conversion book that for the m ost part , wont be easily acco mplished or even work for that m atter. C a n t s o m e o n e t h a t h a s s a i d e x o t i c w e a p o n s s y s t e m b o o k o n t h e r e m i n g t o n 1 1 0 0 m a k e i t a v a i l a b l e o n l i n e a s h a v e s o m a n y other conversions like the SKS to Full auto , or the Semi to Full-auto AK47 select fire conversion?

I m e a n d a m n i t j i m ! I ' m n o t i g ht ass, but for what my ru ger 10/2 2 exotic weapons system b o o k g o t m e a n d m y o p e n b o l t 1 0 / 2 2 b o o k d i d t o o , I ' l l b e d a m n e d i f I g e t r i p p e d o f f a g a i n .

I've got a few different files I can contribute , b u t I ' m g o n n a h a v e t o m a k e s u r e y o u g u y s a r e n t 1 0 s t e p s a h e a d o f m e o n recieving them . : c o n f u s e d :

M a y 1 8 t h , 2 0 0 8 , 0 1 : 3 9 A M

billybobobrain

I ' v e h a d m ildly good luck with the rugger 10/22 conversion.

I screwed up several parts at first. Plus you have to be able to figgure out that so m e o f t h e " T e m p lates" are not the right scale, m e s u r e t h e m a n d c o n v e r t t h e m .

It works after about 60 m an h ours of cutting and filing. by the way this is not a good project for a Drem el tool.

Also the aternate trip mechanism, which there are no tem plates for is the best set up.

M a y 2 2 n d , 2 0 0 8 , 0 8 : 3 6 P M

MorrisOK

I'm sure that there is nobody on this site who is foolish enough to think that they are anonym o u s o n l i n e , b ut just in case I feel the need to post in this thread regarding the previous two posts.

The way the last post reads, it sounds like billybobobrain was already attem p t e d a n i l l e g a l c o n v e r s i o n , a n d h a s b a s i c a l l y a d m itted it in a public forum. I'm sure this is not the case, and it is merely that there is a misunderstanding of som e sort, b ut care should be used with how things are worded here. This particular site happens to be on a lot of watch lists.

All o f the information I have collected, shared, or viewed is used for ente rtainm ent and education only. I would never attem p t an actual project based on information such as what you are discussing. As I'm sure nobody else here would. One m i g h t s a y that the information they received from one of these books was worthless intellectually, but I wouldn't word it to sou nd like I had tried it a nd failed.

It doesn't take much for FEDs to get search warrants for things like illega l weapons. An adm ission of guilt in a public online forum m ight be enough for the BATFE to drop in for a visit.

I didn't m ean to write such a large, nagging, post. My m ain poin t is just to be careful how you word things online. I would hate t o f i n d o u t t h a t s o m e k i d g o t r a i d e d a n d a r r e s t e d o n s o m e b u l l s h i t c h a r g e b e c a u s e o f a m isinterpreted post.

A u g u s t 6 t h , 2 0 0 8 , 0 9 : 3 1 P M

Sampson1986

It doesn't take much for FEDs to get search warrants for things like illega l weapons. An adm ission of guilt in a public online forum m ight be enough for the BATFE to drop in for a visit.

Excellent advice. As far as I know, BATFE officia ls investigate every alleged NFA violation.

L o g i n

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The Explosives and Weapons Forum > Military Science > Gunsmithing and Firearm Modification > Great .22 suppressor design

View Full Version : Great .22 suppressor design

January 23rd, 2005, 09:47 PM DaedalusX

http://ww w.happynanoq.dk/silencer/

Looks very professional compared to the 'homeshop' or 'homebench' silencer made from pvc pipes and coke cans.

February 22nd, 2005, 07:54 PM Third_Rail

I hadn't seen that webpage before, thanks for sharing.

I wouldn't have thought of using a maglight body, but thinking about it more it seems like the perfect item to start w ith.

February 23rd, 2005, 10:08 AM Gedi

Looking at the suppressor design, looks like it could easily be made. One question, I have a 1/2 unf 28tpi die set from dynasystems, but does anyone know where to get a 1/2 unf 28tpi tap? Thanks

February 23rd, 2005, 04:15 PM skier4life99

I must agree with Third_Rail, a maglight body would be a perfect item to use; I had done a bunch of research at the US Patent and Trademark Office (http://w ww.uspto.gov/) and found several interesting designs, but this one seems to surpass them all in ingenuity.

I do have one question though... How did you make/acquire the "nylon / delrin rod" that you used for the central baffling? Was it a solid piece that you carved and drilled? Thanks in advance for answering...

February 24th, 2005, 02:50 PM Anthony

Anyone else getting a server error when trying that link?

February 24th, 2005, 03:14 PM tomu

Anyone else getting a server error when trying that link?

Yes, same with me, couldn't find server.

As to using a Maglite body as a supressor tube, w ell this seems a bit expensive to me. Why doesn't he use a normal Al-tube? Al-tubes are available in any imaginable size at reasonable prices, certainly much cheaper than a Maglite.

February 24th, 2005, 04:39 PM skier4life99

If you get the page to load, you will see that he makes good use out of the internals of the maglight body, including the threading, the battery cap, and the spring. Plus it's 'prettier' than a standard piece of AL Tubing and has 'built-in' grip for tightening and loosening it...

February 24th, 2005, 04:41 PM DaedalusX

Here is the google cache: http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:B4nooZznmJgJ:www.happynanoq.dk/silencer/+&hl= en&client=firefox-a

btw delrin seems pretty expensive ...

Right now I'm trying to do it on a M4/AR15, I don't know if the aluminium body will be enough for the pressure of a 223 round. Most 223 silencers are 300 series stainless steels. http://ww w.advanced-armament.com/products/rifles/ranger.asp http://ww w.gem-tech.com/m4-96d.html http://ww w.impactguns.com/store/knights_m4qd_silencer.html February 24th, 2005, 09:00 PM Gedi

The delrin rod can be bought from several places. Be sure to measure the inner diameter of the maglight and then order one a little smaller. I used the diameter of a d-cell which is about 32.3~34.2mm which is about 1 5/16 inch.

Just do a google search for delrin. Also, w hen you order, there is minimum cost, so be sure to add extra feet to the length. I ended up getting 3 feet for the same as a foot, just because of the minimum cost.

February 24th, 2005, 09:37 PM cyclonite4

I had a similar problem viewing the link, it timed out.

I remember searching google a few months ago on silencer designs, and reached a w ebsite w hich involved making silencers from maglite torch casings, this may be the same one, or a different site, running on the same idea.

They looked quite impressive, and could be dissasembled for cleaning by unscrewing the battery cover.

Is this the same thing?

And IIRC, the guy was trying to sell them from his website.

February 24th, 2005, 09:39 PM cyclonite4

Maybe the maglite could be reassembled later to disguise the silencer, they are illegal in a lot of countries aren't they?

February 25th, 2005, 11:12 AM Bert

Maybe the maglite could be reassembled later to disguise the silencer, they are illegal in a lot of countries aren't they?

That maglite w ill never be re-assembeled again- He's used a lathe to cut away the end w ith the switch button and permanently affixed the barrel end bushing w here it once was.

Nice design making use of OTC product- and maglites come up to 6-"D" cell.

BTW, link w orked fine for me.

February 25th, 2005, 05:24 PM tomu

The most interesting thing is the delrin part. But yes if I had too small a brain and too much money I would use a very heavy Al-Tube from a Maglite to make a supressor for a .22 l.r. Btw. this strenght of Al-tubing would be allright for the .223 Remington.

Buying a knurling tool would probably be cheaper and he could make more nice looking supressors for all his other rifles as well.

My guess is any Al-tubing is pretty much OTC, well maybe not the Al-tubes used in gasultracentrifuges.

February 25th, 2005, 05:52 PM d o g g i e

I dont see why it couldnt be made to look like the regular maglite. Concealment is handy in any case.

just use a led and button batteries to give the illusion that the maglite was still just an operational flashlight (illustration below)

February 28th, 2005, 08:19 PM malzraa

If the delrin rod won't hold the pressure of a 5.56mm NATO round, w hy not use a piece of aluminum or stainless steel and just lathe it out?

March 1st, 2005, 10:10 AM horadrim

Tw o years ago I made a supressor for my Remington 597 .22LR out of a 3 D-cell Maglite that w as gathering dust. I spent about six months designing it to perform as w ell or better than what w as on the market.

The common link I found in all the designs I looked at was the ratio between the gas volume generated by the pow der charge, the bore volume, and the internal volume of the supressor. This ratio (w ich I call the expansion factor) ranged from 13 - 17. My design has an internal volume of 11.19 in3 across 13 baffles, giving it an EF of 13.

The baffles were made from aircraft aluminum stock and the spacers were turned and bored from stock PVC pipe. The muzzle adapter w as made from the same aluminum as the baffles and was tapped w ith 1/2-28 UNF threads. The rifle muzzle was CNC machined to ensure less than .005" TIR runout.

I still have the Excel spreadsheet and Solidworks files if anyone is interested.

Even though the 597 is a semi-auto, this supressor preforms extremely w ell w et or dry. All that you hear is the hammer and the round impact when using Dynamit Nobel subsonic .22LR ammo. At 100 yards without the supressor, groups average .75". With the supressor, groups average .5".

This HappyNanoq doesn't seem to be utilising the maglites internal volume to its full potential and the more baffled chambers there are, the more effective it w ill be.

March 1st, 2005, 04:18 PM skier4life99

I've been thinking quite a bit on this design and I have to agree w ith Doggie... though it would not be pretty while on the w eapon... if a bushing could be made that would fit INSIDE of the Al-Tubing, it could be placed distal to the rubber of the switch. This way w hen removed from the w eapon, it could have the head of the light screwed back on and a rubber plug placed in the battery cap exit-hole, and voila, a maglite that appears operational but is really a silencer.

BTW, Gedi, thanks for the note about googling for Delrin...since DaedalusX w as from Eur, I thought it was a product from there, as I didn't recognize the name...

August 28th, 2005, 11:37 PM b i g b a d g r i n c h

can find the new site at :rolleyes:

http://ww w.happynanoq.dk/22lrsilencer/

June 25th, 2006, 11:10 PM d r a g g i n b o d y 3 6 5

What's a good place to buy a 1/2x28 tap for such a project?

Also, since everything has to be perfect, when threading the hole, what do you guys reccomend to ensure a perfect perpendicular tapped hole?

June 27th, 2006, 05:33 PM Third_Rail

Use a lathe, if you have one.

June 27th, 2006, 10:11 PM n b k 2 0 0 0

Or chuck the tap in a drill press and use that as a support for turning straight threads.

June 27th, 2006, 11:58 PM Jaxxxom

I'd love to build this suppressor, but I'm hung up! After actually seeing the finished one as well as the various parts, I think I could do it. I'm just hung up on the "bushing" that was used. If someone has a picture or even the plans for this design that shows the bushing, I'd really apperciate it!

August 28th, 2006, 10:45 PM pdphill

Jaxxxom:

I believe I understand the concept of the stainless steel bushing, however, the brass "washer" that attaches to the front of the bushing prior to the nylon tube is a puzzle, although I can imagine several versions. If you understand how that is built to allow for a chamber between the brass w asher and the bushing, I'll trade info.

In reviewing old US Patent Office files on firearm suppressors (Patent #4,530,417) it appears that cooling of the combustion gases assists the reduction in sound. Has anyone tried placing aluminum, brass or copper w ool (similar to steel wool) in the voids to absorb heat and sound?

August 29th, 2006, 02:30 PM FU TI

pdphill I didn't read that patent file but I think that if they mention cooling of the combustion gases didn't think along the lines you have proposed. They probably meant adiabatic cooling caused by rapid expansion of gases. Maybe fine wool you proposed or find in the patent can play a venting role on side ports of the suppressor(permit uniform passage of gas flow from high pressure to atmospheric but after some specific onset point/pressure). Couple different meshes to compensate for pressure drop through suppressor and I believe you w ould get fine result. But that design will be too fragile due to materials used.

September 18th, 2006, 08:59 AM DorikinGTSt

w w w.silencertests.com has a great forum.

+ + + + + + =

If you're going to provide a link, please be bothered to make it complete, eh? ;) NBK

February 17th, 2007, 11:08 PM hot04wrx

So far, the best place on the web to find a 1/2 x 28 tpi tap is McMaster -Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/) industrial supply company. I ordered one and it was at my house in 48 hours after I ordered it. I found another site which is slightly cheaper but will have to dig through my pc to find the link. Hope this helps guys.

January 27th, 2008, 11:37 AM SecondAmendmentINC

After reading pdphill's comment regular window screen or steel wool can help on absorbing the heat that is generated, roll it around a wooden dowel or similar item. You should also smear white lithium grease on the screen or steel wool to further reduce the heat generated by the shot. In turn it reduces the sound.

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The Explosives and Weapons Forum > Military Science > Gunsmithing and Firearm Modification > SKS full auto conversion w/pics View Full Version : SKS full auto conversion w/pics

February 14th, 2005, 09:15 PM lowjack

After seeing a members ASCII art outlining the SKS auto conversion sears, I figured maybe someone might as well see the real deal and not rely on those outstandingly erronious diagrams.. Step by step...Here is the SKS F/A conversion...

Enjoy!

Taken from sks Full-auto .pdf: Neil Sherman, PSC, Ed/AmAnon Press 1929 McGhee Road, New Market, TN 37820 Phone 615-475-4311 or 615-475-4696 EIN: 62-1172451 SSN: 408-25-7730

FFL's: 01-3K-19402, 03-3K-20249, 06-3K-20250 THE DOWN-N-DIRTY FULL-AUTO SKS (And Sumthin' Extra) I don't know whether this 'conversion' meets original Mil' Spec' or not. Haven't checked into it. I do know it works.

The *.PCX Files, Sear1, Sear2, and Sear3, should help you out much more than these notes. If you can't view *.PCX files, let me know, I can supply *.TIF, *.MSP, *.IMG, *.CUT, & *.GX1 formats. The reason I didn't include them is simply to keep the file package smaller, hopefully increasing your incentive to get it. The Graphics Files were all drawn BY ME, in PC Paintbrush, using my own scanner to capture rough 'tracings' made from my own gun. I did NOT copy anyone elses stuff. There is no Copyright Problem since I did all the work - In other words, feel free to spread 'em around - and put the full "blame" on me.

The first thing you gotta do, before you even consider making the conversion, is KNOW HOW TO DISASSEMBLE YOUR TRIGGER GROUP (Not just take it out, but strip it down to it's major components). If

you don't know how to do that, even after studying the thing for twenty minutes, then forget it!

Once you get your trigger group out, you must first remove the Hammer. The hammer has a 'nub' at the bottom which acts as a SECONDARY Disconnect. Cut that 'nub' off.

Now look at the underside of the hammer. The 'raised' portion, in front of the Mainspring Shaft, is the Hammer's Sear. You'll need to cut a channel where the 'nub' used to be, about as wide as the 'nub, to about 3/32 of an inch from the edge of that sear (where the Mainspring Shaft is).

So long as you leave that little bit of a 'wall' on that end of the Hammer's Sear, the Full-Auto Trip will 'catch' and hold the hammer back until the Bolt/Carrier is in Battery. If you cut all the way through that wall, your gun will be unreliable at best but will probably NOT fire full since the Hammer will merely "ride" the bolt all the way closed and never deliver a definite and independent impact to the firing pin. In any case, Once you've cut that channel, the Hammer work is done.

In the Trigger Group, under the Hammer, you will find the PRIMARY Disconnect. When you force the hammer BACK, you will notice the bottom of the Hammer pushes down on two tits of THIS Disconnect (One on either side, though it's a single 'folded' unit). You only have to remove as much metal from these tits as it takes to prevent the Hammer from contacting them. Once you've got that done, the Disconnect work is finished.

Next comes the Primary Sear. This is the "Block" located at the forward end of the trigger group. It is pushed backward by a Spring that fits between this Sear and the Magazine Catch. There's an Inspection Hole on the Left side of the Trigger Group for you to view this Primary Sear Engagement. Take Note of the ANGLE of Engagement. What you need to do is IMPROVE THAT ENGAGEMENT to prevent it from becoming dislodged during recoil. With the Primary Sear Block removed, cut a "shelf" onto it that you will be able to see through the Inspection Hole. Here too, you want this "shelf" to be about 3/32 of an inch thick. You won't need it more than 3/32 of an inch deep either. Once you've

In document Gunsmithing and Firearm Modification.pdf (Page 140-147)