Wave period
The effects of variation in wave period and flow asymmetry in sediment dynamics
... investigation presents new data describing the transition to turbulence, under sinusoidal and asymmetric oscillatory flows, over flat featureless beds of immobile uniform sediments (ranging from fine to coarse sands). ...
256
New Formula of Stability Number of Wave Breaker Armour Units for Non-breaking Wave Effect Irregular Wave
... non-breaking wave (surging), the stability number of breakwater layer units is proportional to the permeability, damage level, number of waves, structure slope angle, and number of Iribarren (surf ...considers ...
6
Variations in Swells along Eastern Arabian Sea during the Summer Monsoon
... this period, the wind blowing over the entire Arabian Sea also will be strong and the waves generated in the Ara- bian Sea will be propagating towards the ...the wave system at the meas- urement location, ...
8
Improving Altimeter Wind Speed Retrievals Using Ocean Wave Parameters
... surface wave parameters, which indicates that the impact of ocean waves is much more important than the impact of other ocean and atmospheric ...three wave parameters, the SWH is the one that has been ...
12
Dissipation of Waves over a Salt Marsh Meadow
... the wave in time ...the wave period is used for the ...wave period. This underestimation seems to increase with increasing wave height and wave ...
36
The role of the reef–dune system in coastal protection in Puerto Morelos (Mexico)
... energetic wave conditions on fringing reefs, the steep reef face has been shown to facilitate the liberation of fluctua- tions with infragravity periods, which can pass into the la- goon with little energy loss ...
14
Developing a Stability Formula for Breakwater-An Overview
... characteristic wave height; and area specific weight of armour unit and water; α = slope angle and = empirical stability ...as wave period, permeability of the structure, randomness of waves, damage ...
5
Towards Improved Engineering Model for Sediment Transport Prediction Under Combined Wave-Current Sheet Flows
... the wave-period-averaged flow velocity due to current can then be decided as in Fig 1(c): below a level of half of the boundary layer thickness, the current velocity is computed using a logarithmic function ...
13
Free-Surface Characteristics of a Liquid Li Wall Jet
... the wave period distribu- tion is as important as the wave height distribution be- cause these distributions are representative of the wave properties as well as the frequency spectra ...the ...
13
Influence of Payloads on the Hydrodynamic Response of Semi Submersible Platform
... (prototype wave period between 8 sec to 20 ...of wave elevation corresponding to wave period of ...(prototype wave period 8 sec) is shown in the Fig ...
6
Wave–current interactions in a wind-jet region
... Abstract. Wave–current interactions (WCIs) are investi- ...Ocean–Atmosphere– Wave–Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system, which uses the Regional Ocean Model System (ROMS) and Simulating WAves ...
20
Multivariate return periods of sea storms for coastal erosion risk assessment
... the sum of the squared errors . The results are plotted in Fig. 5 and indicate that the regression model is adequate in this case. Higher order terms could be included in Eq. (19) to improve the results if necessary. The ...
10
Observation of dominance of swells over wind seas in the coastal waters of the Gulf of Mannar, India
... mean wave period ranged from 14 to 107 m and the ratio of water depth and wave length (varied from ...and wave length between 0.05 and 0.5). The water depth to wave length ratio shows ...
15
Meteorological buoy measurements in the Iceland Sea, 2007–2009
... common wave direction was northwesterly. Figure 12 shows the significant wave height (the mean height of the highest one-third of the waves) and the spectral peak period (the wave ...
11
Experimental Study on Shape Dependent Wave Force of Offshore Support Structures
... extreme wave force of Monopile increased drastically was caused by impact wave force called slamming force at the extreme wave ...the wave run-up and impact wave force was mainly ...
6
Hydrodynamic performance of floating breakwaters in long wave regime : an experimental study
... of wave period ...the wave period can reach approximately 20 s due to wave shoaling ...long wave periods, and the resonant motions of structure may have significant effects on ...
17
2018_Krovetz.pdf
... of wave orbital excursion to plant diameter, increases with increasing wave period, and the larger the Keulegan Carpenter number, the smaller the drag coefficient of the vegetation (Mendez and ...
38
Co-existence of wind seas and swells along the west coast of India during non-monsoon season
... Off Dwarka, the directional spectrum and spread are totally different for the post monsoon season (Fig. 7a) compared to the pre-monsoon season at the other two locations. We can observe two distinct swell peaks from ...
12
Meteor radar observations of mesopause region long-period temperature oscillations
... 5-day wave showed a quasi-continuous increase during the time interval under investigation, no trend was visible for the quasi 10-day ...This wave, however, showed a clear cor- relation with the equatorial ...
6
Complex coastlines responding to climate change: do shoreline shapes reflect present forcing or “remember” the distant past?
... We focussed on two end-member coastal morphologies, flying spits and cuspate capes (Fig. 1). These morphologies emerge as self-organized structures in response to high-angle wave instability that results when ...
14